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Messages - erockrph

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2626
All Grain Brewing / Re: Iron in Water
« on: May 14, 2013, 08:25:30 AM »
When I had my well tested the iron was 0.75ppm. The house filter was pretty old at the time, so I know that level has come down a bit now that I change the filter regularly, but it's still high enough to stain my showers/toilets/etc. Regardless, my tap water tastes good, and I haven't run into any issues brewing all-grain beer. I think you'll be fine at 0.3ppm as long as your water tastes good.

2627
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Bottling prep
« on: May 14, 2013, 08:11:09 AM »
Immediately after I pour a beer I rinse it in hot water until there is no foam/color/smell. I then inspect the bottle for anything that wouldn't rinse off and hit it with a bottle brush if needed. They air dry and I store them in empty cases or 6-packs loosely covered with a lid or foil.

On bottling day I use the dishwasher method. I run a rinse cycle on my empty dishwasher to get any residue of detergents rinsed out. Then I load it with bottles. I run a rinse cycle first (probably not necessary), then I run the Sanitize cycle. My kitchen is laid out pretty nicely for me to bottle sitting on the floor. I have my dishwasher in front of me, my bottling bucket on the island behind me, and I'm sitting on the floor on a towel (the towel is very important - you WILL spill beer). I have a small cup with Star San on the door of the dishwasher that I use to sanitize my caps.

2628
All Grain Brewing / Re: Grains on hand
« on: May 13, 2013, 12:38:35 PM »
I only brew 3 gallon batches and use all different base grains, so I don't usually buy them I'm bulk. I keep a stockpile if specialty grains and just buy my base malt one or two brews ahead of time.

Since I generally use half a pound or less of most specialty grains in a brew, I always buy a full pound at a time and that leaves me plenty for another batch or 2. I always keep the following on hand:

Carapils
Crystal 20
CaraMunich 3
English Extra Dark Crystal
Special B
Wheat
Victory
Aromatic
Chocolate
Roast Barley
Either Midnight Wheat or Carafa 3 special
Plus whatever else ends up left over from a particular recipe. I also try to keep a few pounds of Munich and 5 pounds of another base malt (Pils, 2-row or MO) for any spontaneous brewday as well.

2629
The Pub / Re: Fun stuff you find when you google yourself
« on: May 12, 2013, 08:40:03 PM »
Wow, anyone ever tell you that you look just like Kid Rock?

2630
The Pub / Re: A bomber is rarely a good deal
« on: May 12, 2013, 06:19:39 AM »
In my area you can get single 12oz bottles for 1/6 the price of a six pack.

Single bottles are at least 30% more expensive here. Those mix-a-six deals are usually $1.50-2.50 per bottle, while most craft six packs cost <$8, and some cost <$7.

Same here. Usually you get something like 10% off a sixer, but the markup on the singles is still higher than the mix-a-six or even the case discount. I usually try to stuff a bomber or two in there to save some $ on them.

My main issue with bombers is that I don't drink 22oz of a RIS or IIPA in one sitting. I'd much rather buy 12oz bottles, so that I'm not forced to buy more than I'm planning on drinking in one sitting. I'd gladly pay a premium price for 12oz bottles for a brewery's "premium" or "limited-release" beers. I'd rather see 4-packs for the same price as 6 on those beers than bombers for the price of 2-3 twelve ounce bottles.

2631
Beer Recipes / Re: Session IPA's
« on: May 11, 2013, 08:40:03 PM »
What kind of Brett character were you picking up? Was if barnyard/leather/funk, or was it cherry pie/pineapple? I could see how some of the newer hop varieties might hint at some of the fruitier Brett aromas, especially when coupled with a dry finish. But if you're picking up sweaty saddle blanket, then it's likely an infection.

Of course, you could brew a 100% Brett Session IPA, but that's another story.

2632
Beer Recipes / Re: For my next stunt
« on: May 11, 2013, 06:00:32 AM »
Maybe it's the power of suggestion, but I'm definitely picking up a Bud-like note 3 weeks into lagering on my hoppy Helles Bock. It's not necessarily a bad thing, but it does stick out as a distinct American lager flavor.
Is it like green apples?  I always get acetaldehyde out of bud.

I'll have to crack into another one tonight and see if I can pick that out specifically. Between the 7 day diacetyl/dry-hop rest and the large amount of Citra/Amarillo/Mosaic/Motueka I used I don't know if there would be much acetaldehyde left or whether it would be drowned in hops even if it was present.

I don't drink enough Bud to be able to say it was something specific to Budweiser, just that there was a hint of something that made me think in the vein of Bud/Busch/PBR/etc.

2633
Equipment and Software / Re: PBW
« on: May 11, 2013, 05:50:55 AM »
My LHBS has a Better Bottle on display with a crack at the bottom where the wall meets the bottom.  The crack apparently was due to chemical stress or some other environmental stress fracture.  It has a sign on it reminding you not to store chemicals (PBW, StarSan, etc.) for extended amounts of time; just clean and sanitize and get the chemicals out and let it dry.  Always put water in first, then the chemicals, etc.  I know I get lazy and let my carboy sit for days with PBW until I get around to cleaning it.  I guess if I ever replace them with Better Bottles I will have to make sure I am careful about that.

I've let mine sit and soak for days on end with no ill effects.   I am not using PBW, so maybe that's the difference.  I dunno.  I've had nothing but good with my BBs.

I haven't put my BB's through a lot of use, but I have let them sit with PBW a couple of times for 2-3 days with no ill effect. Mixed it with hot (~120ish) tap water, too. This may be because I mix my PBW at a lower concentration (1 tsp per gallon instead of 1 Tbsp/gal) than recommended, so YMMV.

2634
I think you need to watch your IBUs if you try this. I'm a huge fan of Schneider's Hopfenweisse, but that's closer to an APA than an IPA in bittering level. I think with the right choice of hops you can definitely get a nice aroma and flavor profile, but an 80 IBU hop bomb is going to clash with the hefe yeast.

2635
I think it is very reasonable to think that the bulk of the fermentation is done already, especially at that high of a temp. At 74F ambient temp, your beer was probably up close to 80F at the peak of fermentation activity. Fermentation produces heat, and the higher the temp the faster the fermentation. For most ales you are generally best served by keeping the temperature of the beer in the low-to-mid 60's.

Even if the yeast has consumed all the sugar they're going to eat, they will continue to break down fermentation byproducts for several days afterwards. Don't rush the beer, let it sit for at least 10 days or so in primary before bottling (personally, I give it 2 weeks as a rule of thumb). And yes, it is safe to skip secondary. I think the majority of us here don't use a secondary except in certain specific circumstances (such as a beer that you want to age for an extended period of time before packaging).

2636
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: SN/DFH IPA Glasses
« on: May 11, 2013, 04:58:25 AM »
I find the base too narrow, too unstable for operating under the influence.

That's what's kept me from pulling the trigger on buying a few of these. They just don't look stable to me. I think I'd just upgrade my Sam Adams glasses to 22oz if I were to expand my glassware selection right now.

2637
All Grain Brewing / Re: a first - my hefe dropped clear!
« on: May 10, 2013, 09:32:42 AM »
When I do a (rarely) wheat beer I put 1/2 tsp cornstarch in at the END of the boil.  Adds permanent starch haze!

I went to make a starter the night before for a recent Alt and didn't realize that I was out of DME. The only base malt I had laying around was some wheat malt. I put it in a grain bag and tried to brew a makeshift BIAB starter. I was busy that night and couldn't manage my temps as well as I'd like and couldn't give it extra mash time to make up for the temp swings either. Needless to say, I'm pretty sure it didn't didn't convert fully.

Since I was brewing on a schedule, I just had to roll with it. I pitched the whole 2.5L starter into my 3 gallons of wort. After 6 weeks of lagering the haze is still there in the finished beer. Thankfully, it tastes fantastic despite the haze. Still, I learned something new. For my next wheat beer I may throw in a half pound of wheat right before vorlauf as a way to add some haze.

2638
The Pub / Re: Why I run Windows
« on: May 09, 2013, 06:52:05 PM »
SSD has its own pitfalls. im not convinced the technology is 100% stable yet.  but it sure is getting there:)

I can't argue with that, but they're so damn fast that it's totally worth it to me. The first time I booted into Windows in 30 seconds I was hooked.

2639
The Pub / Re: Best TV theme song
« on: May 09, 2013, 08:36:53 AM »
THE BEST IS...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=roHYXrLhmHc

Nice! Had to break out the fretless after listening to that...

2640
Beer Recipes / Re: For my next stunt
« on: May 09, 2013, 08:26:04 AM »
Ok cool then I would be hitting my target if its not like bud

2007 is believed to be Bud's yeast......

http://www.mrmalty.com/yeast.htm

Wyeast seems to confirm this http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=26

Wyeast 2007 is the classic American lager strain. This mild, neutral strain produces beers with a nice malty character and a smooth palate. It ferments dry and crisp with minimal sulfur or diacetyl. Beers from this strain exhibit the characteristics of the most popular lager in America.

Maybe it's the power of suggestion, but I'm definitely picking up a Bud-like note 3 weeks into lagering on my hoppy Helles Bock. It's not necessarily a bad thing, but it does stick out as a distinct American lager flavor.

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