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Messages - Hokerer

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The Pub / Re: Green Flash Virginia Beach For Sale
« on: March 26, 2018, 11:48:17 PM »

All Grain Brewing / Re: stir grain bed when sparge?
« on: March 23, 2018, 11:00:57 PM »
I'm in the batch sparge (drain, add sparge water, stir, and drain again) camp. I get higher efficiency that way

Equipment and Software / Re: Aluminum Kettle
« on: March 13, 2018, 11:10:21 PM »
Aluminum works.  Just be aware that it's going to oxidize and kinda look like hell but don't try to scrub out that oxidation, it actually ends up protecting things.  Also be gentle with it as aluminum is easy to dent.

All Things Food / Re: Brussels Sprouts & Bacon
« on: February 17, 2017, 12:11:21 AM »
The beauty in this one was the only real prep was splitting the sprouts in half. The rest was completed on a sheet pan in the oven. Since we had covered the pan with foil it was as simple as throwing away the foil.

Yep, that's the best part - simplicity.  No need to dirty another pan pre-frying the bacon.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: New guy
« on: August 11, 2014, 12:13:08 AM »
Well, except for Sept 2, 2017, welcome to the forum!

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Fermenter
« on: August 10, 2014, 03:11:54 PM »
plus the to keep the fermenter at the right temp while its doing its job? I have settled on a five gallon bucket inside a wine fridge set at temp 65-72 i think. just want to bounce this off people to see how my thought process is working. thanks in advance

Be aware that, while the air in your wine fridge (which is what the fridge thermostat will be measuring) will be your desired temperature range, the fermenting wort itself can be 5-10 degrees warmer than that.  Best thing is to measure/control the actual wort temperature.  Failing that, setting the fridge to a lower temp is another option.

Equipment and Software / Re: Lowes vs Home Depot MLT
« on: August 08, 2014, 03:37:31 PM »
Another option is to forego the ball valve altogether.  I just have the tubing come directly out of the cooler and I tuck the end of the tubing up into the handle on the cooler.  When I want to drain, all I have to do is to lower the tubing into the kettle.  To stop, lift the hose up again.  Easy peasy.

The Pub / Re: F Cancer
« on: August 08, 2014, 02:04:49 AM »
Sorry for your loss.  A month or two ago my Sister-in-Law was told she has about six months so yeah, cancer sucks big time.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast starter question
« on: August 08, 2014, 02:01:34 AM »
At that point you're better off brewing a small beer to pitch on top of.

This is the way to go.  Plus you have two different beers instead of just one.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Frozen Yeast
« on: January 17, 2014, 03:28:42 PM »
I have quite a few yeast samples in my garage fridge (conan, ommegang etc), just realized with the cold snap many likely froze. Are these toast? or should i toss one in a starter and see what happens?

As long as you're making starters with them, you'll probably be fine.  Freezing might have killed some but not all so the starter route is the way to go.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: sediment in bottom of bottles
« on: January 16, 2014, 03:23:01 AM »
Yep, perfectly normal for bottle conditioned beer.

Equipment and Software / Re: Chest freezer concern
« on: January 15, 2014, 02:05:27 PM »
If everyone is so concerned with the chest freezer vs back thing, why not use wine coolers for each fermenter?

Because they're wine coolers, silly.  They won't cool beer. :)

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Secondary options
« on: January 12, 2014, 09:02:12 PM »
It's been my experience that dry hopping in the primary will give you a reduced aroma vs dry hopping in a secondary or keg.  I've read from many sources that the yeast cells absorb many of the volatile hop oils you want in the aroma from your dry hop addition.  I've even heard of breweries actually filtering their beer prior to the dry hop to get better hop aromas.

Hence the suggestions above to wait until the yeast drops and then add them.  The yeast in the trub at the bottom of the fermenter isn't going to absorb those oils, it's what little yeast remains in solution.  And whether you rack to secondary or not, you'll still have the same amount of "oil absorbing" yeast cells present.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Secondary options
« on: January 12, 2014, 03:46:32 PM »
Thinking ahead to next week, I'm looking at the below instructions from my kit...

"After 5-7 days of fermentation, add 1 oz. Ahtanum, 1 oz Amarillo and 1 oz. Simcoe hops. You can add the hops directly to the sanitized secondary fermenter and rack on top of the hops – you’ll get more from the hops this way. If you are using a single stage fermenting system, then leave the beer in the fermenter for two weeks total and carefully add the hops to the primary fermenter. Allow this to age for 7-10 days. Optionally, you can use a spare fine nylon bag to hold the dry hops, but this is not required."

I've never used a secondary (I have a 5 gallon carboy for this) and I'm wondering will the beer be better going this route vs. adding these hops straight to the primary?

I'm curious if the quality of the end result will outweigh the risk of infection.

Just add them to the primary.  I've done it both ways and you can't tell any difference in the end result.  The simplicity of only using a primary wins out.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: HELP needed
« on: January 12, 2014, 03:44:56 PM »
It's a 6 gallon carboy, I was just surprised as I've never seen that much activity before. Thanks for the tips, and crisis averted. I sorta' like the blowoff tube setup, the bubble sounds sound cooler vs. an airlock!

+1.  There's no real reason to not use your blowoff setup on every one of your brews.  That's what I do.  Better safe than sorry.

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