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Messages - erockrph

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Bru'n water PH using German Melanoiden
« on: October 16, 2014, 05:15:01 AM »
If you're experimenting, try crushing the Melanoidin malt separately. Dough in without the Melanoidin, check the pH, then add the Melanoidin and recheck pH. Run calculations through Brunwater (and maybe Brewer's Friend, too) for the same recipe both with and without the Melanoidin. It would be very interesting to see how each one compares.

One other thought - are you using a specific base malt in these recipes that may be different than what you typically use? For example, if these are lagers, then maybe you're using a lot more Pils or Munich than you would typically use in other brews.

For me, the differences between Brewer's Friend and Brun'water have been miniscule (.02-.03 at most). I made sure to compare the water profiles for three or four different recipes between the two before I felt comfortable usiong them interchangeably.

Since I use Brewer's Friend for my recipe design, I typically use their water calculator. I use Brun'water when I'm looking to try out a new water profile, but then I generally use Brewer's Friend to apply it to a specific recipe.

I agree that the Brewer's Friend interface can be a bit awkward. Maybe you're not inputting something the same between the two?

One other point of note - I don't sparge, so water calculators are a bit simpler for me. I can't comment on whether something is going on with the sparge calculations.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast Starter Unresponsive
« on: October 15, 2014, 04:25:51 AM »
Lager starters can take a while to get going, IME. They don't always look like they're doing much, either. Just ride it out. I'm sure you'll be fine.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Bru'n water PH using German Melanoiden
« on: October 15, 2014, 04:23:57 AM »
My thought is that Melanoidin is simply Munich malt on steroids, and Munich malt was developed to provide some acidity to counteract the carbonate water of Munich.  I read this about Munich malt many years ago....maybe Noonan's Brewing Lager Beer?  At any rate, my experience is that Munich malt indeed does provide significantly more acidity than pilsner malt. So I am not surprised by your results.
I was thinking something similar. Melanoidin/Aromatic malt is like extra dark Munich rather than a crystal malt. I use Kai's water calculator on Brewer's Friend and it handles Aromatic as a "Roasted Malt". I'm not sure how this compares to Brunwater, or what the calculation is behind the scenes. I do use Castle Aromatic in a lot of my maltier beers, and my pH is always in the ballpark I'm shooting for.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Another BIAB thread
« on: October 14, 2014, 04:26:02 PM »
I've heard not to squeeze the bag. Is that just out of fear of it ripping? I think the bag should be squeezed and I squeeze the heck out of it when I use a bag for fruit in melomels so I don't think that's a problem. I've been going finer and finer with my crush anyway. I'll probably try no sparge first if your getting those numbers.

It's the mythological fear that squeezing the bag will release tannins from the grain.

I suppose if you are using a cloth bag there is some risk of tearing the fabric but any nylon or other manufactured product should not rip open unless you are really going to town squeezing that thing or the seam has come loose. In four years of using the same nylon bag and squeezing the heck out of it I haven't had a problem.

I've ripped a couple of nylon grain bags from oversqueezing, but a good voile custom BIAB bag shouldn't have any issues. If you're using a coarse-mesh bag (such as muslin), then you could potentially squeeze some husk material out of the bag and into the boil. But if you're using a tight-mesh bag there should be no problem.

The Pub / Re: Subliminal advertising
« on: October 14, 2014, 02:10:15 PM »
I think it was better when CAMRA did it back in 2001

Is it blurry because she was cask conditioned?


Beer Recipes / Re: double IPA
« on: October 14, 2014, 02:07:35 PM »
for sure going for a high sulfate water. using the bru'n water pale ale profile.

I do have more hops. I've got

(converted to ounces for the metrically disinclined)
6 oz centennial
6 oz citra
5 oz cascade

I've got some willamette and maybe a bit of magnum, and a few other odds and ends as well but I don't want to go crazy.

I'll up the whirlpool amounts. and the whirlpool time.
I think your blend is pretty good. I wouldn't mess around with other hop varieties - just up the amounts. The only exception is if you have something dank/piny like Chinook/Columbus/Simcoe. The varieties you're using are pretty citrus-forward, and Cascade can be pretty floral sometimes. A touch of pine on the palate might be a good counterpoint.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Another BIAB thread
« on: October 14, 2014, 01:54:43 PM »
Also, you can go a lot finer on your milling with BIAB since you really don't need the filter bed to runoff the mash and sparge. 

Eric - are you getting those efficiency numbers with at the same mill gap as if you were going to do a normal mash/sparge?
I haven't done a normal mash with sparge since I got my mill, so I can't really say. My gap is set to whatever a green Dunlop Tortex guitar pick is. I think it's 0.039

I do squeeze my bag pretty thoroughly, so I'm sure that accounts for why my efficiency is so high. I spin my bag until it is taught, then put it in a colander and press down on it while wearing a silicon oven mitt. At some point I'll probably get a cheese press and will multitask it for bag squeezing as well.

All Things Food / Re: dinner ideas
« on: October 14, 2014, 04:34:29 AM »
My go-to is Steak au Poivre. Flaming off the alcohol always looks cool (but can be scary as hell), and it's pretty simple.

Tangent - I've always meant to try this recipe with pork chops and cacao nibs instead of steak and peppercorn.

Beer Recipes / Re: double IPA
« on: October 14, 2014, 04:29:08 AM »
Change the grams to ounces and you should be OK  ;D

Seriously, though... less than 3 ounces in the whirlpool isn't going to cut it for a 5-gallon batch of IIPA. Two ounces per gallon is a good start. Having double the amount of dry hops vs whirlpool additions is backwards. If you hit the whirlpool hard, then you don't need a truckload of dry hops.

Grist and mash look good. Make sure you're in the 200-300ppm range for sulfate (or higher if you prefer).

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast starter time question
« on: October 14, 2014, 04:19:52 AM »
Grizzly Peak in Ann Arbor had a Pugsley system and would struggle with Diacetyl.

Hell, Shipyard still does...

All Grain Brewing / Re: Another BIAB thread
« on: October 14, 2014, 04:14:15 AM »
If you're going the BIAB route for simplicity and time-saving purposes, then you might as well ditch the sparge while you're at it. If you use all your liquor in your mash then it's like doing your mash and sparge all in one step. The mash is thin and you don't end up needing an extra rinse to get all those sugars. I'm right at 80-82% preboil efficiency this way. I've gotten as high as 85% (on a barleywine, no less) before I started milling in my own grain for consistency sake.

As an added bonus, the extra thermal mass of having all your water in one pot will help hold your mash temps even better.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Fermenter Sans Bubbling
« on: October 13, 2014, 11:15:48 PM »
I just don't care anymore. if I can't find an airlock on brew day I slap a piece of sanitized foil over the hole and call it good. i can generally smell that the fermentation is moving along nicely anyway.
+1 - I have a couple of lids that I never got around to installing grommets on. I just lay them over the top without sealing and call it a day.

The Pub / Re: Subliminal advertising
« on: October 13, 2014, 01:52:19 PM »
I'm all the time finding naked college chicks rolling around in my hops. Im glad a macro finally got some truth in advertising going
You keep them both in the freezer, too?

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast starter time question
« on: October 13, 2014, 02:52:32 AM »

AFAIK, Wyeast and others are around 1.020 for yeast propagation.  I try to keep to the low end, 1.030ish.


I chose 1.030 as a basic starter gravity because it strikes a balance between optimum cell growth conditions and and preparing the cells for the higher osmotic pressures encountered in fermentation. 

With that said, a 5% w/v solution (1.020 S.G.) is optimum for basic cell propagation because it provides enough nutrient for cell growth while placing low osmotic pressure on yeast cell walls.  It's also easier to dissolve oxygen in 1.020 wort than it is 1.040 wort.   The autoclaved 40ml first-level starters that I inoculate from slant are 1.020.

More good info. I've always used 1.020 starter wort for my first step when culturing bottle dregs because I thought it was a good idea. Glad to get some validation of that practice.

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