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Messages - DrewG

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301
All Grain Brewing / Re: First All Grain brew
« on: March 09, 2012, 08:49:56 AM »
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Check your new cooler for leaks before brew day.  Fill it all the way up with water and let it sit for 20 minutes.  It's a lot easier to fix a leak without 3 gallons of hot water and 10lbs of grain inside.

On brew day, relax and roll with whatever might happen.  Have fun with it.

Never thought of that. The thought of my 1st AG wort draining onto the floor.....not good

302
All Grain Brewing / Re: First All Grain brew
« on: March 09, 2012, 08:47:50 AM »
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Do you plan to batch sparge or fly sparge?

Batch ala Mr Denny

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I would calibrate my boil kettle- you need to know how much is coming out. Might be a good idea to run water through the MLT and see how much remains when it quits draining- not sure if it will be exactly the same as when you mash/lauter but it will give you an idea.  You may want to take a lot more measurements than you did when extract brewing.  I'd figure what/when/how to take those.

Got my old cruddy plastic spoon marked for the big boil kettle, planning on a 2nd set of marks in a dif color for my 5g sparge water pot. Will check the MLT tonight, great idea.

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What will you do with your spent grains?

They're going into the garden. Maybe a few spoonful's on the kibble for the dogs.

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Make sure you have everything lined up and prepared ahead of time.  I like to make sure that I have a sixer cooled and someone to help drink it.  BBQ also helps.

All good ideas, thanks so much for the input

303
All Grain Brewing / First All Grain brew
« on: March 08, 2012, 04:17:38 PM »
Picking up my mash tun (10 gallon Gott (I know, it isn't blue) with a ss false bottom) tomorrow, brewing saturday morning. Pretty geeked about it too. 

Since I have no idea what my efficiency is going to be, I thought I'd shoot for a Scottish 80/. I'm guessing I won't come in too high, and it'll give me the wiggle room between 1.030 for a 60/ up to 1.054 for the 80/. Not planning on a starter for this one since I don't know what my gravity will be so I'm just picking up 2 vials of 001 which covers me if I need a smaller or larger pitch.

All of that aside, any advice, tips, tricks, things that might pop up I'm not expecting etc that come to mind would be helpful. Thanks in advance

304
Ingredients / Re: Grain crush
« on: March 07, 2012, 12:39:26 PM »
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from morebeer.com and had them crush it. I don't recall seeing broken grains, they all seemed intact.

I got a "Janets Brown" kit from morebeer last night and had the exact thought when I looked at the bag of 2 row.

305
Equipment and Software / Re: Prioritizing Next Equipment Purchase
« on: March 07, 2012, 12:34:47 PM »
+267000 on temp control. I got all my ducks in a row on the cold side first, went to full boil extract beers second, now I'm going to all grain.

306
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: stuck ferment????
« on: March 06, 2012, 07:44:25 AM »
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What yeast did you use? Maybe it flocced out too early? The first thing I'd do is try rousing the yeast.

That and raise the temp a couple of degrees if you have temp control. Helped me finish a sweet stout that quit after 3 days.

307
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: First brew day mistakes
« on: March 05, 2012, 11:26:52 AM »
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If I only had a flux capacitor. Oh, the things I would tell six weeks ago me.

+100

308
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Entered my first contest
« on: March 05, 2012, 11:24:18 AM »
Awesome, best of luck to you

309
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Aging
« on: March 05, 2012, 11:01:08 AM »
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Regardless, I believe it is important to taste the product at all phases- particularly as soon as it is racked and once carbonated. Going by advice or a "rule of thumb" just gets you into the ballpark. You need to figure it out yourself by tasting and drinking sooner than later. Then you can make decisions as to quality and how it may change over a few days, weeks and up to years.

I do taste them all through the process, but I'm always curious what other folks think.

My recent observations on a Citra/Amarillo Pale Ale we did were interesting. I was afraid I had some chill haze a week after they had carbed nicely, and I suppose it was chill haze as they were clear going into the fridge then hazed up. I didn't let them warm back up to see if it left or not. At three weeks after carbing up the haze is gone, cold or otherwise.
Early on the bitterness was harsher, and hop aroma was stronger.
Hop flavor and bitterness is much more present the colder this beer is
After it warms in the glass its much mellower, and the caramel malt pops through a lot more.

All in all it seems at about 3 weeks it was more "complete" if that makes any sense.

310
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Aging
« on: March 05, 2012, 06:58:41 AM »
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the higher the alcohol the longer I let them sit and age.

Even hoppy beers?

311
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Aging
« on: March 02, 2012, 03:23:03 PM »
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anything of 'normal' gravity that is not meant to be consumed very fresh (milds, bitters, IPA's etc) about 1-3 weeks after packageing

If you were bottle conditioning, would you include the 10 days or so it takes to carbonate?

312
Kegging and Bottling / Re: cold crash....freeze??
« on: March 02, 2012, 02:20:08 PM »
I've laid hands on a spare fridge for summer fermentations/lagering etc. No more winter outdoor cold crashing.

313
Kegging and Bottling / Aging
« on: March 02, 2012, 02:16:46 PM »
How long do you age before you consider a beer is at its best flavor? I know this varies a ton between  different styles, but maybe pick one, or even a couple.

314
Ingredients / Grain storage
« on: March 02, 2012, 02:06:08 PM »
How long can I keep pre-crushed grain around before it goes over? Storing in big ziplocks in another tightly sealed heavy plastic bag in low humidity. I'm going to get a mill but other expenses have taken priority.

Thanks

315
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If you ever decide to go all grain make sure you buy a blue cooler

+1
I bought an orange one and my brewshed burned to the ground the very next day.

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