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Messages - erockrph

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871
The Pub / Re: in trouble again :(
« on: February 14, 2016, 07:23:19 PM »
As far as rousing goes, it will help ensure that flocculent yeast stay in suspension longer to ensure it finishes up fully. I don't know how that would factor into a speed fermentation, but it certainly helps with diacetyl producing yeast like 1968.

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872
The Pub / Re: in trouble again :(
« on: February 14, 2016, 07:19:23 PM »
You actually warm it to like 120F for 10-15 minutes while covered. What happens is any diacetyl precursors still left in the beer are converted to diacetyl, and you will be able to smell it in the heated sample. If its clean, then you know that the yeast won't be creating more diacetyl over time.

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873
All Grain Brewing / Re: water to grain ratio
« on: February 14, 2016, 07:01:17 PM »
You guys just rocked my world.  For 17 years I have been using 1.25 ratio and have been getting a mash efficiency between 94-98%. Then 5.5 gl of sparge water for a 5 gallon batch.  Ferment in a 6 gallon carboy.  Perhaps I'll bump up the mash water and lose some of the sparge water.
FWIW, I use anywhere from 3-3.5 qt/gallon in my beers (BIAB/no-sparge) with no issues to speak of.
Those are small gallons!  8)
Lol qt/lb obviously :)

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874
All Grain Brewing / Re: water to grain ratio
« on: February 14, 2016, 12:58:31 PM »
You guys just rocked my world.  For 17 years I have been using 1.25 ratio and have been getting a mash efficiency between 94-98%. Then 5.5 gl of sparge water for a 5 gallon batch.  Ferment in a 6 gallon carboy.  Perhaps I'll bump up the mash water and lose some of the sparge water.
FWIW, I use anywhere from 3-3.5 qt/gallon in my beers (BIAB/no-sparge) with no issues to speak of.

875
Beer Recipes / Re: american wheat
« on: February 14, 2016, 12:56:14 PM »
What does torrified wheat bring to the party?
I use it in many English-style ales. It has a bit of a nuttiness, and like any unmalted wheat product, it boosts the head formation quite a bit. Since traditional English ales contain a significant amount of simple sugar, that is certainly helpful.

876
The Pub / Re: in trouble again :(
« on: February 14, 2016, 11:39:33 AM »
I would look at yeast strain and fermentation temp scheme to address  your diacetyl.
I agree with this. Pick a low D producer that flocs quickly and rouse often as you bump the temps. You should probably incorporate a forced diacetyl test before you cold crash as well to ensure that you won't run into issues down the line.

877
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 2016 Spring Swap
« on: February 14, 2016, 10:35:57 AM »
Condolences to you and your family, Jim.

878
The Pub / Re: Whiskey
« on: February 14, 2016, 09:03:39 AM »
I had a Bowmore 15 The Darkest the other night and it was very nice.
I've never had a bad whisky from Bowmore, but the Darkest might be my favorite of theirs. Good stuff.

879
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What BJCP Category - Dark Belgian Witbier
« on: February 14, 2016, 08:55:14 AM »
I don't have any specific input on the category, but that sounds like a Wit that I might actually be interested in trying. It sounds like the Witbier equivalent of a Dunkelweizen.

880
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Picnic taps
« on: February 14, 2016, 08:52:26 AM »
If I'm iffy on how long the beer has been sitting in the line since the last pour (i.e., more than a couple days), then I'll just dump the first few ounces.

If the post and disconnect get sticky, I spritz them with a bit of Star San to rinse off the gunk. It's not a cure-all, but it usually helps enough until I can give them a proper cleaning.

881
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What's Brewing this Weekend? 01/18/2014
« on: February 14, 2016, 08:35:20 AM »
I just dumped a hard cider that never came around.
That's funny, I nearly dumped a hard cider that DID come around a few days back because I never relabeled the keg from "Star San" to "Cider". I thought I had dumped it last summer. It was a happy surprise, except now I need to scrounge up another keg for my American Lager...

882
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 2016 Spring Swap
« on: February 14, 2016, 08:25:02 AM »
I don't even have time to bottle and keg. Sorry.
Similar situation here. Between the OT and night shifts at work, and all my son's afterschool activities right now (who starts a Sunday indoor soccer league during the NFL playoffs??? It couldn't wait until February?), I'm lucky if I can even get my one beer ready for NHC. Sorry.

883
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: AHA Yeast Starter Video
« on: February 13, 2016, 11:48:11 AM »
Heck, I don't even boil my starters...

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884
The Pub / Re: Whiskey
« on: February 12, 2016, 06:33:30 PM »
Got Four Roses Single Barrel, Knob Creek (my standby), 12 yr DoubleWood, and Glenmorangie 12 yr Sherry Wood on hand at moment. Not bad (or damn good). As my Grandpa used to say, "Cold enough to freeze a well digger's a$$".  ;D


Edit -  He was really smart.
Your grandpa was definitely on to something :) It's colder than a witch's t!t up my way, and I'm fighting a head cold. Might need to hit grampa's ol' cough medicine tonight, myself. I want scotch, but I'm afraid I'll wake up with peaty cotton mouth. Might be a Johnny Gold kinda night...

885
Beer Recipes / Re: First Sour
« on: February 12, 2016, 06:29:04 PM »
A mild should be fine. A 1.035 mild will end up at 4.5ish ABV. Just keep the IBU's low on the beer you want to use for your sour so you don't inhibit the lacto.

In the past I've done a split saison/sour batch, where I made one main all-grain batch that was as large as my equipment allowed. The two recipes weren't exactly the same, so I topped off the sour with some concentrated extract wort to boost the OG and diluted the saison with lower-gravity hopped wort to boost the IBU's. So if your recipe is close but not exactly where you want it, you can always top off with a little extract wort to hit the exact numbers you are looking for.
No lacto in this AFAIK. The 1.035= 4.5'ish you mentioned....oddly enough in BeerSmith, I am planning a 1.036 OG Mild, but this is showing 3.4% ABV  ???
That is right for the Mild, but the sour will finish close to 1.000 and end up at a higher ABV than a typical Sacc ferment. A sour would typically end up with 1-2% extra ABV than a non-wild beer at the same OG because of the extra attenuation.

I haven't used JP dregs yet, so I'm not sure what the bugs are. But if the beer you are pitching from is actually sour (as opposed to just Brett/funk), then there is a good chance that there is some lactobacillus in the culture.

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