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Messages - TrippleRippleBrewer

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Beer Recipes / Re: APA recipe feedback
« on: June 04, 2014, 08:57:35 PM »
OK this sounds familiar now. It's been so long!
I don't want to get too far off topic but...

Have had the discussion with my brewing friends about the whole idea of session IPA so I'm with you guys now.
I think I'm so used to drinking cans of it from Founders that I've sort of accepted the term even though when I first heard it I thought it was a bit silly too. APA with a BU/GU ratio close 1 to 1 and a name that's a marketing gimmick in a market where anything "IPA" is immensely popular even with people who don't really know beer, but think they do. The term American Pale Ale is a marketing dud in comparison. This isn't just a hopped up pale ale, it's session IPA!

I will say one positive aspect possibly might be the more widespread distribution of the term "session" for beer style to the general public. I have met a number of people who like craft beer and don't have any idea what that means. First time I saw it in print was when I was in Hood River and had some Full Sail Session lager many years ago. It was a new beer at the time and I thought it was in response to the resurgence of popularity of PBR but it probably was not.

Brewing Saturday and lots of cleaning and prep to do. First brew session of the year for me and all my gear is a mess. I even lost a carboy over the winter because I left it in the garage full of PBW and it froze solid when temps dropped below zero up here.

Beer Recipes / Re: APA recipe feedback
« on: June 04, 2014, 08:25:25 PM »

I guess I'm sort of going for the session IPA type thing.

But...I thought you were brewing an APA??

Umkay I'm out of the loop here.

Denny please elaborate.

I like my APA a bit hoppy. Did I open worm can?

Beer Recipes / Re: APA recipe feedback
« on: June 04, 2014, 07:21:04 PM »
Thanks guys - appreciate the feedback!
Honestly can't remember the last beer I brewed with no crystal in it but I brew mostly IPA and a sort of standardized recipe protocol I guess. Looking to branch out this year a bit and get into more sessionable styles.

I have all sorts of options for dry hop including Moteka, Amarillo, Citra, and probably others. My freezer is a disorganized mess of bags of hops and I need to go through it and inventory.

For water I build my own from distilled and use an on-line tool, weigh out my salts with a scale etc.
The chosen profile for this water was high in SO4 - light colored and slightly bitter style.

I guess I'm sort of going for the session IPA type thing.

Thanks again guys

Beer Recipes / APA recipe feedback
« on: June 04, 2014, 06:41:16 PM »
I need to brew and use up ingredients I bought last fall. Trouble is what I have for base grains isn't what I'd typically use for an APA, which is what I want to brew.

Without getting into too much detail, my APA is going to have the following typical specs:

  • Mid 1.050's ish OG
  • Around 40 IBU from Apollo for bittering at 60
  • Cascade and Amarillo at 10 and flameout for flavor and aroma
  • SanDiego Super yeast from WLP

My base grains are a blend of Weyerman Pale malt, Weyerman Pils, some 40l and maybe some Munich or Melanoidin for a little malty action. This is what I have on hand as well as some other grains but not in significant quantity.

So far my thoughts are to use 6lbs of the Pale ( all I have ) and around 4lbs of the Pils ( I have a 10lb bag ) with a half pound each of 40L and Munich for a little color and flavor.

What am I going for?
A crisp and refreshing APA I can session with plenty of citrus and grapefruit flavor.

My other idea was to flip the Pils and Pale around, go 6lbs Pils and 4lbs Pale, ditch the Munich and go for a lighter colored and flavored result.


Kegging and Bottling / Re: Clean your bottles !
« on: November 13, 2013, 06:01:32 PM »
Ive been bottling from day one because I don't feel Keging is practical for me. Taking a keg to a friends house is a bit of a pain.
Filling a growler quick off the tap is a huge pain?

You beat me to it. I like bottles but....
In my opinion NOTHING about kegging makes it less practical or more work than bottling.
My beer is better than it ever was in bottles, it lasts longer, and it is so much easier to deal with packaging I can't say enough good things about kegging. It changed the hobby for me dramatically and I'll never go back. This topic was reminder for me of staring through bottles looking for junk on the bottoms or in the neck and all the PBW I used to go through soaking them. So glad to be done with that I hated it.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Low Carbonation in Bottles
« on: November 13, 2013, 05:54:28 PM »
No need to stir up the sugar water in the beer.  When I bottle carb, I just put the sugar solution in the bucket first and then rack the beer on top of it in the bottleing bucket.  That has always led to consistent bottle carbination levels. 

I share your hesitation too stir up finished beer in an oxygen enviornment!!  I usually get carbed bottles in about two weeks this way when my basement is at 60 to 65F in the winter time...and about a week to 10 days when the basement is at 65 to 70F in the summer. 

Sounds like returning the bottles to warmer temps and giving them a bit more time is the ticket.   Good luck!


Back when I used to bottle this is exactly what I did and I also would bring the bottles upstairs to condition in the warmer environment in Winter. I'd put them in a spare bedroom. For me the basement was too cold during the winter to properly carb the bottles. The yeast can die off and become inactive if it's too cold for too long and you'll never get them carbonated if you can't revive them. This happened to me a few times in the early days ( 10 years ago ).

Ingredients / Re: Dry Hopping
« on: November 07, 2013, 09:01:21 PM »
hey all -

i just brewed an IPA that calls for 2 ounces of Cascade hops after 7 days in the primary.  the recipe i was using was for a 5 gallon batch, but i ended up doubling the recipe to 10 gallons.  can i just add 4 ounces of hops, or is it more complicated than that?  i know that doubling a recipe isn't always as simple as just doubling the malt/hop bill...

thanks for your help.

You are correct in that doubling isn't always that simple but at the home brew scales we make beer, it's not as big of an issue. It's not an issue whatsoever with dry hopping. Just double it or go moar bigger if you like aroma.

I concur with the process of racking and then dry hopping as being a bit better having done it both ways as well. You get a bit more aroma more dependably.

BUT - I frequently dry hop in the primary anyway because lazy!
Also no or less risk of oxidation during racking which I've done and which has ruined a few beers for me.
You don't want any air leaks in the racking cane / hose interface and you don't want splashing. Purge the receiving vessel - carboy or keg or whatever with CO2 if you can. I like to use 2 canes. I use the ubiquitous siphon racking cane in the primary and use a straight acrylic cane in the receiving vessel so I don't have to fight with the hose curling and falling out of the vessel. I purge with CO2 usually.

My most recent IPA was 1.065 OG pitched S05 yeast, fermented in the mid 60's and I waited 10 days for the primary to be visibly complete before putting 5oz of hops in the carboy. Cascade was not one of them but I like those ( doesn't everyone? ) I like all the krausen to be sunk and most of the dusty yeast to settle before throwing the dry hops in there. No airlock activity should be observed as others have stated.
I also feel if it takes 10 to 12 days whatever for the beer to clear to a certain point, that's how long I'll wait to dry hop. I usually go 7 days at the most out of convenience as I like to brew and rack on weekends.  I've found little difference between 4 and 7 days dry hop effect save for better settling of the hops when they sit longer but I don't rush things. Beer needs time and the beer is ready on it's own terms.
I don't recommend letting them sit longer than 14 days and the one time I did that, I did not care for the results.

I would imagine you have 2 carboys and the batch is split. You doubled the recipe so you should double ( at least! ) the dry hops and put 2oz in each. I would try 4oz in one, and 2oz in the other and see if you can tell the difference.

Hop Growing / Re: Drying Hops
« on: October 10, 2013, 08:11:05 PM »
I just lay them out on an old windowscreen in my basement for 4-5 days. I figure a few days before I get them in the freezer (or beer) isn't going to be too harmful.

I thought the same about heat.
I built an oast with just fans and no heat. They dried in about two or three days easily and have fresh smell. It's not a hard project if you have the tools, time, and some basic skills. I happened to have some old PC type 120mm fans lying around too. I made it completely from scratch without any plan and used pine boards, luan ply, chop saw, table saw, wood glue, 16 gauge pin gun, staple gun, and some fiberglass screen. Took me half a day. I have four layers and can make more if needed for next year. My garage smelled pretty dank for a few days.

Hop Growing / Re: Home grown brew day!
« on: October 10, 2013, 07:47:47 PM »
Harvested my hops the other day, now it's time to get them dancing.
American Brown
8# Washington Select
1.5# crystal 40
1/2# chocolate
2 oz HG Centennial FWH
2 oz HG Cascade at 60
2 oz HG Cascade at 15
1056 at 67°

Seems like too much hops, but I have no idea the alpha content. I'm assuming by smell only that it's about 50% of normal. So I should come in at about 45-50 IBUs

How fun is this?

It's very fun! That recipe looks tasty.
But as you noted, when you add up your time and the investment to grow them, financially it's more silly than trying to justify brewing your own beer to save money. I just do it for fun.

I have first year Columbus, Chinook, Horizon, and Centennial. All three did well with the Chinook and Columbus giving great yields considering their early development. Water regularly is key!

I've followed the same recipe formulation guideline - 50% alpha estimated. I like to use them 20 minutes and later though and I ramp up my recipe by 1.5 gallons and use a lot of them. I use pellets from my LHBS for bittering.

I just brewed Jamil's "West Coast Blaster" at 7.00 gallons and added 3oz of home grown Horizon at flame out. There were other hop additions earlier but my estimate of loss was spot-on and I ended up with 5.5gal in the carboy. The aroma from the Horizon is very mild and rather disappointing however.

I expect different results from the Chinook and Columbus just based on smell when I vacuum bagged them and put them in the freezer. I still plan on bombing the heck out of an IPA with them using massive amounts late and steeping for max effect next brew.

I don't know about others here but I find dry hopping with whole cones a PITA because of both racking difficulties afterwards and getting them in my glass carboy to begin with. I dry hop in the keg instead sometimes.


Gravity setup would be quite tall and require a ladder. Pump is nice  but you'll soon discover you want fittings and hoses and clamps. The only other techniques I've heard of involve using pulleys or block and tackle to raise containers full of hot liquor or mash.
Still seems dangerous to me. Personally I like my pump and my setup and don't plan to go back to a gravity setup.

Ingredients / Re: I Want to Buy Hop Crowns
« on: August 27, 2013, 05:45:30 PM » Tell Lynn that B-Hoppy sent you and he'll throw an 'extra' in for ya!  Hoppy Trails~


Bought Chinook, Columbus, and Horizon crowns from them last spring. They were all great plants and have grown very well. Check their site for more information. You get a disease free tested product from them that will give you usable yield your first year and a significant head start over a rhizome.

Equipment and Software / Re: Pump disconnects
« on: August 07, 2013, 05:25:07 PM »
Don't forget about aluminum, I have been using aluminum camlocks for the past 3 years with great success. Got them from

good luck with your up-grade


p.s. what's next, a new SS braid  : )

Outside of the obviously higher cost and therefore likely larger margins, I'm curious why catagorizes the SS camlocks as "Home Brew" camlocks and the AL models not?

Honestly if I'd known about them beforehand, I would have tried the AL version. They are a lot less money and if they work well, then that's the way to go.
I bought mine from a LHBS Adventures in Homebrewing in MI and they only carried the SS version.

Equipment and Software / Re: Keggle not kegel
« on: August 06, 2013, 08:20:48 PM »
I've used both keggle and 14 gallon flat bottom kettle and they both work the same on my burner. My 14 gallon kettle came with ball valve, sight glass and diverter plate and (importantly) tight fitting lid. much prefer brewing on the latter. Maybe a little more  expensive but has lasted 10 years thus far.

Agree keggle route is cheaper, just be sure you find a decommissioned one.

I think you have a great point here for anyone looking at getting a new or upgraded BK. The flat bottom with a thicker sandwiched base type kettle is probably a better piece. You can more easily utilize a hops dam or a device like a hop blocker with it and kettle losses might tend to be less. That bowl shaped bottom on my 15 gal  Keggle holds a lot of wort ( and trub ) and you have to tilt it to get the last of the wort. I have adjusted many of my recipes about 1 gallon larger in volume to compensate.

Or you can install a dip tube.

Mine plugged frequently so I quit using it. It also hits my IC and combined with my thermometer probe ti won't allow the IC to sit all the way down in the wort.

Occasionally I'll screw in a 1/2 copper elbow with male pipe adapter and that helps somewhat but it's still not ideal. The other dip tube I have is 1/2 inch stainless and runs out into the center of the keggle. Pellets plug it up the times I've used it.

Beer Recipes / Re: Fresh-n-wet harvest ale ideas
« on: August 06, 2013, 07:56:23 PM »
I have Columbus, Chinook, Centennial, and Horizon growing. All are first year, so I won't have a lot even though most of them were actually developed into small plants by the time I planted them. I bought them from Great Lakes Hops here in MI.

Only Centennial are close to done in my case. I will need to wait a couple more weeks at least.
I plan an IPA with maybe half my harvest and I'll vacuum bag and freeze the rest.

Because the alpha is unknown, I will bitter with something like Galena or Magnum and then add large doses of wet hops at 10 minutes and then at flameout. I'll perform a hop stand for maybe 30 to 40 minutes before I run off. At least that's the plan so far. Not sure on how much I'll use but I was figuring on three to four times typical dried amount for the wet additions. It all depends on my harvest frankly. I may dry hop with the dried later.

Last year I brewed an APA with nothing but home grown whole hops. Cascade and Centennial exclusively were used. I moved and left the Cascades behind at my old place.

They were dried however and bagged and I just went a little heavy on the additions. I took a WAG and figured they were maybe 50% of typical alpha for commercial equivalent. The recipe used 40L crystal and was in the mid 50's for OG. I was expecting the possibility of a session IPA because of the larger hops additions but it came out great and very well balanced. It had lots of flavor too.

Hope this helps.

Equipment and Software / Re: Overkill?
« on: August 06, 2013, 07:28:20 PM »
Wow I guess well beyond nano! Very nice.
I checked out the site - love the variety of brews on tap.
If I'm ever down your way, I'll make sure to check it out.

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