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Messages - erockrph

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Beer Recipes / Re: Simcoe and Amarillo IPA
« on: May 06, 2013, 03:43:48 PM »
It's not an IPA without dry hops. I'd go with about 2-3 ounces of each.

I'm also a big fan of hop stands. I'd move each addition 5 minutes closer to flameout then do a hot hop stand. I like 60-90 minutes for my IPAs, but 30 minutes is a good start if you don't want to overshoot your bitterness.

Ingredients / Re: Ginger and Belgian Style Yeast
« on: May 06, 2013, 03:28:44 PM »
In general I think ginger would work well with Belgian yeast. Unibroue is nice because you can ferment it cool and get a very restrained yeast character but still retain that plummy, distinct house Unibroue character. I brewed a Quad at 62f this winter and while the overall yeast character is pretty mellow, it is still unmistakably Unibroue.

All Things Food / Re: Growing food - The Garden Thread
« on: May 06, 2013, 06:02:02 AM »
Got the first wave in over the past few days. Built a 3x9 raised bed for my 2-year old's own garden and planted some carrots, marigolds and nasturtiums. Also got my first wave of veggies in - peas, a few short rows of root veggies (radish, carrot, beet & parsnip), some beans, corn and 2 hills of zucchini to get them started. Hoping to finish the beans and root veggies over the next week or two, then soybeans, cukes, tomatoes and peppers are up next.

As usual, I think I'm going to run out of space. No clue where pumpkins and melons are going to go. I might have to plant them in the middle of the peas and hope the peas finish up by the time the pumpkins and melons get too big.

The Pub / Re: Sh!t Beer Geeks Say
« on: May 04, 2013, 08:33:26 PM »
I have definitely used the "like being smashed in the face by..." line on many occasions. But it was a grapefruit, not mangoes. That's because I was into craft beer before this newfangled Citra came around. There was just Cascade and whatever the heck English breweries use, I think it was heather or bog myrtle or something.

Equipment and Software / Re: Cleaning Mills- Barley Crusher
« on: May 04, 2013, 08:24:22 PM »
Gravity and time seem to work remarkably well on my Barley Crusher. No matter how much I bang/spin it after I mill a batch of grain, there's a mysterious pile of dust underneath the mill after a week or two. I'm not overly concerned about the last little bit of grain remnants that stick to the rollers after that.

I suppose if the last thing you milled was a whole lot of Black Patent all by itself, and you are brewing a helles as your next brew, that may be more of a concern. I tend to mix in my specialty grains with my base malt in the hopper specifically to avoid this scenario.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: An impuslive experiment
« on: May 03, 2013, 10:49:05 AM »
So in a fit of randomness i just drove down to my LHBS and bought the following
4 1 gallon clear jugs with caps and 3pc airlocks
10 lbs of maris otter
2 oz cascade pellets
2 oz willemetta pellets
3 oz simcoe leaf hops
2 oz citra pellets
1 packet of US-05
Plan: To make 4 1 gallon SMASH beers at a time using the same base malt and yeast, with 4 different hops.

Has anyone ever done anything like this in such a small scale?  Im hoping by doing this it will help me shore up my recipes, pallet and brewing science techniques.

I still do this to test out new ingredients. Here are the results of my last single-hop test batches:

I find it easier to use DME instead of all-grain for trialing hops, because you don't need an extended boil. I can get 6 or 7 one-gallon batches done in the amount of time it takes for one all-grain brewday. I highly recommend doing SMaSH or something similar to learn about ingredients.

All Grain Brewing / Re: CLOUDY Weizen
« on: May 03, 2013, 09:43:48 AM »
How did you handle the berries? If you heated them prior to adding them to the fermenter it could be pectin haze.

I store everything in open buckets in my basement. I let them air dry after washing and then sanitize right before using.


Yeast and Fermentation / Re: starter volume
« on: May 03, 2013, 07:12:27 AM »
Yeastcalc mentions an "ideal gravity" of 1.037 for a starter - perhaps that was done to keep the grams of DME to milliliters of water ratio at a nice comfortable 10:100.

I'll assume the growth rate calculators were set up based on that OG, but does it really make that much of a difference in the growth rate or overall yeast health between a liter at 1.037 and a liter at 1.030?

I will leave the discussion of yeast health to the microbiologists, but overall growth rate would be less at a lower gravity just because there's less food for the yeast to eat.

They do not dissolve, but they do disperse into very fine particles. You will be left with some green muck left over. If some gets into your fermenter it's generally not too big of a deal, but most brewers try to keep it out of the fermenter.

Ingredients / Re: Dry hop a lager?
« on: May 02, 2013, 06:09:16 AM »
Well I broke down and dry hopped a 1/2 ounce of Mt hood in my American and a 1/2 of Goldings in my Bohemian. They are in a 60 deg D rest now. Will test FG and sample for Acetaldehyde in a week

Jim, I would have waited to dry hop until after the D-Rest.  You are probably blowing off much of the aroma if there is activity......


Unless there is really vigorous fermentation I doubt that this is the case. Plus, there is some information out there that suggests that yeast actually produce some of the desired hop aroma components. IMO you have more potential benefit from starting the dry hopping earlier in the process.

All Grain Brewing / Re: % of Munich for light summer ale
« on: May 02, 2013, 06:05:31 AM »
I agree with most of the above posts. I think 20-30% is a good target range where you start to get a nice flavor contribution from the Munich. And if you like Munich, you can push it a lot higher, even in a light beer. The only time I would recommend that you keep the Munich under a certain amount would be for a really hoppy style like an APA or IPA. In that case once you start to go over 30% or so the Munich starts to compete with the hops. But even for something like a farmhouse or hoppy summer wheat beer I think you can get away with pushing the Munich up quite a bit higher if you really wanted to.

Ingredients / Re: Dry hop a lager?
« on: May 01, 2013, 05:08:46 PM »
A friend of mine recently brought me a Sam Adams Double Agent IPL hopped with Zeus, Simcoe, Citra, Ahtanum, Cascade, Centennial, and Nelson Sauvin hops. I belive this is a dry hopped beer. It's very nice.

I need to try this beer soon.

I'm a big fan of brewing hoppy lagers myself. I prefer malts like Munich instead of crystal in my hoppy beer, so going the lager route is a natural extension of that. I generally dry hop in conjunction with an extended D-rest, since I like to dry hop warm. I find that the cold conditioning process helps crash out any unwanted vegetative material and hop tannins that comes from dry hopping.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Starter Boil Duration
« on: May 01, 2013, 05:01:30 PM »
I generally boil for 60-90 minutes, add hops, chill and give it a minute or 2 of O2. Then I bottle about 2 weeks later :)

Actually, for lagers where I'm doing a true starter and not just a 3-gallon batch of low-gravity brew, I am thinking of going to *gasp* no boil! I figure there can't be much growing in my DME or nutrient, and if I use bottled RO water I should be fine.

I think that the purpose of adding crystal malts at sparge is so that it won't affect the main mash pH.  Once the mash is complete, adding any roast or crystal malts won't have an effect on the main mash, but they will still get add color and flavor.  I've been doing this for a while now, basically to dial in the mash without having to measure the pH every time.

I thinks that's correct to some degree. However in in my case, it's the color im after without the roast flavor, and the addition timing is not to control ph. since its only 2oz, the impact is only .02 for ph anyway.

Another option would be to cold steep. I usually do this when I'm looking for color without roastiness.

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