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Messages - narvin

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961
No, I'm not saying you shuldn't use campden. I'm just saying that filters work just as well (as in someone mentioned that they ran their water to a trickle and still got bandaid). And I don't believe that chloramines are as much of an issue as everyone says. I thought they would not boil out of solution, but that they could be filtered out just find. Please fix my understanding, but if that is the case then how in the world do large commercial breweries get the chloramine out their water? Surely you guys don't think they are using campden?

Super fancy filtration systems?  Isn't everything better at the commercial level?  ;)

962
All Grain Brewing / Re: Saison Brew Day
« on: July 06, 2011, 06:35:58 AM »
I'd mash lower... 145 wouldn't be too low.  Also, if you're basing it off of Saison Dupont, you'll want the Dupont strain, which is 3724.  If you stick with the French Saison strain, you don't need to ferment as hot (or mash as low).

963
All Things Food / Re: My Drunk Kitchen
« on: July 05, 2011, 08:07:04 PM »
She's the shazizzle.  8)  But my wife would probably think I love her like she thinks I love RR.  :-\

If your wife is jealous of Russian River, maybe she should learn to brew some awesome beers instead of taking it out on you.

964
I'd still use a charcoal filter, by the way, since it can help with other things.  If something tastes bad in water, it will taste bad in beer.

965
I was referring more to the canister's efficiency in stripping out chloramine.  I'm not worried about the rest.

Unless you trickle the water through the canister extremely slowly, it's basically buying you nothing.  Campden tabs are cheap.

If that were the case, then an in-line canister filter for home (like the ones found attached to a well filtration system) are useless too.  Not trying to be argumentative, I'm just trying to understand the effectiveness of a active charcoal canister filter.


They are plenty useful -- for making water taste better.  They aren't useful in removing chloramine completely, which is bad for beer making since chlorophenols have a low taste threshold.

966
The Pub / Re: Monster-in-law
« on: July 02, 2011, 09:43:22 PM »
Grammar is fun!  In my extremely humble opinion, none is plural in this case because it does refer to more than one instance of us.

—Usage note
Since none  has the meanings “not one” and “not any,” some insist that it always be treated as a singular and be followed by a singular verb: The rescue party searched for survivors, but none was found.  However, none  has been used with both singular and plural verbs since the 9th century. When the sense is “not any persons or things” (as in the example above), the plural is more common: … none were found.  Only when none  is clearly intended to mean “not one” or “not any” is it followed by a singular verb: Of all my articles, none has received more acclaim than my latest one.

967
The Pub / Re: Monster-in-law
« on: July 02, 2011, 09:36:36 PM »
To be even clearer, some of the responses in that thread were probably written before others were edited and/or deleted by moderators.

968
All Grain Brewing / Re: First All Grain Batch
« on: July 02, 2011, 09:34:05 PM »
Yep, a gal. for the mash and 6 gal. for the sparge just doesn't seem right.  And your sparge water should be more like 185-190F, not 168.

That seems high for sparge water temp doesn't it?  I thought general consensus was that sparge water above 170F would extract tannins?  Are you assuming some amount of temperature loss for a batch sparge or something?

If you're batch sparging, there is more temperature loss because you add only enough water as will be drained. Sparge water heated to 185 added to a drained grain bed that was at 150 seems to settle at or below 170 in my experience.

969
You buy something that you lack the required prescription for on ebay... to use as a low-flow regulator for an O2 tank to aerate your wort.

970
Equipment and Software / Re: tube screen and "ice cube" ice chest LT
« on: July 02, 2011, 10:09:45 AM »
If you plan to batch sparge, you should be just fine.  I think Denny said he doesn't see any advantage to a longer braid in batch sparging.

For fly sparging, you might want a manifold to drain more evenly.

971
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bright Tank
« on: June 30, 2011, 07:21:47 PM »
2 inches at most.  I bend the dip tube so it goes toward the edge (and sits higher) instead of cutting it since it's reversible.

972
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Just bought a CO2 tank...
« on: June 30, 2011, 07:19:14 PM »
When I studied draft systems at Seibel, the word was, 'do not put the regulator or tank inside a refrigerator'.  In addition to effecting the components of the regulator, the gas will become more dense.  I am certain that the regulator will function at a wide temperature range, but was it specifically designed for beer?  How is the accuracy affected?  1-2 psi make a big differance when carbonating beer.

I really can't comment on how the regulator's metal spring responds to temperature changes and affects accuracy other than what I've experienced.

However, the physics of CO2 dictates that it's liquid in the tank regardless, with gas "boiling" off as it is released.  The gas pressure coming out will be lower at lower temperatures, but I don't see why this would affect the output of the regulator.

973
Zymurgy / Re: Pilsner Urquell triple decoction
« on: June 30, 2011, 06:35:53 PM »
Here's a simple question about mash volume for the triple decoction formula on page 36 of the latest Zymurgy. The mash in formula listed in the magazine is ALMOST 24 GALLONS for a 5 gallon batch. That's 11 quarts water per pound of grain!?!?! Should this be 3.775 gallons instead?

Is this a typo or what?

...help...

Alan

Don't have the magazine yet, but it sounds like it should be quarts.

If your PU clone has 12 pounds of grain and you mash thin for a decoction, 2 qts/pound would be 24 quarts.

974
According to Jamil, the White Labs Brett and Bacteria products are produced 6 months before the best by date.

975
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Just bought a CO2 tank...
« on: June 29, 2011, 08:32:10 PM »
This company lists the operating range as -40-+200 F for their regulators. 

http://www.manitowocfsusa.com/docs/uploaded/mbs/us/mbs/mbs_catalog/co2regulators.pdf

Of course, if your garage has temperature swings from 38 - 90, you'd be better off leaving it in the fridge because it will at least be constant.  If the temperature of the tank changes, so will the pressure and your regulator setting will also change.

I keep mine in the fridge and see no temperature drifts, nor do I have a problem balancing my system according to the standard chart.  YMMV, but it seems like something that's not worth worrying about.  If it's easier to put your tank in the fridge because of your setup, do it.

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