Spray everything down with Starsan first and I'd say you have at least a 90% chance of still being fine by the time the keg kicks again.
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US-05 is a very good dry yeast. It may not be quite as clean as WY1056, but it is pretty darn close. It is a bit harder to get to drop clear and to my pallet can sometimes leave a "dusty" character (which I think some people call "peach") which slightly muddles the flavor of the beer, where as 1056 is cleaner and brighter. That said, especially on very hoppy beers, I think most would be hard pressed to tell the difference.
I have mentioned this fact more than one time. Cold-side aeration does not lead to the development of 2-nonenal (a.k.a. that stale paper-like flavor). Oxidation that leads to 2-nonenal development occurs during the malting and mashing processes, as 2-nonenal precusors are developed during the malting and mashing processes. In essence, 2-nonenal is a hot-side, not a cold-side phenomenon. Formation of this compound in finished beer occurs in the absence of oxygen.
So then, the (only) oxidized batches of beer I have had over the years where I was sloppy in racking, causing noticeable splashing, were all coincidences ? Two of these were hefe/wit styles where, by your info, the copious amounts of yeast in suspension should have easily absorbed the oxidation from splashing and didn't. Sorry, I still don't buy it. I've brewed a long time too, and my only oxidized batches were those where there was a lot of cold side splashing. Not a coincidence.
Cool thanks everyone. I will look into BIAB. And I have also been thinking if brewing smaller batches so I can brew more often and experiment more. Thanks for all the advice.
You know, I wouldn't mind doing that one, but I have a creeping suspicion that the past 3-4 one gallon 20 minute batches I made were crap in part bc of the short boil. Thoughts?