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Messages - erockrph

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One thing to note is that most Ribes varieties are susceptible to white pine blister rust, so they are restricted or banned in many areas. Even if you are able to find an online supplier that will ship them to you (hint, hint ;) ), use good judgement whether it would it would be the best idea for your local flora to introduce Ribes plants.
Most Ribes were wiped out in the 40's-50's by Departments of Agriculture who wanted to protect white pines from the rust, but regulations in many states are relaxing lately. White pine blister rust kills white pines, but requires nearby Ribes plants to complete it's life cycle. Therefore - no Ribes = no rust.

A few details that can help us be responsible Ribes owners.

Black and golden currants are the worst carriers, so if you can go with another currant or gooseberries, that's good. Black and golden currants are banned in Delaware while other Ribes sp. are allowed. The ban was recently revised according to recommendations from University of Delaware pathologists.

There are rust-resistant varieties of Ribes, but they are only resistant to SYMPTOMS. They can still carry the disease and transfer it to nearby white pines.

The disease does require some proximity to pines to transfer. So if you plant Ribes, plant them >500ft from white pines if you can manage it. If you have a grove of white pines on your property that you love and you can't plant far away - maybe you should just plant some blueberries or another small fruit.

Thanks, Jimmy! I wasn't aware of all the details, especially regarding the resistant varieties. I will definitely take a good look around before I decide to start propagating my currants to different areas of my property.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Stuck Fermentation
« on: July 24, 2014, 05:19:51 PM »
Well I can always make a quick Oatmeal Stout and use the slurry from that. I was being impatient and trying to hurry along this batch (gotta learn from my mistake I suppose) next time I'll give it like 6-8 weeks in primary.

Bingo. For big beers, low & slow is the way to go. I guarantee you will like the results much better.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Stuck Fermentation
« on: July 24, 2014, 03:41:40 PM »
Hydrometer was floating and spun it a little to ensure a proper reading. I guess I can always get a little DME and some more yeast and make a fresh slurry to add to the carboy. It still has a syrup-y sweetness to it and I'm hoping to reach a final gravity of 1.010 - 1.027 Maybe stir it up a little and put in a warm room for a few days?
There is just no way S-04 is going to get an 1.124 extract barleywine down to 1.010. Even 1.027 isn't guaranteed, to be honest. I'd pitch an active slurry of yeast ASAP.

Racking off the yeast cake didn't help your cause. At homebrew scales autolysis isn't an issue even after a few months. You should never rack a beer to secondary until you've hit your FG.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Barleywine Yeast Suggestions
« on: July 24, 2014, 11:12:48 AM »
I'm currently planning to mash at 151. When formulating my recipe, BeerSmith says I should hit 1.026 FG. Then again, you really can never nail the FG perfectly with bigger beers. Only about 9% specialty grains, so I'm thinking that will also help the attenuation.

Got a recipe? 1.026 sounds kinda high.  I would mash at 148 for 90-120 minutes

I don't think 1.026 is too high at all for a beer like that.
+1 - Good catch. A lot of good English Barleywines are sippin' beers. One of the best beer bars I've ever been to (no longer in business, unfortunately) served Thomas Hardy in a cordial glass. I was a little caught off guard at the time, but it worked and it definitely changed the way I think about certain beers.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Barleywine Yeast Suggestions
« on: July 24, 2014, 09:54:14 AM »

Alt or not, call it what you want. But for any beer 2.5 lbs of crystal is too much per 10 gallon batch. You will already have cloying qualities in your BW due to left over unfermentable sugars. IME what you are creating here is going to be overly cloying, sweetish and not very drinkable. Consider cutting the crystal in half, at least.

I agree with you in regards to the Alt being too much crystal, which is why I was toying with doing a brown instead. Additionally, I've made great beers with 2.5# of crystal without being cloyingly sweet. In the grand scheme of the grist, I think it's still a small percentage. We each have our own preferences though.

I think you might run into attenuation issues with your BW with that much crystal. I like the Nut Brown partigyle idea. Maybe you want to reserve some of the Crystal to cap the mash for your 2nd gyle.

I know it's not what you're looking for but wlp670 American farmhouse blend makes a very nice barleywine. It took my 1.106 BW down to 1.016. It took about a year for the brett to finish up but worth the wait. It had a wonderful fruity flavor when young and it continues to develop in the bottle. Last one I tried tasted of dried figs and dates.

As far an non-traditional BW yeasts go, WY1762 works really well, too.

Beer Recipes / Re: First Lager
« on: July 24, 2014, 08:42:30 AM »
+1 to just about everything said here (except add the appropriate umlauts :) )

The Märzen recipe in BCS is killer, and this is just about the perfect time of year to brew it. The lager talk from this year's NHC was great - wish I could have tried their beers.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Barleywine Yeast Suggestions
« on: July 24, 2014, 08:16:34 AM »
I'm currently planning to mash at 151. When formulating my recipe, BeerSmith says I should hit 1.026 FG. Then again, you really can never nail the FG perfectly with bigger beers. Only about 9% specialty grains, so I'm thinking that will also help the attenuation.

Got a recipe? 1.026 sounds kinda high.  I would mash at 148 for 90-120 minutes
He has not said what the OG was. A FG of 1.026 is in the range for a beer that starts at 1.100+. I brewed one 3 weeks back that had an OG of 1.115, and used Wyeast 1028. I might rack to a keg today, and will see what the FG is. Will report back when I know. It was a Thomas Hardy clone.

TH Clone? Recipe please :)

The main keys are oxygenation, fermentability of your wort, and a HUGE pitch of yeast. Honestly, 12.5% isn't terribly high for an ABV. I think most yeast strains can handle it, but some will be more attenuative than others.

My most recent barleywine was 100% MO with an OG of 1.142 and finished at 1.024, for an abv in the 15.5%-18% range (depending on which calculation you use). I used the WLP037 (Yorkshire Square), and pitched on about 2/3 of the cake from a 1.056ish brew.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Brett / Black IPA mash pH?
« on: July 24, 2014, 07:17:41 AM »
I'm not really sure if 5.37 vs 5.4 for a mash pH will give you a noticeable difference. If you want to keep the harshness of the bitterness down, maybe consider skipping the boil hops and doing a hop stand/whirlpool only.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Gravity and Sediment
« on: July 22, 2014, 05:55:30 PM »
The hop particles are in suspension and not dissolved so they should have no effect on gravity.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: omega yeast
« on: July 22, 2014, 05:53:17 PM »
Liquid yeast without a starter can easily take 1-2 days before fermentation really takes off.


So it sounds like, for an APA or IPA, most people who whirlpool hop use little to no boil additions other than bittering.  I will be doing my first brew with this technique on Saturday with the recipe below.  We will see how it goes.
Bingo. The main purpose for hop stands and whirlpool additions is to extract flavor and aroma from hops without boiling them off. Steep additions give a lot more flavor than late boil additions, so if you're using this technique you would typically use it in lieu of late kettle additions.

What most people describe as piney, I describe as freshly-soiled litter box.

I have a kitty with an aim problem, so I am no stranger to the heady aroma of cat urine. Yet I've never picked up any flavor/aroma of cat pee in a beer. It never ceases to amaze me how different everyone's perceptions of taste and aroma are.

Any thoughts on using black currants in cider as a source of tannin?  Thanks for the info and the reminder for me to pick my black currants.

I think I might do the syrup thing and try tasting it in various things. That sounds like an interesting idea, but the currant flavor isn't exactly neutral. In something like a cherry or raspberry cider I'd imagine it would work quite well.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Hop steeping process
« on: July 22, 2014, 10:39:50 AM »
For my IPA's with no boil additions, I kill the heat, then add the hops as soon as all boiling activity stops. I put the lid on and give it a good stir every 5-10 minutes. I've steeped as long as 90 minutes, but I usually do 45 minutes to an hour.

For APA's and other hoppy brews where I want a controlled IBU level, I kill the heat and wait until my wort gets down to 185ish before adding my steep hops. I only brew 3 gallons, so I don't really have to use a chiller. 5 minutes of stirring with the lid off usually gets the temp down in the range I want.

And back to the OP - I typically use a 60-minute addition in addition to a hop stands when A) I want a firmer bitterness in an IPA (which is getting less and less often these days) or B) I want a controlled amount of IBU's. In case B I wait until my wort gets down to 180-185ish before adding my steep hops, to minimize further isomerization.

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