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Messages - erockrph

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1621
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Beer in Brazil
« on: May 01, 2015, 05:18:14 PM »
I had the cachasa via the caipirinha cocktail the Brazilians love (or I think that's what's in it). My head still hurts thinking about it. I may or may not have had too many.
Caipirinha is one of my all -time favorite drinks. I will take a good caipirinha over a mojito or margarita any day. Now I have a craving for some churrascaria...

1622
Other Fermentables / Small Batch Wine Kits
« on: May 01, 2015, 12:01:10 PM »
I know I'm not the only one here who has an interest in dabbling in brewing some wine. Northern Brewer has a new lineup of 1-gallon wine kits that looks interesting. Right now they're running a deal where you get an extra kit of chardonnay if you buy their starter kit (which already includes a wine kit of your choice). Not a bad deal for $80 - two 1 gallon wine kits, and just about all the equipment you could need. It looks like all you need to provide is the bottles. I don't drink a lot of wine, so the smaller kits are actually pretty tempting to me:

Link

1623
Are you dissatisfied with the flavor of the beer? If not then FG is irrelevant.

Bingo! In the end, FG is just a number. Your tastebuds can't read a hydrometer.

1624
Beer Recipes / Re: ESB thoughts
« on: April 30, 2015, 10:22:31 AM »
ok. i had originally gone with wlp007 because its very similar to flavor and characteristics of wlp002/1968 yet with higher attenuation.

i will keep fingers cross all works out as planned.
Maybe I'm lucky, but I've never had attenuation issues with 1968. I do try to rouse the yeast every day or so, and bump up the temp at the end, but otherwise no real special attention.

1625
Beer Recipes / Re: Dunkel and Schwarzbier recipes differences
« on: April 30, 2015, 10:13:08 AM »
Thanks.  For the malt bills, I was thinking 50:50 munich (L) and munich (D) for the Dunkel, and 50:50 Pilsner and munich (L) for Schwarzbier (with some carafa for color for each).  Am I on the right track?  Too much munich in the Schwarzbier maybe?
Sounds reasonable to me. I go with about 85% Munich II, 15% Pils for my Dunkel, and 70:30 Pils:Munich for my Schwarz, but we're both in the same ballpark.

1626
Ingredients / Re: Cocculus indicus substitute
« on: April 30, 2015, 09:50:56 AM »
Maybe some wormwood? Just be careful, that stuff is nasty bitter.

a friend of mine puts  alittle bit of wormwood in his pale ale and IPA. it adds a really braceing bitterness that's complimentary but different than hop bitterness... and the green fairies are entertaining too ;)
Right. That was part of the reason I mentioned wormwood as a substitute for the Cocculus. Although it is doubtful that the alleged effects of the "green fairy" are truly due to the wormwood, rather than the adulterants that were in common use a century ago.

1627
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: DAP and beer color
« on: April 30, 2015, 08:14:23 AM »
Off topic, but why wouldn't DAP help the fermentation?  It is sold as a fermentation aid.  Wyeast nutrient contains DAP.  Fermail K contains DAP.
DAP is just a FAN source. It is really useful in something like a mead where there is very little nutrient in the fermentables. In beer, the malt will typically provide all the nitrogen that is needed, and then some. It may be useful in something like a Light Lager, where you have a large amount of adjuncts, but even then you're probably fine just with what's coming from the malt.

I doubt DAP is going to cause issues in small amounts, but I don't think that particular nutrient is all that important in a typical beer fermentation.

1628
Beer Recipes / Re: Dunkel and Schwarzbier recipes differences
« on: April 29, 2015, 11:21:13 AM »
To me Schwarz is to Pils as Black IPA is to IPA. It drinks like a Pils with just the faintest touch of roast.

A Dunkel, is a rich, bready/malty lager (but not heavy at all like a Bock). To me, the primary flavor of a Dunkel comes from dark Munich malt.

Both beers should go down easily by the liter-full, and leave you wanting another.

1629
Ingredients / Re: Cocculus indicus substitute
« on: April 29, 2015, 11:15:59 AM »
Maybe some wormwood? Just be careful, that stuff is nasty bitter.

1630
You read through ALL 2 pages of the "Anybody try kombucha" thread and think about it trying it even though you have NO CLUE what a "SCOBY" is.

https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=20039.0
That's what got me started on it. Of course, this comes from the guy who fermented Tang https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=18990.msg241983

That also reminds me that I need to wake my SCOBY back up and get another batch of Kombucha going

1631
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: DAP and beer color
« on: April 29, 2015, 05:22:22 AM »
DAP is a nitrogen source, so maybe this is leading to increased Maillard reactions? Just a WAG...

1632
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Septic Systems and Brewing
« on: April 28, 2015, 12:28:26 PM »
What sort of shots does that career require?
I'm thinking Everclear

1633
Equipment and Software / Re: Good buy and help
« on: April 28, 2015, 12:25:08 PM »
Maybe something like this is what you're looking for? It works great for dispensing out of a keg at parties an such:

http://www.morebeer.com/products/co2-injector-ball-lock.html

1634
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Bulk or bottle aging?
« on: April 28, 2015, 12:20:04 PM »
I can't remember the exact name of the process, it may fall under osmosis or not, I don't remember...

But isn't there a process where gas #1 will diffuse into a space where pure gas #2 is under pressure? Since both are trying to reach equilibrium with respect to each other?

Maybe I've got something confused, but it sounds really familiar.
I think that's Le Châtlier's Principle. Since a crown cap is not completely impermeable to oxygen and CO2, they two gases will seek to reach partial pressures inside the bottle in equilibrium to the external storage space. This is why the bottles both lose carbonation and become oxidized over time.

Now, if there was some way to store your bottles in a sealed container that has been purged of oxygen and pressurized to about 2 volumes or so of CO2, then you'd be in good shape.

1635
Wood/Casks / Re: Cubes/chips as carriers
« on: April 28, 2015, 12:07:08 PM »
I think the cases where wood becomes a suitable carrier for microbes is when a beer has been aged in said wood for a long enough period where the bugs would have been able to penetrate into the wood. In the situation you're talking about, wood would likely increase your chance of contamination and provide little other benefit.

Personally, I'd have your friend pour the dregs into a freshly-opened and emptied plastic water bottle, top it off with cheap beer as a preservative, then seal it and store it cold until you are able to retrieve it. When you get it, wake up the dregs (and maybe 50 mL or so of the beer that it was stored in) in a low-gravity starter and take it from there.

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