« on: October 31, 2013, 08:49:34 AM »
Agree with the others. He's just running out of gas. When my tank gets that low, my regulators don't give accurate low pressure side readings.
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I have one of those; it's my reference thermometer. FWIW, Arbor has them for $26. http://www.arborsci.com/lab-supplies/measurement/digital-thermometerSame one I have. And it's definitely waterproof. It sat at the bottom of my HLT for about an hour last brew day and still works flawlessly.
I've heard of that technique... It's technical name is paranoia.I wouldn't think that such a small quantity would be a big deal. The guy who works at my LHBS and started a nano brewery told me that some brewers literally spray-bottle Starsan over the top of their beer after pitching the yeast and before sealing the fermentor.
So I guess the logic for spraying star san on top is to kill airborne bacteria and wild yeast that may have settled on the surface of the wort in the few seconds that the lid/bung was removed. I would think the star san would be diluted with wort long before the required 30 or 60 second contact time. Has anyone else heard of this technique? I can't make sense of it.
+1 The $40 bucket water heater on a timer is one of my favorite brewery upgrades. Wake up in the morning, grab a cup of joe, and mash in.Set up equipment, weigh and crush grain, weigh and add water salts.I tend to do the "belt and suspenders" thing with chlorine. For convenience, I fill my pots and buckets the night before and crush and add campden just in case. 8^)This is what I do as well. Prep also includes measuring and crushing the malt, so all I have to do is turn on the burners in the morning.
Having all the water standing ready in the morning saves me time and makes me think about the recipe the night before. Sometimes it makes me realize I missed something on the shopping list.
On addition, use a bucket heater on a timer so that the mash water is at/near strike temp. That way you can mash in first thing in the morning.
Is there a reason why the gas lines should be 5/16" instead of 1/4"? The reason why I ask is because I'm seeing 1/4" barbed distributors. (After looking at the prices, I think I'm going with a 4 way distributor as opposed to a 4 way regulator). 1/4" swivel nuts, hose, and distributor are all cheaper than 5/16", so I was just wondering if there's a significant reason why 5/16" is the norm for a gas line.I use 3/16" line for the beer side and the gas side. Saves me the hassle of buying two different size lines. Instead I can buy 3/16" in bulk (50 ft or 100 ft box) and use it everywhere. And yes, you can fit 3/16" line onto 1/4" barbs, just run it under hot water first to soften it up.
I've been enjoying a healthy % of... wait for it...Yep, this is what I do too. I don't have the recipe in front of me, but I think it's close to 15% Munich. I'd avoid any cara/crystal malts.
munich malt in my saisons. right around 20%.
the saison yeast and some added simple sugar will ensure that the munich doesn't make things too malty but it gives a lovely orange hint to the color and a little more complexity in malt profile.