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Messages - erockrph

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1756
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Hop sediment
« on: April 22, 2014, 10:14:46 AM »
I've had this happen to me on more than a few occasions. Raw hop material can be harshly bitter, so give your bottles adequate time for the hops to settle out.

I did have one beer that was unsalvageable, but that was the perfect storm of bad conditions. I ended up overpriming a bit, so the beer was pretty fizzy. On top of that I used a very flocculant yeast (1968, I think), which all dropped like a stone and stuck tight to the bottom of the bottles before the hops could all settle out. Whenever I'd crack a bottle, the rush of carbonation kicked up all the loose hop sediment off the bottom of the bottle and it would all end up in the glass.

Now my practice is always to stop well short when racking to my bottling bucket. Better to leave a beer in the fermenter than ruin the rest of the case just to get one more.

1757
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bottle conditioned lager
« on: April 22, 2014, 10:04:19 AM »
Important lesson - always do a carb-check on bottle-conditioned beers BEFORE moving them to cold-storage.

1758
Kegging and Bottling / Re: My First Lager
« on: April 22, 2014, 10:02:30 AM »
What I've done for my bottle-conditioned lagers is to bottle after D-rest, wait 3 weeks or so for them to carbonate, then lager in the bottle. This way you don't have to worry about dropping out too much yeast during lagering. And you also get to sample your beer during cold-conditioning this way.

1759
All Grain Brewing / Re: Epic mash fail
« on: April 22, 2014, 09:21:05 AM »
I would've gotten the temp down into a standard mash range and given it a try at least. Maybe added of couple of pounds of crushed grains to get some more enzymes working.

+1 - bring it down to mash temp then add a couple pounds of Pils malt. And since you were brewing a hefe, even if the enzymes from the Pils didn't convert everything a little starch haze isn't necessarily a bad thing.

The other option I may have chosen is to just ride it out and pitch some of my house bug culture. The Brett will eat most of it eventually.

1760
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Question for chemist types
« on: April 22, 2014, 08:59:17 AM »
I did some googling and found a wiki on phenols. Most of it over my head. But it says that one naturally occuring phenol is calll thymol, found in thyme. Also in some hops. One article mentioned a correlation between thymol and beta acid, and that it can be isomerized in low levels of ethanol (like when dry hopping?).  There was a beekeeper forum that was talking about a pesticide for mites that contains thymol.

By the way, the article on thymol says that it is used as an antiseptic in some mouthwashes (chloroseptic I wonder?)

Once I used 4 oz of Mosaic dryhopped in an IPA and that beer was phenolic. Makes me wonder if they might be high in thymol, since there is no chlorine in my system.

The primary antiseptic in Cloroseptic and Listerine is phenol. Just plain old, straight-up phenol. That's where they get their medicinal taste. Other flavor compounds may be phenol-derivatives, but they don't necessarily taste like phenol. Chemically, alcohol is much closer to acetic acid than something like thymol is to phenol, yet vodka tastes nothing like vinegar.

1761
I can't offer any information on the chest freezer question. But I have found this carbonation chart to be very useful.

http://www.kegerators.com/carbonation-table.php

That's sure to come in handy. Thanks!

1762
I'm finally getting fed up enough with bottling that I'm planning on biting the bullet and getting started with kegging. My issue is that there is no way I'm going to convince the wife to let me get another chest freezer. Right now I have a small (5 cu ft) chest freezer that I'm using as a fermentation chamber (mainly for lagers).

I know it's not ideal, but is it even feasible to be using one chest freezer for both a fermentation chamber and for kegs? It only fits 2 fermenters, and I'm thinking I might be able to fit three 2.5-gallon kegs on there. So when I have lagers in primary I generally won't have any room for kegs in the cooler. I'm thinking that when I'm planning on pulling the kegs out of the fridge I can just bottle a few beers off the kegs first, and otherwise start drinking down my commercial stockpile during that time.

One other question I had - is it possible to force-carbonate at room temp? Is there some sort of PSI/temperature/volumes of CO2 chart? This way I can free up fridge space for brews I'm actually drinking, or use it as a ferm chamber while a brew is carbing up.

1763
Equipment and Software / Re: Torn between purchases
« on: April 18, 2014, 10:45:36 PM »
A mill is a great purchase, but there are plenty of ways to adjust for efficiency if you're off. There's no way to adjust for poor fermentation control.

1764
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Bagock Bock?
« on: April 14, 2014, 07:32:11 AM »
Dopplebawk?

1765
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Kids and Homebrew
« on: April 13, 2014, 07:26:34 PM »
Nothing yet, but I usually plan my brewdays around daddy time so I can enjoy some solitude. He's starting to hit the "I want to help you" phase, so I might let him start making hop additions. No IPA's yet, though - I don't think he's strong enough ;D

1766
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: starsans
« on: April 13, 2014, 02:59:42 PM »
how long will starsans last when mixed with distilled water?

I've gone 2 years.

Wow! Mine's pretty grungy-looking after 3 or 4 months, so I usually dump it then. But I don't doubt you've gone that long. pH has never been an issue for me.

1767
Beer Recipes / Re: Thoughts on an IPA
« on: April 12, 2014, 08:13:15 PM »
Thanks all. I am going to mash at 150 or 152 for ferment ability and pitch high. I did consider sugar I place of some base grain but I think I will go this route to start. I also wondered if the 10 min adds should just become all flameout with the 20 min stand. Since the wort is still so hot, are they all gonna become the same thing or does the rapid boil for 10 mins make a difference?

I prefer to add all my late hops at flameout to maximize flavor extraction. In my opinion, all that a vigorous boil is doing is blowing off hop oils.

1768
The Pub / Re: Computer - XP
« on: April 12, 2014, 08:03:58 PM »
Make a full backup of your PC now while it's in good working order. Then keep using it until you have an absolute need to upgrade (i.e., you need software that doesn't run on it, hardware craps out on you, actually get a virus that you can't recover from). There's no need to replace a computer now because at some point in the future you may need to upgrade.

And Windows has the "every other version" thing going for it, so if you can last until Windows 9, you may be fine. I loved XP, and I'm very happy with Win 7 right now. Hopefully 9 will be worthwhile whenever it drops.

1769
Other Fermentables / Re: Orange Drank
« on: April 12, 2014, 07:56:26 PM »
Sounds awesome. Maybe try lactose next if it's too dry. Cream Cycle beer. Did you hop it? If not I suggest MT Hood, like 30 IBUs at 20 min. Nice lemmony snickets to support the orange.

Nope, no hops. No boil even. Just tossed it all in the Better Bottle, shook it up and pitched the yeast.

I might draw off a few bottles' worth later and dry hop with a little Apollo and Nelson if I have another jug free at the time.

1770
Beer Recipes / Re: Thoughts on an IPA
« on: April 12, 2014, 07:51:41 PM »
I agree that you should sub the cane sugar for base malt if you're going to do it. Personally, I prefer not to sub in sugar for my regular IPA's. Good fermentation will get it plenty dry enough.

Obviously, if it were my IPA I'd use a crapload more late and dry hops. But this will be a solid IPA as-is, and a great place to start if you're looking to step up from APA's.

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