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Messages - erockrph

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976
Beer Recipes / Re: Please Critique my IPA Recipe
« on: September 27, 2014, 08:35:53 AM »
Recipe looks pretty good to me, although I'm not necessarily in 100% agreement with moving all your late additions to flameout. You do need at least some heat to help extract the most flavor out of your hops. Depending on how fast you chill your wort, you may not get enough contact time with hot wort to get all the flavor you want out of it.

You have to know your system. You may be fine with having everything at flameout, or instead you may find that you're not getting all the hop character you want compared to a 5-10 minute boil addition.

To really get a lot of hop flavor punch out of an IPA, I'd recommend doing a hop stand. Chill to about 170F, then add your flameout additions and stir it hard until all the hops are wetted and mixed in. Then let it steep for 30 minutes or so. That will get you a big punch of hop flavor without adding bitterness.

977
Ingredients / Re: Hops
« on: September 27, 2014, 07:58:32 AM »
If you want to taste test them, I'd just brew a small batch of a basic Pale Ale recipe. Bitter to about 35-40 IBU's with a clean bittering hop like Magnum. Then use about 1oz/gallon of the dried cones at flameout, or better yet as a hop stand at about 170F. That will generally net you a drinkable beer and give you a good idea about what the hops are like.

978
Ingredients / Re: Your Grain Inventory?
« on: September 27, 2014, 07:51:58 AM »


I went to a local homebrew shop a while ago asking if he had lactic acid in stock.  He said he didn't carry it because no one uses it anymore and just uses 5.2  ::)

I haven't been back there since and got my lactic acid at a different (and better) shop.

good call.

The are those that have pH meters and those that use 5.2.
I've found that a good working knowledge of Brun'water is just as good as having a pH meter.

979
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Unusual amount of blowoff
« on: September 27, 2014, 07:50:14 AM »
My thought is that the organic material from the pumpkin is giving a big boost to the "head retention" of your krausen.

980
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Article Tips
« on: September 27, 2014, 07:47:41 AM »
Regarding the solid mass in fermenters, I think the thought there is that hop compounds can stick to anything in suspension, which would then pull them out of solution during fermentation/conditioning. It's a reasonable idea, but I'm not sure just how much effect this has in the end. It certainly can't hurt to take some extra precautions, but I'm not personally going out of the way to do this.

Keeping the dry hops in suspension isn't really feasible for the homebrewer unless you ferment in a conical or closed keg where you can blow CO2 through the beer to rouse the dry hops. But, as mentioned before, the vessels we typically ferment in as homebrewers leave more surface area for contact with the hops.

My main tip for IPA's is to use more hops. :) That will generally overcome any of the issues mentioned.

981
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: First time brewer - Low carbonation
« on: September 27, 2014, 06:52:03 AM »
Take them all out of the fridge ASAP. Carbonation generally takes 2-3 weeks at room temp to get to drinkable levels and another week or two beyond that to fully finish. Refrigeration will slow, if not stop, the carbonation process.

I know it sucks to wait that long to drink your first batch. I'd advise starting on your next batch soon, though. The first one will disappear in no time once it's ready.

Also, since you didn't measure your FG, you have no way to tell whether there is residual sugar left from the beer for the yeast to eat in addition to the priming sugar. Make sure you check back on them every so often (if they last that long :) ) to make sure they aren't overcarbonated. If you see signs of severe overcarbonation (usually gushing or geysers as soon as the cap is opened), then chill and drink them ASAP. There is a risk of exploding bottles if beer is severaly overcarbonated.

You will probably see some overcarbonation after a while even if the beer was completely fermented out, anyways. The 5oz of corn sugar that comes with most kits is actually a bit much for a full 5 gallons. If you're bottling less than 5 gallons, then you will see even more carbonation than that. I'd strongly suggest using a priming sugar calculator such as this in the future: http://www.northernbrewer.com/priming-sugar-calculator/

982
Ingredients / Re: fruit lambic
« on: September 26, 2014, 07:06:03 PM »
Brett alone is fine, just not a lambic. the brett is one small piece of what is Lambic. the pedio is at least important and where much of the sourness comes from.
I suppose I could still add the bacteria. I might not though, just to see how it comes out. Its only about 2 gallons once I rack it off the peaches.
It may not be a lambic, but many of my favorite beers are Brett-aged. Orval being a prime example. A good Brett beer can be a wonderful thing.

983
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: fall/winter beer styles
« on: September 26, 2014, 06:52:17 PM »
Just had some Sinebrychoff for the first time in a while. Baltic Porter now tops my list for cool weather beer.

984
The Pub / Re: Techy Help
« on: September 25, 2014, 09:09:38 PM »
I use Cloud Print, but my hope PC is always on with my printer attached. That might not suit your needs.

985
Here's a really easy starter IPA recipe:

For 5 gallons:

7.5lb Extra Light DME (I like Muntons)
0.5 lb Crystal 40

1 oz Columbus at 60 minutes
1 oz Simcoe at 10 minutes
1 oz Amarillo at 5 minutes
1 oz Citra at flameout
1 packet of US-05 yeast, ferment in the low 60's

Dry hop with an ounce each of Citra and Amarillo for 5 days after the krausen has fallen

That's a basic entry-level IPA. If you want to get more advanced, then keep the ounce of Columbus at 60 and save all the other boil hops for a hop stand. After the boil, wait until your wort gets to about 170F, then add in the Simcoe, Amarillo and Citra (you can go up to 2 ounces of each of you want to maximize the hop flavor). Give it a good stir until all the hops are mixed in. then let it sit at that temp for 30 minutes before chilling. If you do 2 oz of each hop in the hop stand, you can also use 2 ounces of each in the dry hop as well.

Good luck!

986
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Safbrew Abbaye Ale
« on: September 25, 2014, 07:04:39 PM »
Interesting description. Between the flavor and attenuation it almost sounds like a Saison strain.

987
Beer Recipes / Re: Traditional Bock
« on: September 25, 2014, 04:24:10 PM »


I have brewed a couple of all dark Munich bocks, and have decided I just don't care for the taste of them.  I get this weird vegetal taste, and that was using Durst and Weyemann dark Munich. YMMV.
As much as I love a good Dunkel, Dark Munich has a powerful, distinct flavor and aroma. I don't think I'd enjoy it as the dominant flavor in a Bock-sized brew.

988
Beer Recipes / Re: Traditional Bock
« on: September 25, 2014, 04:20:18 PM »
I'd use the Carafa special unless you intentionally want some roast character. The husk-on Carafa is in a similar ballpark as Black Malt.

989
Beer Recipes / Re: Traditional Bock
« on: September 25, 2014, 11:14:17 AM »
I was literally just about to start almost the exact same thread. I keep my Märzen on tap a good chunk of the time, and I have a keg of doppelbock about ready to tap, but I'd like to brew something in the middle ground for the winter. I've never brewed a Bock, and there aren't a lot of commercial examples out there that I've found, either.

A lot of recipes I've seen call for a large amount of Dark Munich - is this style essentially a big Dunkel? Not to stir the pot, but I'm also wondering what everyone's thoughts are on CaraMunich in this style.

I still have some Red X Malt laying around, so I was thinking of giving it a go here. Here's my first pass at a recipe:

Title: Red Bock

Brew Method: BIAB
Style Name: Traditional Bock
Boil Time: 60 min
Batch Size: 3 gallons (fermentor volume)
Efficiency: 80% (brew house)

STATS:
Original Gravity: 1.070
Final Gravity: 1.018
ABV (standard): 6.9%
IBU (tinseth): 26.37
SRM (morey): 15.15

FERMENTABLES:
1 lb - German - Munich Dark (16.7%)
0.5 lb - German - Pilsner (8.3%)
4 oz - Belgian - Aromatic (4.2%)
4 oz - German - CaraMunich III (4.2%)
4 lb - Red X Malt (66.7%)

HOPS:
0.6 oz - Sterling, Type: Pellet, AA: 7.1, Use: Boil for 60 min, IBU: 26.37

MASH GUIDELINES:
1) Infusion, Temp: 153 F, Time: 75 min, Amount: 17 qt, Sacc Rest

YEAST:
Wyeast - Octoberfest Lager Blend 2633

990
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: It stopped bubbling! Did I kill it?
« on: September 25, 2014, 06:16:04 AM »
So in the end it never started to re-bubble. Hopefully all is still well...
I guarantee you're fine. Buckets rarely seal 100% air-tight. The most vigorous part of fermentation is likely done by now, so the CO2 that is being produced may just be slipping out a leaky lid instead of pushing through the airlock. It's going to be OK. You're going to make beer, and it will be good. It's just the newbie jitters talking. RDWHAHB

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