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Messages - mpietropaoli

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Holy Hell....its hot-side aeration
« on: October 19, 2012, 11:34:34 PM »
Do you taste the off flavor in the green beer at bottling time?
A little O2 when bottle conditioning can't be that bad, since the yeast will scavenge it.

not really.  Its almost like it happens in the bottles.

General Homebrew Discussion / Holy Hell....its hot-side aeration
« on: October 19, 2012, 02:07:13 PM »
I’ve never really known what recirculating means.  Is this just taking a mash paddle and stirring it in the opposite direction of the coils?  Wait, that’s whirlpooling.  My wort is sitting in the boil kettle during chilling.  How do I recirculate without buying/building more gear?
This twist in my process came from me wanting to simplify process and equipment.  I read a lot about no-chill brewing, and thought I might try it.  Then a guy over @ HB Chatter was telling me about this ‘partial chill’ method, and that he got great results.  I do have to say that clarity has not been a problem with this method, and it allows me to pitch cold, especially for lagers.
The people that claim HSA is a myth (and I listened to the Brew Strong episode where Dr. Charlie Bamforth) discusses it) are partially correct.  Typically for homebrewers, the ‘hot side’ process ends at flameout.  The boil will drive off most of the compounds that form as a result of oxygenating/aerating hot wort.  However, with my partial chill-process, my ‘hot side’ goes a little longer, and there is POST BOIL activity on the hot side….so I probably need to be a little more careful about aerating since it is post boil….AND since it is above 80 degrees and aldehydes can still form.
The reality is, it’s a pretty simple fix in hooking up a sanitized hose to the valve to transfer from the kettle to the fermenter.
@jeffy, this beer was bottled barely a week before my sampling.  So it could just be ‘green beer’.  But the flavor is something I recognize in old and young beer of mine.
@ Redbeerman, really not hating on plate chillers, but in my little rowhouse, it almost seems to be more trouble than its worth.  My IC will chill it in 20 minutes or so, and for the hassle of sanitizing the chiller and pump, hooking it all up, only to have my wort drip out a bit too warm and have to adjust flow, I will just stick to the
Finally, HEEEERE IS THE WEIRD THING…I just pulled a pint of my Oktoberfest last night, which has been conditioning in the keg for about 4 weeks.  This flavor is not present.  (FYI, I only keg occasionally since I don’t have a dedicated serving fridge, but have 2 kegs and a CO2 tank)….And the beer was done with my weird partial chill method and vigorous dumping.  Maybe I could be getting oxidation at bottling?
Bottling process is this:
-rack to bottling bucket, figure out final volume of beer
-calculate desired volumes CO2, dissolve appropriate weight of corn sugar in water, ADD THIS to the beer in the bottling bucket (I try to do it gently, but there is some splashing…I do it this way because I can’t be totally sure of final volume in the primary fermenter, as I will leave trub, etc. behind).
-bottles:  fill each with a few grains of oxy clean and water, let sit for a few hours or overnight; spray each with carboy/bottle sprayer/blaster thingy, spray each with star san, let sit for another 10-15 minutes, drain
-fill with bottling cane
I don’t CO2 purge the bottles.

General Homebrew Discussion / Holy Hell....its hot-side aeration
« on: October 18, 2012, 02:27:30 AM »
So I have been trying to pinpoint a flavor that is coming through in the majority of my beers.  Some people, BJCP-certified in my club even, can't pick it up.  But I know it.  Well.  And haven't really been able to pinpoint it. 

After tasting my latest IPA experiment, I noticed it AGAIN.  Its a somewhat cardboard, tart, papery off flavor. 

When my boil is complete, I have been immersion chilling, as for a 5 gallon batch, my plate chiller is just not worth the trouble.  Until recently, I would cool it down to pitching temp or near it with the immersion.  Lately, I've been partial chilling below 140 to stave off DMS, then placing in the fermenting fridge to get the beer exactly to pitching temp (albeit a bit more slowly).  In both methods though, I have been directly dumping out of the kettle into the fermenter, sometimes a bit vigorously.  I will leave as much trub as I can behind (I don't whirlpool), but after my wort has chilled to pitching temp, I will vigorously dump into a new clean, sanitized fermenter before pitching, and decant off the trub. 

Either way though, aldehydes are forming from introducing the beer to too much oxygen when its above 80 degrees right?  (it is rare that I will chill with my IC below 80...usually more like 100-110). 

Has anyone else made this mistake, or corrected it and noticed improvement??

I need to read How to Brew all over again....I spent my first 10 batches boiling with the lid ON because I had it in my head that I didn't want to lose volume (this is before Ray Daniels schooled me that the TOTAL GRAVITY in the pot cannot change!!  Ie, no you are not losing WORT with boil off!!)

Beer Recipes / Re: Saison de Noel
« on: October 16, 2012, 01:41:38 AM »
Whatever you do , do NOT use the Dupont yeast (WLP 565, not sure of the WY equivalent), unless you want to repitch US-05 or champagne yeast when it stalls on you. 

I have had fantastic results when using "saison II" or WL 566.  Not sure if the WY strain above is the equivalent or not, but it is a great attenuator and gives excellent saison characteristics without corainder or other adjunct additions. 

With that much munich, you might consider mashing even lower.  Jamil suggests 148 to get it as dry as possible (to his point, I have had many saisons that are simply not dry enough).  75 min mash is a good idea as you state. 

Jamil also says it is a good idea to pitch good, healthy, viable yeast, but do not overpitch (he suggests making the starter the morning of your brew day), so you can get some growth. 

Good luck!  Hops, etc. look great!

CO / BJCP Lessons?
« on: October 15, 2012, 11:23:29 PM »
It's not purely dedicated to what you are looking for, but The Brewmasters Table is a GREAT read that goes through the taste profile, history, and FOOD PAIRINGS of most BJCP styles.  A great thing to do as well if u do not have any structured live tastings is to print out a copy of the BJCP style guidelines and a bottle of one of the commercial examples of a particular style, and read it as you taste. 

One more rec: download The jamil shows podcasts where he goes through how to brew the styles.  Great notes on flavor profiles, etc.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Using sweet cherries
« on: October 09, 2012, 12:44:25 AM »
I would certainly reserve some for a pie! 

Jamil said in one of the podcasts (I think on Baltic Porter) that cherries are one of the harder fruits to work with.  You either have the problem of driving off too many volatiles by adding during the late stages of primary fermentation, or if you add them too late, they can sometimes just taste funny.  What many say works best with fruit is too add them after primary fermentation has completed, and to SUPPLEMENT with the same fruit extract at bottling/kegging, or slightly before.  If I were you, I would do the following:

Select a style -- I believe that american wheats and porters are several styles that work better than others with cherries.  I'm not sure if its sour or sweet (or if it matters).  Add 6 lbs of them to your batch of whatever you make after primary fermentation.  If you can puree them after thawing, do that to add surface area and pulverize the skins (sanitize your blender/food processor, though the alcohol in the beer at that point will be helpful in staving off bugs/bacteria from taking hold/multiplying).  Wait another few weeks (order some cherry extract in the meantime), let them ferment out and taste it. 

This is the best part:  draw about 8 ounces of the beer, and separate into 4 glasses.  Dose each one with increasing amounts of the extract and taste each one, clearing your palette in between (it helps to have some additional palettes/pieholes around).  Then scale it up to the amount of beer remaining prior to kegging/bottling. 

Then, once its carbed, send me a six pack.

All Grain Brewing / Last three batches terrible
« on: October 07, 2012, 01:04:40 PM »
Not sure if someone else said this, but could it be carbonation levels in the finished beer?  Sounds more like a water issue though.

Events / GABF Ticket Sales/Swaps
« on: October 06, 2012, 11:58:01 PM »
One farm to table for Friday night.  $140 obo to cover price and convenience charge.

Ingredients / Dry hop help
« on: October 06, 2012, 12:27:56 PM »
Many ppl, including Denny, say u can skip the weights.  While it might make us feel better, I don't know that it increases the amount of aroma they impart.

All Grain Brewing / Too much caramunich, doh!
« on: October 06, 2012, 12:24:07 PM »
Turned out pretty tasty tho after 10 days, ramping temp slowly up to 80.  Will prob finish right around 1.010

All Grain Brewing / Too much caramunich, doh!
« on: October 06, 2012, 12:22:41 PM »
Was thinking about as much as 5#, then if they ferment out, supplement it with cran extract

All Grain Brewing / Brewing for a party on a deadline.
« on: October 06, 2012, 12:20:13 PM »
This looks awesome!  I might brew this real soon.  May I ask why notty tho as opposed to 001/us05? Does it bump up the maltiness or give it a light tart edge?  I just had an awful experience w s-04 is why I ask. 

Events / One extra Farm to Table for GABF
« on: October 04, 2012, 01:00:29 AM »
Anyone need one?  $140.  My wife had a work thing come up and I'm going with our two friends on Friday night.  I have it on Stubhub right now, but would rather an AHA member have it.  PM me or reply. 

As I rarely take beers off the  yeast for conditioning, i typically dry-hop in the primary, in a bag, so i can take them out if it gets the flavor/aroma profile I want.  I needed the yeast cake on this one though, so I transferred to a carboy.  I probably just won't weight them next time.  Or I split it into two batches, weighted dry hops in one, equivalent weighted dry hops in the other.  I will see if myself or 10 tasters can tell the difference. 

Don't worry, the chrome is in metallic form and unless you see corrosion there shouldn't be any significant chromium dissolving.  Theres chrome in stainless steel too for that matter.  Chromium is actually an essential nutrient, albeit at low levels.

Hexavalent chromium ions are the bad stuff.  The most common form is trivalent chromium.  I have not attempted to strain my brain, but I don't see why metallic chromium would be converted into the most oxidized form of chromium (hexavalent) in a reducing solution, beer.  If you haven't packaged it yet, I would bottle condition so the yeast can eat it and also make the beer even more reductive as an additional safety measure.

Have not packaged, but was planning on bottling.  Right now its sitting in a bottling bucket that has been purged with CO2 at room temp.  I introduced about 2 packs of gelatin, most of which will precipitate out, but maybe I will bottle this saturday/sunday and leave them for a few weeks.  So you think by bottling, the yeast consuming the additional sugars will cause any 'leeched' metallic chromium will precipitate to the bottom (your word, "reductive")?  Will gelatin help, or will that only cling to proteins?

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