Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - narvin

Pages: 1 ... 60 61 [62] 63 64 ... 149
916
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Flashback Brewday
« on: November 05, 2014, 07:42:02 AM »
Memory lane... my first brew was an ambitions attempt at Rochefort 10, using the unfortunate recipe from "Beer Captured".  I think I ended up with less wort than intended, and the yeast died at 12% alcohol still at 1.030 or something.    ???

My second was an all-grain attempt at Hop Devil, also from Beer Captured.

It's a cool idea, but I think I'd prefer not to brew any recipes from that book.

917
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: That's a first
« on: November 05, 2014, 07:40:39 AM »
The only thing I'd worry about is getting it fully dissolved prior to canning.  Otherwise, there could be issues with foaming perhaps?

When I use leftover wort, I don't boil before canning.

918
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Artificial Oxygenation
« on: November 04, 2014, 02:57:00 PM »
I think someone tested out sea monkeys a few years ago and got good results.

919
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Another reason to enjoy home brew
« on: November 04, 2014, 12:16:29 PM »
Joking aside, I do agree that "real" ingredients are better than industrial food factory additives.  I prefer local food and a good micro or homebrew... it's just the pseudo-science and scare tactics that bug me about these kind of editorials.

920
Equipment and Software / Re: Lauter Tun Sizing
« on: November 03, 2014, 01:32:28 PM »
Ratio is important, but at the homebrew level so is the absolute depth.  I don't think a grain bed of a few inches will work well regardless of the height/width ratio of the tun.  12-18" will work fine, in my experience.  Lauter time is also less important at the homebrew level since things don't scale linearly -- liquid volume increases much faster than grain bed surface area as system size increases.

922
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Another reason to enjoy home brew
« on: November 03, 2014, 09:37:00 AM »
Here’s some harmful ingredients that are commonly found in beer:
- Natural Flavors

Oh the humanity!

923
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: That's a first
« on: October 27, 2014, 11:20:59 AM »

I'm also curious about how to make sanitary transfers from the jar to whatever (Erlenmeyer or whatever) you use on your stir plate.

Soak your flask and a stainless kitchen funnel in sanitizer, just like you prep your fermenter.  You're pitching a large amount of yeast in a starter, so the conditions don't have to be sterile. 

If you're growing up from a slant or a single cell colony on a plate, you should inoculate directly into a vial of sterile wort to avoid any contamination.

924
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: That's a first
« on: October 27, 2014, 10:11:47 AM »
I don't think there's a problem with leaving extra head space.  When pressure canning you want to vent steam for a while before putting on the pressure weight (7 minutes is what my manual says), so the head space should be evacuated of air.

You want to leave at least 3/4" - 1" of space at the minimum, to avoid losing liquid during canning.

925
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: That's a first
« on: October 27, 2014, 06:33:01 AM »
So you can quarts of late runnings or brew day excess at the usual 1.030 to 1.040, then it sits shelf stable until you need it, and just dump it and the yeast right into the starter vessel with no other prep (other than the usual sanitation of the flask)?

hmmm

Yep. I've also done a small mash with 4 pounds of grain or so in my old 5 gallon mash tun.  Easy to do indoors on the stovetop on a winter day.

926
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: That's a first
« on: October 27, 2014, 06:10:06 AM »
Another practical tip for those who boil in Erlenmeyer flasks: clumps of DME stuck to the bottom will get MUCH hotter than the rest of the flask, which is in contact with the liquid, and can cause cracking to happen sooner rather than later. Stir well before heating!

I've also moved to canning starter wort from an AG batch.  The prep may not be easier, but once it's done you don't have to boil anything on starter day.

927
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Corking Belgian Bottles
« on: October 25, 2014, 08:13:06 AM »
Yes, those fit Champagne bottles but Chimay style Belgian bottles can't be capped.

928
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Recapping Large Chimay Bottles
« on: October 25, 2014, 08:12:04 AM »
Those will only fit Champagne style bottles.  Most Belgian corked bottles, including Chimay, have no lip and cannot be capped.

929
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: PH calibration and solutions
« on: October 24, 2014, 06:07:50 PM »

cool chart. so then since 4 rotates around 7, would it be the same quality of calibration as using 10 -assuming it rotates around 7 and is the same 3 point difference from 7 as 4 is from 7? or is 4 better because the movement around 7 is closer to a brewers PH range?

i do have two meters with auto calibration for 4.01 and 7.01 solutions, and one manual 2 point calibration.

It's doubtful that calibrating at 10 and then measuring near 4 would be as accurate due to inevitable nonlinearity in the probe's response across a large range.  I was wondering if the person using the MW102 was actually doing two sequential 2-point calibrations, with only the second (possibly less accurate) being used.

930
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: PH calibration and solutions
« on: October 24, 2014, 05:59:13 AM »
I use the three point calibration, just because it is recommended... and I use the recommended branded test solutions.


I have noticed that the ATC component stabilizes the reading more quickly after the 3 point... as opposed to the 2 point. May not make any practical difference in brewhouse as I seldom see a pH above 6.


Milwaukee MW102 with ATC.

How are you doing a 3 point calibration with the MW102?  I have one and the manual says it only supports 2 point calibration.

http://www.milwaukeeinstruments.com/pdf/MW102.pdf

Pages: 1 ... 60 61 [62] 63 64 ... 149