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Messages - erockrph

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Quad too Sweet - What to do?
« on: November 11, 2014, 06:57:16 PM »
I'd either:

A) Leave it alone

or, if I was feeling adventurous:

B) Brew a Candi Syrup "mead" in the 7% range, and use this to blend with the beer to drop the gravity while still keeping the ABV in the right ballpark.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: carb volume for 22oz bottles
« on: November 11, 2014, 04:28:33 PM »
You could always pasteurize the bottles once they get to where you want them. Submerge the bottles in a water bath until the beer gets up to 140f, then hold it there for 20 minutes or so. No clue to what extent this may affect beer flavor, though.

Equipment and Software / Re: PBW 101
« on: November 11, 2014, 02:56:37 PM »
Anyone ever run PBW through an automatic coffee maker?
It sure worked great on the carafe and my nasty old thermos.

Brilliant! I've used it to break up burnt-on crud on pots and pans, but never thought about running it through the Keurig. I'm thinking PBW > vinegar (to neutralize & help dissolve scale) > 2x hot water rinse should do the trick
The scale in mine is most likely calcium carbonate from our mineral laden water. An acid like vinegar will take care of it. If you don't use vinegar or other acids, coffee makers last a year around here.

PBW works great on organic deposits, so it will take care of the brown build up in a carafe.

All right, I'll run the test and report back.
FYI - I ran some PBW through my Keurig a couple of weeks ago and it worked like a charm. I put about 1/2 tsp in 8oz of water (I have a single cup brewer), then ran the PBW water through twice. I then ran three "rinse" cycles through it. Five years of buildup is now just like new.

The Pub / Re: What to read
« on: November 11, 2014, 07:42:28 AM »
Dan brown's books are so much better than the Hanks movies. I guess that's true most of the time, but especially with these
+1 - I don't read a lot of fiction, but this whole series is a good read. Movies weren't that bad, but books were a lot better.

Beer Recipes / Re: IPA Water profile
« on: November 11, 2014, 07:36:42 AM »
You can always add some Gypsum to taste later in the process if you feel like you need it. 150ppm is certainly a good starting point. Personally, I stick to the 200ppm range in my IPA's, which tend to be moderately bittered with massive late hops. I can start to taste the sulfate once my beers creep into the 300+ppm range.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Hop stand newbie advice
« on: November 11, 2014, 07:28:26 AM »
If it has a green hue, then you've let a fair amount of hop debris into your bottles (or at least the one you opened). It's only 8 days as you say - that stuff will settle out over time. Give it another week and be sure to pour carefully with the rest. In the future you could wrap a (sanitized) fine mesh hop bag or even a piece of nylon women's hose around the end of your racking cane to act as a filter. This will help get cleaner beer into your bottling bucket. Don't draw any big conclusions on the beer yet - hops taste great, the debris does not. It'll settle out in time.

EDIT -  As soon as you feel the beer is carbed properly, it'll speed up the settling process to keep the bottles in the fridge. Just be sure it's carbed well first - it won't carb any further in the fridge.
+1 - let it carbonate fully, then store them as cold as possible. The rough taste is from hop material in the beer, it should clear once the beer clears.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: starter for dry lager yeast?
« on: November 10, 2014, 09:06:26 PM »
A few minutes ago I just tapped a keg of doppelbock brewed with 34/70 and it is one of the best beers I've ever brewed. I used one packet (rehydrated) in 3 gallons of 1.073 wort. No starter needed.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Starter for Strong ale
« on: November 10, 2014, 09:01:01 PM »
There has been some discussion here as of late suggesting that stepping up the gravity on your starters may help acclimate your yeast to higher gravity wort.
Or it may not.  IME, it's unnecessary.
I agree that it's not necessary. I've had plenty of big beers ferment out perfectly well using a single starter of normal gravity. But I do feel that repitches from a 1.050-1.060ish batch tend to perform a bit better than a single-step starter.

If you're going to do a starter in two steps of the same volume, using a higher gravity the second time will net you some additional growth. It may not guarantee you a better beer, but I don't see a reason why not to make the second step a bit higher gravity than the first one.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Starter for Strong ale
« on: November 10, 2014, 09:55:18 AM »
If you can I would do the single step 3 liter. a given volume of wort amount of extract will only grow a certain amount of yeast. adding that same amount of yeast to the same amount of wort again won't result in significant additional growth.

If I recall a 1 liter starter will max out at about 200 billion cells
Slight correction there.

There has been some discussion here as of late suggesting that stepping up the gravity on your starters may help acclimate your yeast to higher gravity wort.

If you went the stepped starter route, I'd make your second step maybe around 1.050 instead of 1.030. You will get some yeast growth, since there is more extract (sugar) present than the previous step, even though it is the same volume. I'd pitch this step at high krausen if at all possible.

Beer Recipes / Re: Looking for a beer recipe
« on: November 10, 2014, 09:37:05 AM »
What have you brewed so far? What do you like to drink?

Scottish ales are a good choice, as are stouts and porters. English brown ale would be a good choice as well.

If you can brew lagers, then just about any lager style will get you what you're after, especially Märzen or anything darker.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Northern Brewer Prime Dose
« on: November 10, 2014, 08:01:20 AM »
What, no "This topic has been moved: Duplicate"?  :D

At least he didn't post it in All-Grain...  :P

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Extra IBU's from Boil to Hop Stand?
« on: November 09, 2014, 09:53:33 PM »
I actually think I'm gonna tone down my dry hopping after reading a section in the Hops book where it mentions after a half pound per barrel you get significantly lower return and few were going above a pound per barrel. In home brewers terms that would be .25 to .5 oz per gallon right? I've been doing closer to an ounce per gallon dry. Probably wasting $ on hops & sucking up more beer.

The key to obtaining consistent late hoping results is to purchase volatile oil-rated hops.    Mark Garetz used to sell volatile oil-rated hops.
Hopefully this will one day become as common information as AA%. I wish everyone was doing this.

The Pub / Re: ABInBev acquires 10 Barrel Brewing
« on: November 07, 2014, 06:00:04 PM »

For us here in Texas we did not get GI before the buyout. Now we get everything. Well, we haven't seen some of the BCBS variants yet but I am sure they are coming this year. So the buyout has worked out ok for us. Apparently the more expensive beers aren't selling like AB thought because I've seen the 750ml beers disappearing from all the grocery stores where they used to be. I swiped several bottles on clearance for $5 last week so I can't complain.
I'd buy $5 Juliet by the truckload...

The Pub / Re: Feedback on NHC 2014 Intro to Sake presentation
« on: November 07, 2014, 04:01:34 PM »
I was not present for the presentation, but I have listened to the recorded version. I actually gave it a re-listen yesterday since I was going out for sake & sushi.

I don't have any specific recommendations, other than the presentation was excellent. I would have liked a bit more details at a few steps, but given the subject matter I think you made the right choice to present the topic at a high level and leave plenty of time for the audience to ask questions.

Speaking of questions, since we have you as a captive audience I do have a few questions about sake brewing if you don't mind.

For nigorizake, you mention that it's pretty much a matter of sucking up a portion of the lees and including that in the final package. I was just wondering if there's any steps you would take to separate the yeast cake from the rice solids. Or is there no separate yeast cake? I know what it tastes like when I get yeast in a beer that shouldn't have any, I wouldn't want that yeasty flavor in a nigori sake.

Has anyone in the homebrew sake community tried polishing their own rice? I was wondering if a rock polisher (or some other device) might be able to shear rice down to a level equivalent of what is used in ginjo/daiginjo sake.

Thanks again for an excellent presentation!

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What's Brewing this Weekend? 01/18/2014
« on: November 07, 2014, 03:35:26 PM »
Sub 4% Saison with 3711 and first trial on my mill.
WY3711 is possibly the perfect yeast for a session beer. My table saison finishes at about 1.004, but still has a fantastic mouthfeel.

This makes me wonder if 3711 would be good as a dual pitch to add body to a session brew, or whether it will have too much flavor impact even if it's only added at the end of the primary fermentation.

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