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Messages - TrippleRippleBrewer

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1
Beer Recipes / Re: APA recipe feedback
« on: June 10, 2014, 07:24:02 AM »
I am trying to put some variety in my beers using different WLP liquid yeasts from my LHBS. Dry is convenient but I'm getting a bit burned out on S05 and need to do some exploring.

might want to make a starter next time with that vial of Super, too - your gravity is high enough to warrant it.

You are correct. I can't argue with you there.

I have two stir plates, a 5l flask and a 2L flask, DME and everything required. I just didn't feel like bothering on Thursday evening! Lazy brewer I am. The vial was really fresh though, and things are fermenting violently as expected. I guess if it's underpitched maybe I'll be more inspired next time.

Couple years ago I invested in all the starter stuff primarily to brew lagers because almost all my ales have been made with S05 or the BRY-97 and I have simply pitched more from a second packet using those ( rehydrated ).

Going forward with more WLP strains, more starters are in my future for sure.

Thanks


2
Beer Recipes / Re: Simple APA recipe
« on: June 10, 2014, 04:01:49 AM »
I am going to cool my wort to 165, then throw my hops in for a half hour stand. After experimenting on several brews I find this maximizes my flavor/aroma balance to my liking when doing hop stands. I am going to use BRY-97 yeast. But it doesn't exist in the beersmith database.

BeerSmith 2 Recipe Printout - http://www.beersmith.com
Recipe: Ralph's Summertime Pale Ale
Brewer: Roger
Asst Brewer: Ralph The Wonderdog
Style: American Pale Ale
TYPE: All Grain
Taste: (30.0)

Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Boil Size: 5.70 gal
Post Boil Volume: 5.20 gal
Batch Size (fermenter): 5.00 gal
Bottling Volume: 5.00 gal
Estimated OG: 1.047 SG
Estimated Color: 5.6 SRM
Estimated IBU: 63.6 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 72.00 %
Est Mash Efficiency: 72.0 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
7 lbs Brewer's Malt, 2-Row, Premium (Great Wes Grain 1 77.8 %
2 lbs Munich 10L (Briess) (10.0 SRM) Grain 2 22.2 %
1.00 oz Cascade [5.50 %] - First Wort 60.0 min Hop 3 24.8 IBUs
2.00 oz Cascade [5.50 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 4 16.3 IBUs
2.00 oz Cascade [5.50 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 60.0 Hop 5 22.5 IBUs


Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Light Body, Batch Sparge
Total Grain Weight: 9 lbs
----------------------------
Name Description Step Temperat Step Time
Mash In Add 12.25 qt of water at 162.7 F 152.0 F 60 min

"I am going to use BRY-97 yeast. But it doesn't exist in the beersmith database."

I use this yeast on occasion and I just added it to the database myself. Same with many hops that weren't in circulation at the time of the BS release you're using.

Just click on the Ingredients tab, click Yeast, click Add Yeast, use information on the yeast from the Danstar site and save it.

http://www.danstaryeast.com/products/bry-97-american-west-coast-beer-yeast

You can do the same for hops. I would personally do some searching from a variety of sites and form a consensus on the typical alpha, beta, and other aspects when adding the information.

Otherwise I find your steeping procedure interesting. I have experimented with cooler steeps and haven't gotten the results I was after but only tried it a couple times. The one I just brewed had flameout additions and I steeped for only 10 minutes primarily because I was on a timeline and had to wrap things up and leave. It was around 195 to 200 most of that time. I also get a little anxious with all the dust, insects and pollen blowing around outside with my kettle open and cooler wort in there. I can't help it. Guess I need to relax and you know.......

3
Beer Recipes / Re: APA recipe feedback
« on: June 09, 2014, 03:43:01 PM »
OK I brewed this APA with:

6lbs Weyerman Pale
4lbs Weyerman Pils
1lb Weyerman Munich
1lb Marris Otter

.5 oz Apollo 18% at 60
1oz Amarillo at 15
1oz Cascade at 0
.5oz Apollo at 0
Whirlfloc
60 minute boil

WLP090 Sandiego Super yeast - one vial warmed by letting it sit in the pocket of my shorts shortly after I got out of bed the morning of brew day.

150 degree mash for 60 minutes.
Batch sparge ala Denny style followed his page info and everything.

Too lazy to check my OG and I rarely do.

And 12hrs later not much going on, but at 18hrs it's taking off and all is good.
The SanDiego yeast is weird. I have used it before and it's fine. I like it but it behaves so differently than S05 which is almost all I have used in the past. I am trying to put some variety in my beers using different WLP liquid yeasts from my LHBS. Dry is convenient but I'm getting a bit burned out on S05 and need to do some exploring.

I plan to let it ride for around 10 days and keep an eye on the airlock before I cold crash and keg. It's fermenting at 68 degrees in my fermentation fridge using a Johnson controller.

Thanks for all replies.

4
Beer Recipes / Re: APA recipe feedback
« on: June 04, 2014, 01:57:35 PM »
OK this sounds familiar now. It's been so long!
I don't want to get too far off topic but...

Have had the discussion with my brewing friends about the whole idea of session IPA so I'm with you guys now.
I think I'm so used to drinking cans of it from Founders that I've sort of accepted the term even though when I first heard it I thought it was a bit silly too. APA with a BU/GU ratio close 1 to 1 and a name that's a marketing gimmick in a market where anything "IPA" is immensely popular even with people who don't really know beer, but think they do. The term American Pale Ale is a marketing dud in comparison. This isn't just a hopped up pale ale, it's session IPA!

I will say one positive aspect possibly might be the more widespread distribution of the term "session" for beer style to the general public. I have met a number of people who like craft beer and don't have any idea what that means. First time I saw it in print was when I was in Hood River and had some Full Sail Session lager many years ago. It was a new beer at the time and I thought it was in response to the resurgence of popularity of PBR but it probably was not.

Brewing Saturday and lots of cleaning and prep to do. First brew session of the year for me and all my gear is a mess. I even lost a carboy over the winter because I left it in the garage full of PBW and it froze solid when temps dropped below zero up here.



5
Beer Recipes / Re: APA recipe feedback
« on: June 04, 2014, 01:25:25 PM »

I guess I'm sort of going for the session IPA type thing.


But...I thought you were brewing an APA??

Umkay I'm out of the loop here.

Denny please elaborate.

I like my APA a bit hoppy. Did I open worm can?

6
Beer Recipes / Re: APA recipe feedback
« on: June 04, 2014, 12:21:04 PM »
Thanks guys - appreciate the feedback!
Honestly can't remember the last beer I brewed with no crystal in it but I brew mostly IPA and a sort of standardized recipe protocol I guess. Looking to branch out this year a bit and get into more sessionable styles.

I have all sorts of options for dry hop including Moteka, Amarillo, Citra, and probably others. My freezer is a disorganized mess of bags of hops and I need to go through it and inventory.

For water I build my own from distilled and use an on-line tool, weigh out my salts with a scale etc.
The chosen profile for this water was high in SO4 - light colored and slightly bitter style.

I guess I'm sort of going for the session IPA type thing.

Thanks again guys

7
Beer Recipes / APA recipe feedback
« on: June 04, 2014, 11:41:16 AM »
I need to brew and use up ingredients I bought last fall. Trouble is what I have for base grains isn't what I'd typically use for an APA, which is what I want to brew.

Without getting into too much detail, my APA is going to have the following typical specs:

  • Mid 1.050's ish OG
  • Around 40 IBU from Apollo for bittering at 60
  • Cascade and Amarillo at 10 and flameout for flavor and aroma
  • SanDiego Super yeast from WLP

My base grains are a blend of Weyerman Pale malt, Weyerman Pils, some 40l and maybe some Munich or Melanoidin for a little malty action. This is what I have on hand as well as some other grains but not in significant quantity.

So far my thoughts are to use 6lbs of the Pale ( all I have ) and around 4lbs of the Pils ( I have a 10lb bag ) with a half pound each of 40L and Munich for a little color and flavor.

What am I going for?
A crisp and refreshing APA I can session with plenty of citrus and grapefruit flavor.

My other idea was to flip the Pils and Pale around, go 6lbs Pils and 4lbs Pale, ditch the Munich and go for a lighter colored and flavored result.

Thoughts?


8
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Clean your bottles !
« on: November 13, 2013, 11:01:32 AM »
Ive been bottling from day one because I don't feel Keging is practical for me. Taking a keg to a friends house is a bit of a pain.
Filling a growler quick off the tap is a huge pain?

You beat me to it. I like bottles but....
In my opinion NOTHING about kegging makes it less practical or more work than bottling.
My beer is better than it ever was in bottles, it lasts longer, and it is so much easier to deal with packaging I can't say enough good things about kegging. It changed the hobby for me dramatically and I'll never go back. This topic was reminder for me of staring through bottles looking for junk on the bottoms or in the neck and all the PBW I used to go through soaking them. So glad to be done with that I hated it.

9
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Low Carbonation in Bottles
« on: November 13, 2013, 10:54:28 AM »
No need to stir up the sugar water in the beer.  When I bottle carb, I just put the sugar solution in the bucket first and then rack the beer on top of it in the bottleing bucket.  That has always led to consistent bottle carbination levels. 

I share your hesitation too stir up finished beer in an oxygen enviornment!!  I usually get carbed bottles in about two weeks this way when my basement is at 60 to 65F in the winter time...and about a week to 10 days when the basement is at 65 to 70F in the summer. 

Sounds like returning the bottles to warmer temps and giving them a bit more time is the ticket.   Good luck!

+1

Back when I used to bottle this is exactly what I did and I also would bring the bottles upstairs to condition in the warmer environment in Winter. I'd put them in a spare bedroom. For me the basement was too cold during the winter to properly carb the bottles. The yeast can die off and become inactive if it's too cold for too long and you'll never get them carbonated if you can't revive them. This happened to me a few times in the early days ( 10 years ago ).

10
Ingredients / Re: Dry Hopping
« on: November 07, 2013, 02:01:21 PM »
hey all -

i just brewed an IPA that calls for 2 ounces of Cascade hops after 7 days in the primary.  the recipe i was using was for a 5 gallon batch, but i ended up doubling the recipe to 10 gallons.  can i just add 4 ounces of hops, or is it more complicated than that?  i know that doubling a recipe isn't always as simple as just doubling the malt/hop bill...

thanks for your help.

You are correct in that doubling isn't always that simple but at the home brew scales we make beer, it's not as big of an issue. It's not an issue whatsoever with dry hopping. Just double it or go moar bigger if you like aroma.

I concur with the process of racking and then dry hopping as being a bit better having done it both ways as well. You get a bit more aroma more dependably.

BUT - I frequently dry hop in the primary anyway because lazy!
Also no or less risk of oxidation during racking which I've done and which has ruined a few beers for me.
You don't want any air leaks in the racking cane / hose interface and you don't want splashing. Purge the receiving vessel - carboy or keg or whatever with CO2 if you can. I like to use 2 canes. I use the ubiquitous siphon racking cane in the primary and use a straight acrylic cane in the receiving vessel so I don't have to fight with the hose curling and falling out of the vessel. I purge with CO2 usually.

My most recent IPA was 1.065 OG pitched S05 yeast, fermented in the mid 60's and I waited 10 days for the primary to be visibly complete before putting 5oz of hops in the carboy. Cascade was not one of them but I like those ( doesn't everyone? ) I like all the krausen to be sunk and most of the dusty yeast to settle before throwing the dry hops in there. No airlock activity should be observed as others have stated.
I also feel if it takes 10 to 12 days whatever for the beer to clear to a certain point, that's how long I'll wait to dry hop. I usually go 7 days at the most out of convenience as I like to brew and rack on weekends.  I've found little difference between 4 and 7 days dry hop effect save for better settling of the hops when they sit longer but I don't rush things. Beer needs time and the beer is ready on it's own terms.
I don't recommend letting them sit longer than 14 days and the one time I did that, I did not care for the results.

I would imagine you have 2 carboys and the batch is split. You doubled the recipe so you should double ( at least! ) the dry hops and put 2oz in each. I would try 4oz in one, and 2oz in the other and see if you can tell the difference.

11
Hop Growing / Re: Drying Hops
« on: October 10, 2013, 01:11:05 PM »
I just lay them out on an old windowscreen in my basement for 4-5 days. I figure a few days before I get them in the freezer (or beer) isn't going to be too harmful.

I thought the same about heat.
I built an oast with just fans and no heat. They dried in about two or three days easily and have fresh smell. It's not a hard project if you have the tools, time, and some basic skills. I happened to have some old PC type 120mm fans lying around too. I made it completely from scratch without any plan and used pine boards, luan ply, chop saw, table saw, wood glue, 16 gauge pin gun, staple gun, and some fiberglass screen. Took me half a day. I have four layers and can make more if needed for next year. My garage smelled pretty dank for a few days.


12
Hop Growing / Re: Home grown brew day!
« on: October 10, 2013, 12:47:47 PM »
Harvested my hops the other day, now it's time to get them dancing.
American Brown
8# Washington Select
1.5# crystal 40
1/2# chocolate
2 oz HG Centennial FWH
2 oz HG Cascade at 60
2 oz HG Cascade at 15
1056 at 67°

Seems like too much hops, but I have no idea the alpha content. I'm assuming by smell only that it's about 50% of normal. So I should come in at about 45-50 IBUs

How fun is this?

It's very fun! That recipe looks tasty.
But as you noted, when you add up your time and the investment to grow them, financially it's more silly than trying to justify brewing your own beer to save money. I just do it for fun.

I have first year Columbus, Chinook, Horizon, and Centennial. All three did well with the Chinook and Columbus giving great yields considering their early development. Water regularly is key!

I've followed the same recipe formulation guideline - 50% alpha estimated. I like to use them 20 minutes and later though and I ramp up my recipe by 1.5 gallons and use a lot of them. I use pellets from my LHBS for bittering.

I just brewed Jamil's "West Coast Blaster" at 7.00 gallons and added 3oz of home grown Horizon at flame out. There were other hop additions earlier but my estimate of loss was spot-on and I ended up with 5.5gal in the carboy. The aroma from the Horizon is very mild and rather disappointing however.

I expect different results from the Chinook and Columbus just based on smell when I vacuum bagged them and put them in the freezer. I still plan on bombing the heck out of an IPA with them using massive amounts late and steeping for max effect next brew.

I don't know about others here but I find dry hopping with whole cones a PITA because of both racking difficulties afterwards and getting them in my glass carboy to begin with. I dry hop in the keg instead sometimes.

GYOH!

13
Gravity setup would be quite tall and require a ladder. Pump is nice  but you'll soon discover you want fittings and hoses and clamps. The only other techniques I've heard of involve using pulleys or block and tackle to raise containers full of hot liquor or mash.
Still seems dangerous to me. Personally I like my pump and my setup and don't plan to go back to a gravity setup.

14
Ingredients / Re: I Want to Buy Hop Crowns
« on: August 27, 2013, 10:45:30 AM »
http://www.greatlakeshops.com/ Tell Lynn that B-Hoppy sent you and he'll throw an 'extra' in for ya!  Hoppy Trails~

+1

Bought Chinook, Columbus, and Horizon crowns from them last spring. They were all great plants and have grown very well. Check their site for more information. You get a disease free tested product from them that will give you usable yield your first year and a significant head start over a rhizome.

15
Equipment and Software / Re: Pump disconnects
« on: August 07, 2013, 10:25:07 AM »
Don't forget about aluminum, I have been using aluminum camlocks for the past 3 years with great success. Got them from proflowdynamics.com.

good luck with your up-grade

tom

p.s. what's next, a new SS braid  : )

Outside of the obviously higher cost and therefore likely larger margins, I'm curious why Proflowdynamics.com catagorizes the SS camlocks as "Home Brew" camlocks and the AL models not?

Honestly if I'd known about them beforehand, I would have tried the AL version. They are a lot less money and if they work well, then that's the way to go.
I bought mine from a LHBS Adventures in Homebrewing in MI and they only carried the SS version.

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