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Messages - erockrph

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Our first collaborative xBmt with House Of Pendragon Brewing is in the books! We tackled one of the most commonly requested variables, the step mash, and had over 120 people participate in the evaluation. Results are in!

First of all, excellent experiment.  I love the big turnout and significance of the results.  That said... ;)

Methinks it could be more a total mash time thing (105/90 minutes steps vs. 80/60 single, with/without mashout times included) than an actual difference between mashing processes.  Or maybe a bit of both.  I have this theory (or isn't it fact?!) that enzymes work at any temperatures until they get denatured.  So all that time at 113 and 131 F for the step mash beer?  Yeah, the alphas and betas are chugging along nicely for a whole hour, and then later for another 30-45 minutes again at higher temps.  Compare that with just 60-80 total and there likely could be a difference from the total time, not just the process.  That's my thoughts on this.  More than one variable so it's tough to nail down exactly why there's a difference.

But, good to know that regardless of variables, the mashing process or time or both probably do make differences.  Makes sense.
I had a very similar thought, Dave. While I wouldn't necessarily say that the Alpha and Beta are "chugging along nicely" at the lower temps, they are certainly active. I also think modern malt is so hot with enzymes, that even if they're crawling along they can certainly make a significant impact on wort production, just because there is so much enzyme floating around.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: My latest peeve....
« on: April 04, 2016, 01:14:38 AM »
Except floral is literally the same compounds in hops as those found in almost all common flowers (Geraniol=geraniums&roses, Nerol=roses, Linalool=lavender)* 

And drive to home depot and stick your finger in potting soil and voila, earthy.

I disagree to an extent here. You can't isolate a single chemical or small group of chemicals and say that "this is floral" or "this is rose". For example, I get more fruit and wood from geraniol than floral. It is really close to lemon Pledge to my nose. (Yes, I have pure geraniol at home). Aroma is a pretty complex combination of components at varying amounts - too much to try to narrow it down like that.

Back to the "juicy" descriptor, I think it's a relatively good descriptor as marketing buzzwords go. Personally, I only refer to "juicy mouthfeel" when describing beer. I think that's pretty clear. With the exception of astringent fruits like cranberries and pomegranate, almost every juice leaves a coating mouthfeel with a slight slickness and a bit of mouthwatering acidity.

The Pub / Re: What's the Weather Like Where You Are?
« on: April 03, 2016, 03:24:54 PM »
Guess I won't be planting those hop rhizomes today. Woke up to about 5 inches of snow with more to come tomorrow. You're a little late, Winter...  :-\

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: S-04
« on: April 03, 2016, 03:59:25 AM »
I get that bready note from S04 as well, so I reserve it for darker styles like porters and brown ales, where it blends in just fine. I don't like it in paler beers like bitters, because I find the bready note to be distracting.

I don't get the comment about Fullers being bland, though. It is my preferred English ale strain because I think it has loads of character. WLP013 is another nice one.

Beer Recipes / Re: Test #2
« on: April 02, 2016, 06:35:41 PM »
I haven't used it as a "relief pitcher", so I don't know if it works a little bit differently, but make sure you give the 3711 about a week longer than you think it needs. It tends to chew those last 3 gravity points rather slowly.

I've gotten diacetyl in bottle-conditioned ales, so I'm leaning towards no on this one. Krausening involves pitching a robust culture at peak activity, rather than spoon feeding some dormant yeast.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 2016 Spring Swap - Official Thread
« on: April 02, 2016, 02:32:03 PM »
Packaging now Amanda. Ship out Monday .


I like those neck wraps. Are those intended for wine bottles, or do you have some beer-specific ones?

Yeast and Fermentation / S-189
« on: April 02, 2016, 02:27:37 PM »
I just tapped my first lager using S-189, and I'm not sure what I think of it yet. The fermentation character reminds me more of WY2007 than the German lager strains I've used. I don't know if it's low sulfur or something else, but it's lacking the fermentation character that I seem to get from something like 34/70. That on its own isn't necessarily a bad thing, just different.

What I'm not so sure on is this flavor I'm getting the really reminds me of sake for some reason. It's not quite hot, or sweet, or fruity, but some combination of the three. I don't think it's estery, but maybe it's a low fusel note. It's a low note, but it was unexpected for me. I haven't decided whether I'm OK with it or not yet. I'll come back to it in a week or so and reassess.

This was my challenge extract beer, so I decided to go low-tech on fermentation. I let this run at ambient in my basement (mid 50's). Maybe that's too high for this strain? Any thoughts from someone who has used this yeast? Has anyone gotten this fermentation character before?

3 gallon Recipe FWIW:
3lb Pilsen DME
8oz Munich LME
4oz CaraFoam
20 IBU Hallertau mf @60 min

1.049 OG, 1.010 FG

I brew 3 gallons into the fermenter and 2.5 into the keg. I love this batch size. I am always sad when a keg kicks but it happens fast enough I get to brew at least once per month. I actually run fairly often because I give away beer to friends.  I kind of like running out though.
Same here.

I am the only one who drinks in my house, and it is usually only 4 or 5 beverages a week. If I have time to relax after the family and house is taken care of, then I'll settle down with a beer/mead/whiskey/sake/etc. The smaller batch size let's me brew 1-2 times a month without drowning in extra beer I can't drink. Plus, I like to experiment, so it doesn't bother me to dump a couple of gallons of beer that I don't want to drink.

Another advantage is that I can brew all-grain batches on the kitchen stove at this smaller size. No need to brew outside for me. I have heat in the winter, AC in the summer, and no need for pants ;)

This thread reminds me that I should check in on the Helles I have lagering. Well, I call it a Helles, but I have no idea whether Briess decocts their extract....

As crushable as the pale German beers are, my danger zone is when their darker cousins Märzen and Dunkel show up. The highlight of my trip to Disney last week may just be the liter of Warsteiner Dunkel at the Biergarten buffet.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

The Pub / Re: this is the scariest thing you will see today
« on: April 01, 2016, 05:30:46 PM »
That's pretty good. Do the Belgians really think of sours as chick beers?

I've gotten a few good ones in my inbox today:

MoreBeer's BeerBit:!+Campaign

I actually fell for this headline before I realized what day it was (hadn't finished my coffee yet):

Hop Growing / Re: 2016 hop growning season
« on: April 01, 2016, 02:20:19 AM »
I just got an email from Farmhouse saying that my rhizomes have shipped. It's a couple of weeks earlier than expected, but makes sense given the warm winter and spring we're having. Ordered a crown of Pacific Gem from Great Lakes Hops to complete my set.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Always start low and go high?
« on: April 01, 2016, 02:04:48 AM »
I can't think of a strain or a reason why I would pitch higher than my main fermentation temp. I've heard this recommendation for lagers, with the suggested reason being that you want your yeast to start fermentation quickly to minimize the chance for contamination. In my experience, I get excellent results by pitching lagers about 5F lower than my initial fermentation temps. If you're having issues with contamination, then you need something beyond a simple change in pitching temps.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: White Labs packaging
« on: April 01, 2016, 02:00:38 AM »
I've only used the PurePitch pouches twice. Once was WLP570, which gave me no problems whatsoever. The other was WLP002, which was somewhere between toothpaste and modeling clay in consistency. I would rather see a thinner liquid like you get from Wyeast, especially for the more flocculant strains.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Is it bad to lager in kegs?
« on: April 01, 2016, 01:46:51 AM »
I try to raise all my beers a few degrees at the tail end of fermentation, regardless of whether they are ales or lagers. I always do a d-check before starting the lagering process, though, and will give it more time before racking to keg and lagering if I detect any diacetyl.

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