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Messages - erockrph

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1546
Ingredients / Re: Storing HOP Pellets
« on: December 10, 2012, 01:08:23 PM »
It mixes initially but in absence of air currents or over movement it will form layers.
I don't remember that from chemistry class. Gasses mix unformly regardless of weight. Stratification is only temporary and acheived with gentle handling. (But chemistry was a long time ago)

Stratification can occur, but (in the absence of thermal gradients) for the difference of partial pressures in a gas mixture to be significant enough to result in an appreciable gradient you would need a huge container (not gonna do the math, but likely several kilometers in diameter).

Gas mixtures do not act like mixtures of liquid. The heavier molecules do not push the lighter ones out of the way and sink below them. Gas mixtures can be thought of separate mixtures of each component that do not interact. Both the O2 and the CO2 will expand to fill the container equally as if the other was not there.

1547
Ingredients / Re: How to add salts to sparge water when fly sparging?
« on: December 10, 2012, 11:39:11 AM »
Never tried this by gypsum might do better made into a slurry with just a tiny bit of water. Then add that to the larger volume.

I've tried this without a lot of luck. No matter what, there always seems to be some gypsum that settles out when I first add it to my strike water. Eventually, after a few rounds of stirring and letting it settle, it all goes into solution.

I've lately been mashing all the base malts, adjusted to proper pH with acid, capping the finished mash with crystal and roast malts if any, then adding salts in the kettle, like Denny suggested.  I add a little acid to the sparge water so the mash pH doesn't rise during sparging.

That has me thinking - for darker styles, if you waited until the sparge to add your color malts, would that provide enough buffer capacity where you wouldn't need to further acidify your sparge water?

1548
I've brewed several beers with US-05 that have probably gotten as high as the low 70's at the peak of fermentation, and I've never noticed any undesired fermentation character in the finished beer. My basement is about 68F ambient all summer, and I use US-05 for at least half of my brews. Sounds like something else might be going on to me.

1549
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Infection Because of Chamber Mold?
« on: December 09, 2012, 07:52:25 PM »
I'm using three piece.  It won't fit with S type unless I'm using a 3 gallon carboy.. What do you mean about the foil, u skip the airlock all together, throughout the entire fermentation??

In the short term, fermentation is putting out enough CO2 to keep oxygen out of the beer, even without an airlock. This is why open fermentation works. I wouldn't do any long-term aging without a proper airlock, but a couple of weeks in the initial primary vessel shouldn't pose any significant issues. I have more fermenters than airlocks, so I have just loosely placed an undrilled lid on a bucket fermenter when I've run out of airlocks with no ill effects.

1550
The Pub / Re: Drink up Ladies & Gentlemen!
« on: December 09, 2012, 08:42:13 AM »
Anyone find the original article yet? I haven't been able to dig it up on google scholar.

No hits on PubMed for humulone + RSV either.

1551
All Grain Brewing / Re: Drink IPA's Fresh!
« on: December 08, 2012, 09:50:01 AM »
The trouble with "best by" is it doesn't tell you when it was bottled. Fuller's beers have a "best before" date, but it must be a year or more after bottling. The last time I bought their ESB, it was oxidized and nothing like the beer I've had in England.
And really, no brewery is going to print a best buy date that is within a month or 2, or even 4, of production, which is what's needed. It would kill them.

Well that is just not true, Stone has it at 90  days on some beers and 120 days on some other beers. They are in the process of opening the largest restaurant in San Diego. Here is a link, I'm sure you will find more breweries that do it also.  https://sites.google.com/site/freshbeeronly/u-s-breweries

Good for them, but keep in mind that they move the kind of volume where you can get away with this. A much smaller brewery may not be able to pull this off.

1552
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: The latest thing I am curious about
« on: December 07, 2012, 09:32:07 PM »
As far as long-term lagering goes, I think some of the issue is that a lot of homebrewers get caught in the trap that if something is done a certain way by pros, or has been done traditionally for hundreds of years, then they think they need to replicate that. In reality, you're going to get you beer cleaned up a heck of a lot faster in a fridge in the low-to-mid 30's than you would in a 50-degree cave.

1553
Equipment and Software / Re: Variations in temp while lagering
« on: December 07, 2012, 06:15:29 AM »
If you put it in a tub of water that should mitigate the temperature swings quite a bit.

1554
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: White Labs Alcohol Test Kit
« on: December 06, 2012, 08:29:28 PM »
FYI - for $40 you can get a much more detailed analysis through Alpha Analytics:

The Standard Package
This package includes alcohol by volume, real and apparent extract, density, pH, bitterness units, color, and all calculated values*.

(Calculated values include calories, real and apparent degrees of fermentation and original extract.)

Single tests range in price from $8 - $25

I've never tried them out, but I was tempted to get my IIPA tested for IBU's ($20 for that test). The ABV test is $25 through them, too.

1555
Beer Recipes / Re: Re: Hopping levels to balance a big milk stout
« on: December 06, 2012, 07:31:25 AM »

I'm going for that "creme brulee" sort of thing.  That's why I'm going to caramelize the sugar first in hopes of getting some burnt sugar type flavours.  May not work but I figured I'd give it a try.  I know the sugar will dry it out but I figured with a lb of lactose and a lb of C120 I would still get some sweetness. 
Plus, I did want to get the alcohol up a bit.  Maybe I should go with 1/2 a lb of caramelized sucrose for the flavour aspect and see if I get what I'm after without drying it out too much.  But, the goal is toasted marshmallow more than anything else (note the vanilla bean in there too).

Maybe one of the lighter Candi Syrups may get you what you're looking for?

1556
The Pub / Re: Nuff said....
« on: December 05, 2012, 05:51:37 PM »
Breakfast stout?

1557
Never heard of this before, but my wife wants me to make a black ESB.

I think I've had one of these before. I think it was called "porter" or something like that. :)

Do you have a recipe for this yet? I'm curious how to approach this.

1558
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: I'm a rebel, Dotty, a loner...
« on: December 05, 2012, 04:48:33 PM »
One of my all time faves. Tim Burton's masterpiece IMHO. Dark humor at its finest.

1559
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Ideal temp for WLP051
« on: December 05, 2012, 10:59:00 AM »
I haven't gone below the mid-60's with this strain, but I haven't had any problems. One issue I had was that it didn't seem to flocculate out as well as I'm used to with US-05/WLP001. I've had some beers taste pretty muddy/yeasty at first and ended up needing more time to settle out in the bottle.

1560
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 2 questions
« on: December 05, 2012, 10:51:05 AM »
I don't know why anyone would want a beer without hops, but there is a whole list of herbs that could potentially be used for bitterness in Radical Brewing by Randy Mosher. They won't necessarily share hops' preservative qualities, however.

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