Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - erockrph

Pages: 1 ... 116 117 [118] 119 120 ... 260
1756
Beer Recipes / Re: IPA malt bill advice
« on: February 10, 2014, 04:53:54 PM »
Yeah it just depends on what you are going for. I prefer a more balanced IPA which is why I usually go with 20% munich. I think the original grain bill looks good but you could easily sub equal amounts of Vienna for Munich and Crystal 15 for something darker or not.

Don't get me wrong, I love me some Munich in an IPA. My last IPA had 20% Munich, 5% Victory and still tasted like a 60+ IBU Mai Tai. But I've tried brewing a hoppy Festbier and I definitely feel like I lost some of the hops to the malt.

1757
Beer Recipes / Re: IPA malt bill advice
« on: February 10, 2014, 12:05:22 PM »
Good advice all around. What I'd add is to keep the Munich to 20% or less. IMO, once you get above 20% Munich, the maltiness starts to compete with, rather than compliment, the hops.

1758
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Carbonation and perceived bitterness
« on: February 10, 2014, 11:00:38 AM »
Not sure about bitterness, but carbonation makes a world of difference when it comes to hop aroma.

1759
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Hop Utilization
« on: February 10, 2014, 10:55:34 AM »
.  One of the tests is the USDA stems and seeds check

Hmm... Surprised more guys from old dorm don't work at USDA ...

1760
Beer Recipes / Re: 1 Gallon extract recipe needed
« on: February 09, 2014, 12:24:27 PM »
Johnathan,
Correct me if I'm wrong, but are the IBU's predicted by BeerSmith something to take with a grain of salt? I can't imagine drinking a "Pale Ale" with ~125 IBUs. That sounds disgusting for me, and I like DIPA's.

The ceiling for what your palate can pick up is generally quoted at 60-70 IBU's. And the ceiling for IBU's in a finished beer is somewhere in the 100 IBU ballpark. The equations used to determine IBU's are merely tools for estimates. At best they will get you in a ballpark, and then you can tailor the recipe once you have "calibrated" it to your software, system and palate.

For example, I brewed an IPA this summer that my software calculated to be almost 400 IBU's. I sent it out for lab analysis and it came back at 98 IBU's. Flavorwise, it tasted like 60 IBU's, but with a rather smooth bitterness. Just because your software estimates 125 IBU's, that doesn't guarantee that it will be a gross beer. It will probably be an IPA rather than a Pale Ale, though.

1761
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Hop Utilization
« on: February 09, 2014, 12:16:35 PM »
I find that the Bitterness Ratio shown in BeerSmith as probably as valuable to me as the IBU calculation. I'm usually more interested in the balance between malt and hops than just a bitterness octane rating.

+1.  Agreed - BU/GU ratio is pretty important. 100 IBUs of Chinook would seem a lot more harsh than 100 IBUs of Mt Hood.

+2 - and 100 IBU of FWH or whirlpool hops would seem a lot less harsh than a traditional 60-minute bittering addition.

1762
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Malt head?
« on: February 09, 2014, 12:13:14 PM »
I have over 20 pounds of hops in the freezer, yet 8 of my last 10 beers I brewed have been malt-forward beers (and 1 of the remaining 2 was a lambic). I love hops, but there are a million commercial APA/IPA/IIPA's out there. The last 6 months or so I've had a few English/Scottish Ales and German Lagers that I've really liked, but I haven't been able to get my fill on the commercial stuff. Plus, I've brewed so many hoppy beers in the past 2 years that I feel the need to branch out.

I'm already starting to get a few ideas for new hoppy beers, so I'm sure I'll be back on the IPA train after I get the malty stuff out of my system.

1763
Beer Recipes / Re: 1 Gallon extract recipe needed
« on: February 07, 2014, 04:48:30 PM »
Please explain hop stand/whirlpool

I kill the heat, then slide the kettle off the burner until all boil activity stops. Then I add my flameout hops and stir them in. The pot then goes back over the still-warm burner (to help hold heat) with the lid on. I give it a good hard stir every 5 minutes or so. After the hop stand I chill as usual.

This mimics what the pros do with their whirlpool additions. You end up extracting a boatload of hop flavor and aroma and lose a lot less of it since the wort isn't actively boiling.

1764
Beer Recipes / Re: 1 Gallon extract recipe needed
« on: February 07, 2014, 04:38:06 PM »
If you need a recipe for this weekend it would be too late but Brooklynbrewshop.com has a book with 52 recipes for all grain 1 gallon batches.  They also give the 5 gallon equivalents.  I've brewed a few of them and I thought they turned out well.

The Whole Foods stores in my area sell them, so it may be an option on short notice for some as well.

1765
Beer Recipes / Re: 1 Gallon extract recipe needed
« on: February 07, 2014, 12:34:10 PM »
Here's what I would do for a 1-gallon IPA. I'd only bother with a 15-minute boil, since it's an extract batch. But then I'd hop stand/whirlpool for 60-90 minutes after the boil. IBU's will end up measuring in the 90-100 IBU range, but probably only taste like 60-70 IBU's.

Title: 1-Gallon IPA

Brew Method: Extract
Style Name: American IPA
Boil Time: 15 min
Batch Size: 1 gallons (fermentor volume)
Boil Size: 1.5 gallons
Boil Gravity: 1.043
Efficiency: 35% (steeping grains only)
No Chill: 10 minute extended hop boil time

STATS:
Original Gravity: 1.064
Final Gravity: 1.018
ABV (standard): 6.09%
IBU (tinseth): 292.38
SRM (morey): 6.61

FERMENTABLES:
1.5 lb - Dry Malt Extract - Extra Light (92.3%)

STEEPING GRAINS:
2 oz - American - Caramel / Crystal 40L (7.7%)

HOPS:
0.2 oz - Apollo, Type: Pellet, AA: 18, Use: Boil for 15 min, IBU: 50.65
0.5 oz - Apollo, Type: Pellet, AA: 18, Use: Boil for 0 min, IBU: 66.05
0.7 oz - Citra, Type: Pellet, AA: 14.8, Use: Boil for 0 min, IBU: 76.03
0.7 oz - Meridian, Type: Pellet, AA: 6.7, Use: Boil for 0 min, IBU: 34.42
0.7 oz - Nelson Sauvin, Type: Pellet, AA: 12.7, Use: Boil for 0 min, IBU: 65.24
0.3 oz - Apollo, Type: Pellet, AA: 18, Use: Dry Hop for 7 days
0.3 oz - Citra, Type: Pellet, AA: 14.8, Use: Dry Hop for 7 days
0.3 oz - Meridian, Type: Pellet, AA: 6.7, Use: Dry Hop for 7 days
0.3 oz - Nelson Sauvin, Type: Pellet, AA: 12.7, Use: Dry Hop for 7 days

YEAST:
Fermentis / Safale - American Ale Yeast US-05

1766
All Grain Brewing / Re: DMS causes
« on: February 07, 2014, 08:16:54 AM »
You guys think a pH of 5.3 would really cause that much tartness? I thought I read somewhere that most German breweries target a pH of 5.2 for lighter styles.

A little bit? Possibly. A significant amount? Most likely not. There are a lot of factors that come into play between mash pH and final beer pH (yeast being a major one). If a yeast strain doesn't typically produce a tart beer, I don't know if one or two points difference in the mash is going to make a huge difference in the finished beer.

Having said that, I still mash my Saisons at 5.3 and my Porters between 5.5 and 5.6 because it does make a difference in the finished beer. But that may end up being more of a factor of residual alkalinity than mash pH, since you have to consider any remaining buffering capacity left in the wort to determine how much downstream factors (boil, hops, fermentation, etc.) would have an effect on the finished beer's pH. I'll leave that up to the real chemists, though :)

1767
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast starter, multiple packs
« on: February 07, 2014, 06:25:16 AM »
Is a starter that small for 3 packs really going to give you enough healthy growth to be worthwhile? I recall some talks from recent NHC's (Neva Parker's IIRC), where she basically said it's not recommended to make a 1-liter starter for 1 pack because the growth you'd get is minimal. You'd be better off just pitching the yeast right from the pack, since yeast from the lab is almost always going to be healthier than yeast grown from a starter at home.

If you're constrained to a max of 1.5 liters for your starter size, I'd consider making a starter with one pack, then pitching the other 2 packs into the wort without making starters for those.

1768
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WLP037 - Yorkshire Square
« on: February 06, 2014, 01:06:40 PM »
having watched the anchor open fermenters work and seen that cool timelaps of the bigfoot fermenting at SN in open tanks I wonder if the whole 'open fermentation' on a homebrew scale where there is still a blanket of, if no pure co2 then atmosphere with significantly more co2 than ambient above the beer. those ferments overflow and there is 0 or even negative headspace in the fermenter.

Just a though. no science behind it whatsoever.

Interesting point. I may test this out once my basement gets up to ale temps. Split a batch - one goes in a 2 or 3-gallon bucket and one goes in a 6.5 gallon.

One nice side benefit of open fermentation is that my whole basement smells like Maris Otter and English Ale yeast. And it's also a caution never to do an open ferment on ciders...

1769
All Grain Brewing / Re: DMS causes
« on: February 06, 2014, 12:31:40 PM »
If your sanitation is up to snuff, then there's no reason you couldn't let it sit overnight to make sure you get as low as you need before pitching. I know there are guys out there who make good beer by pitching warm for their lagers, but I feel much more comfortable pitching down at 45F and starting the first week or so in the upper 40's.

1770
All Grain Brewing / Re: DMS causes
« on: February 06, 2014, 10:55:11 AM »
Any chance the thermostat on your temp controller could be out of calibration?

Pages: 1 ... 116 117 [118] 119 120 ... 260