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Messages - greatplainsbrewer

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Ingredients / Re: Galaxy Pale Ale Water
« on: August 13, 2017, 12:41:36 AM »
It was ok.  No trouble getting rid of it.  Beer wasn't as fruity as I'd hoped- first time using galaxy hops.  Probably won't repeat it

Equipment and Software / Re: CO2 regulator
« on: August 03, 2017, 01:55:55 PM »
We have a winner- thanks SlowBrew

Figured I didn't have much to lose so I disassembled the regulator.  The diaphragm had some small debris on it so I wiped it clean and reassembled it.  Seems to work now.

Thanks for the responses

Equipment and Software / Re: CO2 regulator
« on: August 02, 2017, 06:11:47 PM »
I don't think it's leaking- I use it to carb kegs.  It was hooked up for at least two weeks without me checking it before yesterday.  I would have thought a leak would have emptied that 5 pound cylinder.

Equipment and Software / CO2 regulator
« on: August 01, 2017, 07:47:34 PM »
I have a kegco co2 regulator purchased in Nov 2015 that i use to carbonate kegs and bottle with a beergun.  Today was pretty challenging.  I released the pressure on the keg and tried to reduce the pressure at the regulator.  I could bring it down to 10 psi but any lower resulted in no co2 pressure at the beer gun.  A slight, like less than 15 degree turn of the regulator put it back at 10 psi.  It will go higher than that but not lower.  Surely a regulator less than two years old isn't shot.  My oxy-acetylene regulators are older than I am and theyre still going strong.

Any thoughts?

Equipment and Software / Re: Keezer wood size for collar
« on: July 18, 2017, 05:18:48 PM »
Running the taps through the collar?  Should be fine.  I used 2x4's but it is a coffin keezer.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Phosphoric Acid amounts?
« on: July 08, 2017, 02:57:43 PM »
I realize this is an old thread but I have a few questions on this topic.  I have been using Bruunwater for several years and my beer is definitely better for it. My source water has 284 ppm bicarbonates so I've had to make significant adjustments to it.  I cut it with distilled water and often start with >50% distilled water.  I usually use CaCl, CaSo4, and lactic acid to adjust my water and really don't ever go above 1 ml/gallon of finished beer with the lactic acid for fear of an unwanted flavor contribution.  I recently picked up a bottle of 10% phosphoric acid at my HBS.  It is my understanding that phosphoric acid has no/limited flavors so that it could be used in greater quantities.  I realize that 10% is a fairly weak solution and would require more to be effective.  I just ran the numbers on a beer (2B) that I want to brew tomorrow (42% pils, 42% vienna, 14% corn, and 2% midnight wheat).  I used lactic acid to correct the mash.  I cut the sparge with 50% distilled water but still need to add 33ml of phosphoric acid to bring the sparge pH down to 5.5.  My question is whether this is a good idea- seems like a lot.

Ingredients / Re: Best bitter water profile
« on: May 27, 2017, 10:56:21 PM »
So the PA profile with 200 ppm sulfate?  Would you change any other mineral levels?

Ingredients / Best bitter water profile
« on: May 27, 2017, 09:57:34 PM »
Brewing a best bitter tomorrow.  I'm a long time Bruunwater user-thanks Martin- but Im a little leery of the Pale Ale profile on this one.  Does anyone have experience with this?  Is that amount of sulfate OK on this style?


Ingredients / Re: Galaxy Pale Ale Water
« on: February 11, 2017, 10:53:39 PM »
FWH and late.  1450. 

Ingredients / Re: Galaxy Pale Ale Water
« on: February 11, 2017, 02:38:18 PM »
OP again.  No this isn't a NEIPA but I was wondering about water treatment and fruitier hops, specifically Galaxy.  I appreciate the input and will be brewing this weekend.  Looks like I'll go back more toward a traditional pale ale water with the following:

Ca  93
Mg  4
Na  23
Sulfate  152
Chloride  49
pH  5.28

Ingredients / Re: Galaxy Pale Ale Water
« on: February 07, 2017, 01:33:05 AM »
I won't be brewing for a few days but this is what I have on Bruunwater right now.

Calcium  149
Mg           5
Na           4
Sulfate     80
Chloride    153

Mash pH is projected to be 5.38.  Again this isn't a NEIPA, its a 1.052 APA with an all Galaxy hop schedule.  FWH, 10, 5, 0, Dry

I would say Nero has it about right.  I would also add my usual advice on gas- if at all possible get a hold of a test rig and test it with compressed air before using it.  Properly assembled gas systems are great- improperly assembled systems are bombs.

Ingredients / Galaxy Pale Ale Water
« on: February 05, 2017, 09:09:47 PM »
I realize that Galaxy isn't a new hop but this will be my first pale ale with Galaxy hops.  I usually get pretty close to the Pale Ale profile in BruunWater when I make APA's but I did an APA last year using mostly Citra that seemed a little harsh.  I'm wondering if I dial back the sulfates quite a bit if it won't be better with the fruitier hops. By "dialed back" I mean 125 sulfate/102 chloride.  Don't get me wrong- for my more "traditional" Centennial, CTZ, Cascade types of pale ales I really like the Pale Ale water profile.  Just wondering if some of the fruitier hops wouldn't benefit from a more balanced sulfate/chloride ratio.

I realize that to each his own-why else homebrew?- but I'm wondering if anyone has gone down this path and is willing to share?


Kegging and Bottling / Re: mastered kegging...issues when I bottle
« on: August 15, 2016, 11:03:53 AM »
Not sure I'm reading this correctly but if the beer is fully carbed in the keg you don't need to add carbonation tabs to the bottle when you bottle off a keg.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: beer gun
« on: August 06, 2016, 01:17:29 PM »
I can't say I've done 3.5 volumes before, but I've bottled plenty of beers using my beer gun with such minimal foaming that I often "finish" the bottle with a blast of CO2 to create some foam for capping.

Cold, speed and gravity are your friends here. You mentioned chilling the bottles, but to maximize impact I'd recommend getting the beer, the line, the gun and the bottles to 34F. Also chill a pint glass and run some off into the glass for yourself. This helps equilibrate everything (including you) ;)

Once things are cold and flowing, pay attention to keeping things cold and flowing. If you set the gun down for a few minutes to get more bottles or caps, the beer in the line will warm up. Pumping beer that's warmed in the line into a colder bottle will produce foam. Pumping cold beer into a warm bottle will produce foam. Yes, there are a lot of ways to screw this up.

Also, pay attention to the impact of gravity. Blichmann mentioned this on an old episode of Brew Strong. Just like draft serving setups, you can drop pressure either by adding more line or by adding a vertical rise. I tend to bottle on a desk with the keg sitting on the floor, so that vertical rise is probably helping me out there.

Hope this helps!
Gravity helped.  Bottling at the ceiling got the job done.  It's a low fill but it's still a fill.  Thanks

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