Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - erockrph

Pages: 1 ... 108 109 [110] 111 112 ... 273
1636
Hop Growing / Re: What eats Hops?
« on: April 27, 2014, 04:58:08 PM »
The only animal I've seen eating my hops is Japanese Beetles. For the most part, I think most animals leave hops alone because of the bitterness.

1637
Kegging and Bottling / Recommended accessories for the novice kegger?
« on: April 27, 2014, 12:30:28 PM »
I have my kegging setup coming in this week, and I was wondering what gadgets/accessories/etc are "must-have's" for a kegging newbie. All I have coming in are four new 2.5-gallon kegs, one kegging kit (regulator, 5# CO2 tank and one set of lines, disconnects, picnic tap), and one mini CO2-charger (the kind that runs off small CO2 cartridges for dispensing). Even though the kegs are new, I also got a spare set of O-rings just in case.

I have some rewards points saved up from this purchase, and was wondering what are my must-haves for relatively inexpensive supplies. I'm thinking at least 1-2 more picnic tap setups, but after that I'm not sure.

1638
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Kolsch glass source (stang)
« on: April 27, 2014, 11:50:15 AM »
If you can't make that letter, for instance if you have an English keyboard, the proper way to make umlauts is to put an e after the vowel that's supposed to have the umlaut.

On a Windows PC with a US-English keyboard, you can make these characters by holding down the Alt key and pressing the appropriate 4-digit code:

ä = Alt + 0228
ë = Alt + 0235
ï = Alt + 0239
ö = Alt + 0246
ü = Alt + 0252

What language uses ë or ï? Never saw those in German.

Someone must if they're there, right?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%8F
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%8B

1639
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Kolsch glass source (stang)
« on: April 27, 2014, 04:39:09 AM »
If you can't make that letter, for instance if you have an English keyboard, the proper way to make umlauts is to put an e after the vowel that's supposed to have the umlaut.

On a Windows PC with a US-English keyboard, you can make these characters by holding down the Alt key and pressing the appropriate 4-digit code:

ä = Alt + 0228
ë = Alt + 0235
ï = Alt + 0239
ö = Alt + 0246
ü = Alt + 0252

1640
Ingredients / Re: Water adjustment for an Old Peculier clone
« on: April 26, 2014, 08:47:54 PM »
I'm doing a side by side tasting between my brew and Old Peculier right now, so I thought I'd weigh in on the differences I'm noticing.

As far as the water is concerned, I do pick up a significant mineral flavor in the Old Pec, and almost a hint of a metallic note. One thing I'm noticing is a very round malt character in the middle. My brew has less of this roundness and seemingly more dryness in the finish. I get a similar gypsum-esque drying note at the end of the Old Pec, but it seems like there is something else there that keeps it from being quite so dry.

My brew ends up drinking like an ESB with molasses, while the OP seems a bit richer.

And the WLP037 is definitely not from Theakston. The ester profile is completely different. At this point I'm definitely leaning towards 037 being the Sam Smith strain. I'd probably use the Timothy Taylor strain if I tried to replicate Old Pec as the stone fruit in the ester profile is pretty close.

1641
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Pitching Brett into Lager post-lagering?
« on: April 26, 2014, 07:52:31 PM »
I've had the same idea myself, but just haven't gotten around to it. If anything, I'd think that lagering may preserve more food for the Brett to eat. Go for it, and be sure to let us know how it turns out!

1642
The Pub / Re: Have you ever ......
« on: April 25, 2014, 09:23:56 PM »

But doesn't the ADH just do the same thing in your liver anyways?  So for a given amount of beer it would be the same level of acetaldehyde in your body correct?  Of course I suppose this assumes you don't drink MORE because you're not getting drunk...

If there is more ADH (in your GI and in your liver) and the same amount of the enzyme that breaks down the acetaldehyde, you could end up with more acetaldehyde especially if you normally get flushed when drinking.

If you don't normally get flushed, go ahead and try the yeast.  I get a little flushed so I'm not going to try it unless I find out the yeast also provides the other enzyme too.

S. cerevisiae does have aldehyde dehydrogenase enzymes as well. This is why we leave beer on the yeast to "clean up" acetaldehyde after fermentation.

Maybe I'll run a booth selling packets of US-05 at the next beer festival in my area...

1643
Beer Recipes / Re: Messing with hops
« on: April 25, 2014, 09:18:11 PM »
Rakau gives me a pretty sharp bitterness, in the vein of Columbus or Chinook. If that's what you're looking for in your IPA, then I'd use it for about 30-40 IBUs at 60 minutes. Otherwise, go with the Smaragd at 60 minutes and/or the Cascade as FWH (again for 30-40 IBU's).

Frankly, I don't think Smaragd is going to give you a heck of a lot of IPA-like flavor or aroma. I haven't brewed a single-hop brew with it, but I have used it in combination with a few other hops in an IPA before and didn't find that it brought anything to speak of, except maybe some herbal noble-hop flavor. I have heard it described as "Germany's equivalent to Amarillo", but it's nowhere close.

If it were me, I'd bitter as I described above. I'd reserve 2-3 ounces each of the Rakau and Cascade for dry hops. And I'd add the rest of the Cascade and Rakau (and possibly 1-2 oz of the Smaragd for a bit of a background note for some complexity) at flameout and hop stand for an hour or so.

1644
Ingredients / Re: Sasion Water Profile?
« on: April 25, 2014, 08:54:54 PM »
Eric, sulfate has little to do with a style that is not hop forward. We need to lose the mantra that sulfate makes beer bitter...it doesn't. Sulfate makes beer finish dry. In a bittered beer, that allows the hop character and bittering to exhibit. But it didn't make the beer more bitter.

In a malty beer, excessive dryness could become counter-productive to leaving the drinker with that desired perception of malt in the finish. Using sulfate to dial up or down the dryness of the finish is a pretty handy tool in the brewer's tool kit.

Maybe you were misunderstanding where I was coming from - I agree with your points completely.

I don't think of saison as a style that is specifically malt-forward or hop-forward. It is primarily a yeast-driven style to me. My personal preference is to focus on the maltier side. Aside from the yeast character I like a lot of Pils malt flavor akin to a pale lager, and I shoot for a water profile to back that up.

But I have had several saisons that are approaching an APA-like hop character, with bold hops such as Nelson Sauvin or Citra. If I were shooting for that character, I would prefer some extra dryness in the finish. That's where I'd consider bumping up my sulfate a bit.

1645
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Sugar & Final Gravity reduction
« on: April 25, 2014, 08:35:02 PM »
The specific gravity of ethanol is less than water. If you're adding table sugar to a recipe, you can assume that it will ferment out completely. This leaves you with the same concentration of unfermented sugars (from the malt), but more alcohol in solution than if you hadn't added the sugar. Since there's more alcohol, the SG will be lower.

1646
Ingredients / Re: Sasion Water Profile?
« on: April 24, 2014, 09:05:36 PM »
Personally, my saisons aren't generally too hop forward, and I target a water profile suitable for something along the lines of a Helles. If you're brewing a more hop-forward saison, then I'd probably target something along the lines of 100-150ppm of Sulfate.

I think your profile looks pretty good, but I'd use lactic acid to bring your mash pH down closer to 5.2-5.3. That really helps bring out that bit of tartness that makes a saison "pop".

1647
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Hop sediment
« on: April 24, 2014, 02:25:52 PM »
By nylon... you mean women's hose? and if so, how do you attach it to the siphon?

Yep, works great - rubber band it 'round the racking cane and soak in starsan.

+1 - although I prefer to use zip-ties instead of rubber bands since I'm afraid the rubber might affect the flavor.

Nylons are a great tool to have in the brewery. I also use them as a juryrigged hopback - stuff one with an ounce or so of hop cones, then zip tie it to the end of your tubing as you rack from the kettle to the fermenter. It helps filter out trub. It may impart some hop character as well, although I'm not sold on this since it's chilled wort that I'm passing through the hops..

1648
Beer Recipes / Re: CAP questions
« on: April 24, 2014, 11:00:35 AM »
According to Greg Doss from Wyeast, WY2007 stays reasonably clean in the low 60's. I know I've used it at 58F in a hoppy pale lager without an issue. You may be better off giving that a go for a CAP than the 2112.

1649
Ingredients / Re: Watering down beer
« on: April 24, 2014, 07:21:17 AM »
+1. Hop character would diminish pretty noticeably too in a hop forward style like German Pils, aside from oxidation risks.

^^^ This. Your IBU's are probably already a little under your target given the higher wort gravity. I wouldn't want to dilute that any further. In cases where beer is intentionally diluted post-fermentation, the original beer is brewed with the correct IBU's/hopping rate to account for this. Otherwise, you're just watering-down your beer and it will likely taste that way.

You're more likely to screw up a decent beer than improve it when you start trying to "fix" things post-fermentation, IMO.

1650
Other Fermentables / Re: Orange Drank
« on: April 23, 2014, 05:48:22 PM »
You're going to change the world with that stuff

Exactly! Why mix a drink in 30 seconds when you can take a month to brew up a batch of the stuff?

But it is a neat proof-of-concept for me. And it helps feed my compulsion to ferment random stuff just because I can.

Pages: 1 ... 108 109 [110] 111 112 ... 273