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Messages - erockrph

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Flashback Brewday
« on: November 05, 2014, 06:12:17 AM »
Mine was an extract w/steeping grains clone kit of Otter Creek Copper Ale from Austin Homebrew Supply using Nottingham yeast. My big mistakes were going the wrong way with my temperature ramping (pitched at 68, then brought it down to 60F after 3 days), and using the whole 5oz of corn sugar to prime. I ended up with an overcarbonated butter bomb.

I don't think I'd ever rebrew that kit specifically, because I don't think it's a good clone, but I would definitely take a stab at brewing my own clone armed with my current brewing knowledge and past experience.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Smoke Malt % in a IIPA
« on: November 04, 2014, 05:41:21 PM »
Well, if that's the case what about try smoking the hops on a cold smoker?

That's a thought for sure. I've had some people suggest scorching the hops in another vessel and adding to the bk. I'm just trying to consider the most repeatable scenario.
Who knows, maybe I'll place a stainless plate under my spider and repeat the last brew day without having to clean the scorched material from the bottom of the kettle.
It truly is amazing how well this beer has aged and the flavors meld together. I really expected to eventually toss it all, now I want to brew it again.
It's not what I would really consider an IIPA because there is basically no aroma but the bitterness is there then the sweetness of the caramel malts come through with just a hint of smokiness.
I'm wondering if any reactions happened between the hop oils and the hot wort. If you try scorching some hops I'd do it in a low gravity wort. Then you could collect it, cold crash it for a couple days, then run it through a coffee filter to try to get all the scorched bits out. I'd add it to the kettle at flameout.

Personally, I would drop the torrefied and use an extra lb of base malt. The oatmeal is obviously integral and will provide plenty of mouthfeel in addition. I would also drop the brown and sub in chocolate in the same amount. And Maris Otter is fairly toasty/biscuity on its own so I would drop the Victory`which is biscuity and sub in .75 lb more of your base malt. That is a streamlined recipe now which is pretty similar to mine. By no means am I saying that your recipe couldn't be good, but sometimes too many malts can give you a 'muddy' poorly defined malt character. Good luck !
I agree with most of this, except I'd probably keep the torrified wheat. Torrified wheat has a nice nutty flavor that I personally like in many of my English-style ales.

I think the takeaway is to know what each ingredient is doing in a recipe and pare down anything that doesn't have a clear purpose. For me, I'd be including torrified wheat as a flavor component. But if you're using it for mouthfeel and not flavor, then the oats have you covered and you can get rid of it.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Artificial Oxygenation
« on: November 03, 2014, 10:24:41 PM »
Hydrogen peroxide releases oxygen too, but "O" not "O2".  Can yeast digest O?
Not exactly, but O· can probably digest yeast pretty well...

2 KClO3(s) → 3 O2(g) + 2 KCl(s) (per Wikipedia) is the reaction gone to completion.  However, based on Wikipedia it sounds like the reaction would evolve oxygen over time not just when you need it. Also lots of bad things can happen like using pure oxygen.
Yeah, K Chlorate sounds like nasty stuff to deal with. But if you can manage it safely then it may be ok for starters or maybe something like a high gravity mead, where you're introducing oxygen over an extended period of time at the beginning of fermentation.

Since I'm teaching new brewers to START with BIAB instead of extract and grains, I agree with the idea of it being a simple way to start. But I keep chuckling inwardly about the "small batch" notion. I teach 5 gallon batches on a propane burner, but why not 500 liters?
What I mean by "for small batches" is that for 3 gallon batches or smaller no propane burner is necessary. You can brew on your stovetop using all the same equipment as partial-boil extract batches. For kitchen/apartment brewers, 3 gallon BIAB may be the only reasonable way to brew all-grain.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Homebrew Suppliers
« on: November 03, 2014, 04:40:32 PM »
A Google search would yield plenty of options.

Adventure in homebrewing
Austin Homebrew
Rebel brewer
Northern brewer/Midwest supplies
Plus countless others that sell equipment only
+1 - I use each of these sites pretty regularly and they are all very good.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Beer classification
« on: November 03, 2014, 01:38:48 PM »
Don't go by how you made it, go by what it tastes like. Do you know any judges with a good palate? Let them sample some but don't give them any information at all about it. Then ask them what category they think it would score highest in.

Will BIAB displace batch sparging as the method of choice for new brewers?

I don't think it's displacing batch sparging, I think it's displacing brewing with extract and steeped grains.  It just makes all grain brewing more accessible and gives it a higher "wife acceptance factor".
I think that's an excellent point. BIAB definitely makes it easier for an extract brewer to make the jump to all-grain, especially if you're OK with brewing smaller batch sizes.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Smoke Malt % in a IIPA
« on: November 03, 2014, 07:54:24 AM »
IIPA's aren't meant for aging. I'd just target an American Barleywine to start.

As far as the smoke malt goes, personally I'm not a big fan except at really low levels in a porter. But even despite my prejudice, I can't think of a worse style to add rauchmalz to than IIPA.

My suggestion would be to brew it as an American Barleywine, and maybe use oak instead of smoke if you want a little extra complexity. That really seems like a scenario that will stand up to aging a lot better than a Rauch IIPA.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast Generation Count from a Starter
« on: November 03, 2014, 06:41:33 AM »
A friend of mine who worked at Harpoon said they go 50 gens on their yeast but of course they do heavy lab work. I generally go 5-7 maybe 10. It is easy to see when the yeast start to act differently. The first thing I notice is a difficulty to clear the beer even after fining.

They've also more than likely selected an isolate that remains relatively stable under their brewing conditions.  I have that culture on slant.  I plated it from a bottle of Harpoon UFO.  It's in the culture tube labeled "HAR" in the photo shown below.
Are you sure the UFO strain is the same as their core beers? Their core beers taste like London Ale to me, but I've always suspected that the UFO line was a different strain.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Accidentally froze yeast
« on: November 02, 2014, 08:39:03 PM »
No guarantee, but if the yeast wasn't frozen solid I think you should be OK. I have had smack packs get a little slushy on my doorstep in the winter but the yeast always worked fine.

Equipment and Software / Re: Laminar Flow Hood for home yeast lab
« on: November 02, 2014, 06:31:21 AM »
Thanks for all the replies. My biggest concern with this is, was it something that could be used in dealing with yeast handling. I wanted to verify that it was the proper tool and wouldn't be blowing "stuff" into my collections.
This is indeed the proper tool for maintaining a sterile environment, if it is properly used and maintained. If improperly used, it is no better than working in the open air. I would highly suggest investing in some training.
Ay recommendations on where to find training for this tool?
I can't really think of any reference I've run across outside of on-the-job training in a hospital or some other facility that performs sterile compounding.

Some key points to consider:

A LFH blower fan should be kept on 24/7 whenever possible. If it is turned off it should be run a minimum of 30 minutes before using.

Be careful not to block the airflow over the work area.

A LFH does nothing about touch contamination. I'd strongly recommend wearing sterile gloves and a surgical mask at a minimum when working in the hood. Proper aseptic technique is a must.

A LFH will only provide a benefit if your technique is otherwise flawless.

Equipment and Software / Re: Better Bottles and Fermawraps
« on: November 01, 2014, 10:28:55 PM »
I don't use fermawrap, but I have used my Brew Belt with my BB's with no issue.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Will it work?
« on: November 01, 2014, 09:05:48 PM »
Maybe others can chime in, but I feel like 3 qt/lb will dilute the enzymes a bit too much and that could result in a lower efficiency. Not 100% sure on that, though.

I also feel like 68% efficiency is a bit hopeful for no-sparge BIAB.
That's about my average mash thickness for my no sparge BIAB batches and I hit 80-82% kettle efficiency like clockwork. Three quarts per pound is perfectly fine. In my experience you don't start running into problems until you get close to 4 qt/lb.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WLP007 for Pliny the Elder?
« on: November 01, 2014, 06:21:51 AM »
I believe Mitch Steele has said in a few interviews that they don't use one of the commercially available yeast strains, but a dry English ale strain should get you close.

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