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Topics - ccfoo242

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91
Ingredients / Rule of thumb for using lactic acid for pH reduction
« on: March 13, 2012, 06:26:24 PM »
I imagine this had been addressed before, but I've been wading through dozens of posts of various sites and can't seem to find what I'm looking for.

Is there a rule of thumb for using lactic acid to reduce mash pH?  Like, X ml lactic acid per pound of grain, or per gallon of mash water to reduce pH by 0.1?

I'm looking for something that will help on brew day when for whatever reason my pH is too high.

Again, sorry if this has been addressed before, I just haven't been able to find it.

92
I told my co-workers I couldn't come in today because I had explosive diarrhea:


 ;D ;D ;D

I've read horror stories of fermentation pressures shattering glass carboys when airlocks get clogged, so I'm glad this happened in the plastic bottle. There was at least a half bottle of beer on the bottom of the freezer:



Using my lunch hour to get a blowoff tube from the LHBC...lesson learned!  ::)

93
General Homebrew Discussion / NHC video/live feed
« on: March 11, 2012, 05:10:54 PM »
Are there plans to offer streaming coverage of the NHC?  As an example of where this has been done and seems to work well is Blizzard's Blizzcon. Since the conference can only handle around 1000 people offering video coverage of it would be a great way for many more people to experience it.  The way Blizzard does it, you pay for access to a live feed and then also have access to a DVR-like feature for a year afterward, so you can watch everything at your leisure.

94
All Grain Brewing / pH questions
« on: March 11, 2012, 02:57:36 PM »
Today was my 3rd all grain brew and I have some questions regarding mash pH, pre-boil pH, and post-boil pH.

I brewed an oatmeal stout (the one in Brewing Classic Styles) so my grain bill looked like this:
9.4 lbs british pale ale malt
1 lbs oats (toasted in the oven)
12 oz chocolate malt
12 oz victory malt
8 oz black barley
8 oz crystal 80

I used the Bru'n Water spreadsheet to calculate my water additions, using Black Balanced as my target.

I diluted my filtered tap water with 50% distilled which gave me a starting water profile like this:
Calcium 39.0
Magnesium 17.0
Sodium 19.0
Sulfate 82.5
Chloride 38.5
Bicarbonate 67.0
Cations 4.2
Anions 3.9
Total Hardness 167
Alkalinity 55   
RA 18
SO4/Cl ratio 2.1

My mash water volume was 3.7 gallons. I added 0.4g baking soda and 1.5g pickling lime to arrive at this:
Calcium 96.1
Magnesium 17.0
Sodium 26.2
Sulfate 82.5
Chloride 38.5
Bicarbonate 260.1
Cations 7.3
Anions 7.1
Total Hardness 310
Alkalinity 215
RA 137
SO4/Cl ratio 2.1

Additionally, I added 3g gypsum, 1.6g calcium chloride, 2.9ml lactic acid to the sparge water, per the spreadsheet.

The estimated room temperature mash pH was 5.3.

After 15 minutes of mashing, I stirred the mash then took a sample from the top.
pH at 15 minutes was 5.8 at 70F

pH of 1st runnings was 5.5 at 70F
pH of pre-boil wort was 5.5 at 70F
pH of post-boil wort was 6.5 at 70F <--- ???

Do these pH numbers look appropriate?  I checked my meter prior to brewing with 4 & 7 calibration liquid and
 it was fine.

If I remove all of the darker grains from the spreadsheet the estimated pH shoots up to 6.4. Is it possible that the spreadsheet is overestimating the dark malt's pH lowering magic (yes, it's magic, at least until I understand it! :-)

95
Ingredients / How's my water? [Oatmeal Stout]
« on: March 07, 2012, 08:05:54 PM »
Brewing an oatmeal stout this weekend...

Using Bru'n Water's "Black Balanced" water profile and mixing my filtered tap water with 50% distilled:


There's an option on the water adjustment tab to add gypsum and calcium chloride to the sparge water...do I need to use that?  If I check it then it adds 2.2 grams of gypsum and 1.2 grams of calcium chloride.

96
Ingredients / Grain crush
« on: March 07, 2012, 08:40:08 AM »
I'm going to guess that the answer to this question is "if it works for you then don't worry about it" but I thought I would put it out there anyway.

The first all grain batch I brewed was something I ordered from morebeer.com and had them crush it. I don't recall seeing broken grains, they all seemed intact.

After that I got my grain from the local shop and this is how it was crushed:


Zoomed in:


Does that seem excessive? I didn't have any stuck sparge issue but I did go over the estimated pre-boil gravity by 5 points (add to that greater than expected boil-off and the OG was 8 points higher than expected).


97
Don't stick your head down in it then inhale!

I noticed this morning the tape holding temp probe onto the side of the carboy was coming off. So I reached down to slap a new piece of tape on and nearly passed out from the fumes! Burned all the way into my chest!

Duh! CO2 is heavier than air so the thing was filled with CO2 and whatever other crap the yeasties were belching up.


98
After purchasing a cheaper stainless boil kettle I worried that my crappy burner didn't disperse the heat well enough and would scorch my wort. So after lots of searching I found a post on another site that mentioned using a specific type of aluminum plate from Mcmaster-Carr, and it would do a good job of spreading the heat under the pot.

Well, I did that, and here's the result:


 :o :o :o

This happened yesterday. I heard my burner start making a racket and looked down to see molten aluminum dropping from it. I cut the gas, cursed (not necessarily in that order), then waited for the metal to cool. I was able to clean most of it out of the burner, but I have a few jets that are clogged now.

I think I'll hang the plate up in my garage as a reminder...

99
All Grain Brewing / Mash temp too low
« on: March 04, 2012, 12:57:14 PM »
Hey all,
I ended up with a mash temp of 149 instead of 153 for the pale ale I'm brewing today. To make matters worse I didn't realize this until my tun was full to the top so I couldn't add water.

Just how much drier will this make the final beer? I'm willing to leave it as is, but is there anything that can be done post-mash to compensate for the temp mistake?

Do I just mash for a longer time? 

100
Commercial Beer Reviews / SNPA in a can
« on: March 03, 2012, 08:38:28 PM »
Am I just letting my pre-conceived bias against canned beers mess with my palate or is Sierra Nevada Pale Ale in a can over-carbonated?

I made sure I bought some that was recently bottled (Jan 30th).

Meh... :-\

101
Hey all,

After hearing an old interview with a Sierra Nevada brewer, then reading the Ask The Experts questions/answers from them, I'm now confused about how to ferment SNPA.

The interview (an old one from The Session) said they ferment all their ales the same, starting at 60F then letting it rise to 68.

In the Ask The Experts questions, there is one that talks about fermentation (not their beers specifically) and they suggested people pitch at 65 then rise to 68.

So which should I do? I now have a freezer/temp controller so I can pitch at whatever temp.

Has anyone brewed beerfan's SNPA clone? http://forum.northernbrewer.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=15532

Any suggestions?

102
I get various local produce delivered to my office every other week. One of the options I have is to include some locally produced honey (I'm in north Florida). So I've been wondering if there's anything I can do with that in beer.

It was always my understanding that honey in the fermentor doesn't actually contribute much, if any, flavor. Is this correct?

If I wanted to create a pale ale, or an IPA, that accentuated things that remind me of Florida (citrus, pine) I know I can get that from hops. But can I get something subtle from adding honey somewhere in the brewing process?


[edit]
Here's a picture of the honey, in case color matters:

103
Found this today and thought I would share, its from the makers of the Thermapen:

The Truth About Ice Baths: Five Secrets Revealed

104
Beer Recipes / What makes a recipe "yours"?
« on: February 28, 2012, 10:25:56 AM »
At what point can someone legitimately say a recipe is theirs, or uniquely theirs?

105
Equipment and Software / I hope this pump is strong enough...
« on: February 23, 2012, 09:56:59 PM »
After a disappointingly long wait for my wort to cool last weekend I started reading about how I could improve the performance of an immersion chiller. (25 feet of 3/8" copper and I live in Florida where the water aint so cold)

The bulk of the suggestions pointed to switching to ice water somewhere around 120F and letting a submersible pump recirculate the cold water.

So, I ordered this one: 264 GPH Submersible Fountain Pump

Has anyone else used a similar setup with success or did I aim too low and get a pump that is too weak? (yes, I know, I should have posted this before ordering it)

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