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Messages - narvin

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Equipment and Software / Re: tube screen and "ice cube" ice chest LT
« on: July 02, 2011, 10:09:45 AM »
If you plan to batch sparge, you should be just fine.  I think Denny said he doesn't see any advantage to a longer braid in batch sparging.

For fly sparging, you might want a manifold to drain more evenly.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bright Tank
« on: June 30, 2011, 07:21:47 PM »
2 inches at most.  I bend the dip tube so it goes toward the edge (and sits higher) instead of cutting it since it's reversible.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Just bought a CO2 tank...
« on: June 30, 2011, 07:19:14 PM »
When I studied draft systems at Seibel, the word was, 'do not put the regulator or tank inside a refrigerator'.  In addition to effecting the components of the regulator, the gas will become more dense.  I am certain that the regulator will function at a wide temperature range, but was it specifically designed for beer?  How is the accuracy affected?  1-2 psi make a big differance when carbonating beer.

I really can't comment on how the regulator's metal spring responds to temperature changes and affects accuracy other than what I've experienced.

However, the physics of CO2 dictates that it's liquid in the tank regardless, with gas "boiling" off as it is released.  The gas pressure coming out will be lower at lower temperatures, but I don't see why this would affect the output of the regulator.

Zymurgy / Re: Pilsner Urquell triple decoction
« on: June 30, 2011, 06:35:53 PM »
Here's a simple question about mash volume for the triple decoction formula on page 36 of the latest Zymurgy. The mash in formula listed in the magazine is ALMOST 24 GALLONS for a 5 gallon batch. That's 11 quarts water per pound of grain!?!?! Should this be 3.775 gallons instead?

Is this a typo or what?


Don't have the magazine yet, but it sounds like it should be quarts.

If your PU clone has 12 pounds of grain and you mash thin for a decoction, 2 qts/pound would be 24 quarts.

According to Jamil, the White Labs Brett and Bacteria products are produced 6 months before the best by date.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Just bought a CO2 tank...
« on: June 29, 2011, 08:32:10 PM »
This company lists the operating range as -40-+200 F for their regulators.

Of course, if your garage has temperature swings from 38 - 90, you'd be better off leaving it in the fridge because it will at least be constant.  If the temperature of the tank changes, so will the pressure and your regulator setting will also change.

I keep mine in the fridge and see no temperature drifts, nor do I have a problem balancing my system according to the standard chart.  YMMV, but it seems like something that's not worth worrying about.  If it's easier to put your tank in the fridge because of your setup, do it.

Beer Recipes / Re: Saison Recipe, please help
« on: June 24, 2011, 07:42:10 PM »
Probably not.  If you want an orange color without affecting body or sweetness, add an ounce of Carafa Special

Your gypsum is quite low.... adding only calcium chloride will emphasize the malty flavor and leave you with a softer hop flavor.  I wouldn't think this would cause a grainy taste, but I would use half gypsum and half calcium chloride in the recipe you posted.

What's your yeast pitching and fermentation temperature like?  Yeast also wouldn't usually make a beer grainy, but at this point I think we're looking to find any process flaws we can.

The Pub / Re: Babalu
« on: June 24, 2011, 07:20:02 PM »
That's fantastic. After all the fighting he's done, it's great when we hear progress like this.  Here's hoping it continues.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Cold Aging?
« on: June 24, 2011, 03:02:03 PM »
Any (well, most) beers benefit from cold aging.  I wouldn't do it with a Hefeweizen but many others could use a week or so at 35 - 40 to drop out sediment.  It's not as aggressive as filtering, but I think it really helps remove unwanted flavors that come from flocculating yeast and hop sediment that gradually make their way to the bottom of your keg and come out in the first few pours.

I don't filter at home, but I've tasted a hoppy beer at a local brewery right before filtering and then after, and you really do get a crisper, more prominent bitterness when you remove the yeast.

Bottle conditioned beers will clear on their own in the fridge, but it's easier to pour when you don't have a big cake of junk at the bottom of each bottle.

The Pub / Re: RIP Columbo
« on: June 24, 2011, 02:55:34 PM »
A giant?  Andre the Giant isn't just A giant....

The Pub / Re: RIP Columbo
« on: June 24, 2011, 02:34:27 PM »
I loved him in Colombo, but really the thing that cemented him in the heart of my generation was the grandfather in Princess Bride.

You have to be the first person I've ever heard admit that they actually watched Princess Bride. :D

You have to be the first person I've heard of who hasn't watched and loved it.  I'm sorry for you....

I'm now officially embarrassed. I got this mixed up with The Princess Diaries, which was silly and sucked. I haven't seen the Falk movie, so I won't comment on it.

So, ironically, now you're the only guy I've heard admit that they actually watched the Princess Diaries  ;)

The Pub / Re: RIP Columbo
« on: June 24, 2011, 01:04:41 PM »
I loved him in Colombo, but really the thing that cemented him in the heart of my generation was the grandfather in Princess Bride.

You have to be the first person I've ever heard admit that they actually watched Princess Bride. :D


Awesome movie... not sure if there's some stigma with the word princess, but most people I know were secure enough to get over that when they turned 12.

All Grain Brewing / Re: lagering newbie
« on: June 24, 2011, 11:17:13 AM »
I agree that freezers were not designed to cycle on and off frequently.  They are designed more to keep the ambient temperature well below the freezing point and anything below that really doesn't matter.

However, a fridge is designed to keep the ambient temperature within a range, and their compressors are designed to handle frequent on-off cycles.  Think about how many times at 26 cu.ft. fridge's door is opened on a summer day with 5 kids running around.  However, this kind of activity is not common with a freezer.  You usually open that bad bear up once or twice a day and that's it, possibly less.

Normally in modern frost free systems only the freezer has the evap, and the fridge thermostat operates a duct, allowing freezer air to blow into the fridge. The compressor runs until the freezer is satified, the thermostat powering the compressor is only connected to the freezer. If the fridge requires cooling but not the freezer, there's plenty of freezer air to circulate into the fridge after the compressor has turned off. Eventually the cmpressor will start again when the freezer temp gets too high.

If you have a small mini fridge, there's a freezer box on top that stays at freezer temps.  On a wine fridge, they usually have a disclaimer saying something like "Do NOT leave the door open for an extended period of time, or repeatedly open and close the door, as this can shorten the life of the compressor".

All Grain Brewing / Re: lagering newbie
« on: June 24, 2011, 06:18:23 AM »
I'm with Tim. I use two small freezers to ferment two buckets each. I have dual stage temp controllers with the probe in the air in the freezer. If I were to stick a 80º bucket in there and tape the probe to it the temp in the freezer would go to  minus 20º until the bucket reached 68º, running constantly and the mechanics getting pretty toasty in my 90º garage. Plus, the other bucket went in at, say 76º where does that end up when the thing finally shuts down?

Nope, everything nice and easy, probe in the air set at 66º and both buckets gently get there in about 8-12 hours, while the freezer mechanicals get to work, rest work, rest........

Freezers were not designed to cycle on and off repeatedly with the coolant never reaching its coldest temperature.  You want it to run continuously and then shut off for a while for the sake of its lifespan. If you're not going to measure the temperature of the wort, at least set the differential to 4 degrees, or put the probe in a small jug of water to avoid rapid cycling, as air temperature caused by convection currents changes quickly.

When I can't get my wort down to ferment temps and need to drop it 20 - 30 degrees before pitching, I find that the worst that happens is that I overshoot by about 5 or 6 degrees.  Setting the target temperature higher at first fixes this problem.  Another advantage is that with the freezer running constantly, I can get it down to pitching temps in about 4 hours.

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