I use that exact same cooler with a stainless steel braid and couldn't be any happier.
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I might order a sack or two of the Rahr 2-row. How is it?I really like the Rahr 2-row. I'm about 2/3 of the way through a sack right now. I've made a couple APA's and a stout with it as my base malt and been very pleased. My last sack of 2-row was Briess. I prefer the Rahr.
Still can't get over free shipping. Some of you will say they make it up in the price but I'm already paying the equivalent with less choice. I bet there'll be some pissed off fedex or ups dudes carrying in those multi-bag orders...
Just want to say that you want to have a fresh air inlet in your basement.I almost wish I hadn't seen that link. I'm in the process of finishing my basement, and my utility room could easily fit all my brewing gear. I wonder if my wife would even notice a couple burners, exhaust fans, some extra plumbing... Hmmm... She'll probably never even set foot in that room.
John Blichmann had some good stuff in his presentation, pages 17-21 if I counted right. There are some other things that are really good to think about in the presentation.
I'm going to have to try this. I had no idea that the theory was disproved. Thanks! Now that I think about it, I just finished reading Yeast by Chris White and Jamil, and I don't recall them ever mentioning bringing the yeast up to pitching temps.The reason I do it is to slowly introduce the yeast to the temp of the beer to avoid shocking it. Read it somewhere and have adopted it into my brewing practice. I have never pitched straight from the fridge so I can't say if it works or not. YMMV. Cheers!!!
FWIW, I've done it both ways and now I'm straight form the fridge and into the beer. The temp shock theory is outdated and has been disproved. The current theory is that the yeast will start using up their glycogen reserves once they warm up and become active and you want that to happen in the beer, not before the yeast gets there. I find I get far better yeast performance by pitching cold. I'd encourage you to try it a few times and compare for yourself. At the very least, there's no downside.
I have a prototype item that I am still perfecting that I use in this application. In essence, what I have done to my 10 gallon fermenting keg is took the beer out tube out, put in another gas in tube, attached 4 feet of plastic line to the replaced tube, and put a float on the end of the tube with a screen.Nice. And instead of seeing brilliantly clear beer for the last few pints out of the keg, now you get it to start. When you see cloudy beer... start carbing the next keg!
In essence what this does is pulls liquid out of the keg from the top layer of the liquid in the keg and gradually goes down as the level in the keg is emptied. I have a few issues to work out so its fool proof, but it works for the most part. If I get it all perfected I will sell them as beerbobbers.
Here is a crude paint picture of what I am doing.
Well I really wanted to get a blue rectangular cooler to convert to a mash-tun but unfortunately I found a red one tucked away in my barn. I think I'm going to spray paint it so i can get that 110% efficiency that I keep reading about.Don't worry. You can compensate by boiling longer to get to 110%.
It would be much easier to just connect the low pressure gauge from the primary regulator to the input on the secondary regulator bank. Dial the primary low pressure gauge up to whatever is higher than you want from your secondary regulators, and you're done. Easy peasy.This is the way to go. Also, check the max psi for the secondary regulators. I have one that says don't exceed 200 psi, so it wouldn't work being hooked up to the high pressure side. Ask me how I know that...