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Messages - erockrph

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1636
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: orange zest and bittering
« on: August 17, 2015, 03:56:02 PM »
Ascorbic acid is an antioxidant, not a preservative. And there's not much in the skin of an orange - it is primarily in the juice.

You could always bitter to a low amount of IBU's with hops, then use orange peel to get the majority of your actual bitterness. That would be the best of both worlds if you're looking to go that route.

1637
A) While the taste-test portion of this xBmt wasn't statistically significant, the measured increase in attenuation definitely provides some for thought. Specifically, I'm wondering if you pitch WY3711 at the tail end of fermentation if you can get to the typical low 1.000's without significant flavor contribution from the saison yeast.

B) I really need to try out my Armadillo hops. YVH accidentally shipped some to me instead of Amarillo, and they let me keep them when they replaced the Amarillo. (That is typical of their excellent customer service, BTW)

C) I wonder how long you need to boil the Armadillo to ensure you don't spread leprosy with your beer?

1638
The Pub / Re: Dog knows how to party
« on: August 16, 2015, 02:43:37 PM »
I could go for Pringles, Yuengling and a pool right now, too

1639
Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: Things you wish breweries would figure out
« on: August 16, 2015, 10:44:09 AM »
IME, the good ones do it very well and the bad ones do a lot wrong.


Don't try to pass off an ale as a lager unless it's seriously clean

WY2112 may be a lager strain, but it doesn't make a clean lager when fermented at ale temps

Manage fermentation temps better

Don't rush beers and end up with D-bombs

Clean your taps (i.e., "Why does my IPA taste like coriander?")

Don't use Ringwood

Dump beers that didn't turn out right

1640
Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: Paulaner Original Munich (Helles)
« on: August 16, 2015, 10:38:58 AM »
I didn't think of Kölsch malt. I haven't used it, but from the descriptions I've heard that may be the closest. I had thought of something like Biscuit or Victory to try to replicate that breadiness, but that always bugged me because I'm pretty sure that's not how Paulaner does it.

Anyone have any idea what yeast strain they use for their lagers?

1641
Right, I stand correct.  Sorry to perpetuate a common brewing myth.  I'm still curious about the original question: why does fermenting without continuous aeration proceed to high krausen faster?  Is a longer lag phase building cell walls and reservers still a valid hypothesis, which would lead to healthier (possibly more?) yeast?  Many people have conducted experiments that show a correlation between amount of oxygen added and yeast growth.
Just to clarify my earlier comment, I did not use a stir plate prior to the "Shaken, not stirred" method. I simply shook to aerate initially, then shook the starter every chance I could. Now I specifically target getting the initial shaking to the point where the starter is almost entirely foam, including dividing it into two separate vessels if needed to provide adequate headspace for the initial shake. I have no personal experience with a stirplate, so I cannot compare those two methods.

1642
Beer Recipes / Re: sour IPA thoughts?
« on: August 16, 2015, 10:31:11 AM »
I have plans to try something like this, but at very low IBU's. My plan is to do a sour wort, then bring it up to 170F to pastuerize. Once it gets there I'll do a hop stand with a whole bunch of hops, much like I'd do with a normal hoppy beer. At that temp there will be minimal isomerization but you will get a lot of hop flavor and aroma. This way there is less of a clash between bitter and sour flavors.

I'm thinking you'd want to stick with fruity/citrus hops rather than pine/earth/herbal. Citra, Galaxy, Meridian, Motueka, Nelson, etc. would be the route I'd go.

1643
Equipment and Software / Re: Thermometer probe length
« on: August 16, 2015, 10:22:33 AM »
It also helps to warm the whole thing up by letting it sit for a bit with with the hot water as a precursor to mashing in.
I'd rather just adjust my strike temp to account for the extra few degrees needed to heat up a room temp mash tun. One less step to forget when I'm still half asleep and trying to mash-in.

1644
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: It's Official
« on: August 16, 2015, 08:42:52 AM »
Plus, finding bottles should not EVER be the most complicated part of your homebrewing hobby.  If it is, you are doing it wrong. 
Yeah, that was my thought, too.
+2 - If I want beer, I buy beer. If I want bottles I buy bottles...

1645
Ingredients / Re: When to Start Looking for Bulk Whole Hops 2015 Season?
« on: August 15, 2015, 07:02:48 PM »
Yeah, I have a comp coming up soon and I'd love to get 8 ounces or so of fresh, whole-cone hops from this year's harvest. I'll share if I find anything.

1646
Ingredients / Re: Adding essential oils
« on: August 15, 2015, 07:00:20 PM »
I'd be more inclined to try citrus oil than pine oil for this type of application. Sure, a lot of the pine aroma compounds are similar to what are found in hops. What I'd be worried about are some of the other tar/pitch type compounds.

I like your idea of adding it to late primary. This gives the yeast a chance to potentially metabolize some of the compounds to add some complexity.

Let us know how it turns out if you try it. I have some pure compounds that I've been meaning to try this with myself (linalool, geraniol, alpha- and beta-pinene, citronellol, etc).

1647
In my experience WLP002/WY1968 works the same as any other yeast for bottle conditioning. Your usual process should yield your usual results.

1648

So if I were to cold crash a starter at high Krausen would that be a reasonable option for those of us that get into scheduling problems as and have to make a starter several days in advance?


I've done this on my last 3 batches because I wanted to try the no-stir method but was afraid of timing things properly. (Instead of shaking I inject with 15 seconds of O2 then let it sit.)

I take them out of the fridge and decant then let them warm up for about 2 hours before pitching and I've had 3 very short lag times each time. (3 of the shortest I've ever had.)

Going to get rid of my stir plate for sure.

Just curious, why not do both?  Initial aeration is always a good idea, but from what people who have DO meters have said, it dissipates very quickly.


My starters seem to be reaching high krausen in 5 to 7 hours so it seems like they don't need anything more than the initial 15 seconds of pure O2. I admit I could be wrong and extra shaking could be worthwhile.
My guess is that the yeast are grabbing what they need rather quickly and taking off, making the extra aeration unnecessary. My starters have been noticeably more active and healthy since starting to use the "shaken, not stirred" method where you simply shake to a complete froth at the start, then just let your starter go. As a matter of fact, I think I need to start making my starters later than I used to, since they are reaching high krausen quite a bit earlier than my previous starters.

1649
Beer Recipes / Re: Thoughts on a baltic porter
« on: August 14, 2015, 08:02:47 PM »
Just a thought. Baltic Porter is neither roasty or hoppy. You can use fair amount of dark Munich in there.

Agreed. When I think Baltic Porter, the first words to come to mind are "rich" and "balanced". I get a fair amount of roast out of something like Sinebrychoff (love that beer!), but the malty richness comes first and the roast is just there to balance it out.

To the OP, if you're looking for a dry strain, 34/70 is a good choice for this style.

1650

Bigfoot is open fermented.

Speaking of Bigfoot, I need to get better at being able to squirrel away that beer.
It's tough. I find putting it in a case at the bottom and back of the pile works best.
When it comes out every year, I buy two 6-packs 4-packs. One immediately goes into the cellar, where it is doomed never to be opened because everything down there is just too precious for me to open once it gets a little age on it. My beer hoard seems to be a bit out of control nowadays.

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