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Messages - erockrph

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1471
Ingredients / Re: Sulfur Dioxide and Brettanomyces
« on: July 07, 2014, 06:49:05 PM »
Maybe add the apricots first, then add the Brett after secondary fermentation has kicked off? The SO2 will likely be diluted to low enough concentrations once you add the apricots in secondary, but fermentation activity would likely blow some of it off to further reduce the concentration if you're really concerned about it.

1472
All Grain Brewing / Re: What did I brew?
« on: July 07, 2014, 06:43:29 PM »
Call it a Helles Blond and impress your friends. Sounds like a killer Lawnmower beer.

1473
I bet you'll do better calling it an APA than an IPA in a comp. Regardless what the IBU's calculate as, if it tastes a bit caramelly and it's a bit more malt-forward than it fits the APA category better. If you're in a comp, you'll be up against a bunch of "Enjoy By" clones and similar if you go the IPA route.

1474
I wouldn't call it sweetness, but the combination of high alcohol and strong hop oils in a really young DIPA gives me an elixir-like quality that reminds me of cough syrup. As a matter of fact, that's why I don't brew DIPAs any more.

This is distinctly different than the under-attenuated, caramelly sweetness that I get from too many commercial IPAs. I'm specifically referring to an interplay between alcohol and certain hop oil characteristics that I just don't enjoy. I do find that it mellows over time, but I'm not generally looking for an IPA that improves with age.

1475
Beer Recipes / Re: Surefire extract recipe
« on: July 06, 2014, 03:26:36 PM »
I never brew the same APA/IPA twice, but they are all pretty much derived from James Spencer's 15 Minute Pale Ale recipe:

http://beerandwinejournal.com/15-minute-pale-ale/


1476
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: newbie question about priming
« on: July 05, 2014, 09:03:16 PM »
http://www.northernbrewer.com/priming-sugar-calculator/

There are too many variables to give you an absolute rule of thumb. Use a calculator like the one above and you'll be much better off for it.

I dissolve my sugar in the least amount of water needed. Generally its an ounce or two of water for every ounce of sugar.
Make sure you stir in your dissolved priming sugar with a sanitized spoon. Otherwise it may not mix evenly, and some bottles will be overcarbonated and some will be under.

1477
Other Fermentables / Re: Mead recipe
« on: July 04, 2014, 08:35:42 PM »
Thanks Man, ill go with a teaspoon at day 0-3.  I have fermaid k so it should work perfectly.  Ill mix it with a little water to get the DAP dissolved and then pitch.  Should i aerate at the same time?   Also, i have 2 packages of dry wine yeast, should i re hydrate it in water the same way i do fermentis yeast or is there a different protocol?

Cheers,
Jeff

As said before, degas & aerate before your nutrient additions to avoid a Krakatoa reenactment in your fermenter. Speaking of fermenters, what size were you planning on using for a primary? You want a lot of headspace so you don't have issues with degassing. I don't usually do 5 gallon batches, but if I did, I'd probably want to use a 7.9 gallon wine fermenter instead of the usual 6.5 gallon bucket/carboy.

Rehydrate your yeast per the instructions. If you can use Go-Ferm (a rehydration nutrient), it is highly recommended. If you don't, you should still be OK - especially since you're pitching two packs.

1478
Other Fermentables / Re: Mead recipe
« on: July 04, 2014, 06:06:33 PM »
This is from Curt Stock's "Melomels for Dummies" document, that is required reading for fruit meads, but worth the read regardless. Here's his approach to SNA:

Quote
SNA was developed by the commercial wine industry as a way of supplying nutrients as the yeast needs it during the growth phase – kind of a just-in-time delivery. Healthy yeast are essential for a clean fermentation with less chance of off-flavors or the production of higher alcohols (fusels) which can give mead a burning sensation on the back of the throat – the “rocket fuel” sensation.

I prefer to use Fermaid-K (yeast energizer) and diammonium phosphate or DAP (yeast nutrient) for adding the additional nutrient requirements of the yeast during fermentation. One teaspoon of Fermaid-K and two teaspoons DAP should be adequate for a 5 gallon batch. You can mix them together for a stock blend and add them using the following schedule:

Add ¾ teaspoon yeast energizer/nutrient mix immediately after pitching yeast.
Add ¾ teaspoon yeast energizer/nutrient mix 24 hours after fermentation begins.
Add ¾ teaspoon yeast energizer/nutrient mix 48 hours after fermentation begins.
Add ¾ teaspoon yeast energizer/nutrient mix after 30% of the sugar has been depleted.

Personally, I just add the first addition to the must when I mix it with water, then add the remaining ones at days 1, 2, and 3. His amounts work in melomels, but if this is just a straight mead with no fruit, I'd probably bump these additions up a bit (maybe a full teaspoon for each addition). The fruit in melomels does provide some additional nutrient that you won't be getting in a straight honey mead.

Fermaid K works great, but you could use another yeast nutrient if that's what you have. I've used the Wyeast nutrient that I use for beer in place of the Fermaid with no ill effect.

1479
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Punching up my Blonde Ale Recipe
« on: July 04, 2014, 04:30:49 PM »
+1 to everything said so far. My recommendation would be 1-2 oz of Centennial or Amarillo in a 30 minute hop stand at 170-180F. That would add citrus hop flavor without noticible bitterness.

1480
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Keg beer line survey
« on: July 04, 2014, 01:20:51 PM »
Timely thread, as I'm still trying to dial in my system myself. Right now I'm having decent luck with 8 PSI, 38F, and 8 ft of line with a picnic tap.

1481
All Grain Brewing / Re: Dramatic swings in mash efficiency
« on: July 04, 2014, 01:18:07 PM »
Who crushes your grain?  Ideally, it should be you, if you want to maximize efficiency and consistency.

+1 - my efficiencies were all over the place until I started milling my own grain

1482
All Things Food / Re: recommend some Pots and Pans
« on: July 04, 2014, 06:06:12 AM »

I'd say cast iron is pretty nifty but not for all applications. The same goes for non-stick technology.

Yep. I love my cast iron, but stainless is the best option when it comes to getting a quality sear on a price of fish.
I have a stainless, clad-bottom pan (Emeril's, I think) that I use primarily for Steak Au Poivre and for scallops. You can't beat stainless for those times you want a nice sear, then deglaze to make a pan sauce. I like it the best for seafood as well.

I love cast iron, but it's a lot easier to ding a glass cook top with it. The only cast iron I use regularly is my enamel-coated dutch oven.

1483
Other Fermentables / Re: Mead recipe
« on: July 03, 2014, 08:07:48 PM »
No need for Campden for wild yeast control in a mead. There isn't anything really of concern that would be growing on/in honey.

Read up on "Staggered yeast nutrient" additions, it will make a huge improvement in the quality of your mead, especially when it's young.

I'd save the Acid Blend until after it is done fermenting and adjust to taste. A normal mead fermentation tends to drive the pH down, potentially to the point where it may start to affect yeast activity. In a dry mead there may be enough acidity produced by the yeast where you don't need to adjust it.

You want to aerate/degas 2-3 times a day for the first week or so. You'll know when to stop your aeration regime when you don't get much foaming when you aerate.

I'd ferment mid-to-low 60's to keep it clean.

If you use staggered yeast nutrient, you could possibly have enjoyable mead within a month or two. But it could well be a year or longer before it starts to hit its prime. Mead generally takes a lot longer than a beer of comparable gravity to be ready.

1484
Beer Recipes / Re: Weizenporter?
« on: July 03, 2014, 07:51:38 PM »
I may split a batch in the winter to try this out, but I did have a few concerns about this particular style mashup as I thought about it more.

A) Carbonation - hefe's like it high, porters don't. You may be OK splitting this in the middle, but I'm not sure.

B) Water profile - this is the one that may be tough to deal with. Roasty beers typically want high pH, but hefe's are much better at the lower end of the range. Maybe a dry Irish stout would be the best option here because of this.

1485
The Pub / Re: The Onion's summer beer list
« on: July 03, 2014, 03:11:15 PM »
I'd get a taster of the Sriracha Pilsner at a beer fest. Just sayin'...

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