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Messages - erockrph

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Ingredients / Re: fruit lambic
« on: September 26, 2014, 07:06:03 PM »
Brett alone is fine, just not a lambic. the brett is one small piece of what is Lambic. the pedio is at least important and where much of the sourness comes from.
I suppose I could still add the bacteria. I might not though, just to see how it comes out. Its only about 2 gallons once I rack it off the peaches.
It may not be a lambic, but many of my favorite beers are Brett-aged. Orval being a prime example. A good Brett beer can be a wonderful thing.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: fall/winter beer styles
« on: September 26, 2014, 06:52:17 PM »
Just had some Sinebrychoff for the first time in a while. Baltic Porter now tops my list for cool weather beer.

The Pub / Re: Techy Help
« on: September 25, 2014, 09:09:38 PM »
I use Cloud Print, but my hope PC is always on with my printer attached. That might not suit your needs.

Here's a really easy starter IPA recipe:

For 5 gallons:

7.5lb Extra Light DME (I like Muntons)
0.5 lb Crystal 40

1 oz Columbus at 60 minutes
1 oz Simcoe at 10 minutes
1 oz Amarillo at 5 minutes
1 oz Citra at flameout
1 packet of US-05 yeast, ferment in the low 60's

Dry hop with an ounce each of Citra and Amarillo for 5 days after the krausen has fallen

That's a basic entry-level IPA. If you want to get more advanced, then keep the ounce of Columbus at 60 and save all the other boil hops for a hop stand. After the boil, wait until your wort gets to about 170F, then add in the Simcoe, Amarillo and Citra (you can go up to 2 ounces of each of you want to maximize the hop flavor). Give it a good stir until all the hops are mixed in. then let it sit at that temp for 30 minutes before chilling. If you do 2 oz of each hop in the hop stand, you can also use 2 ounces of each in the dry hop as well.

Good luck!

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Safbrew Abbaye Ale
« on: September 25, 2014, 07:04:39 PM »
Interesting description. Between the flavor and attenuation it almost sounds like a Saison strain.

Beer Recipes / Re: Traditional Bock
« on: September 25, 2014, 04:24:10 PM »

I have brewed a couple of all dark Munich bocks, and have decided I just don't care for the taste of them.  I get this weird vegetal taste, and that was using Durst and Weyemann dark Munich. YMMV.
As much as I love a good Dunkel, Dark Munich has a powerful, distinct flavor and aroma. I don't think I'd enjoy it as the dominant flavor in a Bock-sized brew.

Beer Recipes / Re: Traditional Bock
« on: September 25, 2014, 04:20:18 PM »
I'd use the Carafa special unless you intentionally want some roast character. The husk-on Carafa is in a similar ballpark as Black Malt.

Beer Recipes / Re: Traditional Bock
« on: September 25, 2014, 11:14:17 AM »
I was literally just about to start almost the exact same thread. I keep my Märzen on tap a good chunk of the time, and I have a keg of doppelbock about ready to tap, but I'd like to brew something in the middle ground for the winter. I've never brewed a Bock, and there aren't a lot of commercial examples out there that I've found, either.

A lot of recipes I've seen call for a large amount of Dark Munich - is this style essentially a big Dunkel? Not to stir the pot, but I'm also wondering what everyone's thoughts are on CaraMunich in this style.

I still have some Red X Malt laying around, so I was thinking of giving it a go here. Here's my first pass at a recipe:

Title: Red Bock

Brew Method: BIAB
Style Name: Traditional Bock
Boil Time: 60 min
Batch Size: 3 gallons (fermentor volume)
Efficiency: 80% (brew house)

Original Gravity: 1.070
Final Gravity: 1.018
ABV (standard): 6.9%
IBU (tinseth): 26.37
SRM (morey): 15.15

1 lb - German - Munich Dark (16.7%)
0.5 lb - German - Pilsner (8.3%)
4 oz - Belgian - Aromatic (4.2%)
4 oz - German - CaraMunich III (4.2%)
4 lb - Red X Malt (66.7%)

0.6 oz - Sterling, Type: Pellet, AA: 7.1, Use: Boil for 60 min, IBU: 26.37

1) Infusion, Temp: 153 F, Time: 75 min, Amount: 17 qt, Sacc Rest

Wyeast - Octoberfest Lager Blend 2633

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: It stopped bubbling! Did I kill it?
« on: September 25, 2014, 06:16:04 AM »
So in the end it never started to re-bubble. Hopefully all is still well...
I guarantee you're fine. Buckets rarely seal 100% air-tight. The most vigorous part of fermentation is likely done by now, so the CO2 that is being produced may just be slipping out a leaky lid instead of pushing through the airlock. It's going to be OK. You're going to make beer, and it will be good. It's just the newbie jitters talking. RDWHAHB

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Dunkelweizen fermentation
« on: September 25, 2014, 04:55:24 AM »
According to palmer, a starter less than 1 liter may actually cause more harm than good. At least one starting from a conmercial liquid culture. If growing from small amounts, like a slant or commercial bottle, small weak starters would be beneficial. I'm sure there is more scientific info out there, maybe S Cerv, can chime in. 
I think it'd be fine if you're trying to build cell count from an old vile or smack pack. I have a vile of WLP830 that expired in May that I think I'll have to build up from maybe half liter, to liter, to 2 liters.
I don't think the middle step is going to do much for you there. I don't necessarily consider it exact science, but the rule of thumb I've always heard is a tenfold increase between steps of starters. I don't really think you need a step for each doubling of cell count.

If I think yeast health is iffy (old pack, culturing bottle dregs, etc.), then I'll use a lower gravity starter in the 1.020 range for my first step. After that I assume I have a reasonably healthy culture and step up as normal.

The Pub / Re: Lessons Learned
« on: September 24, 2014, 06:10:53 PM »
Thank you. I'll give the baking soda a try as well.  I used the BruNwater spreadsheet to estimate and manage pH and minerials, Brown Malty profile with a little more sodium (40).  The taste is pretty subtle to me, I think my wife is really senistive to this chocolate malt.
Which chocolate malt did you use? Pale or regular? I find that the lighter roasted malts aren't as smooth as the dark ones, but the darker roasted malts give you a bit more ashiness.

Ingredients / Re: Your Grain Inventory?
« on: September 24, 2014, 05:43:51 AM »
I brew smaller batches and shop online, so I generally just buy a few batches worth of grain at a time. Having said that, there are a few that I always keep an extra pound or two of laying around:

Aromatic - I sneak a few ounces into most of my Belgians and amber (or darker) lagers. It's like a Super Munich when used in small amounts.
CaraMunich (usually III, sometimes II)
UK Dark Crystal
UK Extra Dark Crystal
Special B
Midnight Wheat (for color adjustment)
Chocolate Malt (Pale & regular)
Roast Barley (Pale & regular)
Torrified Wheat (for UK ales and Lambics)

Other adjuncts I keep on hand:
D-90 and D-180 Candi Syrup
Lyle's Golden Syrup

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Dry yeast for English styles
« on: September 24, 2014, 04:57:15 AM »
S-04 is the same strain as WLP007 and Wyeast 1098; namely, Whitbread "B."
That's what I had always heard but the last time I tried it I thought that it had a good bit of diacetyl so I always stuck with liquid yeast. I love WLP007 - it's my favorite English strain.
I haven't gotten diacetyl, but I've gotten the "bready" thing that a lot of brewers say they get. I don't generally repitch dry yeast, but if it's the same strain as 007 & 1098, then I'm wondering whether it starts to act more like the liquid brands after a repitch or two. It seems like there's some quirk with the Fermentis version that doesn't give quite the same result as the liquid right out of the gate.

Equipment and Software / Re: Small batch equipment questions
« on: September 23, 2014, 06:29:30 PM »
  I like variety and just don't drink beer fast enough to get a lot of practical experience with bigger batches, but if I find a recipe I like I can always do a bigger one to share.
I'm the same way. Smaller batches means I get to brew more often.

All Grain Brewing / Re: mash temp for porter
« on: September 23, 2014, 06:27:47 PM »
How's your water? Roasted grains can lower your mash pH. I'm wondering if it's getting low enough to affect conversion for you.
Would steeping the darker grains in a bag in the wort or adding at lautering solve this?
If this is indeed the case, then it should at least help with the conversion issue. You'd still likely end up with a low final pH in your beer, though, and that may have flavor consequences.

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