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Messages - erockrph

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Many beers with high rates of Simcoe, Citra, other New World hops are just cat pee to my wife. She is much more sensitive to it. I get the pine and fruit.

+1.  It's funny how differently people perceive hop aromas. Occasionally I'll pick up a slight cattiness from Simcoe, but mostly pine and fruit as well. I get none from Citra. But I'm really sensitive to the onion/garlic thing, which I strongly dislike.
I don't get cat pee at all, just blackcurrant skin. But I'm the same way with the onion/garlic/Asiago thing. Anything more than the faintest hint and the beer starts to become savory to me and I can't bring myself to drink it.

I'm curious to see what others will think of Wai-iti once it starts becoming more widely available in the US. I just get straight up, concentrated blackcurrant from that hop. I wonder if others will get a lot of cat pee from that one.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Batch Size with New Recipes
« on: March 22, 2015, 03:12:11 PM »
I brew 2.5 gallons as my standard batch and 1 gallon for test batches. I generally do extract for the 1 gallon batches since I can do short boils and crank out a batch really quickly.

I actually mash much thinner than most apparently. I aim for around 2 qt/lb most of the time. it seems to minimze dough balls and makes stirring much easier. I might have issues if I was gong for the 20 minute mash but I usually go at least an hour and get in the high 60's low 70's for efficiency which works for me.
I do a full volume mash with no sparge and have no issues until I get thinner than about 3.5 qt/lb. At that point my efficiencies start to drop unless I mash longer. My efficiencies are between 80-82% up until that point.

You can go much thinner on the mash than most brewers typically do with no issues.

I got strong tomato sauce flavor and aroma in a bottle of lindemans cassis lambic.
That sort of makes sense. 4MMP is present in high levels in tomato vines, blackcurrant, tomcat urine and many new world hop varieties. It would make sense that a blackcurrant lambic might have flavor similarities to tomato sauce, especially a sweetened one.

Ingredients / Re: EXP 7270 Hops
« on: March 20, 2015, 03:25:12 PM »
Got 4oz in the freezer but haven't gotten a chance to try them out yet. I take parentage with a grain of salt, but having said that I love me some Apollo.

Given the risk of hantavirus, I'd definitely start with bleach or a quat-based disinfectant.

For 6 bucks you can get a couple lbs of DME, for 2 bucks you can get an ounce of good hops. for 8 bucks you can get a pack of us-05, for 2 bucks you can get a gallon glass jug and another 2 bucks for a couple gallons of distilled water.
Some tubing to siphon into your bottles is also needed. While a racking cane and bottling wand aren't strictly necessary, they will make bottling a hell of a lot easier as well. If you don't have swing-tops (i.e., Grolsch-style bottles), then caps and a capper are needed as well. Bleach could be used for sanitization the first time around, but something like Star San or Iodophor is well worth the investment.

Other than that, what Mort lists above is pretty much all you need to put out a batch or two on the real cheap. You can even jury-rig an airlock by placing a balloon or condom (unlubricated - ribbing optional :) ) over the opening of the jug and prick a very small pinhole in it. If the balloon gets too full, the hole will open enough to let some gas out.

Here's a really simple recipe for a 6-pack batch of American Pale Ale to get you started that doesn't even require a scale:

Shopping list:
1 lb Light Dried Malt Extract (DME) (I'd go with Light over "Extra Light" for this recipe, but either would work)
1 oz Centennial Hops
1 packet US-05 yeast
1 gallon Reverse Osmosis or Distilled water

Add 1 gallon of water to your kettle. As the water is heating, add 1 pound of extract and stir constantly until it is all dissolved. Once the water hits a boil add 1/4 of your hops (if you don't have a scale that can weigh hundredths of an ounce, you can just count the number of pellets and divide it that way). Set a timer for 20 minutes. After 20 minutes, turn off the heat and remove the kettle from the burner. Once all signs of boiling have stopped, add the remaining 3/4 ounce of hops. Stir well until all hops are mixed into the wort (wort = unfermented beer). Let it sit for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. After 10 minutes, chill the kettle in an ice bath until it hits the low 60's (Farenheit). Carefully pour into your sanitized fermenter through a sanitized funnel. Sprinkle 1/4 packet of yeast (you can store the rest in the fridge - just tape it shut and put it in a ziploc baggie) on top and let it ferment in the low/mid 60's for two weeks. Transfer to bottles and add 1/2 tsp of table sugar to each. Cap and let sit warm for another 2-3 weeks for carbonation. Then enjoy the fruits of your labor.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: GM Yeast reduces hangovers
« on: March 18, 2015, 07:33:18 PM »
The actual research was simply a proof of concept of this "genome knife" process could be applied to a polyploid cell (such as S. cerevesiae). This simply means that they are able to remove target genes from all copies of a cell's DNA - which is a novel development for cells that have multiple copies of their genome. They haven't actually engineered a hangover-free yeast. They have been mentioning in interviews that this is a possible application of this new genome knife technique, among other things, but that wasn't the true goal of their research.

This is one of those articles where it seems that the further you get from the actual source publication, the more sensational the claims seem to be.

It only took me a batch or two to figure out what I wanted to get out of homebrewing and I started to focus on that right away. I switched to smaller batches and learned how to experiment with recipe design and hop varieties right away. I jumped into all-grain brewing as soon as i learned about BIAB (brew-in-a-bag). There are a lot of different aspects to this hobby, you don't have to follow a specific tract just because everyone else does.

As long as you're having fun, you're doing it right. And you've come across a great community here on this forum. If you decide to jump into the hobby, this is a great place to learn for both the new brewer and veteran alike.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Books for noobs
« on: March 18, 2015, 06:27:03 PM »
Something I haven't seen mentioned yet - a subscription to Zymurgy. For the price of an AHA membership you get a wealth of information each month, plus access to back issues online. Well worth the investment.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Mashed in!!!
« on: March 17, 2015, 03:40:44 PM »
FWH with 2oz of Sorachi Ace. Thinking about dry hopping, any ideas?

Brewed up an American Wheat last week and it is ready to be dry hopped.

I used 2oz of Sorchai Ace FWH for about 25 IBU

I am wanting to use either my Meridian or Galaxy at about 3-4 oz...

I do have other hops too, just looking for some feedback.

Depends on what you're going for. Galaxy is tropical, Meridian is nectarine/stonefruit. Both are great hops and would work well here.

The Pub / Re: Great draft list
« on: March 17, 2015, 10:18:28 AM »
Have you tried Moonlight Meadery or B Nektar? I have yet to try something subpar from either meadery.
I have tried Moonlight a few times and I believe I have tried one B. Nectar offering. I mostly like and make melomels and find Moonlight to be barely there with the fruit. A friend keeps bringing us commercial meads to show us what's out there to try to convince us to sell ours. What we keep telling him is that we would be hard pressed to turn a profit and still make the same mead. Our fruit is pretty much free so we doing things like making 15 gallons of mead with 50 lbs of berries or 25 gallons with 60 pounds of cranberries, 5 gal with 25 pounds peaches. Also we are bulk aging in the cellar for 1-2 years depending on variety then bottling and often drinking it months after that.
So I guess I'm speaking a bit harshly about commercial meads because I'm comparing them to what I'm used to and what I like. Moonlight's blueberry offering, to say a judge, might be a nice balance of honey and blueberry. To me its sweet and flavorless but I'm used to a dry blueberry melomel that literally stains the bottle and is probably 2-3 years old. I think my point remains about the advantage of making mead at home although I'm a bit harsh on the commercial guys who are trying to make a profit.

Understood. That's why I don't usually buy commercial IPA's. It's not that they're necessarily bad, but I can brew it much closer to my own tastes at home.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Grain Bill
« on: March 17, 2015, 10:08:13 AM »
@erock so your saying use 50% more base 2 row with a 10% of sugar followed by Steve thought already? I may or may not agree with this hence the DIPA is already sugary enough, but am always up for thoughts. Thanks

@Steve-My hops addition are simcoe and centennial at boil @ 60min
Followed by Amarillo, Sorachi Ace, Anthnum, Simcoe, and Centennial @ 10 mins and then the same for 30 mins in a whirlpool @ flame out
Unlike malt, simple sugar ferments fully leaving no residual sweetness. By substituting 10% of your malt bill with simple sugar you end up with slightly more alcohol and less sweetness in the finished beer. It sounds counterintuitive, but that's what happens.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Grain Bill
« on: March 17, 2015, 09:56:55 AM »
For this style you really want to make sure it finishes dry. I would recommend using 10% simple sugars (regular table sugar will be perfectly fine).

I'd follow Steve's advice, but I'd substitute 10% of your total fermentables worth of base malt with sugar.

The Pub / Re: Great draft list
« on: March 17, 2015, 08:17:55 AM »
Seven bucks a pint makes me really appreciate homebrewing. That makes one of my kegs worth $280. Not bad for half a day's work!!! Suck it, AB!

A few weeks ago I calculated the retail price on the sour beer aging in my house at fairly low bottle prices and figured I have like $4000 worth of sour homebrew. That's a good return on brews that were fairly simple and cheap to make.
I bet the savings on making homemade mead is sky high. I make enough to get honey at bulk prices and use mostly home grown or foraged fruit. When you factor in how little actual labor time and the cheapness of the equipment along with the price of commercial mead its a big difference. Also I have not tasted a commercial mead that approaches the quality of homemade. IMO mead doesn't hit its stride for at least a year, even with good practices in terms of nutrient schedule and temp control. Commercial meaderies are selling stuff that's  just months old that they sulfite and back sweeten to hide the alcohol. Plus they really skimp on fruit in melomels.
Have you tried Moonlight Meadery or B Nektar? I have yet to try something subpar from either meadery.

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