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Messages - mpietropaoli

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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WLP565 Belgian Saison I question
« on: February 11, 2016, 09:24:10 AM »
Some say that 565 is also pressure sensitive, so this one might be better left in the primary with loose foil covering it.  Naturally carbonating is fine as long as the yeast is coaxed to completion first - raising the temp is frequently used to get the yeast to finish up.

This.  565/Dupont is a mutated strain of wine yeast used at Brassierie Dupont.  When saisons first became really popular (right when I started brewing), the yeast was confounding homebrewers all over the place.  "Ferment it in the lower 90's!", and "saisons need 2-3 MONTHS to finish" were common forum-perpetuated homebrewing myths. 

After hearing Denny and Drew hypothesize that it was a wine yeast, I started fermenting with it and piece of sanitized foil over the airlock for the first few days, and haven't had a stall since.  Wine yeasts are also known to ferment in the upper 70's and not produce fusels, which Dupont can also do.  I typically go one week at 68, then another week to ten days at 72-74, but am thinking of bumping the initial ferment/pitch temp up the next time we brew with it. 

Get rid of the pressure in the headspace, and it behaves like any other big-attenuating sacc yeast.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Minimizing Oxidation During Dry Hopping
« on: February 11, 2016, 09:13:09 AM »
I'm glad to see some people on here actually use their senses when drinking their beer...

JK JK, big smile.  lolling, repeat.

I do typically appreciate 'easier is better', but not always.  I think this is an area that is far too often brushed under the rug by homebrewers.  Sanitation, ferment temp, ferment time, oxidation, in that order, are the most common problems I taste when evaluating beers brewed at home.  +1 as well to this problem not 'tasting' like oxidation.  It just tastes like not-fresh hoppy beer.

I think we will either add dry hops to a keg, purge, add beer, rack to new keg for serving.  We do have a conical and the ability to drop the yeast and keep it in the same tank.  So we may continue with the latter option as I think racking to a new co2-purged vessel (even if through the dip tube) may be riskier than just adding hops to the conical after the yeast has been dropped). 

VIPA/NEIPA refers to the juicier, heavier mouthfeel, less-bitter hop-forward beers (typically cloudy in appearance) produced by breweries such as Trillium, Foley, Alchemist, Hill Farmstead, Treehouse, Singlecut and others (but most say pioneered by Alchemist) that focus on a balance of the right fruity (typically stone and tropical fruit) esters AND hop aroma.  Essentially, these amount to IPA's that are more dependent on yeast strain and behavior for the final flavor profile, as opposed to a true West Coast which has more of a focus on pure hop aroma, neutral, non-estery yeast strain, often better clarity, with a firmer, lingering bitterness. 

What do you guys say, should I be writing style guidelines or what?

Brew an amber and give that away.  Cellar the RIS  ;D

In all seriousness, make as much of this beer as you can.  We made one on our 14-gallon system in 2014, and I gave a ton away, but now wish I had more.  We brewed Jamil's recipe, had 1/3 of it 'naked', 1/3 aged on bourbon oak spirals, and the other 1/3 aged on grand-marnier oak spirals. 

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Minimizing Oxidation During Dry Hopping
« on: February 09, 2016, 02:16:28 PM »
Right I mean, its definitely not something I am trying to troubleshoot, like "I am having this issue so I need to fix it".  Other than my non-purge screwup, I haven't necessarily noticed CARDBOARD oxidation flavors, but again, my understanding it that oxidation can rear its head in a number of ways.  I just really think that the beers coming out of this area are totally original, and achieving the flavor (and keeping it) is a complex task. 

So this is really just me trying to improve my process to make the best beer possible (that will last as long as possible) ;D

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pressurized Racking/Transfer
« on: February 09, 2016, 01:07:40 PM »
I transfer from better bottles to kegs through the dip tube with gravity. PRV must remain open or a spunding valve needs to be connected to the gas post. It's a very slow transfer.

Nice, thanks, I will probably just try with the PRV open.  Have you noticed any benefit in flavor stability since doing this?

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Minimizing Oxidation During Dry Hopping
« on: February 09, 2016, 01:04:51 PM »

OK, I get that beer can be oxidized by not p[urging.  But is there any evidence, either through research or anecdotally, that dry hopping causes oxidation?

This guy does process engineering at ABI and wrote this as his doctorate thesis.

He says the risk is reduced with pellets as opposed to whole cones, but some oxygen ingress is inevitable with dry hopping (it can be mitigated with purging, flushing the hop material, etc.).  He also had a pretty information-rich Reddit thread, but I don't think he went much into oxidation from dry hopping in it)

Again, anecdotally, Kimmich supposedly has his levels down in (I think) the double-digits per billion, which I have to imagine has some effect on the shelf life of the beer (I have had 8-9 month old Heady and it does change, but it is still excellent).  I also think the yeast in that beer is very good at cleaving glycoside bonds, which makes the beer better over time.  Though thats not verified   :D

Not saying other canning breweries don't achieve the same things with some of their beers, I just haven't tasted them.  So I guess in trying to make a great beer, I am trying to eliminate my process flaws one at a time

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Minimizing Oxidation During Dry Hopping
« on: February 09, 2016, 10:22:18 AM »
Pardon my pragmatism...has anyone ever gotten oxidation due to dry hopping?

Carboardy "this-is-oxidation" oxidation?  No. 

However, I did forget to purge a keg one time, 'quick' force-carbed it, and it was basically like a hand grenade went off in the thing in a few weeks.  Acetaldehyde, intermediate ferment compounds, etc.  A great beer became vile quickly. 

I am after ways to keep my beer tasting better, longer.

I have to believe that at some of the flavor stability of a beer like Heady Topper is due to the infinitesimal exposure it gets to oxygen, absence of aroma scalp of a crown, etc.  Granted, it could partially be a recipe issue (my belief is that NE IPA's/VIPAs are more about esters than hop aroma), but I do know that one of the greatest brewers in the world is fanatical about preventing oxidation.  So to the extent I can minimize it, I am going to follow his lead.

General Homebrew Discussion / Pressurized Racking/Transfer
« on: February 09, 2016, 06:48:48 AM »
Was thinking about transferring from fermenter to corny keg by going from our conical to the 'Beer Out'/Diptube of a CO2-purged keg.  However, will this work simply by gravity?  Our conical has tri-clover clamp connects and is typically elevated from the floor in our ferment chamber.  Not sure how people set these up unless they are actually fermenting in corny kegs. 

Thanks in advance!

General Homebrew Discussion / Minimizing Oxidation During Dry Hopping
« on: February 09, 2016, 06:30:30 AM »
I can't point to this as the reason, but one of the best IPA's I've ever made (and I make a lot of them) used the Tasty McD-ish dry-hopping method at adding at least one round of dry hops during the final 1/3 of fermentation.  The idea being the CO2 being forced out will help to blow off some of the oxygen (this is actually one of my questions...more below), and that you can compensate for aroma blowoff with...well, more dry hops. 

We are trying this on our latest NE/VIPA (sorry I know some people don't like calling them VIPAs, but I just want to delineate that this is not a bone-dry WCIPA) that is currently 9 days post-pitch in a 14 gallon SS conical, fermented with 50% Hill Farmstead and 50% Conan yeast.  Pitched at 68, raised to 72 at 6 days (~70% AA), currently at 72. 

We are going to add the first round of dry hops (Mosaic/Simcoe/Centennial cocktail) now, and I advised my brewing partner to jack the temp to 73 to facilitate more blowoff. 

My first question is relatively open-ended:  how, if at all, do people minimize oxidation when adding dry hops.  I had heard one method of boiling then cooling water (enough to cover the hops), then adding the hops to that water before adding to the beer.  Intuitively, this makes sense, as we would only be adding 5-6 oz of water, hopefully not enough to materially affect gravity in a 14 gallon batch. 

Second question is how does/could blowoff assist in minimizing oxidation (I think the theory is that the oxygen is actually trapped in the pelletized or dried whole cone hops themselves)?  Do the CO2 bubbles simply 'carry' the O2 molecules out of solution as they head out of solution?  I thought that oxidation actually meant oxygen was BINDING to molecules in the beer, in which case, 'northbound' co2 would pass right by the already-bound oxygen. 

I know brewers like Alchemist claim to have proprietary dry hopping techniques that minimize oxidation.  In fact, I read somewhere that a QC analyst looking at Heady Topper thought that his equipment was malfunctioning (!)  This would explain (along with canning) why Heady can hold up for months. 

Any thoughts are appreciated!

I'm really hoping Moore's Law/Wright's Law comes through and I can have one of these in a few years  :)

First of all, thanks for posting this Amanda, and sorry the thread got derailed with hobbyist high-ground.

So just to recap, Bryan criticized Amanda's study because it wasn't actually single infusion vs. step mash (read through the thread, and I guess I still missed why the 'single infusion' isn't single infusion). 

Maybe it wasn't in the most constructive or effective way, but assuming he is correct, he did point out a deficiency, which is ANOTHER REASON WHY FORUMS ARE A GREAT PLACE FOR KNOWLEDGE-SHARING AND COLLABORATION. 

So if we can get past the Shaun Hill-esque purposeful vagueness about why he knows what he knows, my question is this: can a Picobrew simulate a single-infusion mash, or is it impossible because of the system's recirc and nature of the heating element? 

The experiment is still measuring something, just not what you thought.  Is it possible to measure what you thought the next time?

Cheers and thanks again!

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: No head retention in lagers
« on: December 04, 2015, 06:48:55 AM »
Resurrecting this one as I have a German pils with good head formation, but no head retention. 

We brewed 20 gallons of wort (5 of which was used for a saison) and I believe we added about 4 tabs (1 per five gallons as opposed to 1/2 per five gallons). 

I have been searching high and low to diagnose this.  Does excessive whirfloc negatively impact just head retention or head formation?

Great, thanks forth replies all.  Honestly, I only really perceive it when it's first poured. Then as it warms and degasses a bit,this beer is a dream.  Probably need to do some live tasting with some good fellow judges to see what I'm perceiving...

General Homebrew Discussion / BJCP / Sensory Question - DMS = noble hops?
« on: December 12, 2013, 07:32:51 PM »
I am a relatively new BJCP judge, and have judged about a half dozen competitions.  I have had a few instances where I have perceived DMS when the other judges haven't. 

We recently carbed up 3 versions of a 1.080 or so RIS (naked, oak-aged, bourbon oak aged) and I perceive DMS in all of them, particularly when its served on the cold side.  Once its warmed a bit, I get an amazing symphony of bready malt, baker's chocolate, light roast, warming, and some hop flavor. 

I honestly have no idea how this beer could have had DMS.  100 minute boil, in-line therminator, cold pitched US-05, fermented at 66, temp raised to 68 after a week, then 70 for the remainder.  We used magnum to bitter to about 40 IBU, then got the remaining IBU's (total of 80, calculated) from Green Bullet hops, which I'm told are somewhat like Fuggles or EKG, especially when used late.  I am confident in our cleanliness, hot and cold-side processes.  We ferment in a 1/2 bbl stainless steel conical, in a dual-stage temp controlled fridge. 

Any feedback or similar experiences would be appreciated!

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Tanginess in IIPA (BRY-97)
« on: November 17, 2013, 06:00:18 PM »
This could just simply be from the hops.  Trying to find the recipe, and will post it.  I think we may have used Columbus for bittering as opposed to Magnum...another reason to use magnum for hoppy beers!

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