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Messages - erockrph

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1726
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Switching to O2
« on: June 06, 2015, 07:24:23 AM »
You want the bubbles to come out almost as slow as possible.  If it's bubbling out the top of the wort, then it's not going into solution.

I run mine for around 60 seconds or so.  I don't really time it. Bigger beers, I run longer than smaller beers.

My understanding is that it is extremely hard to over-oxygenate.
+1

I also keep 5 gal star san around and start and finish the process in the starsan to insure i done leave or clog the stone with wort. They are really hard to clean if ya get wort in them.
+2 - including the Star San part. I really only break out the O2 for big beers, and I kind of use a rule of thumb of 1 second per OG point - so a 1.090 beer gets 90 seconds, a 1.120 barleywine gets 120 seconds, etc. For beers even up to the 1.070's I don't bother with the O2 tank. A slow pour through my filter screens, followed by a bit of sloshing does just fine.

1727
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: keys to a crisp lager
« on: June 05, 2015, 07:46:40 AM »
Cool thanks. I did an American Wheat recently at 5.25 but tried acidulated malt for the first time to get there. It is crisp but also a little tart. I think I will stick to the lactic acid even though they should have the same affect...

In my mind, I was going for an 'Americanized' helles type of thing which is probably why I chose 5.4. At least that sounds right in my head...

Do you think temperature is partly to blame as well?

I don't think temperature is to blame, but the colder you can get the faster everything will drop out. It may continue to improve if you keep it stored cold.

Also, you could certainly try dosing a sample with a small amount of lactic acid and see if the flavor goes where you want. If it solves the problem you could dose in the keg.

1728
All Grain Brewing / Re: Big brew Barleywine
« on: June 05, 2015, 06:12:56 AM »
Transferred my Big Brewday Barleywine to secondary today with a Medium+ oak spiral which had been soaking in Knob Creek.

The SG measured 1.017

Should I be worried about it being too 'thin'?
Thanks



Not at all.  It's difficult, if not impossible, to brew a thin barleywine. A big malty beer that starts with an OG as high as barleywine leaves a ton of malty character in your beer regardless of your FG.  Think of the  Belgian Quads -  they're essentially Belgian barleywines and they all finish low and have tons of malty richness.  FWIW, I mash barleywines @ 148F for 90 minutes, they finish fairly low, and have a ton of body and richness.
+1 - Alcohol tends to add a nice mouthfeel in bigger beers. Plus, since alcohol is lighter than water a higher alcohol beer has more dextrins remaining compared to a lower gravity beer that finishes at the same gravity (in other words, alcohol lowers the gravity of a beer).

And I can't say I've ever had a beer that seemed thin that finished at 1.017, barleywine or not.

1729
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Keeping Yeast Slurry Long Term
« on: June 04, 2015, 10:14:26 AM »
I save yeast so I have a variety around as much if not more than to save money. I don't live near a lhbs.

I'm in the same boat. 250 miles round-trip to my "local" homebrew shop. I tend to mail-order new cultures once every year or two, in either the spring or fall when shipping temperatures are reasonable.
My LHBS is open hours that generally conflict with my work/family schedule, so I'm in the same boat. I keep a stash of dry yeast on hand for short-notice brews, and try to brew a couple of successive brews when I use liquid yeast. For strains I like but can't get a hold of easily, I keep a few mason jars of the yeast cake from a previous batch and store them in the fridge. I've had good luck with most strains just growing up a starter from these.

1730
The Pub / Re: Google Photos Test
« on: June 03, 2015, 04:19:02 PM »
Just had to chime in on this to say that I'm finding the search terms function on Google Photos to be pretty incredible. I spent about a half hour just searching random words, and it was darned near flawless.

The faces search is pretty amazing, too, IMO. I searched my 74-year-old aunt's face, and it even found a set of old baby pictures of her that I had scanned in. Impressive.
The image search thing is great. I use it to bust people's chops all the time. "No seriously, you do look just like Ma Fratelli from The Goonies. Google says so!"

1731
The Pub / Re: Good NHC Plane Book?
« on: June 03, 2015, 11:11:21 AM »
You probably have read it already, but Tasting Beer by Randy Mosher should be a required read for any home brewer or craft beer fan.

1732
Beer Recipes / Re: Beamish clone
« on: June 03, 2015, 11:01:11 AM »
I haven't brewed it myself, but I would trust one of Dawson's recipes:

http://thebeerengineblog.com/2014/02/18/brew-day-beamishish/

1733
Ingredients / Re: Adding Wine to White IPA
« on: June 03, 2015, 10:52:53 AM »
I have not found hefe strains to work well with fruit the times I have tried them, but if you really want to try it out then set up a tasting. I'm having a hard time thinking of a wine varietal that would pair well with the flavors that come from a hefe. A clove-forward hefe might work with something like Syrah or Red Zin. A banana-forward hefe might be tough - maybe a less-acidic white that has some melon flavors.

I decided to try this myself by using a wine kit. I have a 3711 Saison with Nelson Sauvin & Motueka hops in the whirlpool, a lambic-esque sout and a pyment (grape mead) all using must from a Gewurztraminer wine kit.

Everything is still early in fermentation, so I don't have any specific feedback for you at this point. But the advantage of using finished wine is that you can taste before you make your finished blend.

1734
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Low Attenuation/High Floc?
« on: June 03, 2015, 10:40:13 AM »
WLP037 makes Fullers look like a wit strain. It drops like concrete when it's done - I could turn my fermenter on its side and the cake didn't budge at all. It looks sort of like egg drop soup when it's fermenting, but with much bigger clumps. It has a distinct ester profile, but it's much less fruity than Fullers (pretty sure this is Samuel Smith's strain). It attenuates well if you pitch enough yeast and oxygenate well. And it can tolerate pretty low temps - I fermented it in the upper 50's/low 60's without a problem. I haven't used it in hoppy beers, but Sam Smiths brews some nice hoppy beers.

The only problem is that I think this is still only available seasonally in the winter from WL.

My recommendation would be to control the body/attenuation with your mash not with your yeast.  Yeast doesn't always do what you expect it to do.

+1 - Plus, if you want a style for hoppy American lagers you're better off with something that can finish dry if needed.

1735
All Grain Brewing / Re: Saison attempt
« on: June 02, 2015, 12:41:35 PM »

Stalled even with the heat?  What was you OG?  I've been thinking about coming back to 3724, but I just can't put up with the stall.

I haven't tried it for this reason plus, I just really like 3711
+1 - I love 3711. It's definitely quite a bit different from Dupont, but I love the flavor profile I get from it.

1736
Beer Recipes / Re: Sprucey rye saison
« on: June 01, 2015, 12:35:09 PM »
You're absolutely right that the type (and maybe even brand) of molasses impacts the flavor.

I prefer to use Barbados molasses, as it has a milder flavor. Lately though I've been using organic black strap.

Black strap has the strongest flavor.

Years ago, I made a oatmeal-molasses stout and used a LOT of molasses.  It was delicious.

It all depends on what you are looking for in the final beer.
I use 8 oz. of "Original unsulphured" (not blackstrap) in a 3-gallon batch of old ale and it gives a nice molasses flavor without being overpowering. As you said, type of molasses and desired effect play a big role.

1737
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Sulphurous / Egg Smell In Starter
« on: June 01, 2015, 12:23:40 PM »
Isn't it also true that sulfur is generated by the yeast in the growth phase? I have never worried about sulfur aromas from a yeast starter. Ever.

While there are S. cerevisiae strains that throw sulfur, S. cerevisiae yeast strains usually only throw sulfur when stressed.  A particular Burton ale strain throws sulfur, but that's because it is not really an ale strain.   It's a lager strain masquerading as an ale strain.
Mark, do you know of any biology behind why weisse/wit strains tend to pump out a lot of sulfur compared to other S. cerevisiae strains? To me, they're worse than many lager strains with the H2S production.

1738
The Pub / Re: What's the Weather Like Where You Are?
« on: May 31, 2015, 07:40:34 PM »
Won't lie, I was never so happy as the day my kids decided to stop playing soccer  ;D  I'd have supported them all the way if it was their thing, but it wasn't. I love how, with kids soccer mostly played in the spring and fall, that damn near every game is required to be played on chilly, rainy mornings @ 8am. I was sick every spring and fall with headcolds. I sympathize !
My daughter loves it and is a great player but its all the travel being on a travel team, she's dedicated. Today's game is 3 hours driving for 90 minutes of playing, I need a beer:)
Man, I'm spoiled that it's under a mile to both the teeball and soccer fields. Things will probably change this fall for flag football. But, the weather has been all over the place this year. It's either been cold and windy, or hot and stale with the sun beating down on you. I would kill for a run of days with low-70's and a light breeze.

I'm loving the rain today up here. It should help the berries fill out a bit. I might actually plant my beans and peanuts tomorrow not that the soil has some moisture.

1739
After my first batch, in every stage of brewing (wort, ferment, bottle), I have cleaned all equipment with PBW and rinsed well. Forgive me if this sounds like an idiotic question but.... I gotta ask!

Do I clean the equipment again just before use, somewhat of a secondary cleaning or was the initial cleaning that I did after brew day/bottle day sufficient?
One cleaning is sufficient. Store everything covered and/or upside down so no dust can get in them. You do need to sanitize anything that touches the wort/beer after the boil. I'd do that right before use. I prefer to keep Star-San in a spray bottle for that purpose.

Great forum handle, by the way. The Stand is one of my favorite King novels, and the miniseries from about 15 years ago was really good, too.

1740
All Grain Brewing / Re: Does anyone filter after a BIAB mash?
« on: May 31, 2015, 02:28:45 PM »
The only time I had any astringency issues was one time when I tore a small hole in my bag and several whole husks made it through to the boil. Shortly after that I got a high quality custom bag from http://www.bagbrewer.com/ and I haven't had any issues since then.

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