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Messages - erockrph

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Ingredients / Re: Good News For Hop Lovers
« on: February 09, 2015, 01:09:29 PM »
Mark - Did you email Jeff to voice your concerns? What was wrong with your hops specifically?

The cones had a higher than normal shatter rate.  With whole cones, one hopes to receive mostly intact cones. Shattered cones are usually a sign of poor handling or one is receiving the dregs from a bale. 
I did have this happen recently with some experimental whole cone hops from YVH, but for the most part everything I've received from them is top-notch.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: recipe resource
« on: February 09, 2015, 01:00:47 PM »
I just saw that the new search function in Brewer's Friend lets you include "Fermentables", "Hops", "Yeast" and "Other" in your search criteria. I'm not generally a big fan of public recipe sites like that, because there's a large signal-to-noise ratio in finding a good recipe. But it's certainly a good way to go idea-mining.

For example, entering Midnight Wheat and Centennial gives a lot of Black IPA recipes. If you're looking to see what others are doing with a certain ingredient this is a decent way to search.

Ingredients / Re: Good News For Hop Lovers
« on: February 09, 2015, 12:17:20 PM »
Jeff, I see that you use mostly whole cones.  I too use whole cones almost exclusively.  I purchased whole cones from YVH last year that were not in the best condition.  Has your experience with the organization been better?  They definitely have more size options than Hops Direct.  The quality of the hops that I have received from Hops Direct over the years has been outstanding; however, the smallest package that they offer is 1lb, and shipping from the West Coast can be prohibitive on whole hops.
I agree that the quality of hops from Hops Direct is fantastic. If you're looking specifically for whole cones, then is a great option. While they do have a 12oz minimum, you can make that up in 1oz increments from multiple varieties.

Ingredients / Re: 2-Row Bulk (Ordering and Storing)
« on: February 09, 2015, 12:08:15 PM »
Ordering online and shipping is usually too much $.
Yep, unless it is your only option.
+1 - If you wait for sales, then you can often get it for a decent price. The other advantage is that if you shop around you can often get whichever specific brand you are looking for.

What yeast are you using? If you were planning on using a neutral yeast like WLP001/1056/US-05, then using a flavorful English ale strain instead will add plenty of flavor. To me, that is a great way to get a more interesting flavor without having to make any extra additions.

The Pub / Re: Blizzard
« on: February 06, 2015, 12:33:05 PM »
I'm not looking forward to any more snow. I'm not sure where we can put it. I might need to find someone with a front-end loader to move some of the buildup from the last few storms before the next one hits.

Traffic in Providence is still insane since none of the side roads are clear. When I get out of work the first 1.5 miles takes 45 minutes and the other 18 takes twenty.

All Grain Brewing / Re: The End of the 60 minute mash???
« on: February 06, 2015, 12:17:50 PM »
I didn't know tannins were nutty.
Homebrew humor - if it's too corny, try boiling for 90 minutes  ;D

Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: German Pils recommendations
« on: February 06, 2015, 12:16:13 PM »
I believe originally Austrian- Berkeley is usa production

ok that makes sense. thanks

its really good stuff.

There's also Heisenberg Pils-made from the finest German pilsner and light munich malts. Bittering and aroma hops with Perle and Select Spalt . The finest German Lager yeast, makes this authentic crisp German Pilsner a crowd favorite. 38 IBU, 5.8%abv. (end of shameless plug  8) )

Not sure I can find that locally.
I'm "uncertain" if I can get it locally, either.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Mosher's new book
« on: February 06, 2015, 11:07:25 AM »
Randy gave me a look at it at NHC last summer.  It's stunning!  He's used his skills as a graphic artist to depict new ways to think about beer flavors.  I'm really looking forward to the book.
Do you think this is the heir to "How to Brew"?
I bet it would be more of a companion than a replacement. Randy thinks more like an artist than a scientist and it shows in his work. At a quick glance at the preview, and from what I've heard in interviews, it sounds like it might be more like a bridge between How to Brew and Brewing Better Beer.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: commerical schwarzbier examples
« on: February 06, 2015, 10:59:10 AM »
I view Schwartz as simply a hoppier Dunkel. This winter I had an opportunity to try a solid Dunkel and Schwartz brewed by an NHC medal winner, and to me thats just the best way to describe it. It was a case in point that sometimes the best around is not brewed at a commercial brewery.
To me a Schwarz is more like a Black Pilsner, where a Dunkel has way more of that dark bread crust Dark Munich character.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Pilsner Malt question
« on: February 06, 2015, 06:41:49 AM »
If the smell is truly H2S (farty, rotten egg smell), then it is volatile and can either be vented or removed through contact with copper. I get it from lager strain and hefe strains during fermentation all the time. I also get it in ciders with ale strains if I don't add yeast nutrient.

If you keg, then you can blow it off by repeated CO2 purging. I haven't used copper to remove it post-fermentation - maybe someone here with experience can share their methods on that.

Edit - if it really smells like sulfur, then I doubt it's DMS. That is more of a cooked vegetable smell/flavor. In that case, it is really more related to the yeast than the malt. It just happens to be that many of the recipes that call for Pils malt (lagers and hefe's) also call for farty-smelling yeast strains.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Hard Cider Taste Like Wine! Help
« on: February 05, 2015, 06:48:20 PM »
71B is the only wine yeast I've used so far, but I prefer it to any ale strain I have tried to date.

Ingredients / Re: Dr. Rudi aka Super Alpha
« on: February 05, 2015, 11:31:40 AM »
It's hard to judge without the oil content, but the description combined with the fact that it's from New Zealand reminds me of Motueka plus some pine. I'm thinking an APA using Pils malt as your base malt would be a good start to get a drinkable beer and learn a bit more about how the hop works at the same time. Something like:

85% Pilsner
10% Caramunich I
5% Munich

1.050 OG, ~45 IBU at 60 minutes, 1 ounce as a hop stand at ~170F and 1-2 ounces as a dry hop. Use the Dr Rudi all the way through. And be sure to report back with your results :)

PS - I picked the continental malts here only because Motueka works really well with them. If you have American malts it would work, too.

All Grain Brewing / Re: The End of the 60 minute mash???
« on: February 05, 2015, 11:10:44 AM »
not to mention-when you drain a thread to death..they will turn.
Right, you start to extract some tannins at that point ;)

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: RIS fermentation
« on: February 04, 2015, 10:45:20 AM »
Your fermentation is not stuck. Windsor cannot ferment maltotriose, which is why you have a high terminal gravity (i.e., Windsor is not the best yeast strain to use with beer styles above 10 to 11 Plato).  You have to deal with a double whammy at this point in that you cannot vigorously aerate a batch that is currently sitting at over 7% ABV.  My suggestion is to pitch 20 grams of the yeast strain that I like to refer to as the Terminator (a.k.a. K1V-1116 or Montpellier).  K1V-1116 (Lalvin K1-V1116) is one of the best kept secrets in high gravity brewing.  Unlike most wine yeast strains, K1V can ferment maltotriose.  K1V is an S. cerevisiae wine strain that is good to 18%.  It also emits a killer toxin that inhibits all other microflora in the fermentation; hence, the name Terminator.  Best of all, K1V is well known for its ability to restart a stalled or under attenuated high gravity fermentation.  K1V is POF- (phenolic off-flavor negative).
What's your procedure for using K1V in a stalled fermentation? Do you make a small starter and pitch at high krausen, or just rehydrate and pitch? Also, is there an ABV cutoff where it's too high to bother? I have a few meads in the 14% range that finished a little sooner than I'd like. I'd love to chip off another 10-20 gravity points of some of them.

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