My only issue with Ringwood is that most commercial breweries using it end up putting out massive butterbombs. I have no doubt that in the hands of a knowledgeable homebrewer it can produce good beer.
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I'm guessing the difficulty mixing it means that adding it during the boil would work best.It tends to drop to the bottom like honey, but it is nowhere near as viscous. It mixes in fairly easily, but it doesn't disperse into the beer without some mixing. It would certainly work in the boil if you know how much you need, but you could easily dose it in a keg or bottling bucket as well.
Does that mean it would take ~16ml to raise 5 gallons ~27srm? Or did I screw up my math? Maybe it's double the amount: ~31ml to get ~27srm in 5gallons?2 EBC is roughly equal to 1 SRM. It takes just over a mL of the stuff to raise 5 gallons by 1 SRM.
Also, where exactly did you order it from?
Not that I doubt you, but I can't believe it is darker than sinamar. That stuff like inkI thought the same thing, but when I saw the insanely high EBC rating and how little you need to color a full hectoliter, I checked the Sinamar specs to compare. The caramel is indeed 4 times darker. What is yet to be determined is the flavor contribution at that level.
I'm interested in a synopsis of the raw stuff. I followed the recipes for homemade invert #2 and brewers caramel. I believe my invert was a complete success, but the caramel has me worried. Everything I can find indicates that the raw ingredient has a "burnt sugar" smell to it and bitter/acrid flavor to it, but this isn't from a homebrewing source. I'd love to hear your thoughts when you have some in-hand.Thanks for the info. that should come in handy for a starting point for my initial experimentation.
The brewers caramel I made definitely has some of the "burnt sugar" aromas and bitter taste, BUT that's exactly what it is (the blackest you can make sugar without lighting it on fire ). I can't imagine any way to make "black ink" sugar using heat and not end up with some highly-cooked/burnt sugar character. Anyway, I tested some of mine in plain water and at 1/8tsp per 12oz you cannot get much (if anything from it) and I get a nice light amber color. At 1/4tsp per 12oz you get some aroma hints of toasted marshmallows, not much flavor but a hint, and the dark amber color I'm looking for. I intend on using it at the middle amount 3/16tsp per 12oz (~3 Tbsp per 5 gallons), and subbing in 1-1.5 oz of debittered black for the remaining color.
Yep, that sounds right to me.So if your juice has a gravity of 1.040, then you want to add 3/40 (0.075) gallons (9.6 ounces) of juice for every gallon of finished cider.
It's 1.050, so around 7.5 ounces per gallon?
Aside from Kolsch, that description really makes me want to brew a Nelson Sauvin pale ale with that yeast...The term that I have seen used, and agree with, is "winey". That winey character is why my preference goes to WY2565.
Yep...white wine with a bit of fruit.
Ron Mexico.Just saw this on Label Peelers website, in case anyone's interested:
Now those are not so well known, and hard to find!
HBC 438 if you want to research it.
Thanks folks, I think I have more than enough suggestions.Moonlight Meadery's website lists a few places in Oregon that carry their meads. Their typical meads are big melomels. Some may be a bit sweet, but they're always well-balanced and I've never had a cloying one. Desire and Kurt's Apple Pie are their flagships, and my personal favorite is Sumptuous, which is a killer mango melomel.
One more question: does anyone know of any good meads to be found in Oregon? I sometimes make mead myself and would like to compare. Nothing very sweet, but melomel is ok.