What size tubing are you using, and what kind of racking cane? I've found that 3/8 on a plastic racking cane can have a loose fit and cause problems siphoning, but 1/4 is fine.
This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
A RA of zero is ideally suited to brewing the palest of beers. In my opinion, there is no need to produce negative RA values for any beer styles. A negative RA means that your mash is more likely to descend into a lower than optimal pH range which can produce a more acidic taste, a more fermentable wort, and less body. The charts or algorthyms that present negative RA are only there to show that you can produce that condition. I have seen no reference that suggests that a brewer should try to mash under that condition.
The difference is, with your lambic you have bugs in there to digest the starches, the saison yeast won't take care of them.
I started batch sparging about five or six batches ago. I use a square 5 gal Coleman cooler set up like Denny's larger cooler. I have my grain milled at my LHBS, so I don't know what setting is used on the mill. The LHBS has high turnover of product so I am sure that it is as fresh as most/any.
The first four batches had an absorbtion rate of between .10 and .13, which seems about on par with most of the information avail on batch sparging. But the last two batches have had a rate of .27.
Yesterday's brew was with:
5.5 lbs Maris Otter
.75 lb Caramel Malt - 40
.5 lb Victory
.5 lb Flaked Wheat
I mashed in with 9.06 qts water (1.25 qts/lb) which should have left aprox 8 qts avail in my first running. I need a boil volume of 4 gals, so this would work out great to divide the two runnings in half. After I recirculated, the run stopped at 6.5 qts. I thought maybe it stuck, so when I looked inside to stir there was no visable liquid. I tried anyway and got no additional liqiud. I added the 8 qts of water for the second running, and after the recirculation I drew off all 8 qts before it stopped again.
Since this same thing happened the last session, I was very careful to correctly measure the water at each step especially the first 9.06 qts.
In the end, every thing turned out just fine because I forgot to allow for the space that my 3.75 lbs DME would take up in the pot, if I had gotten the full 4 gal boil volume, I would have been too full. But, I am still wondering what is causing my absorbtion rate to be so high.
I've posted this before, but it works so damn well that I feel like I need to keep pimping it : ) I made a hop stopper for my new 20 gallon kettle as described in the first post of this thread:
He only stitched up one side with stainless thread before he gave up... I didn't bother at all. If you fold the edges where two sides meet, flatten the crease with a hammer, and then do it again, it stays together just fine.
I did Vinnie's pliny clone last month (17 ounces of hops in the kettle, and only 2 of them were whole leaf) and was able to pump through my plate chiller at normal speed with no issues at all.
The one I made was a dud. It's my experience that they don't perform well with pellet hops and immersion chillers. Cooler wort and pellet hops plug up the HopStopper, at least in my experience.
2nd Update 9/19/2010
Jeff opened his eyes and was blinking today completely on his own for 10 minutes. This time he appeared to be tracking objects. He was also moving his thumb around and appeared to be irritated and was squirming around a bit in bed. Looks like the steroids might be working their magic. Let's hope and pray this is true.
Donate to Jeff via Paypal