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Messages - erockrph

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31
Beer Recipes / Re: Pale Ale Question
« on: April 05, 2014, 08:17:05 PM »
Do you follow the above by switching hops in but following the same schedule and ratio?

Exactly. I target between 40-45 IBU in this recipe. All I change is the size of the first hop addition to get me in that 40-45 IBU range. The flameout hops are always 1/4 oz and the dry hops are 1/2 oz. Which means I end up using right around 1 oz per batch for most of the higher AA% hops.

When I do these, I usually do 6-8 batches one after another on one day. By sticking to the same hop schedule it also allows me to calibrate these batches to one another, so I can make a comparison on things like how big the hop aroma is and how coarse or smooth the bitterness appears to be.

32
Beer Recipes / Re: Pale Ale Question
« on: April 05, 2014, 07:14:36 PM »
I really don't have to do the 15 minute boil, but it makes my one gallon brew day a bit shorter.

Absolutely. If you're going through the time, might as well do a bigger batch, so that's understood. I think 15 minute boil/1 gallon batches are good for hop experimenting. I think erockrph does this often. Not saying that you should use 1 pound of hops in a 1 gallon batch like he does  ;), but he should certainly be able to give you some input.

Personally, I think the lack of dry hops is responsible for the majority of what you're missing. My 1-gallon APA recipes I use to taste-test hops use 1/2 oz of dry hops. I also add my first hop addition as a pseudo-FWH, which I think gives a bit more flavor. Basically, once you pull your steeping grains add your first hop addition. I treat it as a 20 minute addition for the sake of calculating IBU's and I think it gets me pretty close.

Here's my basic recipe:
Title: Single Hop Pale Ale (Apollo)

Brew Method: Extract
Style Name: American Pale Ale
Boil Time: 15 min
Batch Size: 0.8 gallons (fermentor volume)
Boil Size: 1 gallons

STATS:
Original Gravity: 1.055
Final Gravity: 1.015
ABV (standard): 5.21%
IBU (tinseth): 40.96
SRM (morey): 4.8

FERMENTABLES:
0.8 lb - Dry Malt Extract - Extra Light (72.7%)
0.3 lb - Liquid Malt Extract - Munich (27.3%)

HOPS:
0.15 oz - Apollo, Type: Pellet, AA: 18, Use: First Wort, IBU: 40.96
0.25 oz - Apollo, Type: Pellet, AA: 18, Use: Boil for 0 min
0.5 oz - Apollo, Type: Pellet, AA: 18, Use: Dry Hop for 7 days

OTHER INGREDIENTS:
0.8 g - Gypsum

YEAST:
Fermentis / Safale - American Ale Yeast US-05

NOTES:
Pitch 2-2.5gm of dry yeast.

Begin bringing water to boil. At ~120F add extract and gypsum. Add "FWH" as temp hits 140F.

33
Ingredients / Re: Don't try this at home
« on: April 05, 2014, 06:58:09 PM »
I've actually done this once before, but with whole hops. It was like cooking spinach, but with far less liquid. Unfortunately, even 6 months later it is still incredibly murky and pretty much undrinkable. It sort of looks like when you pour Guinness from a nitro faucet, but the head never separates. I'm not really sure what is keeping all the gunk in suspension, but it hasn't even started to drop out all this time later.

The flavor is much like raw hops - instead of the typical bitterness from dissolved iso-AA's in beer, you get a sharp herbal bitterness, and some coarse woodiness. It's as if there is a considerable amount of hop material in suspension and it gets dropped on your tongue with each sip.

I kind of had it in my head that I would be OK if I used pellets instead of cones at this hopping rate. Guess I was wrong. Aside from the sheer volume of hop solids, I suspect one of the reasons why this murk isn't dropping is that there's no way for cold break to congeal and pull additional solids out. Obviously, this isn't a free-flowing liquid as it cools. I have some Super Kleer KC laying around, so I'll probably give that a try unless by some miracle this happens to drop bright in primary.

And, just in case you were wondering why I would waste a pound of hops in such a spectacular way, I got this idea from another thread where Belma came up. I realized that I had absolutely zero plans to ever use the rest of the pound I bought last year (I actually had 17.5 oz left - HopsDirect packs a fat bag). I figured instead of letting them sit in the freezer forever I'd see if you could actually get some decent hop character if you use a whole lot of them.

By the way, the remaining 1.5 oz left after the pound that went in at flameout is going in as dry hops. You can't brew a beer like this and not dry-hop it, right?  ;D

34
Ingredients / Re: Two hops...
« on: April 05, 2014, 05:53:14 PM »
Just bought 4 oz. of each of these. Never tried the Cluster or First Gold before.
Next a sack of grain.
Cascade
Mt. Hood
Challenger
Sterling
Target
Cluster
First Gold

Challenger has become a recent favorite of mine and gets paired with EKGs in just about every English beer I brew. It has the typical earthy/marmalade UK hop profile, but I also get this cocoa butter/white chocolate note that is just awesome with an estery English yeast.

35
Ingredients / Don't try this at home
« on: April 04, 2014, 07:36:48 PM »
If you were ever wondering "how much hops is too much", I can say with certainty that 1 pound of hops in 0.8 gallons of wort is most definitely too much. Not necessarily from a flavor standpoint (time will tell), but from the simple physics of it.

Here's the wort right after the pound of hops went in at flameout. It was the consistancy of hot peanut butter:


Unfortunately, it only got thicker after chilling. This was the chilled wort in the kettle. You read that right, that chunky green stuff is wort:


Here's the squeezed-out liquid wort, right before pitching:


I'm not holding out high hopes for this one...

36
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Hop question
« on: April 04, 2014, 07:01:55 PM »
A) As long as you like Willamette, you should be fine adding it to your Pale Ale recipe

B) I'd mash really low as an insurance policy with that much Crystal malt.

C) How much is a "crap load" of Cascade and Willamette? If it were me, I'd leave the hop schedule as-is, but add an ounce of Willamette to the Cascade at flameout. Then dry hop with an ounce each of Cascade and Willamette.

37
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wild yeast harvesting
« on: April 04, 2014, 12:02:14 PM »
This is something I'm planning on trying soon, so I don't have first hand experience. Any place can work, but I have heard in several interviews that locations near fruit orchards tend to produce the best results. Alternatively, you could simply harvest bugs directly from untreated fruit. My plan is to harvest directly from various berries I growthat ripen in different months, to see what is in my area during different seasons.

This won't necessarily be sour, and not every wild bug produces a significant amount of acid as a byproduct. Heck, not every one produces alcohol, either. But a lot of these wild yeast would probably work best in blends with other bugs that do produce sour beer.

38
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Dry hopping
« on: April 04, 2014, 11:39:39 AM »
IIRC, there is also some change in flavor of the hops addition when there is yeast present. Again, some chemical reaction that I don't understand, but have read about. Others may be able to shed more light on this.

There is recent data (refer to Stan Heironymous's excellent "For the Love of Hops" for more details) that yeast metabolize some of the flavor and aroma compounds from hops and convert them to different substances. The specific changes depend on the yeast strain and hops. It's definitely not something you can make broad assumptions across the board. A lot of the compounds involved can be perceived in multiple ways depending on concentration, what other compounds are present in combination, as well as your own nose or palate.

Regarding the suggestion that yeast pull hop compounds out of solution, while that may be true to some extent, there is also some research showing that yeast actually increase the level of certain hop compounds. This is done by breaking down glycosides that some of these hop compounds are bound to. Again, the end result is something best judged by one's own palate.

In other words, there is no "right" way to do it. I add my dry hops right in primary while there is still a bit of yeast activity (usually day 7 of fermentation), and I am quite happy with my brews. I have yet to do a controlled test comparing a beer that has been dry-hopped in primary vs dry-hopped in secondary, but that's definitely in the plans for me.

39
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: cold crashing process
« on: April 04, 2014, 10:27:19 AM »
Thanks for the info. I have been doing all 5 gallon batches so far and have not had a yeast starter greater than 5 gallons. Wasn't sure if I should be cold crashing or not.

Do you use mostly DME when making the starter? I read that your starter should match the sugar profile of the wort as the yeast adapt to the environment of the starter, and if these environments are not the same, this can inhibit fermentation. If so, how do you determine what to make the starter with?

Just about everybody uses plain DME. I wouldn't recommend using simple sugar in your starter, even if you will end up using some in the finished beer. Saccharomyces strains shouldn't have any problems consuming simple sugars, so there's no need to get them accustomed to them in your starter.

40
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: A Yeast Hypothesis
« on: April 04, 2014, 05:22:12 AM »
I remember that East Coast Yeast has the 2 Ballantine strains available to the homebrewer, ECY 10 a and ECY 12.
http://eastcoastyeast.com/products---brewer-s-yeast.html

There is zero doubt in my mind that Al Buck obtained his cultures from the ARS NRRL.  The ARS NRRL collection contains many heirloom brewing cultures (e.g., Pabst Ale).  However, the ARS NRRL only ships to laboratories.

Just hearing the term "heirloom brewing cultures" whets my palate. This is the kind of stuff that got me into homebrewing in the first place - being able to work with ingredients that you just don't find in commercial brews. I'm not at the point where I'm ready to start yeast ranching, but between the seasonal strains from WL and Wyeast, and the wider availability of the smaller "boutique" labs like ECY and Gigayeast, I'm hoping we start seeing more of these heirloom cultures available to the homebrewer.

41
Equipment and Software / Re: Recipe designer software
« on: April 03, 2014, 09:19:27 PM »
I prefer to use an online calculator, so I can access everything whether I'm at home, work or on my smartphone. I've tried several apps, but I have been using Brewer's Friend pretty much exclusively for a couple of years now. There are frequent updates, loads of robust features, and the support (if you ever need it) is top-notch.

42
All Grain Brewing / Re: All flameout hops+whrilpool
« on: April 03, 2014, 12:17:07 PM »
Okay so it is mainly a flavor boost. It may be yeast metabolism that I'm confusing this change of character with.

Right, and that would explain the difference some have seen based on when they add their dry hop additions.

43
Ingredients / Re: What's your favorite maris otter...
« on: April 03, 2014, 10:32:37 AM »
My LHBS keeps Crisp on hand, and I like it a lot.

I haven't experimented with a lot of other maltsters, but I have a sack of Crisp right now and it is great stuff.

I really want to try the Warminster floor-malted MO sometime soon.

44
All Grain Brewing / Re: All flameout hops+whrilpool
« on: April 03, 2014, 10:24:03 AM »
I haven't noticed a difference in types of flavors/aromas depending on the time of the addition (on the hot side at least). But flameout additions give me a lot more flavor than an equivalent boil addition in my experience.

45
Equipment and Software / Re: brew nanny
« on: April 03, 2014, 08:30:27 AM »
I like the idea of not needing a hydro sample to monitor fermentation progress, but how would the CO2 monitor work if you're fermenting in a bucket? I have several that don't seal perfectly air-tight around the lid. Also, do they have a bucket and better bottle adapter? And how long is the probe? I brew 3-gallons in 6-6.5 gallon buckets and carboys pretty often, so I'd need the probe to get all the way to the beer in the fermenter.


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