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Messages - Hokerer

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pressure Canning Wort For Starters
« on: January 13, 2010, 01:25:56 AM »
1. What pressure level should I maintain and for how long?
I always give it 15 minutes at 15 pounds
2.  How full do I fill the jars?
I fill them to the bottom of the threads
3.  Is there anything else you need to add other than boiled wort?
I haven't but some people add yeast nutrient.  Might start doing that.
4.  How long have you kept it for?
Only been doing for six months or so so that's all the longer I've kept 'em

The Pub / How appropriate is this
« on: January 11, 2010, 02:27:28 PM »

Ingredients / Re: Correctly reading ph test strips
« on: January 11, 2010, 03:23:16 AM »
will give a reading that is about 0.3 lower than the mash's room temp pH.

So since that is room temp pH and mash temp pH is about 0.3 lower than room temp pH does that mean that the reading on the strip ends up being equal to the mash temp pH?  and it's the mash temp pH that we're targeting to be 5.2?

Ingredients / Re: Correctly reading ph test strips
« on: January 10, 2010, 07:46:02 PM »
"I.e. the strips tend to report a pH reading that is about 0.3 pH less than what is determined with a calibrated pH meter"

Ok, got that part.  So above, when I read 5.8 with the strip, that really means 6.1?  Still leaves what do I do about the temp?  The ph at mash temp is supposedly 0.3 off from the ph at ambient.  Do I add or subtract 0.3?  Ultimately, I guess I want to find out how from the magical 5.2 I am so I can see which direction to adjust things, right?

Equipment and Software / Re: Ice Cube MLT conversion
« on: January 10, 2010, 04:32:49 AM »
Shouldn't need to cut a new hole.  As long as you have the two elbows (in the picture above), you could just attach a braid instead of the manifold shown.  Both (manifold or braid) should work equally for batch sparging and leave you about the same amount of deadspace.

Ingredients / Correctly reading ph test strips
« on: January 09, 2010, 11:48:41 PM »
Ok, I've seen all the discussion about the difference between ph at mash temp and at room temp... also the discussion of the test strips reading about 0.3 hi/lo.  And now I'm confused.

I wait at least 10 minutes after dough-in, collect a small sample that is, as much as possible, just liquid, let it cool to ambient temp, and then check it with the test strip.  Say I read 5.8.  Does that mean the mash ph was 5.5? (subtract 0.3 for temperature)...  or was it 5.2? (subtract 0.3 for temp and another 0.3 for strip inaccuracy)... or was it 5.8? (subtract 0.3 and then add 0.3)...  or am I adding when I should be subtracting or what?

Also, if ph differs at the different temperatures, when they say 5.2 is ideal, what temp is that at?

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast Culturing
« on: January 09, 2010, 12:40:08 AM »
Kai's recipe:
    *  100 ml wort
    * 3-4 g agar

This is the ratio that works best for me (4% that is).  I find it easier to squirt 5ml of wort into as many of the 12ml vials as I want slants.  I then weigh out enough agar to come out to about 4g for every 100ml.  Divide it up by eye into equal portions (and hope nobody walks in while I'm pushing white powder around with a razor blade) and dump a portion into each vial.  Shake it up good and then pressure can them.

If I mix in the agar first, it starts to set before I get all the mixture measured into the vials and if I use less than the 4% ratio, my slants "slump".

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Preparing for the switich to all grain
« on: January 09, 2010, 12:31:10 AM »
Also, for a pot for 10 gal batches, get, at minimum, a 15 gal pot.  And, if you don't already have one, you're gonna need some sort of chiller to cool it down after the boil.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast Culturing
« on: January 08, 2010, 07:52:47 PM »
Anything else I should be aware of?

30g of agar powder will last a good while but, once you do use that up, if you have a local Asian food store, you can usually get 25g of agar powder for about a buck twenty-five.

I'd like to see a video

Yeah, especially of the trebuchet action

Wouldn't I get the same channeling no matter which way I sparged? 

You might get the same channeling but with batch it doesn't really matter.  When you fly sparge, if all of your sparge water is "channeling", then it never actually rinses the sugars out of that portion of the grist that it doesn't touch.  With batch, since you're going to drain all of the water, you'll drain (and rinse) the water from the non-channeled areas of the grist too.

The Pub / Re: Going Green?
« on: January 06, 2010, 09:43:03 PM »
Sounds like your PC could do with a lot less caffeine

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: what are your goals for 2 ought 10
« on: January 06, 2010, 09:39:17 PM »
Only up to the 100 gallon limit, of course. ;)

Begs the question, is it worth getting hitched to bump that limit up to 200 gallons :)

Questions about the forum? / Re: Where are you from?
« on: January 06, 2010, 09:37:30 PM »
Me too

All Grain Brewing / Re: First stuck mash: batch sparge
« on: January 06, 2010, 09:23:44 PM »
I'd probably look more toward the other process that you said you changed.  That is, adding the water to the grain instead of the grain to the water.  Maybe that created some sort of nasty doughball mess that gummed up your braid.

edit:  hmm, on second glance, you say you transferred some of the mash to another cooler and it still stuck so, maybe never mind.

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