Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - erockrph

Pages: 1 ... 114 115 [116] 117 118 ... 365
1726
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bottle Bombs
« on: February 15, 2015, 04:38:28 PM »
Each gravity point adds about 0.5 volumes when fermented. Typical longnecks are pretty safe until 3 volumes, and possibly can handle 3.5 if they're in good shape. Typically you're at about 1 volume after fermentation, so 3 points would lead to normal carbonation levels, 4 would be OK for Belgians and hefes, and 5+ would have me calling the bomb squad.

1727
All Things Food / Re: The Flavor Bible
« on: February 15, 2015, 11:05:41 AM »
I got it recently myself for the same reasons. Most of the time I'm throwing stuff together in my kitchen "Iron Chef" style, and this looks like it's going to be a fantastic reference.

1728
All Grain Brewing / Re: Ipa water addition help
« on: February 15, 2015, 11:02:08 AM »
Ph,  from what I have found searching on the clone of heady the alchemist mashes at 5.4 so I'm 2 points high but would adding stabilizer help with that?
You're much better off using something like lactic acid or phosphoric acid. There's no way of telling what the stabilizer is adding to your mash, what pH it's going to hit, and what the flavor impact is going to be.

1729
All Grain Brewing / Re: Question about high final gravity
« on: February 15, 2015, 10:55:45 AM »
The first week in the fermenter, I kept the temp at 70 and have dropped it down to 65 for the last two weeks. The krausen dropped after 2 days.

This is pretty much the exact opposite of what I would do.   Rather than start at 70 then drop to 65 after a week, you will probably have better results if you started at 65 then ramped up to 70 after a few days to finish fermentation. 

Starting cool then raising the temp after a few days helps control esters and encourages the yeast to clean up diacetyl precursors at the end of fermentation.
Starting relatively warm then dropping the temp 5 degrees is a good way to get your yeast to drop out early and leave a lot of diacetyl behind, especially with an Irish strain.
+1 - I ruined my first batch of homebrew doing this. Complete butterbomb.

1730
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Culturing from Commercial Beer
« on: February 14, 2015, 07:13:23 PM »
Would using the dregs from two beers be better than one during the first step if you used a mason jar instead of the original bottle?

Also, should I cool this wort like a traditional starter?

Yes and yes.  This is a fun project, especially when it works.  My buddy brought a bottle of Westvleteren back with him from Belgium and I cultured the yeast.  I made a clone of their quad which is delicious and now a Dubbel.  So +1000 (for me) to culturing something that's hard to find.

EDIT:  However if you want to culture and clone the SNPA, have at it and enjoy!
I was under the impression that Westy got their yeast from Westmalle, which is WY3787. I'm wondering if there's any difference between the two, outside of the Westy XII yeast being more stressed since it's coming from a Quad.

1731
unfortunately I don't keg, wish I could. I was going on the impression that more surface area gave better hop utilization and better results during dry hopping, of course, I may have misunderstood. LOL
It could potentially make some difference, but it's more of a function of both contact area and diffusion over time. So more surface area may lead to more contact area. But that increase is negligible compared to being able to rouse the hops and/or move the wort around. That will increase the diffusion part of the equation, which plays a much bigger effect.

If you have access to CO2, simply bubble it through the bottom of the fermenter intermittently to rouse the hops and get the wort moving a bit. That's where I think you'd see the most improvement in hop oil extraction.
I aerate with pure O2 using  a .2 micron stone and SS wand. I wonder if I could use the same process but with CO2 instead of O2? I use small CO2 canisters, I imagine the gas is clean enough not to inject bad critters into the beer, with the alcohol content I imagine it's safe enough. Do you think this would be a good technique?
I've meant to try something similar myself, but I usually just add more hops instead  ;D

1732
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What book to read
« on: February 14, 2015, 11:11:05 AM »

I have actually read both Palmer and Papazian's books twice. I feel like I have the basics down somewhat. I feel like I'm just throwing ingredients together without knowing what their purpose is. Even though I have enjoyed what I've made so far.

Designing great beers might be a good read for you. As well as the new book by Mosher.
+1 - also "Brewing Classic Styles". I still use those recipes as a starting point when I'm designing something new.

1733
Beer Recipes / Re: Hops to pair with trois
« on: February 14, 2015, 08:38:46 AM »

Citra, mosaic and galaxy. I just made an IPA with that combination and am going to use it in my next brett beer. The aroma and flavor from that blend is just wonderful to me. Very fruity and I feel like each hop adds something different and they pair well. I get pineapple and blueberries mostly.

Where do you think the pineapple and blueberry comes from?  Any particular hop or just the blend?

Blueberry definitely comes from the Mosaic . Pineapple from the other hops and/ or from the Brett.
I always get monotone mango from Citra when I use it alone, or if it totally overpowers the other hops. But once I get it in a blend with certain other hops it starts to morph into pineapple. Citra + Nelson + Meridian combine to give pineapple-grapefruit, at least to my palate.

1734
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Drauflassen on high gravity beers
« on: February 14, 2015, 07:56:58 AM »
My first thought is that if you have the ability to do so, then brew the initial batch at a lower gravity and step up the gravity on the second half.

I've heard of this technique before, and in practice it really sounds no different than pitching a starter at high krausen. I'm surprised that more breweries that brew double or triple batches to fill their fermenters don't use this technique.

1735
Ingredients / Re: Data on Blackprinz
« on: February 14, 2015, 05:55:51 AM »
I don't have any numbers in front of me, but I'm pretty sure treating it like Carafa Special III should get you in the right ballpark.

1736
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Culturing from Commercial Beer
« on: February 14, 2015, 05:50:52 AM »
Place your thumb or the palm of your other hand over the fat end stopper and shake until the liquid is nearly all foam (you should hold the stopper in place; otherwise, Murphy will more than likely show up, and you will have wort on your ceiling)
what's the point of the stopper if I just use to shake? Couldn't I use the foil?
You could use something else (even your thumb if you're wearing a sanitized glove), but the stopper is certainly the best way to keep our boy Murphy from laying down the law all over your ceiling/walls/hardwoods/carpet/etc.

Edit - fix busted quote box

1737
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Culturing from Commercial Beer
« on: February 13, 2015, 08:39:38 PM »

I've stepped up from bottles several times. It's a fun experiment. It's not going to save you any money and unless you really know what you are doing and have an expensive microscope I doubt you will find it makes beer as good as a $4 pack of US-05.

+1
+2 - I mainly do this to step up Orval or other sour dregs, or to grow up a pitch from a batch of homebrew that used a platinum strain that isn't currently available.

1738
unfortunately I don't keg, wish I could. I was going on the impression that more surface area gave better hop utilization and better results during dry hopping, of course, I may have misunderstood. LOL
It could potentially make some difference, but it's more of a function of both contact area and diffusion over time. So more surface area may lead to more contact area. But that increase is negligible compared to being able to rouse the hops and/or move the wort around. That will increase the diffusion part of the equation, which plays a much bigger effect.

If you have access to CO2, simply bubble it through the bottom of the fermenter intermittently to rouse the hops and get the wort moving a bit. That's where I think you'd see the most improvement in hop oil extraction.

1739
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Culturing from Commercial Beer
« on: February 13, 2015, 06:31:37 PM »
First and foremost, since the culture is not in the greatest health and is a fairly low cell count, proper sanitation is an absolute necessity - even more so than usual.

For the initial step, I like to do it in the bottle instead of pouring the dregs off. Transfers are the times where you run the biggest risk of contamination, so I like to make sure the culture is woken up a bit before transferring out. Sanitize the bottle and bottle opener before opening. Then sanitize the neck/lip of the bottle before pouring the beer. I like to leave about 1/2 inch of beer in the bottle, plus the dregs. this way you get any yeast that is still in suspension and not just the flocced out dregs.

I then use a sanitized funnel to add about 1/2-1 inch of 1.030ish wort. Once diluted with the remaining beer, this gives you a nice low OG of about 1.020. This is less stressful to the yeast than the typical 1.040ish starter wort we typically use. Then I cover with foil (for non-sours) or add a small stopper and airlock (for sours). I usually give the first step about 7-10 days to give the yeast plenty of time to wake up and do their thing.

From there, the general rule for stepping up a starter is a tenfold increase each step. So step two is maybe 200 mL or so of 1.035 wort, and then that can go into a normal 2-liter starter. Use your nose to tell you whether there are any problems, and taste your larger starters to ensure that you didn't pick up any contamination along the way.

For sanitation, I have had good luck simply using Star-San, but if you really wanted to take stronger precautions, then using something like 151 or Everclear, then flaming it off is the way to go.

1740
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What book to read
« on: February 13, 2015, 05:25:56 PM »
If you like hoppy beers I'd go with Hops first. Otherwise, I'd pick Yeast. Water and Malt can't hurt for an extract brewer, but they have much more impact once you start brewing all-grain.

Pages: 1 ... 114 115 [116] 117 118 ... 365