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Messages - erockrph

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901
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: AHA App Survey
« on: January 27, 2016, 06:15:48 PM »
Done and done

902
Dave, I'm curious to see what you find with that experiment. I feel pretty confident that you'd find a difference between the extremes, but the real question becomes whether there's a "sweet spot" that produces the best results, and what the delta in efficiency needs to be to reliably detect a difference between samples. Also, at the extremes you need to be careful that any difference is attributable to the difference in efficiency itself rather than from changes in process needed to get those efficiencies.

903
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Anyone use Iodophor for cleaning?
« on: January 27, 2016, 11:06:29 AM »
I have access to 10% povidone-iodine solution.  How is this different?  Can it be used in a similar manner to iodophor?  On the package it states that it has 1% titratable iodine.  Inactive ingredients are listed as citric acid, disodium phosphate, nontoxynol-9 and sodium hydroxide.

Fun fact, nonoxynol-9 is a spermicide. If you don't want your beer getting pregnant, I'd go with your povidone.

904
The Pub / Re: Whiskey
« on: January 26, 2016, 10:27:15 PM »
Laphroaig 10 is my go-to as well. Caol Ila is another great one if you're into peat.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
Caol Ila? I never heard of it or have seen it as far as I know. Is it an Islay?
Yep. After the three distilleries on the southern coast of Islay (Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg), it's probably the next peatiest. The other Islay distilleries (Bowmore, Bunnahabhain and Bruichladdich) tend to be lower on peat, although still a fair amount compared to Highland whiskies.

Scapa 16 year is another overlooked Scotch that is similar in style to the Islay distilleries.

905
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Fuggles anyone?
« on: January 26, 2016, 09:29:20 PM »



Hey, we have our hops we all love to hate.
Denny=Fuggles
Mrs R = Simcoe
Me = Nelson Sauvin.
I call dibs on Summit


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906
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Off Color Causes
« on: January 25, 2016, 02:57:33 PM »
I've had a couple of very light colored beers end up a bit green with too much hop garbage left in the brew.  That doesn't sound like the issue you saw though.

Paul
Same here on the über hoppy IPAs on occasion, but I don't think that is the case here.

I wonder if it's related to the haze. It would be interesting to see what it looked like after they fined it.

907
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: what temp does beer freeze?
« on: January 25, 2016, 02:50:48 PM »
what does everyone shoot for as the final lager/cold crash temp?  i set my freezer to -1C.
I lager at 30F. -1C is 30.2F. Close enough.
Same here. It gives a little wiggle room in case your controller overshoots by a degree or two.

908
The Pub / Re: Whiskey
« on: January 23, 2016, 09:20:20 PM »
Laphroaig 10 is my go-to as well. Caol Ila is another great one if you're into peat.

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909
All Grain Brewing / Re: 1 gallon batches
« on: January 23, 2016, 09:00:25 PM »
The bag squeezing myth refuses to die. Squeezing the hell out of the bag does no harm to your wort. The idea that a small increase in pressure imparted on wort soaked grains will induce tannin formation is bollocks.
I will add the caveat that it depends on your bag. Something with a coarse weave might pass some husk material through if you squeeze it excessively. But a fine mesh bag like a voile BIAB bag isn't going to be an issue.

910
Beer Recipes / Re: Citrus IPA Recipe?
« on: January 22, 2016, 06:36:54 PM »
I use a similar amount of hops in 3 gallons of IPA, so no - I do not think that is too much hops. But if it were me, I'd take everything between 60 minutes and the end of the boil and move them to the whirlpool. That will give you the best bang for your buck.

As far as the IBU's go, your perception of bitterness maxes out between 60 and 80 IBU's, so really don't waste your time worrying about your IBU's on a big IPA. Anything over 70 or so might as well read "MAX". Just focus on your flavor and aroma and you'll be fine.

911
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Single Hop IPAs
« on: January 22, 2016, 06:29:36 PM »
Nothing wrong with a good Caucasian, Frank :)

I'm not a big fan of single-hopped IPA's - I prefer a little more complexity. Having said that, I'd put Meridian, Galaxy and Enigma on my short list if I had to brew one. Nelson Sauvin might be a good choice as well. Nelson might be something to look in to if you were thinking of doing a single-hopped Cascade IPA. I get a lot of the same grapefruit character from Nelson that I do from Cascade, but it is more potent and also has a nice vinous character that adds some depth.

912
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Getting The Hoppy Into The IPA
« on: January 22, 2016, 06:24:38 PM »
Whirlpool hops are definitely where the best bang for the buck is on flavor. For non-IPA's, I follow Jon's method - target all my IBU's from a 60-minute addition, then whirlpool at 170F for flavor and some aroma. This lets you treat bittering and flavor/aroma additions separately without worrying about how many IBU's you might be getting from your late hops.

For IPA's, the actual IBU's don't really matter. The perception of bitterness maxes out in the 60-80 IBU range, and no matter what the calculators are telling you, you won't get much more than 100 measured IBU's in a beer due to solubility, as well as how much the yeast pulls out of solution. In other words, there's no reason to worry about overshooting your IBU's because there's not going to be a noticeable difference between a 70 IBU beer and one that calculates to 500 IBU. I sent an IPA in that calculated to 480 IBU and it came back at 98 IBU measured from the lab.

So, for IPA's, I start my whirlpool right at flameout and don't start to chill for 60-90 minutes. I'll get more than enough IBU's at that temp, and I do think I am getting more flavor out of the long, hot whirlpool than I do at 170F. But the 4oz/gallon hopping rate probably has something to do with that as well  ;D

913
The Pub / Re: Chocolate stash
« on: January 22, 2016, 11:04:27 AM »
I am chocolate ignorant. But, I would like to impress my wife. What do you recommend?
There's a pretty broad range out there. I pretty much stick to plain dark chocolate bars, so I don't have a lot of recommendations for milk chocolate, or bars that have fillings or additives. To me, those are more of a snack rather than something to savor.

Most of the bars in that picture are favorites of mine. The Amedei Chuao is by far the best chocolate I've ever had. It has a great acidity that brings out all sorts of fruit notes, with earthy, nutty and coffee notes to back it up. It's about $15 a bar, but worth every penny if you're a connoisseur. If you're into bitter and you want to get adventurous, Domori's "Il 100%" is my favorite 100% cacao bar. It is amazing the complexity you can get off of pure cacao.

Waialua Estate is another one of my favorites. It is 100% American from bean-to-bar: the cacao is grown on Dole's plantation in Hawaii and the bar is made by Guittard. The volcanic soil terroir makes for a distinct flavor profile. The Pralus Cuba may not be the most complex dark chocolate, but it is addictively snackable. It is made from Trinitario beans rather than Criollo. There are three types of cacao beans - Criollo is the top quality, akin to Arabica coffee beans, Forastero is for mass-production and equivalent to Robusto coffee, and Trinitario is a hybrid between the two both literally and in quality of flavor. Pralus tends to go heavier on the roast than other chocolate makers, and that brings out nice peanut butter and espresso flavors in the Trinitario beans, and that makes for a poundable dark chocolate. It also, quite fittingly, makes an excellent pairing with Cuban-style coffee.

If you're not sure how dark you like it, Lindt does a series of chocolate bars starting at 50% and going all the way up to 99%. It makes for a nice flight, especially if you're just starting to get into chocolate. Once you get into it, several manufacturers have single-origin bars so you can get a feel for what chocolate from different countries and regions taste like. I believe Pralus sells some as a sampler of tasting squares so you could do a bunch side-by-side without breaking the bank. The best cacao primarily comes from Venezuela, and the region of Chuao produces the best-of-the-best. I'm also partial to Madagascan chocolate - it has a bright acidity that often comes off as lemonade and/or fresh red raspberries.

You may have to order online to find most of these, but you'll rarely go wrong with these brands:
Domori
Amedei
Pralus
Michel Cluizel
Bonnat
Patric
Amano

Scharffen Berger, Lake Champlain and Lindt may be easier to find and aren't half bad for starters. The Scharffen Berger 70% and the Lake Champlain Sao Thome are excellent starters.

914
Ingredients / Re: Cacao Nibs - taking suggestions
« on: January 22, 2016, 09:23:32 AM »
Malty English brown could be a nice vehicle for it.
I like that idea. I've got a brown ale planned. Another thought is that I was planning to use the cake from the brown ale to grow up a couple of generations then finish with an English Barleywine. A nice rich barleywine might be pretty nice aged over some nibs.

915
Kegging and Bottling / Re: ultrafast forced carbonation
« on: January 22, 2016, 09:11:56 AM »
Do you have access to a paint shaker? If the beer is ice-cold and you have the keg upside down (or hook up the gas to the out post so it bubbles up through the beer), then you might be able to do it at safe PSI's (or kPa if that's your thing over there) under constant agitation. But that's just a guess. No clue what pressure you would need to be on target at half an hour.

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