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Messages - erockrph

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Ingredients / Re: Two hops...
« on: April 01, 2014, 06:40:13 AM »
If you're looking for versatility... Centennial is the ticket. I rarely leave it out if an IPA. I also saw a list a couple years ago and cents were the most widely used hop in commercial IPAs.

Which is probably why I rarely use Cents in an IPA. I can buy a dozen commercial IPAs that taste like that at any of my local bottle shops. Good hop though. It compliments EKGs nicely at low levels in British Pale Ales, and is really nice with Motueka to enhance the citrus note.

I find it more of a bargain to buy pounds to half pounds. But be we warned, if you start buying in bulk, prepare to have your freezer full if hops within a year lol

+ 1 - when I told the wife I needed a chest freezer for brewing she thought it was for storing hops, not as a fermentation chamber.

Ingredients / Re: Water adjustment for an Old Peculier clone
« on: March 31, 2014, 10:06:06 PM »
Well, I brewed this using the water profile above. I'm drinking my first sample now. There is a considerable, but not altogether unpleasant mineral water character, and a considerable drying finish. I'll have to try a side by side with OP to see if the water character is the same. There is also a bit of Burton Snatch on the nose at first. Regardless of the comparison with Old Pec, I'm probably going to cut my Cl and SO4 by 30% or so next time.

On a side note, the molasses definitely keeps this from being a true Old Pec clone as it has a very distinct flavor. But it is so damn good in this beer. I'll probably go up to 12oz next time.

Beer Recipes / Re: Mosiac Hops
« on: March 31, 2014, 09:50:08 PM »
I get big citrus notes (grapefruit/lime) along with some mango and tropical fruit. There is also some pine, dankness and faint onion to my palate. The onion fades quickly and isn't as offensive as something like Summit.

Ingredients / Re: Two hops...
« on: March 31, 2014, 09:33:12 PM »
Nelson Sauvin and Apollo. Apollo is the perfect marriage of Columbus and Amarillo to me. Nelson is everything I like about Cascade with a little extra.

After those I'd go with:

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pics of recent brews?
« on: March 31, 2014, 08:43:28 PM »
Old ale with molasses that's not going to survive to old age methinks.

All Grain Brewing / Re: All flameout hops+whrilpool
« on: March 31, 2014, 06:35:50 PM »
Yep, missed it too. But I did cool to to 185F once when brewing an all flameout beer, to see what I came up with in terms of bitterness. It came out pretty APA-like up front until the huge hop flavor kicked in. While not an IPA per se, it was damn good and really drinkable. I don't rule out doing it again.

Yeah, I'm sure you'll get a bit of isomerization if you use enough hops and hold it warm enough for long enough. But unless you really have your system dialed in, I think you're better off adding a (relatively) known amount of IBU's in the boil, then dropping the temp post-flameout before adding your flameout hops. This gives you a lot more control over the final results. I do think you have a bit of leeway in overshooting the IBU's from a post-boil addition, because it's a lot smoother bitterness.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Grainy Pils flavor
« on: March 31, 2014, 10:35:06 AM »
To me, I pick up raw pasta dough as the main flavor descriptor for Pils malt brews. But I get a bit of that white grape note as well.

All Grain Brewing / Re: troubleshoot my too-bitter North German Pils
« on: March 31, 2014, 10:31:18 AM »
I think there is a lot more to hop bitterness than simply IBUs. Bitterness "quality"(rough vs smooth) is almost as important as "quantity" (IBUs), particularly in hoppy beers. I think there is a lot of variance in perception of these factors as well.

My current house IPA measured 98 IBU in a lab. It uses all flameout/whirlpool hops (no boil additions). When I drink it on its own, it tastes like 60 IBUs, with a smooth bitterness. When I drink it with food it tastes like 100 tongue-clinging IBUs and completely blows out my palate. Same beer, two different perceptions even to the same person.

By calculating FWH as a 20 minute addition, I see it as trying to approximate the bittering quality by adjusting the bittering quantity (IBU) calculation. And it also approximates the additional flavor contribution from the FWH.

The thing is, I'm starting to think that this approximation isn't really doing what I want it to do. Personally, I'm starting to look at each of my hop additions individually instead of my total IBUs for a beer. Since I've moved to adding all my late hops at flameout, that's a fairly simple approach for me.

5.  Skip the whirlfloc tablet.  I've tried these a couple times in my 1 gallon batches and it creates to much break material.  Maybe others have had bad luck.

+1 - I get 1-2 less 12oz bottles out of a mini batch when using whirlfloc. The trub gets really fluffy with whirlfloc; it is much more compact without.

Also, use pellets when dry hopping. Leaf hops suck up a lot of brew, and are a PITA if you're using 1 gallon jugs.

All Grain Brewing / Re: All flameout hops+whrilpool
« on: March 31, 2014, 08:25:28 AM »
Sorry I'm late to the party on this one. If you aren't using any boil hops, then you aren't going to want to chill all the way down to 180 or less before adding your flameout hops. You will get next to zero utilization and IBUs at that temp. If you want a controlled amount of IBUs, then add them as a FWH or a boil addition, then do a whirlpool starting around 180-185F. If its an IPA, then I just drop them all in at flameout. The measured IBUs will max out around 100, but it will taste a lot smoother (like a relatively smooth 60 IBU to my palate).

I'd go at least 30-45 minutes on the whirlpool. I actually go 90 minutes on my IPAs, but I might experiment with cutting that down to an hour in the near future.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Dissent with Style
« on: March 31, 2014, 08:15:54 AM »
Getting back to the "house flavor" comments, I get that from quite a few breweries. A lot of times that is a yeast thing, but it could definitely be coming from base malt as well.

Unless it's horrible, I generally enjoy it when a brewery has a house character. It kind of ties their line together and gives you some familiarity with their brews. Its also nice as a homebrewer because you can replicate that character in your own brews. For example, I didn't realize that Harpoon uses WLP005, but the first time I brewed with it that character was clear as day.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Aeration sanitation question
« on: March 31, 2014, 07:48:03 AM »
I keep the little dimebag that the O2 stone came in over the stone end when not in use as a dust cover. Other than that, I simply sanitize in starsan before each use. One tip is to turn the O2 on before submerging in any liquid so nothing backs up into the stone or line.

Anyone try this for garlic/onion hop notes (since they're sulfur compounds)? I've been wondering if a handful of bb's in a hop bag would make Summit usable...

The Pub / False advertising at Disney World
« on: March 23, 2014, 05:33:16 PM »
I took this picture today in the Magic Kingdom. Much to my dismay, there was not a lambic to be seen anywhere.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wet vs. Dry Yeast
« on: March 21, 2014, 01:16:03 PM »
To give a bit more detail, it depends on a lot of factors. Pitching rate, health of yeast, whether you made a starter, gravity of the wort, etc. Sometimes a Wyeast smack pack tends to get a good head start if you smacked it a few hours prior, but not always.

It's more than simply wet vs dry yeast, although that can be one factor.

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