Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - TrippleRippleBrewer

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 8
Just a follow-up on this beer which I brewed June 1st.

  • I used RO water and added 1/4tsp each Calcium Chloride and Gypsum to the mash and sparge water respectively. This was a crapshoot guess and I need to get Brunwater setup on my laptop for future water profile work
  • I used a blend of Pilsner and Vienna malts for base malt instead of straight Pils
  • Mash was 149 for about 90 minutes
  • Yeast was a blend of one vial WLP300 and 3/4 packet rehydrated Fermentis WB06 Probably could have used even less, or ditched using it altogether with this beer
  • I oxygentated the wort with Oxygen injection in the carboy for one minute and rocked it hard
  • VERY active fermentation within 12 hours. Fermented at 63 degrees for 8 days and kegged it

I did not take an OG or FG reading. Tried to take an OG but didn't save enough wort during runoff.
The beer is quite dry and slightly tart with aroma of banana but hardly any flavor of it. Very little if any clove or bubble gum. It's a little thin as well. It's drinkable but not balanced quite the way I would like.

I'm thinking due to the tartness of the yeast ( the WB06 from what I gather) and the low mash temp making the beer pretty dry, next time I should shoot for a mash in the mid 150's and cut some of my bittering IBU to balance it a bit better. Additionally I'd like a bit more banana and bubble gum out of it but that's not as critical. My wife likes it and it is quite drinkable and light so I'm sure I'll have a chance to try brewing it again before long.

Thanks to those who contributed

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: FYI: Yeast Aeration
« on: June 04, 2013, 07:48:01 AM »
I highly recommend "Yeast" by Chris White and Jamil Zainasheff. It talks a little bit about aeration and it references a study that shows that VHG (very high gravity) beers, would benefit a great deal with adding a 2nd dose of oxygen 12 to 18 hours after inoculation.

Here is the study:

I wanted to figure out what the study considered "very high gravity" so, I read the study and turns out a VHG beer is one at or higher than 18 PLATO (1074 OG). I didn't really think 1074 was "VERY" high... oh well...

Adding a 2nd dose of oxygen around 12 - 18 hours will reduce fermentation time by 33% and reduce acetaldehyde and diacetyl production for much tastier beers.

I thought some of you would like to know.

Keep brewing,


FWIW I have that book as well. Loved it and learned a lot from it, but need to reference it more often for things such as this. I recall the information on starters and yeast propagation is great. I have no plans for a lab, starting a bank, or counting cells but it's worth having the information and understanding it anyway.

Think it would help with something like a 1.080 Dopplebock style done with Chico ale yeast?

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: FYI: Yeast Aeration
« on: June 03, 2013, 10:45:42 AM »
I brew very few beers bigger than 1.070 but I use oxygen tank and stainless aeration stone quite often anyway. I go with a short 30 second application, cap the carboy and rock it hard for a couple minutes. Seems to work a lot better than just rocking it without the O2. Beers seem to start quicker and ferment out sooner  with less chance for diacetyl than when done without.

November 2011 issue Zymurgy called "Cold Fermentations" has a great article about comparing various fermentation temps with both the Wyeast 3068 and WLP 300 as well as Kolsch yeasts.

From my memory in reading it this morning whilst on the throne ( hope that's not TMI ):

Blind tasting consensus basically showed the 3068 fermented at around 62 gave the best tasting sample overall with well balanced Banana and Clove. 68-70 fermentation temps for both strains gave more clove and in the case of the Wyeast strain, a bit more bubble gum. The WLP300 was quite spicy at this temp and was much better at the lower temperature. It was "clean" and well balanced.

Considering that I have both the WLP300 and Fermentis WB-06 without much ability to control fermentation temps and not time for a starter, I am thinking about blending them and going with wet T-shirt ( skin to win ! ) fermentation trick in a laundry tub with water and fan to try and keep it around 65 or so. In other words, just wing it and see how I like it.

Like the idea of blended base malts with the wheat. The recipe in the article is larger than typical Heffeweizen style at 1.060 but that actually sounds good to me. I'll probably use 2lbs Pils, 1lb Munich, 1lb Vienna and increase the wheat malt accordingly to stay in the 60/40 range wheat to base malt and try to hit a similar OG.

Using Crystal for around 14 IBU or so.

Thanks Guys!

My first thought was take off the head and take it apart. See what's going on with the impeller. Could be junk in there or some other problem binding up the impeller.

Sometimes I wonder what's going on with my brain. My last beer was an IPA and I wrote the recipe based on hops I thought I had, and turned out I actually had none of them in the freezer. I had other appropriate strains and scrambled and it was fine. I used all my 2 row for that beer though.

Checked my inventory and I don't have any 2row brewers malt, but I have 3lbs of Vienna and 2lbs Pils!
I'm going to try the Vienna. Love that malt anyway.

Took my own topic off topic a bit.

Thanks Guys

Thanks for that tip. I have two packets of WB-06 ready to try by the way and I later changed my mind and picked up a vial of WLP300 from my LHBS. The higher temps you've suggested are probably where I'll be at because I've just moved and I no longer have a fermentation fridge. Just going free air in my new basement and it's about 68 to 66 degrees most of the time.

One more question - thoughts on using Vienna instead of the two row pale?

My grist and OG is almost identical to what quattlebaum posted so it's about 60/40 wheat / pale malt. I am adding 5% torrified. Had a small amount of Munich in it instead of the aromatic but I would leave that out if using the Vienna.

Thanks Everyone!
Personally I'm more of a fan of the banana flavors from this yeast myself and thanks again for the tips guys.

I'd like to brew a German style Heffeweizen and wondered if anyone has experimented with this yeast using 2 row brewers instead of Pils malt? I know the traditional recipes call for pils malt but I have 2 row.
Originally I planned to brew 10 gallons and ferment half with S05 and the half with WLP300 but I brewed something else last weekend instead. I think this will still make a nice beer but I'm not sure of the results. I don't use this yeast often and it's been a couple years.

I recall reading in Zymurgy that some compound or protein in Pils malt contributes to the phenols generated  by this strain but I am not sure. I also recall some suggested techniques to enhance the phenolics - underpitch a bit, and ferment it colder at around 62 degrees if possible.

Just looking for some feedback on the above.

Thanks everyone

Beer Recipes / Re: 100% Vienna Malt Recipe Ideas
« on: December 18, 2012, 01:22:35 PM »
Sounds like a really nice beer. What yeast did you use?

I have yet to use Crystal in anything but I plan to soon. I think Zymurgy did a story using it as well as Mt. Hood and some others as potential substitutes for Hallertau in Pilsners. I'm curious about this hop.

"I may add some water to the fermenter tonight to drop it down to 1.044-1.046, but probably not."

Not sure what your experiences have been, but on every occasion I've added water to bring down OG, I've not cared for the results. I just leave it a bit big and roll with it as-is instead now.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: West Coast Ale dry yeast
« on: December 13, 2012, 02:44:25 PM »
"I like mine, it might actually be one of the top 5 beers I've brewed. The yeast, to me, seems more or less like US-05. I'd brew with it again. But since US-05 is a bit cheaper, I'd prolly just stick with that."


Yeast and Fermentation / Re: West Coast Ale dry yeast
« on: December 06, 2012, 04:48:57 PM »
You had signs of active fermentation within roughly a day. I'm willing to bet it turns out just fine. RDWHAHB
Yeah, I wouldn't worry about it.  I get nervous when I see NOTHING in 24 hours too, though.

And indeed it is fine. Kegged last night after a taste test.
Can't say to the OP this yeast is great since I mixed it with SO5 but my beer tastes fine to me. I didn't taste anything unpleasant and I plan to order more soon.

Ingredients / Re: Post your water report
« on: December 04, 2012, 05:06:46 PM »
Thanks Jeff,
I've yet to try brewing any homebrew using RO and adding salts. I've been just brewing with this water and winging it, and wondering about it. I knew it was hard but didn't know much else until I finally had it tested.
Based on what you've told me, our city tap water is relatively useless for brewing.
I'm actually looking forward to brewing a beer using RO and additions now.


Ingredients / Re: Post your water report
« on: December 04, 2012, 08:42:27 AM »
Straight from the tap through a carbon filter for drinking water.
Southwest Michigan has hard ass water!

Tips and advice on what to do with this for brewing pale ales and lagers appreciated. I have brewed with it for years, occasionally cutting it with RO but usually not.

I have a Bopils fermenting that I put 1 gallon of this water to about 5 gallons RO for both mash and sparge.
Just a shot in the dark basically. This is why I wanted the report from Ward. :o

pH 7.4
Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) Est, ppm 472
Electrical Conductivity, mmho/cm 0.79
Cations / Anions, me/L 8.0 / 8.7
Sodium, Na 38
Potassium, K 2
Calcium, Ca 81
Magnesium, Mg 27
Total Hardness, CaCO3 315
Nitrate, NO3-N 0.3 (SAFE)
Sulfate, SO4-S 13
Chloride, Cl 78
Carbonate, CO3 < 1
Bicarbonate, HCO3 344
Total Alkalinity, CaCO3 282
Total Phosphorus, P 0.78
Total Iron, Fe 0.07

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: West Coast Ale dry yeast
« on: November 30, 2012, 06:01:57 AM »
Twenty hours? Repitching is generally considered unnecessary even up to 72 hours IMO.

I'm willing to bet with a tremendous degree of certainty that you didn't need to pitch the 05.

I'm just not accustomed to waiting this long to see some signs of krausen!
For the 6 plus years I've been brewing I've never had to wait more than a day to see the typical, lacy formation on the surface of the wort. Chalk this one up to inexperience I guess.

So we have a 1.060 measured OG with 33gm of dried yeast pitched total. 22gm re-hydrated and 11gm pitched dry.

Any thoughts on how it's going to taste, or suggestions on what I do with it as soon as primary ferment seems complete?

I hope it's drinkable but if not, I'll just take the lesson for what it's worth, feed it to the sewer system and try that yeast again another day.

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 8