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Messages - erockrph

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Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bottling: Too Soon?
« on: October 24, 2014, 08:26:35 PM »
13 days isn't too soon if the FG is stable and there's no diacetyl/acetaldehyde in the beer. A beer that size could be done in 4 or 5 days, honestly. I generally package my normal gravity ales at the 2-week mark. Check the gravity one more time and taste the sample. If everything is good, then bottle away.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast poll for an unplanned brewday!
« on: October 24, 2014, 08:23:28 PM »
Not to derail, but why are you using WLP013 for a Fullers clone instead of WLP002? Don't get me wrong, I have used WLP013 in a Fullers-type ESB and it makes a fantastic beer, but 002 will get you much closer for a clone.

To the original question, I like the Windsor/Notty combo suggestion as well.

All Grain Brewing / Re: 5 Gal Mash Tun
« on: October 24, 2014, 08:05:30 PM »
It's perfect for 3-gallon brewing, if that's something that interest you at all.

At Griffin Claw the grain get hammer milled, the husks are removed, and the fine flour goes into the mash press. That is how they don't get astringency. Homebrew hammer mill needed too.
Good to know, that's a game changer. Although if you didn't press too much I wonder if astringency would be an issue.
If your pH is good and your mesh is fine enough to keep husks from passing through to the boil, then squeeze away. No hammer mill necessary, no astringency.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Doing a BIAB with too much grain
« on: October 24, 2014, 01:08:56 PM »
If I can't fit all the grain for a recipe, I just brew a smaller batch.


Ordinarily, I'd say "IPA" for my ale, but I never brew the same recipe twice. So I'll have to go with my ESB, which is based on Fullers. 93% MO, 7% Dark UK Crystal, hopped with Challenger, EKG and Caliente.

For lagers, it's definitely my "Erocktoberfest", which is a Maerzen with some added Aromatic to kick up the maltiness.

So I have to ask - "never the same recipe twice". What's behind that? Haven't you just found that magic brew that lit you up and you found yourself crying and wanting more when it was gone? Just curious.
The "never the same recipe twice" is specifically regarding IPA's. There are just too many hops out there to play with. Plus, I spent a few years chasing the level of hop flavor that I wanted in my IPA's. I have my process close to dialed in, but the hop selection changes and I'm still tweaking the malt bill. I've also locked onto some other styles that I have been dialing in recently, so the past year or so hasn't seen too much IPA activity in my brewery.

Ordinarily, I'd say "IPA" for my ale, but I never brew the same recipe twice. So I'll have to go with my ESB, which is based on Fullers. 93% MO, 7% Dark UK Crystal, hopped with Challenger, EKG and Caliente.

For lagers, it's definitely my "Erocktoberfest", which is a Maerzen with some added Aromatic to kick up the maltiness.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Crushed Grain Shelf Life
« on: October 22, 2014, 09:08:40 PM »
A roller mill is an investment that many brewers are hesitant to make; however, I have yet to meet an all-grain brewer who is not glad he/she did so after the sting of the purchase has faded.  There are several nice mills that can be had for under $150.00 shipped.  If you are patient, you may be able to pick up a used pre-adjusted Schmidling Malt Mill for under $75.00.  Those mills are good for several tons of grain.
Agreed! You certainly don't need a grain mill to get started in all-grain, but I'd highly recommend it as your first upgrade. My efficiencies were all over the place until I started milling my own grain. Plus, you can start to buy grain in bulk. Outside of a couple of liquid yeast packs, I haven't had to buy any brewing ingredients at all this year - I've just been using up my stockpiles.

As an example, my LHBS carries Briess 2 row and Briess 2 row brewer's pale malt. I have had the same question, what's the difference? And what to use when a recipe simply states "pale malt"

Order some Rahr 2-row. Problem solved :)

But seriously, both of those Briess malts sound like the same thing, unless one is actually their "Pale Ale" malt, or one is their organic malt.

"Pale malt" and "2-row" are often used to describe the same thing, in those cases it would indeed be interchangeable because it is the same thing.

"Pale Malt" and "Pale Ale Malt" aren't necessarily interchangeable. You could probably sub one for another in a recipe and be in the same ballpark, but the base malt character will be different (possibly a lot different). Base malt is different than specialty malts in that even 1 degree Lovibond is enough to give a significant difference in flavor. Pils, Pale, Pale Ale and Vienna are all within a couple of degrees L of each other, but they all result in different beers if used as the base malt.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Honey Smacks Beer??!?
« on: October 22, 2014, 07:46:33 AM »
I just don't think that you're going to get much carryover in flavor if you mash a cereal like this. The ingredients are pretty basic:

Sugar, wheat, dextrose, honey, contains 2% or less of vegetable oil (hydrogenated or partially hydrogenated soybean), salt, caramel color, soy lecithin, BHT for freshness

Outside of the puffed wheat, I don't see much here that would seem like it would continue to have much of a flavor impact on the finished beer after going through the boil and fermentation. The BHT might help shelf stability a bit, I guess...

The Brewing Network used to air a show called "Can you Brew it".  Not sure if there is a database of the recipes they got from brewers, I remember seeing some posted on other forums at one point.  You could always listen to the shows I suppose.

Did the recipes actually come from breweries or were they someone's guess at what the brewery did?

They would typically interview the brewer and get the recipe and process details directly from them. They would then scale the recipe to homebrew size, brew it, and do taste test with the commercial example to determine "cloned" or "not cloned".

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast starter time question
« on: October 21, 2014, 09:11:58 PM »
I would suggest using a yeast calculator because a repeatable process is the first step to learning what works.  Then you can adjust your SWAG from there.  It's better than dropping the bomb on your beer and hoping for the best.

Bingo. It's very much like using an IBU calculator. You're not likely to hit the measured number. You're probably not even particularly close. But you need some sort of benchmark for measuring your initial conditions, and some way to quantify what changes you make for subsequent batches. The calculator doesn't need to give you a number that equates to anything in the real world. It just needs to model conditions close enough where you can compare and adjust between batches.

And at that point the pencil and paper become the more important tools. In the end, we brew for ourselves and our own palates. A number like 55IBU or 250 billion cells means nothing until you can quantify the results with your own palate.

Generally "Pale malt" and "2-row" are both used to describe pale North American 2-row malt, and are often used interchangeably. Technically you could have a Pale 6-row malt, but you will almost always hear that specified as 6-row. As Sean said "Pale Ale" malts are generally kilned a bit darker, in between a Pils/Pale malt and Vienna.

I use 32% dark wheat, 30.5% Munich, 30% pale wheat, 6% cara Munich, and 1.5% carafa ii dehusked.

I've never used the dark wheat malt. Is it like the wheat equivalent of Munich? What kind of flavor do you get out of it.

I haven't brewed a dunkelweizen in a while. I might have to schedule one for the early spring. It's actually a fun style to play around with spices. I brewed a Vanilla Dunkelweizen a few years ago that was really nice. I'm thinking some combination of cacao, cinnamon and/or vanilla the next time I brew one.

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