I haven't brewed it myself, but I would trust one of Dawson's recipes:
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My recommendation would be to control the body/attenuation with your mash not with your yeast. Yeast doesn't always do what you expect it to do.
+1 - I love 3711. It's definitely quite a bit different from Dupont, but I love the flavor profile I get from it.
Stalled even with the heat? What was you OG? I've been thinking about coming back to 3724, but I just can't put up with the stall.
I haven't tried it for this reason plus, I just really like 3711
You're absolutely right that the type (and maybe even brand) of molasses impacts the flavor.I use 8 oz. of "Original unsulphured" (not blackstrap) in a 3-gallon batch of old ale and it gives a nice molasses flavor without being overpowering. As you said, type of molasses and desired effect play a big role.
I prefer to use Barbados molasses, as it has a milder flavor. Lately though I've been using organic black strap.
Black strap has the strongest flavor.
Years ago, I made a oatmeal-molasses stout and used a LOT of molasses. It was delicious.
It all depends on what you are looking for in the final beer.
Mark, do you know of any biology behind why weisse/wit strains tend to pump out a lot of sulfur compared to other S. cerevisiae strains? To me, they're worse than many lager strains with the H2S production.Isn't it also true that sulfur is generated by the yeast in the growth phase? I have never worried about sulfur aromas from a yeast starter. Ever.
While there are S. cerevisiae strains that throw sulfur, S. cerevisiae yeast strains usually only throw sulfur when stressed. A particular Burton ale strain throws sulfur, but that's because it is not really an ale strain. It's a lager strain masquerading as an ale strain.
Man, I'm spoiled that it's under a mile to both the teeball and soccer fields. Things will probably change this fall for flag football. But, the weather has been all over the place this year. It's either been cold and windy, or hot and stale with the sun beating down on you. I would kill for a run of days with low-70's and a light breeze.Won't lie, I was never so happy as the day my kids decided to stop playing soccer I'd have supported them all the way if it was their thing, but it wasn't. I love how, with kids soccer mostly played in the spring and fall, that damn near every game is required to be played on chilly, rainy mornings @ 8am. I was sick every spring and fall with headcolds. I sympathize !My daughter loves it and is a great player but its all the travel being on a travel team, she's dedicated. Today's game is 3 hours driving for 90 minutes of playing, I need a beer:)
After my first batch, in every stage of brewing (wort, ferment, bottle), I have cleaned all equipment with PBW and rinsed well. Forgive me if this sounds like an idiotic question but.... I gotta ask!One cleaning is sufficient. Store everything covered and/or upside down so no dust can get in them. You do need to sanitize anything that touches the wort/beer after the boil. I'd do that right before use. I prefer to keep Star-San in a spray bottle for that purpose.
Do I clean the equipment again just before use, somewhat of a secondary cleaning or was the initial cleaning that I did after brew day/bottle day sufficient?
Agreed. It shouldn't take more than a few grains.Wyeast 2124 is W-34/70. W-34/70 is a robust and forgiving tetraploid (four sets of chromosomes) lager yeast strain, which is why it is the most popular yeast strain in the world. I would take Eric's advice and pitch 1/4th of a packet of rehydrated dry W-34/70 with your priming sugar. The alcohol heat should mellow in time.I happen to have a packet of W-34/70 on hand. Once rehydrated, can I put it in my priming sugar solution? I bottle carbonate via "pump prime". https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=23215.0
Personally I'd be concerned about the osmotic pressure of the priming solution. You could just add dry yeast directly to the bottles before capping.
I will definitely post some updates once this is ready. If it works out, then I'll definitely stash away some bottles for the next beer swap.I have a big triple brewday planned for Thursday. I'm planning on making a Saison, a Pyment and a Lambic-style sour - all using Gerwurztraminer must from a wine kit.
I look forward to hearing how the saison/must beer comes out. I'm still planning to use Muscat juice in a saison probably summer/fall ish. Just didn't order it in time to brew when I wanted to this time.
The OP stated that his starter was throwing H2S. H2S production with most lager yeast strains is normal; however, it's a sign of stress with most ale yeast strains.
Mark, try using 50ml of 5% w/v (1.020) wort next time you attempt to start the dregs from a bottle of bottle-conditioned beer. Five percent wort is less likely to stress the remaining viable cells, and it is easier to diffuse O2 into 5% w/v wort than it is 10% w/v (1.040) wort. Old cells need to be babied.
I'll take some up here in New England as well. I think we've gotten about 30 minutes of drizzle in all of May. I haven't bothered to direct-sow any veggies in my garden since it's like a dustbowl.Wet, wet, wet.^This^ I wish we could ship this rain to Cali. We don't need anymore for a while.