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Messages - narvin

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I use a hop stand for hop forward beers and I like the results. I don't necessarily think it's adding something; instead, I think chilling too fast wastes late hops. Recipes with 10 minute, 5 minute and knockout hops come from commercial brewing, where you'll be whirlpooling and then transferring for at least an hour.

I don't think the hop stand is a replacement for dry hopping, nor for bittering hops.  In fact, I'll usually still have multiple additions throughout the boil.  I know all late hopping, extra fresh beers are the rage right now, but I think multiple additions add more complexity, bitterness, and stability due to the isomerization of the alpha and beta acids.

I also don't chill at all before the hop stand.  I'd prefer to keep my beer as hot as possible before chilling and pitching.  At homebrew scale, cooling happens naturally and pretty quickly.  You may be able to get more dry hop like aromas from a lower temperature, but I'm going to dry hop too.

It seems to me like the hop stand is a valuable tool, but people are trying to make it the only tool in the shed.  I find that it's a good addition for homebrewing the traditional Pliny clone recipe, but I prefer that one to the late hop only beers.

Equipment and Software / Re: another burner recommendation thread
« on: December 02, 2014, 03:33:18 PM »
My friend's banjo cooker always freezes the tank. If you have a good wind screen you can dial it back enough, but otherwise you're stuck dealing with a tub of hot water and frustration if you're using the standard 20 lb propane exchange.

I use the bayou classic and it's plenty for a 20 gallon pot.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: PSA - New Yeast Company
« on: November 18, 2014, 05:43:17 AM »
So , if it's 200 billion cells for $13... how is this different than buying two packs of Wyeast?

Or, they'll all go out of business. I can't imagine that the equipment is cheap for a unit like this, and with a limited market of what I'd call "Rich dudes who wants toys", the customer base isn't growing.

The Pub / Re: Irritated at NFL scheduling
« on: November 16, 2014, 01:03:57 PM »
This site is always helpful to figure out the strange regional schedule:

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: shocking my system
« on: November 13, 2014, 08:41:40 AM »
So, we could either be talking about "wild" yeast, as in, Saccharomyces floating in the air, or Brettanomyces.

Either way, I have major doubts that the residual 1ppm of chlorine is going to kill more yeast than Star San would.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Back to basics - the perfect blonde
« on: November 12, 2014, 06:08:08 AM »
Funny, Belgian is what came to my mind, though the 4% might be low. I'm with Jim. But if you want to go the more Belgiany route with some estery yeast and some fuggles and/or goldings hops, I'm sure that would be delicious as well.

That little e makes all the difference huh?

Yeah, the difference between French and Flemish :)

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Northern Brewer Prime Dose
« on: November 11, 2014, 07:23:10 PM »
Thanks for the info, and welcome.

I guess you could pull apart the capsule and drop the contents in.  But at that point, you might as well just mix a packet of dry yeast with some sugar and drop a half teaspoon in each bottle for a tenth of the price.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: shocking my system
« on: November 11, 2014, 07:15:15 PM »
Quats are not a great no rinse beer sanitizer.  I have no personal experience but you can Google it for more info.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Repitching Wyeast 3724
« on: November 11, 2014, 05:41:02 PM »
Granted, my experience is with White Labs 565. I still pitch at 68, but push it into the 80s by day 3.  I think it makes a difference to get it warm early.

I also make sure to start with a "low" gravity, at least by Belgian standards (though not for traditional saison)... 1.054 to 1.006 by day 5

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: shocking my system
« on: November 11, 2014, 04:27:26 PM »
I also never experienced the persistent low-level spice problem that I have experienced since switching to Star San as my primary sanitizer.  I have noticed that many of the beers that I have judged over that last year suffer from the same problem (I am so sensitive to phenolic spice that I cannot enjoy Hefeweizen or many of the Belgian styles)

Maybe your're converting normal yeast phenols to chlorophenols with bleach.  Do you prefer the taste of bandaids to spice?

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Repitching Wyeast 3724
« on: November 11, 2014, 02:42:45 PM »
No experience repitching 3724 but I can tell you if you pitch it warm, like above 75 and simply allow it to self rise into the 80-90 degree range it will ferment quickly, without stall and easily below 1.010 and produce a great beer!

+1 to this.  Also, make sure it doesn't drop in temperature too quickly after high krausen.  If your house is cool, a heating pad may help.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Second use of gelatin
« on: November 10, 2014, 06:38:15 AM »
I'd think that the gelatin from the first keg would be jello by now.  If it doesn't mix in with the beer, it's not going to do anything.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Northern Brewer Prime Dose
« on: November 10, 2014, 06:34:44 AM »
What, no "This topic has been moved: Duplicate"?  :D

I haven't used them but the description says they also include yeast.  If you're looking for a truly one-step priming solution, that's kind of cool.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: How come my lagrs are cloudy?
« on: November 05, 2014, 04:02:19 PM »
What yeast?  I find that 833 clears a lot slower than 830.  If I don't fine, it's noticeably clearer after 12 weeks than 6.

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