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Messages - erockrph

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1726
All Grain Brewing / Re: Anyone brewing today 10/10/15?
« on: October 10, 2015, 06:13:41 PM »
Not today, but in the next week I'm brewing a rye pils and an IPA.  The IPA will be a test of X17 experimental organic hops that I got ahold of.  They're a Magnum/Cascade cross and have a lot of tangerine/lemon/lime to them.
I'd love to get my hands on those. Do you know who is developing it (YCR, Haas, HBC, etc.)? Does it go by any other name? I'll have to keep a close eye on my usual sources and snap some up if it becomes available.

Much smaller scale...it's a grower named Pat Levy.  At this point, X17 is all it's called.
It's great to hear that the little guys are able to do some innovation as well. Hopefully the resources are there to scale up production if it's a winner.

1727
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 50% off hop sale
« on: October 10, 2015, 06:10:52 PM »
I'm trying to be good and wait for this year's crop. But that pound of Northdown looks might tempting...

1728
Beer Recipes / Re: Farmhouse Ale with Quince
« on: October 10, 2015, 06:09:06 PM »
+ 1 - I increased the caramel malts to try to get a bit more color in a saison and it wasn't good. I wouldn't go over 250g, and even that is pushing it for my tastes.
Yeah, Saison Voisin has a significant caramel malt sweetness and I'm just not a fan. It doesn't work too well in the style, IMO.

Now a brown ale or Oud Bruin with quince might work well with the caramel character...

1729
Beer Recipes / Re: brown ale recipe
« on: October 10, 2015, 05:29:18 PM »
It makes perfect sense if this is a dunkel-inspired brown ale.

Normally I'm a fan of a little crystal and a little chocolate malt in brown ales but you definitely do not need crystal malt with all that munich unless you're trying to drive a touch of darker fruit flavors with a small amount (1-2% max) of higher lovibond crystal. I think you are fine getting the right amount of sweetness with the munich malt but if there's any concern I'd opt for a lower attenuating yeast strain (like London Ale III) to leave behind some sweetness. Dumping in crystal could easily get you from sweet to cloying.
I had a similar thought. Maybe mash low to keep it from being too underattenuated, then go with something like 1968 or WLP051 to leave a little sweetness behind.

1730
All Grain Brewing / Re: Anyone brewing today 10/10/15?
« on: October 10, 2015, 05:13:56 PM »
Not today, but in the next week I'm brewing a rye pils and an IPA.  The IPA will be a test of X17 experimental organic hops that I got ahold of.  They're a Magnum/Cascade cross and have a lot of tangerine/lemon/lime to them.
I'd love to get my hands on those. Do you know who is developing it (YCR, Haas, HBC, etc.)? Does it go by any other name? I'll have to keep a close eye on my usual sources and snap some up if it becomes available.

1731
The beauty of learning how to plate and slant is that one is no longer limited to the cultures that one can acquire through the home brewing trade.  For example, if you are lucky enough to capture a wild culture that you like, you can plate the culture, select individual colonies, and test to see which ones you like.  A wild culture on a plate is going to be potpourri of colors and textures because it is more than one strain and/or type of microflora.   You can also use selective media.
This is the part of yeast wrangling that I'd be interested in dipping my toes into. There are a few mixed-culture beers that I'd love to be able to isolate the Brett strain(s) from (Orval & Girardin in particular).

Mark, any recommendations on where to get pre-poured plates?

1732
The Pub / Re: My new job
« on: October 10, 2015, 01:59:03 PM »
Way cool! Congrats, that sounds like an awesome job.

1733
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: The Importance Of Being Same
« on: October 10, 2015, 03:46:08 AM »
My biggest takeaway from all of Marshall's exBeeriments is that it's well within the ability of a good homebrewer to produce consistent/repeatable beer, since so many triangle tests fall outside the level of statistical significance. The exbeerimenters are able to produce beers within a tolerance such that even when making a small change the beers are virtually indistinguishable.

To echo the sentiments of others, "same" has different tolerances depending on what you're testing and the resolution of your measuring device. For a beer tasting, the ideal measuring device is my own palate. Any other measurement has to be viewed with the understanding that I may not get the same results. At that point you need to decide how much weight to give those results based on how much you trust the source and whether it falls in line with your own experience. In those cases, I am unable to assess the "sameness" of the samples directly, so the more/better data the higher my confidence is in the results.

1734
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Swap-toberfest '15
« on: October 09, 2015, 06:42:18 PM »
UPS guy just dropped off a package today - my new pair of Irish Setters! Best hunting/hiking boot ever!

Even better, there was a second box marked all over with some Italian word that I think is pronounced Fra-jee-lay :) Inside the box were bottles of homebrew and some local selections from 3 Floyds and Taxman Brewing. Everything arrived in perfect condition. Looking forward to them. Thanks, Jon!

1735
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: "other drink"
« on: October 09, 2015, 06:16:03 PM »
No no no that's not it. My girlfriend loves IPA. The bitterer the betterer. It's the citra. And she hasn't said it's bad, just that it doesn't taste like beer.
You got it dead on - it is the Citra. More specifically, it's the oils from fruity hop varieties, but Citra is one of the fruitiest and oiliest there is. When the hops are spot-on in my IPA it tastes like grapefruit-pineapple juice. It just needs an umbrella in it and you could serve it in a tiki glass.

I suspect that the fresh fruit juice character comes more from the dry hops than the whirlpool, but I haven't done a test to confirm that.

1736
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pils Whirlpool at 80C and 100C
« on: October 09, 2015, 02:15:51 AM »
Of course, all of this assumes that you are using a crapload of hops (I use 4oz per gallon of final kettle volume). If you're not getting enough hop character, and you're not really pushing the amount of hops, then that's the first thing to address.
Similar process here but let me make sure I'm getting this right… your hops in my kettle at 4oz per gallon post boil would be 24oz. or 1.5# of hops in a 6 gallon whirlpool. Am I reading that right?
I brew half-sized batches. At the end of the boil I'm at about 3.25 gallons and use 13 ounces of hops. Yes, you are reading that right. And yes, this is insane. I never claimed sanity  :P

Keep in mind that this makes an extreme beer that tastes closer to grapefruit juice than a typical beer. Good thing I like grapefruit juice.  ;D

1738
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pils Whirlpool at 80C and 100C
« on: October 09, 2015, 01:23:19 AM »
When I want to control my IBU's to a specific value, I use a 60-minute addition, and a whirlpool addition at 170F to get flavor and aroma. It works well for those styles and allows you to dial in the bittering and flavor separately. Your flavor hops aren't constrained by your IBU's and your bittering isn't really affected by your late hops.

For my house IPA I do something different. I skip my 60-minute addition and add all my hot-side hops at flameout, then hold my hop stand for 90 minutes. I think this method really maxes out the amount of hop character you can extract. This beer ends up being pretty extreme. Also, since it's an IPA, I'm not really concerned with the number of IBU's in the finished beer (it will max out around 100 IBU depending on yeast and fermentation), so I don't have to worry about limiting isomerization. I do find that the apparent bitterness tends to be much lower than the measured IBU's for whirlpool additions, or at least less harsh.

Of course, all of this assumes that you are using a crapload of hops (I use 4oz per gallon of final kettle volume). If you're not getting enough hop character, and you're not really pushing the amount of hops, then that's the first thing to address.

1739
I do want to point out again that boil length is only going to be correlated to DMS volatilization for a given kettle setup. Marshall's kettle is able to reach 9% boil off in 30 min; if you're boiling off significantly less than that you may need to boil longer.

is it the rate or total volume that is important here?  and is that an hourly rate, or total?  I'm sorry I don't see that info in the write up?  Man that is quick boil off - i boil off about 2 gal an hour, 15gal starting BV.  But then again i guess it would be an even higher rate if starting at 8.

I average 32% boiloff per hour.  'Course, I'm only brewing 1.7 gallons at a time, too.

Boiloff rates in % are not very helpful, honestly.  Need gallons/hour.
In this case, I'd wager that boiloff rate is a more accurate marker than absolute boiloff (i.e., gallons/hour). 8 gallons of wort is going to have twice as much SMM as 4 gallons of wort. If you're losing 1 gallon/hour in each, I'm thinking that the 4-gallon batch will blow off all its SMM about twice as fast as the 8-gallon batch.

Of course, the chemistry is likely much more complex. Things like this are rarely perfectly linear.


1740
Beer Recipes / Re: Focal Banger Clone
« on: October 08, 2015, 06:27:59 PM »
I agree wholeheartedly that if you want to get the most out of your hops, just skip all the boil additions except an initial 60-minute addition for your IBU's. The rest will give you the most bang for your buck in the whirlpool.

I'd go 70 IBU's from your hop shot at 60 minutes, 4-6 ounces of each hop in the whirlpool and 2-3 oz of each in dry hops.

+1.  For an IPA (regardless of what the brewery's schedule might be and how it might work on your system) this procedure is really hard to beat in terms of controlling the bitterness and pumping a ton of flavor and aroma into the beer. Lots of ways to do it though.

Agreed.  earlier comment was focused on bittering.  i wouldn't hesistate to try it this way.
Your other option is just to throw all your hops in at flameout and do a hot whirlpool. You will max out at ~100 IBU no matter what, but whirlpool IBU's tend to be less harsh than a 60-minute addition (to my palate, at least - I'd love to see Marshall tackle this one some time). You still get that massive flavor blast from the big whirlpool charge. This is a nice approach for those massive IPA's where IBU's don't matter since you're going to max it out anyways.

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