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Messages - narvin

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61
If you suspect your CO2 has O2 contamination, you might want to look into sparge carbonation.
https://tapintohach.com/2014/01/27/how-the-purity-of-sparged-carbon-dioxide-affects-the-oxygen-concentration-of-beer/

If I am reading this correctly, force carbonating via the beverage-out post rather than the gas-in post is the superior method, resulting in less DO.  Do I have that right?

My understanding is that you have to have a spunding valve set to your target pressure ( or usually a bit higher -- overpressure) and bubble the CO2 through at a higher rate, release it to the atmosphere.  Without a carbonation stone, I can't imagkne this would be efficient at home.

62
Which size canister is this?  I ordered the 11" one, which they claim can hold 10oz comfortably.


Ironically, the 18" from these guys:
http://www.stainlessbrewing.com/Dry-Hopper-with-twist-cap-currently-out-of-stock_p_155.html

In theory, should've given a buttload of hops plenty of room to dissolve fully. Didn't dissolve fully in the center at IPA rates. In fairness, most of the goodness had to have gotten out because I didn't perceive a major dropoff. But I just didn't want to put hops into it at IPA rates to only mostly dissolve.

Yeah, I have two of those from Stainless Brewing (a 10" and an 18").  I agree that you probably don't want to put more than 3 oz. of pellets in the smaller one.

That said, I think they work well if you don't overload.

Maybe I should add rice hulls  ;)

I'm going to try it with 7-8 oz in the keg and let you know.  The beer will be fermenting the last 4-6 points so maybe the action and rising CO2 will help mix. 

63
If you suspect your CO2 has O2 contamination, you might want to look into sparge carbonation.
https://tapintohach.com/2014/01/27/how-the-purity-of-sparged-carbon-dioxide-affects-the-oxygen-concentration-of-beer/


Fascinating... I had no idea there was a difference.  This perhaps answers some of my questions about home vs commerical force carbing and why there would be a difference, aside from possibly getting better CO2.

I've given it 5-7 days @ room temp for IPAs and ended up with partially dissolved pellets in the middle. To be clear, I dry hop AIPA/IIPA 5-6+ oz per corny. At my dry hop rate of 2.5 - 3 oz for APA, the canister worked fine. There's definitely a volume threshold.

Which size canister is this?  I ordered the 11" one, which they claim can hold 10oz comfortably.

https://www.utahbiodieselsupply.com/brewingfilters.php#cornydryhopper
Marvin, did you use any other low oxygen techniques?   Reason I ask is because it's REALLY amplifies the sharp decline.


Good question 8)  I didn't necessarily want this to turn into a low-o2 brewing thread, but yes, I did.  The water was preboiled and a mix of smb/aa/brewtan went into the liquor as well as some more brewtan before the whirlpool.  The non-low O2 aspects were a copper pickup tube and a therminator (copper brazing, I think), and not spunding.  I've noticed marked changes after force carbonating in the past, so this isn't just a lark, and it hasn't really mattered if the beer was in the primary for 2 weeks or 4; the change happens quickly after kegging.

I think my plan of attack is to split this recipe next time into two kegs: one primed before transfering to naturally carbonate, and one that is actually transferred on day 4 and allowed to finish in the keg with a spunding valve and the dry hops in the strainer canister.

64
Curious to those who use the canister: do you dry hop at room temperature or lagering temperature?  In my fermenter the pellet hops float until I chill, and then they promptly compact nicely at the bottom.  I would hope that filling it half way and starting warm when fermentation is still active would let them all hydrate, but I guess I'll find out!

65
Have you considered keg hopping?  I dry hop during primary and in the keg for NEIPAs.  My NEIPAs experience rapid change initially probably due to some oxygen exposure due primarily to keg hopping, the keg hop oils dissolving, and yeast dropping out.  Typically (well 3-4 batches) my NEIPAs stabilize after 2-3 weeks and stay strong for 3 months.

I have.  In fact I just bought one of these:
http://arborfab.com/115-Dry-Hopper-for-Corny-Keg_p_66.html

I'm still curious about alternatives, as well as measuring the effect of force carbing on my other beers.

66
First, I would love to see your recipe of this best IPA ever.

The grain bill was pretty standard for an IPA with some raw wheat added, but that part is definitely not necessary.  OG 1.068.    The hop schedule for a 11.5 gallon post boil volume was:

0.50 oz.    Columbus   Pellet   12.90   10.6   60 min
1.50 oz.    Columbus   Pellet   12.90   11.6   10 min
2.00 oz.    Columbus   Pellet   12.90   0.0   0 min
5.00 oz.    Equanot   Pellet   15.30   0.0   0 min

The kettle pH was adjusted to 5.2 room temp with phosphoric acid.  Cl-So4 ratio was around 1:1 with both being around 100.

0 Minute hops were in the whirlpool for 30 minutes after chilling to 180.


Dry hops on day 4 in the primary for what ended up being only 9 gallons into the fermenter (thanks to hop screen problems on a new system).  Kegged after 2 weeks total.

6.00 oz.    Citra   Pellet   13.30   0.0   Dry Hop
6.00 oz.    Equanot   Pellet   15.30   0.0   Dry Hop
3.00 oz.    Columbus   Pellet   12.90   0.0   Dry Hop

Edit: Oh yeah, yeast was WLP007

67
Dry hopping was during primary for this one on day 4, and it was two weeks later from that day that is was at its best.  So the kegging is very suspect.

68

Sorry for your loss Narvin, that sucks!

It's a learning experience.  And it's better to have loved and lost, right?

69
Sounds familiar.

1.  I intend to try a very light sulfite /ascorbic mixture to help with this. The dose that is just imperceptible is the amount I want to find.




After reading this in Handbook of Brewing I was planning on trying a 60:40 blend of ascorbic acid and potassium metabisulfite.  Sodium erythorbate seems to be a direct substitute for AA used for cost.

The other option is to add priming soultion, wait an hour or so for yeast to wake up, and transfer as I did to the keg.  The benefit here is that I like to keep all the dry hop crap out of the keg.  I might try both ways to compare the results.

70
Assuming that the best CO2 you can get is 30 ppm, this is 30 mg/L.  If your beer happens to be around 1 volume of CO2 (a swag) before carbing to 2.5, you'd be adding 1.5 volumes, so that would end up being 45 ppm in your final beer I'd think.

I know that theoretically this could be significant, but the effect was stark when experienced.  Has anyone tried measuring the DO content of deoxygenated water that was then carbonated?  Might be interesting to see and could be accomplished with a soda bottle and carboy cap.  It's possible that much of the CO2 sold from welding shops as beverage grade is anything but.

71
So I was sick of sending water down the drain with my wort chiller, so I opened my window, put my wort chiller drain tube out the window, and stuffed it into my hose (a perfect fit, but used some duck tape to hold it in place) and watered my lawn with sprinkler. The Faucet pressure was not nearly as high as the garden hose hook up outside, but it was enough to pressure to make the sprinkler slooooowly oscillate and water the lawn! Got to feel good about chilling my beer and not wasting water. Took a couple pictures, but I can't figure out how to attach them.

I can't get past the fact that you are concerned with saving water but you water your lawn.

Well, if you already have a lawn, the proper care of it can have an impact on its health and the health of the planet.

https://earthobservatory.nasa.gov/Features/Lawn/lawn3.php
Point taken.

Of course I agree that there are likely a lot of people who over-water and fertilize.  But this was something interesting I saw the other day, so I figured I'd share  :)

72
I'm also not sure that what I'm getting is food grade, or that the filling of the bottle hasn't created some increased O2 content.  Of course, I always ask if it's beverage grade, and they say yes wherever I buy it, but...

73
On day 3, the beer was already cold.  It's possible that a large amount of oils/yeast bound to hops dropped to the bottom by then and were consumed.  However:

1) Even the very last pint was amazing that night.
2) 2 days later, it seems likely that more would have dropped to the bottom and would have been pulled by the diptube in the first pint.
3) The beer is still quite cloudy now.

74
That's interesting. I guess I'm not sure what the sulfites and ascorbic acid is supposed to accomplish that you don't get by pushing sanitizer out with CO2. Would you mind explaining your thought process behind that?

Also, is it possible that the temperature change may be behind it? Did you crash before dry hopping and kegging? Any chance the hop oils bound to some particles that dropped out?

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

The idea is that the CO2 we buy as food/beverage grade is only 99% pure (or so... would have to look up the specifics).  Even if a fraction of that 1% is air, that is a significant dissolved oxygen to add when you're carbing to 2.5 volumes.

75
So I was sick of sending water down the drain with my wort chiller, so I opened my window, put my wort chiller drain tube out the window, and stuffed it into my hose (a perfect fit, but used some duck tape to hold it in place) and watered my lawn with sprinkler. The Faucet pressure was not nearly as high as the garden hose hook up outside, but it was enough to pressure to make the sprinkler slooooowly oscillate and water the lawn! Got to feel good about chilling my beer and not wasting water. Took a couple pictures, but I can't figure out how to attach them.

I can't get past the fact that you are concerned with saving water but you water your lawn.

Well, if you already have a lawn, the proper care of it can have an impact on its health and the health of the planet.

https://earthobservatory.nasa.gov/Features/Lawn/lawn3.php

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