Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - hokerer

Pages: 1 ... 165 166 [167] 168 169 ... 176
2491
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bad idea, but so tempting!
« on: February 04, 2010, 07:36:11 AM »
Seriously asking for contamination aren't I.   ::)  I just need to hear someone else (other than the little voice in my head) tell me NO!


 :o

umm, ok...   NO

never used corks but figured I could still help you out.

2492
Ingredients / Re: Cardamom?
« on: February 04, 2010, 07:11:09 AM »
Which also brings up the question of what I'm going to do with 1.7 ounces of the stuff.

Wasn't there an old Cheers episode where Cardamom was the secret ingredient for the winning best drink contest entry?

(IIRC, though, that was black cardamom)

2493
Ingredients / Re: Smoking Malt
« on: February 03, 2010, 08:18:10 PM »
These might help...



...sorry, couldn't resist  ;D

2494
Beer Travel / Re: I love the AHA Pub Discount!!!
« on: February 03, 2010, 02:33:02 PM »
Good to know someone's getting some success out of it.  I'll admit to having given up after a number of misinformed/uniformed pub/restaurant staff.  I now figure legislative activism, a AHA GABF session and occasional free rally are worth the $38.

and don't forget the magazine

2495
Well, #1 and #4 don't really hurt much so no biggie.  On #2, smacking the pack really doesn't make any difference as it's only purpose is for you to see that the yeast in the pack is viable before you pitch - all the yeast is already there so again, no biggie.  Finally, #3 isn't going to make much difference either hydrate or not.

Basically, none of those mistakes are fatal and you're probably fine.  Most likely, by pitching a pack of liquid AND a packet of dry yeast, the fermentation finished (for the most part) within your three day window.  Let it sit for the normal time to clean up after itself and you should be fine.

2496
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wyeast 1450
« on: February 03, 2010, 11:07:01 AM »
Uh, yeah....that's why I've retired and moved to the Bahamas!  ;)

The beer sucks and the water is worse for brewing

Hey, Kalik isn't all that but the (relatively) new Sands stuff isn't half bad.

2497
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Shipping costs?
« on: February 02, 2010, 01:59:11 PM »
Munton's and give it a shot before I commit to a sack. :-\
trust me, its subpar.

That's what our LHBS did too.  Went from Crisp to Muntons and all I've heard is that Muntons doesn't compare to Crisp (or Thomas Fawcett).

2498
All Grain Brewing / Re: Organics
« on: February 01, 2010, 07:24:04 PM »
I am fairly certain that pesticides
have a negative effect on my head retention.



store crushed at Seven Bridges Organic Co-op.  Part of my simpler approach...could be something there.

You are onto something here. ;)

+1  99% of the time crush is the driver of efficiency issues.  No telling how their crush is different now than it was when you were brewing way back when (or whoever crushed for you at the time).

2499
All Grain Brewing / Re: Organics
« on: February 01, 2010, 07:18:26 AM »
What should a mash PH be, and how to measure it easily/cheaply?  Will test papers for aquariums work?

There was actually a long thread about this on here somewhere not too long ago.  The basic understanding I came away from that with is...

1. Actual pH at mash temperature is around 0.3 lower than actual pH at room temperature.

2. Target pH should be 5.1 to 5.4 at mash temperature which is the same as 5.4 to 5.7 at room temperature.

3. Colorphast test strips at room temperature give a reading that is approximately 0.3 lower than actual room temperature pH.

4. Colorphast test strips give the same reading at mash temp as they do at room temp.

5. Therefore, you can use the strips to test your mash pH at either temperature and the reading you get will correspond to the mash temp pH which should be between 5.1 and 5.4

2500
Equipment and Software / Re: Circular vs Rectangular Mash Tun
« on: January 31, 2010, 12:23:58 PM »
I do have the option of picking up the 78qt Coleman extreme-question is this:  Is this too large a size if I wanted to so a 5 gallon batch?

All of my 5-gallon batches have had plenty of extra room in my 36-quart Coleman Xtreme.

When or if you start messin around with 25 lbs of grain say for a barleywine or other high gravity bill,
the 36 quart will be a disappointment....IMO

When I start messin around with 25 lbs of grain just shoot me in the head :)  The biggest I've done (and probably the biggest I'll do) was a 1.075 IPA and the 13 lbs of grain for it plus water fit just fine in the 36'er.  Most of what I do is in the .40s and .50s so the 36 quart is actually better for those as there's still some decent grain bed depth that wouldn't be there in one of those mondo size coolers.  I guess it all really depends on what kinds of brew you do.

2501
Equipment and Software / Re: Manifold vs. Screen/Braid
« on: January 31, 2010, 08:54:21 AM »
Batch appears to be the simplest but keeping options open may be beneficial.  Can you fly sparge in a rectangular cooler?

Sure, you can fly sparge in a rect cooler.  It'll probably eliminate the braid as an option for you though.  With fly, it becomes all important to make sure that your collection method provides coverage for a much of the area of the grain bed as possible.  For a rect, that means manifold (round coolers could also use a false bottom).  With batch sparge, since you drain the whole thing each time, you're not worried about channelling and such so a braid works great.

2502
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Shipping costs?
« on: January 31, 2010, 08:49:55 AM »
The grain may be a little more expensive, but I haven't found a better deal around yet.

If you're talking full sacks of grain, you can definitely do better.  A full sack of Crisp Marris Otter from Brewmasters Warehouse looks to be $85.25 ($1.55 x 55) plus the $6.99 shipping for a total of $92.24.  A full sack of Thomas Fawcett Marris Otter from Country Malt Group is $40.24 plus $22.22 shipping for a total of $62.46.  That sounds like a better deal to me.  Also, that shipping is to Virginia and, since they're located in New York state, shipping to you in CT should be even less.

2503
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Shipping costs?
« on: January 30, 2010, 07:01:40 PM »
including 50# sacks of grain for $6.99 flat shipping.

Just had to check this one out.  Am I missing something as the only way I saw to order a full sack was to order the number of pounds contained in a sack.  This ends up charging you the full per-pound price for the whole sack -- most places a full sack is less per pound.

2504
Equipment and Software / Re: Manifold vs. Screen/Braid
« on: January 30, 2010, 03:21:41 PM »
I batch sparge with a smaller Coleman Xtreme using the braid and I consistently get 80-85% brewhouse efficiency.  Have never used a manifold but I wouldn't think it would be much better than that.

2505
Ingredients / Re: Fivestar's 5.2 mash buffer
« on: January 29, 2010, 12:00:15 PM »
Is there an echo in here? ;D

Oops, yeah.  Got caught in the page 1 page 2 thing.  Thought post I was answering was the last one but it turns out it was just the last one on page 1.

Pages: 1 ... 165 166 [167] 168 169 ... 176