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Messages - erockrph

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Mosher's new book
« on: February 06, 2015, 11:07:25 AM »
Randy gave me a look at it at NHC last summer.  It's stunning!  He's used his skills as a graphic artist to depict new ways to think about beer flavors.  I'm really looking forward to the book.
Do you think this is the heir to "How to Brew"?
I bet it would be more of a companion than a replacement. Randy thinks more like an artist than a scientist and it shows in his work. At a quick glance at the preview, and from what I've heard in interviews, it sounds like it might be more like a bridge between How to Brew and Brewing Better Beer.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: commerical schwarzbier examples
« on: February 06, 2015, 10:59:10 AM »
I view Schwartz as simply a hoppier Dunkel. This winter I had an opportunity to try a solid Dunkel and Schwartz brewed by an NHC medal winner, and to me thats just the best way to describe it. It was a case in point that sometimes the best around is not brewed at a commercial brewery.
To me a Schwarz is more like a Black Pilsner, where a Dunkel has way more of that dark bread crust Dark Munich character.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Pilsner Malt question
« on: February 06, 2015, 06:41:49 AM »
If the smell is truly H2S (farty, rotten egg smell), then it is volatile and can either be vented or removed through contact with copper. I get it from lager strain and hefe strains during fermentation all the time. I also get it in ciders with ale strains if I don't add yeast nutrient.

If you keg, then you can blow it off by repeated CO2 purging. I haven't used copper to remove it post-fermentation - maybe someone here with experience can share their methods on that.

Edit - if it really smells like sulfur, then I doubt it's DMS. That is more of a cooked vegetable smell/flavor. In that case, it is really more related to the yeast than the malt. It just happens to be that many of the recipes that call for Pils malt (lagers and hefe's) also call for farty-smelling yeast strains.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Hard Cider Taste Like Wine! Help
« on: February 05, 2015, 06:48:20 PM »
71B is the only wine yeast I've used so far, but I prefer it to any ale strain I have tried to date.

Ingredients / Re: Dr. Rudi aka Super Alpha
« on: February 05, 2015, 11:31:40 AM »
It's hard to judge without the oil content, but the description combined with the fact that it's from New Zealand reminds me of Motueka plus some pine. I'm thinking an APA using Pils malt as your base malt would be a good start to get a drinkable beer and learn a bit more about how the hop works at the same time. Something like:

85% Pilsner
10% Caramunich I
5% Munich

1.050 OG, ~45 IBU at 60 minutes, 1 ounce as a hop stand at ~170F and 1-2 ounces as a dry hop. Use the Dr Rudi all the way through. And be sure to report back with your results :)

PS - I picked the continental malts here only because Motueka works really well with them. If you have American malts it would work, too.

All Grain Brewing / Re: The End of the 60 minute mash???
« on: February 05, 2015, 11:10:44 AM »
not to mention-when you drain a thread to death..they will turn.
Right, you start to extract some tannins at that point ;)

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: RIS fermentation
« on: February 04, 2015, 10:45:20 AM »
Your fermentation is not stuck. Windsor cannot ferment maltotriose, which is why you have a high terminal gravity (i.e., Windsor is not the best yeast strain to use with beer styles above 10 to 11 Plato).  You have to deal with a double whammy at this point in that you cannot vigorously aerate a batch that is currently sitting at over 7% ABV.  My suggestion is to pitch 20 grams of the yeast strain that I like to refer to as the Terminator (a.k.a. K1V-1116 or Montpellier).  K1V-1116 (Lalvin K1-V1116) is one of the best kept secrets in high gravity brewing.  Unlike most wine yeast strains, K1V can ferment maltotriose.  K1V is an S. cerevisiae wine strain that is good to 18%.  It also emits a killer toxin that inhibits all other microflora in the fermentation; hence, the name Terminator.  Best of all, K1V is well known for its ability to restart a stalled or under attenuated high gravity fermentation.  K1V is POF- (phenolic off-flavor negative).
What's your procedure for using K1V in a stalled fermentation? Do you make a small starter and pitch at high krausen, or just rehydrate and pitch? Also, is there an ABV cutoff where it's too high to bother? I have a few meads in the 14% range that finished a little sooner than I'd like. I'd love to chip off another 10-20 gravity points of some of them.

All Grain Brewing / Re: The End of the 60 minute mash???
« on: February 04, 2015, 09:56:54 AM »
Yeah, that's a little higher volume blue mash tun than my Coleman.   ;)
I'd need one of these to hoist my BIAB bag:

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Hard Cider Taste Like Wine! Help
« on: February 04, 2015, 09:53:03 AM »
What has worked very well for me is to add the extra sugar up front, then sorbate/sulfite and backsweeten with fresh pressed cider. This brings back a lot of the apple character that seems missing from the dry cider.

Other Fermentables / Re: Storing opened wine kit
« on: February 03, 2015, 06:09:39 PM »
Freezing seems like the only fool proof and quality preserving way to go. If you divided a gallon into quarts could you cram it in? Friends? And seriously it would be good outside until at least the end of February. This reminds me: My wild grape saison came out great, thanks for the Nelson Sauvin tip Eric.

Glad it worked out for you!

Other Fermentables / Re: Storing opened wine kit
« on: February 03, 2015, 05:32:34 PM »
Ferment seems like the way to go.  You could ferment the concentrate or dilute and then ferment.  I would tend to ferment the concentrate or partially dilute the concentrate so that there is a lot of sugar left to be fermented by the saison yeast.

Edit:  I would use a non-killer wine yeast for the fermentation so there is no chance of the wine yeast taking over the saison.  There are some possibilities of getting interesting other flavors by selecting a wine yeast.
Another option might be to ferment the must with 3711 to keep a similar flavor profile.

I'm starting to lean towards using it up right away the more I think of it. I'm thinking to start a lacto fermentation first on some pale wort, then pitch Sacch and some Orval dregs with the must.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Stuck fermentation - Doppelbock
« on: February 03, 2015, 05:21:26 PM »

With that said, I am currently fermenting what I am referring to as American Pale Bock at 57F with  Wallerstein Saaz Yeast #64B.  While there was a low amount of fruity outgassing in the early stages of fermentation, that odor has been replaced by low-medium H2S.  I am curious to see how this batch turns out given the fermentation temperature and the fact that the scientist who propagated the strain for me believed that it may be a petite selection.  I thought the same while propagating it on solid and in liquid media.  However, I am not so certain now that I have seen it in action in a real world wort.
Tangent: American Pale Bock has piqued my interest. Care to share a recipe?

Other Fermentables / Re: Storing opened wine kit
« on: February 03, 2015, 01:29:06 PM »
If I froze a gallon or so of this, I'd have to throw out hops to make room. Other suggestions?

Equipment and Software / Re: Brewing Apps?
« on: February 03, 2015, 01:18:02 PM »
I have been researching a little more and I feel it's between Brewer's Friend and BeerSmith.  I may be looking at something wrong but does Brewer's Friend require a yearly fee?  Thanks for all the responses and please keep them coming.
You can save 2 recipes as a free trial. Paid version is $9.99/yr IIRC

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Microscope Purchase
« on: February 03, 2015, 01:08:15 PM »
Have you looked at American Science & Surplus ( )? I'm not sure what the quality of their scopes is, but their prices are killer on most items.

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