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Messages - erockrph

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 2016 Spring Swap
« on: January 28, 2016, 09:35:22 AM »
Briess Pilsen extract can finish pretty low on its own.

Oh yeah. I use it for small batch hop trials. Just curious to see the FG difference the amylase brings.
I prefer the Briess Pilsen DME myself, too. I just happened to see the amylase on the shelf at my LHBS (they sell lots of flaked corn and amylase by the pound for some reason, hmm...) and figured I'd give it a try. Plus the Munich LME isn't quite as fermentable as the Pilsen DME and I want to make sure this attenuates well.

I've been doing more extract brews lately, and if this let's me control attenuation better I might add it to my toolkit. I might run some FFTs on some small batches to see if it really makes a quantifiable difference with various extracts.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 2016 Spring Swap
« on: January 27, 2016, 09:48:15 PM »
I brewed my challenge beer, a Helles, after work tonight. Here's the mise-en-place for the brew:

I decided to stay close to the original challenge rules, just changing the hops and yeast. My 3 lbs of DME was Briess Pilsen, my 8 oz of sugar was Munich LME. I used 3 oz of Carafoam as my steeping grain. I bittered to 20 IBU with Hallertau Mf at 60 min. I chilled in my sink, then topped off with ice and cold water to get down to 45F and pitched one pack of S-189.

I wanted to boost the fermentability of the extract without diluting with sugar, so I added half a teaspoon of amylase as I was bringing it to a boil. I tried to take about 15 minutes between 140F and 160F to give the amylase a chance to work. And, as you can see, since I wasn't sure how much "it" Briess has in their extract, I decided to add a bottle of "it" to the extract as a water adjustment ;) Looking forward to this one.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What's Brewing this Weekend? 01/18/2014
« on: January 27, 2016, 06:36:11 PM »
Just started chilling an extract Helles for the challenge for this spring's swap. Wort smells pretty good for an extract brew, I must say.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: AHA App Survey
« on: January 27, 2016, 06:15:48 PM »
Done and done

Dave, I'm curious to see what you find with that experiment. I feel pretty confident that you'd find a difference between the extremes, but the real question becomes whether there's a "sweet spot" that produces the best results, and what the delta in efficiency needs to be to reliably detect a difference between samples. Also, at the extremes you need to be careful that any difference is attributable to the difference in efficiency itself rather than from changes in process needed to get those efficiencies.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Anyone use Iodophor for cleaning?
« on: January 27, 2016, 11:06:29 AM »
I have access to 10% povidone-iodine solution.  How is this different?  Can it be used in a similar manner to iodophor?  On the package it states that it has 1% titratable iodine.  Inactive ingredients are listed as citric acid, disodium phosphate, nontoxynol-9 and sodium hydroxide.

Fun fact, nonoxynol-9 is a spermicide. If you don't want your beer getting pregnant, I'd go with your povidone.

The Pub / Re: Whiskey
« on: January 26, 2016, 10:27:15 PM »
Laphroaig 10 is my go-to as well. Caol Ila is another great one if you're into peat.

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Caol Ila? I never heard of it or have seen it as far as I know. Is it an Islay?
Yep. After the three distilleries on the southern coast of Islay (Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg), it's probably the next peatiest. The other Islay distilleries (Bowmore, Bunnahabhain and Bruichladdich) tend to be lower on peat, although still a fair amount compared to Highland whiskies.

Scapa 16 year is another overlooked Scotch that is similar in style to the Islay distilleries.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Fuggles anyone?
« on: January 26, 2016, 09:29:20 PM »

Hey, we have our hops we all love to hate.
Mrs R = Simcoe
Me = Nelson Sauvin.
I call dibs on Summit

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Off Color Causes
« on: January 25, 2016, 02:57:33 PM »
I've had a couple of very light colored beers end up a bit green with too much hop garbage left in the brew.  That doesn't sound like the issue you saw though.

Same here on the über hoppy IPAs on occasion, but I don't think that is the case here.

I wonder if it's related to the haze. It would be interesting to see what it looked like after they fined it.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: what temp does beer freeze?
« on: January 25, 2016, 02:50:48 PM »
what does everyone shoot for as the final lager/cold crash temp?  i set my freezer to -1C.
I lager at 30F. -1C is 30.2F. Close enough.
Same here. It gives a little wiggle room in case your controller overshoots by a degree or two.

The Pub / Re: Whiskey
« on: January 23, 2016, 09:20:20 PM »
Laphroaig 10 is my go-to as well. Caol Ila is another great one if you're into peat.

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All Grain Brewing / Re: 1 gallon batches
« on: January 23, 2016, 09:00:25 PM »
The bag squeezing myth refuses to die. Squeezing the hell out of the bag does no harm to your wort. The idea that a small increase in pressure imparted on wort soaked grains will induce tannin formation is bollocks.
I will add the caveat that it depends on your bag. Something with a coarse weave might pass some husk material through if you squeeze it excessively. But a fine mesh bag like a voile BIAB bag isn't going to be an issue.

Beer Recipes / Re: Citrus IPA Recipe?
« on: January 22, 2016, 06:36:54 PM »
I use a similar amount of hops in 3 gallons of IPA, so no - I do not think that is too much hops. But if it were me, I'd take everything between 60 minutes and the end of the boil and move them to the whirlpool. That will give you the best bang for your buck.

As far as the IBU's go, your perception of bitterness maxes out between 60 and 80 IBU's, so really don't waste your time worrying about your IBU's on a big IPA. Anything over 70 or so might as well read "MAX". Just focus on your flavor and aroma and you'll be fine.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Single Hop IPAs
« on: January 22, 2016, 06:29:36 PM »
Nothing wrong with a good Caucasian, Frank :)

I'm not a big fan of single-hopped IPA's - I prefer a little more complexity. Having said that, I'd put Meridian, Galaxy and Enigma on my short list if I had to brew one. Nelson Sauvin might be a good choice as well. Nelson might be something to look in to if you were thinking of doing a single-hopped Cascade IPA. I get a lot of the same grapefruit character from Nelson that I do from Cascade, but it is more potent and also has a nice vinous character that adds some depth.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Getting The Hoppy Into The IPA
« on: January 22, 2016, 06:24:38 PM »
Whirlpool hops are definitely where the best bang for the buck is on flavor. For non-IPA's, I follow Jon's method - target all my IBU's from a 60-minute addition, then whirlpool at 170F for flavor and some aroma. This lets you treat bittering and flavor/aroma additions separately without worrying about how many IBU's you might be getting from your late hops.

For IPA's, the actual IBU's don't really matter. The perception of bitterness maxes out in the 60-80 IBU range, and no matter what the calculators are telling you, you won't get much more than 100 measured IBU's in a beer due to solubility, as well as how much the yeast pulls out of solution. In other words, there's no reason to worry about overshooting your IBU's because there's not going to be a noticeable difference between a 70 IBU beer and one that calculates to 500 IBU. I sent an IPA in that calculated to 480 IBU and it came back at 98 IBU measured from the lab.

So, for IPA's, I start my whirlpool right at flameout and don't start to chill for 60-90 minutes. I'll get more than enough IBU's at that temp, and I do think I am getting more flavor out of the long, hot whirlpool than I do at 170F. But the 4oz/gallon hopping rate probably has something to do with that as well  ;D

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