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Messages - erockrph

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When I mentioned evaporation from boiling, I was mainly referencing the boiling of the wort.  And I don't necessarily want to minimize evaporation, rather, I want to ensure that the conservation of energy is maximized.  so if water evaporates, it is captured and utilized somewhere else in the system.
Understood, and to be clear I was referring to boiling the wort as well.

Sounds like a neat project, even if it is mainly a thought experiment.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Cold-brew coffee on tap?
« on: June 14, 2016, 10:21:54 AM »
Yeah, if you have a keg that seals really well I'd use the bare minimum to pour, and vent the keg every day. Of course Starbucks has gone Guinness with their iced coffee and is serving it on nitro now.  :)

That's been around on the West Coast for a while. Not sure where it started, but I'd assume Portland, Seattle, or San Francisco.

Edit - i gave it a search and it looks like it started in Austin. Basically the Texas equivalent of the three above cities. It's available in cans out here as well.
Cool, I had seen that around town but didn't realize it started out here in Austin. Yeah, The creamy mouthfeel from nitro really works well with cold brewed coffee. I've noticed people who tend to "doctor" their coffee with a lot of cream and sugar use way less (or none at all) when it's served on nitro.
I haven't tried nitro coffee, but it doesn't sound like my cup of tea joe. I like my coffee black, especially iced coffee. It's just more refreshing that way, IMO.

I've seen recommendations to use beer gas mix for wine draft systems, but I think that is because there is still residual CO2 in the wine so a small pressure of CO2 is appropriate. Maybe something like pure argon would be a better choice for coffee.

It's hard to ask questions about your system without knowing the basics of what it does and how it works. Knowing what it doesn't do isn't a huge help.

As far as the "considerable loss of liquid due to evaporation" thing - that is an important part of the brewing process, both to concentrate the sugars extracted in the mash and to drive off undesirable compounds like SMM. I don't know how your system works, but it would actually be less efficient on ingredients (more grain and hops required) without a decent boiloff.

Ingredients / Re: Valley Malt
« on: June 14, 2016, 07:49:02 AM »
The Chocolate Maize and Malted Maize would probably make for a very interesting Schwarz-cream Ale. Wheat + biscuit + vienna sounds like a nice ESB base to me.

Kegging and Bottling / Cold-brew coffee on tap?
« on: June 14, 2016, 07:27:55 AM »
Has anyone here ever kegged iced coffee? With the summer just about here, I'm trying to keep my iced coffee expenditures down. I've been brewing my own cold-brew to try to bypass the drive-thru in the morning, but if I don't get a chance to make the next day's batch as soon as I get home from work it isn't ready for the next morning.

I was thinking of making a gallon or two at a time and keeping it in a keg so I always have coffee available. My biggest concern is that I only have CO2 gas to push it, and I don't want coffee soda. Can I just unhook the gas and open the PRV until it stops hissing, or will that still leave enough CO2 in the headspace to dissolve in the coffee a bit?

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: rolling boil?
« on: June 13, 2016, 11:45:46 AM »
Didn't notice that. I've been avoiding fermcap-s due to the manufacture notes saying it should be filtered out. I've never been able to source fermcap-at which does not require filtering in small amounts.

Fermcap needs to be filtered?
Not exactly. As a food additive FDA requires less than 10ppm concentration in food packaged for sale. For a pro brewer, filtering would assure that without needing to test its concentration.

For a homebrewer there is absolutely zero concern. It is the same ingredient as the active ingredient in Gas-X, and present in way lower amounts in beer when used as recommended. In all likelihood, it is all falling out in the trub, anyways. Plus, the stuff is completely innocuous. Your body doesn't absorb it and it passes right through you.

I'm wondering if you need a specific yeast strain to see the benefits. Since 34/70 is so clean at higher temps anyways, it might not be the best choice. Maybe a more finicky lager strain would give a bigger delta? One suggestion would be the Budweiser strain (WY2007). I know it is still pretty clean even fermented close to 60F, but if any strain is being used under pressure commercially, I would guess that this is one of them.

Another one is White Labs WLP925 High Pressure Lager Yeast, which is up for order in the Yeast Vault ( I wonder if this would give a more notable difference.

If you use an HDPE jerry can (AKA "cube") you will be fine. You can dunk it into a bin full of water to cool it. Make sure the cap is on tight. I have used plate chillers and immersion chillers and I have now settled on this approach. The wort will be sterile in the sealed container. Just wait till it is at pitching temp, then pitch. I have done dozens of batches like this now with results as good as if not better than using a wort chiller. Save yourself water and time, keep it simple.
Not to nitpick, but boiled wort isn't sterile. Boiling temps are not high enough to kill Clostridium botulinum (aka, botulism) spores. I'm not discounting that many brewers use no-chill and I have yet to hear of any reports of botulism, but if we're talking no-chill then I think that point needs to be made so everyone can decide for themselves if they are willing to accept that level of risk.

Other Fermentables / Re: Cigary cider
« on: June 12, 2016, 08:46:13 AM »
Being Belgian I wouldn't use anything I wouldn't put in a fruit lambic, so no pineapple, sorry.
I dunno, pineapple lambic sounds like it has potential to me. Brett brux can get pretty pineapple-y.

Other Fermentables / Re: Cigary cider
« on: June 11, 2016, 09:43:44 PM »
Cranberry is my favorite. Blackberries work very well, too. They both bring some tannins and acidity as well, so it helps to add some depth to the cider as well.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

I have a 2-basin sink that is mounted under the counter with a removable faucet. I put my kettle in one basin that is filled with water, then stick the faucet in the basin pointed at the kettle, and run cold tap water into that basin continuously. The warmer water flows away over the top into the second basin and drains from there.

This works under the same premise as an immersion chiller, but is a little slower since it has a lower surface area. Still, for my batch sizes it gets me down to pitching temps in about 30-45 minutes. I'd like it to be a little quicker, but I've honestly never had any issues and still get a good cold break. I'm not sure what your home setup is, but this works decently well for a small-batch/kitchen brewer.

Beer Recipes / Re: IPA Hop Schedule
« on: June 10, 2016, 06:16:28 PM »
I find Trillium's IPAs to be really soft on the bitterness. I wouldn't add any gypsum and rely on Calcium Chloride only for water additions. Definitely keep the IBUs to 60 or less. And load up the dry hops (8oz like you were planning sounds good).

And I'm with Jon that you should wait until at least 170F before adding your whirlpool addition.

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Giving up the glass
« on: June 10, 2016, 06:11:28 PM »
I only have one glass carboy, and I rarely use it, but I wouldn't think of moving it without a brew hauler on it. I'd you're using glass, you really need to use some protection or you're taking your health in your hands.

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The Pub / Re: Live, from the NHC
« on: June 10, 2016, 11:36:39 AM »
I've heard the reports on the forums and podcasts, but damn Drew you're in great shape.

Wish I could be there with everyone. Hopefully NHC makes it up to New England sometime in the next few years.

Beer Recipes / Re: IPA Hop Schedule
« on: June 10, 2016, 11:21:49 AM »
I'd move the 5 and 10 minute additions to whirlpool and make any IBU adjustments necessary. I'm not opposed to those additions in general but you get less out of them in this kind of beer.
Agreed. I also agree with Jon that a NE style IPA needs a big dry hop addition to give you that blast of hop aroma and hop oil haze that you're looking for.

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