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Messages - erockrph

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976
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Law of partial pressures
« on: May 05, 2015, 06:00:46 AM »
If O2 diffused that rapidly, then I wouldn't feel like I was about to pass out every time I stick my head in my damn fermentation chamber...

977
All Grain Brewing / Re: beating a herd of dead dry-hops
« on: May 05, 2015, 05:53:26 AM »
I'm a new brewer who recently read the "Hops" book, it mentioned addign hops post boil vs dry hopping..  I've read several articles on same..    https://byo.com/hops/item/2808-hop-stands   http://www.mrmalty.com/late_hopping.php and a thread on homebrew talk http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=278559 

I did a whirlpool hop add post boil on my last IIPA which is fermenting now, the Aroma is heavenly, hope it lasts....
I find that whirlpool hops last way longer than dry hops. Dry hops seem to fade in weeks to a month, but I've had IPA's with good hop flavor/aroma for 6 months or more when using lots of whirlpool/hop stand hops.

978
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Spring 2015 Beer Swap
« on: May 05, 2015, 05:34:35 AM »
I have been experimenting with more tartness with that... A tiny bit on lactic seems to open it up a bit more. You think that might help it a bit?

Maybe. I like a tart Saison. I also like to mash like 5.2-5.25 pH to get a crisp, tart finish. Really helps IMO. Regardless, that was a tasty beer !
Was this 3711? I mash at 5.2 as well, and the resulting beer has a nice tart-citrus character. It also makes tart additions like hibiscus and currants work really well.

979
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: FWH
« on: May 03, 2015, 08:01:44 PM »
I used to use it, but now I've moved to 60 min + hopstand ± dry hops for pretty much everything. I definitely felt the character of FWH was different than a 60-minute addition, but I never did a side-by-side myself to confirm it.

980
Got it.  One more question.  Do you strain out the hops going into the fermentor?
Yeah, with the amount of hops I use, it's pretty much a necessity :) I brew 3 gallon batches, so I am able to just dump my kettle through a kitchen strainer if I'm using whole hops. If I'm using pellets, I have varying sizes of these that I pour through.

981
All Grain Brewing / Re: Dry hop vs post boil
« on: May 03, 2015, 06:34:15 PM »
Thanks all..  Apologize for confusing question, very much appreciate the exceptional information and think I've found my answer..  My intent was let's say my receipt for a 60 min boil called for a hop add at 60 and 2nd at 30, then a dry hopping..  The total IBU was to be 100...    Soooo...  What (if anything) happens to my IBUs if I should use a whirlpool hop at post boil vice dry  hop.  Would those hops I added at 60 & 30 continue to add to total IBUs.....

Depends on the temp of your hop stand. Isomerization of alpha-acids slows down as the temperature drops. If you're hopstanding at 170F or so, the extra utilization from those early boil additions will be negligible. If you perform your hop stand at a higher temp, then you will probably gain some IBU's. Even then, 60-minute or longer additions won't add much more at that point (maybe 10% more IBU's, barely noticible). But a 30-minute or shorter addition may give quite a bit more than expected.

982
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: DAP and beer color
« on: May 02, 2015, 10:01:15 PM »
Interesting. I wonder if this is pH-related, or if there's a chemical reaction going on that is causing this.

983
The best way to increase hop flavor is to use a hop stand. Use just enough of a smooth bittering hop at 60 minutes to get your target IBU's, then add all your flavor hops after flameout once your wort gets down to about 170F. Stir the heck out of it, then let it steep at that temp for a half an hour (stirring occasionally) before chilling the rest of the way and pitching. You will be amazed at how much hop flavor you will get. There is no need for a hopback, this works way better.
Do you cover the kettle for the half hour 170 F rest?  It seems like the wort would cool to the 130s if uncovered.  Or do you give it a shot with the burner?
I brew indoors on my glass stovetop. I put the pot back on top of the hot burner and cover it in between stirs. It is generally still in the 150's after half an hour. I do try to minimize temp loss, but I'm not overly concerned about losing even 20 degrees or so.

984
The best way to increase hop flavor is to use a hop stand. Use just enough of a smooth bittering hop at 60 minutes to get your target IBU's, then add all your flavor hops after flameout once your wort gets down to about 170F. Stir the heck out of it, then let it steep at that temp for a half an hour (stirring occasionally) before chilling the rest of the way and pitching. You will be amazed at how much hop flavor you will get. There is no need for a hopback, this works way better.

985
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Beer in Brazil
« on: May 01, 2015, 05:18:14 PM »
I had the cachasa via the caipirinha cocktail the Brazilians love (or I think that's what's in it). My head still hurts thinking about it. I may or may not have had too many.
Caipirinha is one of my all -time favorite drinks. I will take a good caipirinha over a mojito or margarita any day. Now I have a craving for some churrascaria...

986
Other Fermentables / Small Batch Wine Kits
« on: May 01, 2015, 12:01:10 PM »
I know I'm not the only one here who has an interest in dabbling in brewing some wine. Northern Brewer has a new lineup of 1-gallon wine kits that looks interesting. Right now they're running a deal where you get an extra kit of chardonnay if you buy their starter kit (which already includes a wine kit of your choice). Not a bad deal for $80 - two 1 gallon wine kits, and just about all the equipment you could need. It looks like all you need to provide is the bottles. I don't drink a lot of wine, so the smaller kits are actually pretty tempting to me:

Link

987
Are you dissatisfied with the flavor of the beer? If not then FG is irrelevant.

Bingo! In the end, FG is just a number. Your tastebuds can't read a hydrometer.

988
Beer Recipes / Re: ESB thoughts
« on: April 30, 2015, 10:22:31 AM »
ok. i had originally gone with wlp007 because its very similar to flavor and characteristics of wlp002/1968 yet with higher attenuation.

i will keep fingers cross all works out as planned.
Maybe I'm lucky, but I've never had attenuation issues with 1968. I do try to rouse the yeast every day or so, and bump up the temp at the end, but otherwise no real special attention.

989
Beer Recipes / Re: Dunkel and Schwarzbier recipes differences
« on: April 30, 2015, 10:13:08 AM »
Thanks.  For the malt bills, I was thinking 50:50 munich (L) and munich (D) for the Dunkel, and 50:50 Pilsner and munich (L) for Schwarzbier (with some carafa for color for each).  Am I on the right track?  Too much munich in the Schwarzbier maybe?
Sounds reasonable to me. I go with about 85% Munich II, 15% Pils for my Dunkel, and 70:30 Pils:Munich for my Schwarz, but we're both in the same ballpark.

990
Ingredients / Re: Cocculus indicus substitute
« on: April 30, 2015, 09:50:56 AM »
Maybe some wormwood? Just be careful, that stuff is nasty bitter.

a friend of mine puts  alittle bit of wormwood in his pale ale and IPA. it adds a really braceing bitterness that's complimentary but different than hop bitterness... and the green fairies are entertaining too ;)
Right. That was part of the reason I mentioned wormwood as a substitute for the Cocculus. Although it is doubtful that the alleged effects of the "green fairy" are truly due to the wormwood, rather than the adulterants that were in common use a century ago.

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