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Messages - TrippleRippleBrewer

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Equipment and Software / Re: Keggle not kegel
« on: August 06, 2013, 11:21:28 AM »
I've used both keggle and 14 gallon flat bottom kettle and they both work the same on my burner. My 14 gallon kettle came with ball valve, sight glass and diverter plate and (importantly) tight fitting lid. much prefer brewing on the latter. Maybe a little more  expensive but has lasted 10 years thus far.

Agree keggle route is cheaper, just be sure you find a decommissioned one.

I think you have a great point here for anyone looking at getting a new or upgraded BK. The flat bottom with a thicker sandwiched base type kettle is probably a better piece. You can more easily utilize a hops dam or a device like a hop blocker with it and kettle losses might tend to be less. That bowl shaped bottom on my 15 gal  Keggle holds a lot of wort ( and trub ) and you have to tilt it to get the last of the wort. I have adjusted many of my recipes about 1 gallon larger in volume to compensate.

Equipment and Software / Re: Overkill?
« on: August 06, 2013, 11:13:36 AM »

My favorite is using a chainsaw to cut your butter.

He must be running a NANO size rig. Major large conical!

Equipment and Software / Re: Pump disconnects
« on: August 06, 2013, 11:11:18 AM »
Next you use females on the kettle and tun and males on the hoses, or vice versa?  Edumacate me!
I put male ends on kettles since the female side contains a rubber gasket and the cam levers that you must squeeze with your hand to lock it. I want both of those away from the flame.

Good call!

I have it the other way and put male ends on the hoses and females on the BK and HLT respectively.
Why? I guess I went with anatomical logic. Hose = male. Put male ends on the hoses!
Really I didn't think about it more intently but your answer makes more sense.

That said, I haven't had a problem getting burned on the camlocks yet, but it probably depends on your burner stands and vessels. I can see it being an issue with a flat bottom pot like my HLT since the ball valve is so low but it still hasn't happened for me. It's way out there on the end of my ball valve.
My BK is a keggle so it doesn't get hot enough to bother me and never sees flamage.

Most of the high heat through the camlocks for me has been when handling them after sparging because I switch one of my hoses connected to the pump from the HLT to the BK to recirculate and sometimes I do that too soon after sparge is done. Don't need to but have done it and they are hot enough to be noticeable, that's for sure.

Equipment and Software / Re: Pump disconnects
« on: August 06, 2013, 09:46:33 AM »
Nice thing about the polysulphone (or however the hell you spell it) is they don't conduct heat like the stainless. dam the stainless get HOT - like, permanent scarring hot. They do wear out after a while though.

Obviously you really should just bit the bullet and go tri-clamp for the upgrade. ;)

 Dude, i'm trying to find a balance between something decent and the fact that I won't live long enough to really get the utility of top of the line stuff!

I like my stainless camlocks and haven't had any issues with getting burned or anything. About my only complaint is they can be a little tricky to lock down, especially if the seal in the female ends is cold. The cam portion of the locks rubs metal to metal when you lock them down and I would image the aluminum version would suffer from galling over time. It's really nice having pre-terminated hoses like the pros use. Just soak in PBW or Starsan when necessary and go.

Think of the stainless you buy as heirloom quality goods. It's going to outlast all of us!

Equipment and Software / Re: Chilling idea - thoughts and suggestions
« on: August 06, 2013, 08:29:05 AM »
Last brew session I gained a couple degrees cooler wort by simply running the tap water until I hit 80 degrees and then I connected my smaller IC to the tap water line. I submerged it in a bucket of ice water and ran the output into my larger IC in the kettle. It bought me about 4 degrees more cooling. What really helped was moving the IC around inside both the kettle and the ice bucket!

Equipment and Software / Re: Chilling idea - thoughts and suggestions
« on: July 30, 2013, 10:05:16 AM »
This is an issue of faster, and colder chilling needed.

Then I had a thought. I already have a pump. Why not use my March pump and my MTLT for holding the ice water?

I did this until I got a submersible pump. Now, I can recirc ice water and wort at the same time. Keeping the wort moving (by constantly stirring or recirculating) is the big time saver. Making a pump do it allows me to clean while chilling.

Another great idea. Just basically tag team chill that wort. Recirc ice water and recirc the wort for max effects. Of course, this means I buy a submersible pump instead of a plate chiller, which is a cheaper approach I suppose.

Equipment and Software / Re: Chilling idea - thoughts and suggestions
« on: July 30, 2013, 10:00:08 AM »
Sounds like it should work.  However, I would think if you're really looking for more significant time savings you might just want to invest in an inline plate chiller.  You can use your IC in an ice bath to pump prechilled water through the plate chiller and have your wort at pitching temp immediately.  I am able to go from boiling to 68* in no time with my setup.  That allows me to pitch as I'm filling up the carboys.

I used to use a CFC and chill wort as I drained this way. What I found was my IPA's were far more bitter than using an IC because of the time to gravity drain the kettle and the amount of wort sitting at near boiling temps with flameout hops isomerizing and adding bittering. At least that was my theory. Using the pump to recirculate the wort before draining it would solve this issue using your suggested technique.

I have a 3/8" IC I could try using in an ice water bath bucket as a pre-chiller of the tap water. I've tried this in the past and didn't see appreciable results though. Maybe I need to try it again with less water in the bath and more ice for a lower temp drop or something.

I made my 1/2" x 50' IC and it won't fit in a bucket - gotta use something moar bigger like a laundry tub!

Thanks for the ideas!

Ingredients / Re: DIPA Hops - Mosaic, Cascade, Apollo
« on: July 30, 2013, 08:19:18 AM »
Curious how it turns out as I just ordered a half pound of Apollo from NB. I've never used it before and I really want to experiment with this hop. I am considering blending with Cascades and go for a big grapefruit flavor IPA. Cascades will go in for 20 minutes, 5, and flameout for a hop stand of 30 minutes or so. Considering putting some Apollo in at whirlpool with them and the hop stand.

Keep us updated!

Equipment and Software / Chilling idea - thoughts and suggestions
« on: July 30, 2013, 08:07:22 AM »
This is an issue of faster, and colder chilling needed.

I recently moved and have learned a few things about my new water source which is a well and apparently not all that cold. I use a Keggle for a brew kettle, a March pump for transfer of hot liquor to my cooler MTLT, gravity drain into my kettle from the MTLT and a 50' x 1/2 inch copper IC for chilling. I used to use the pump to recirculate wort during chilling but it didn't buy me that much time savings and cleaning and sanitizing the pump each time didn't seem worth the hassle anymore.

 In the fall it typically takes 20 minutes to get below 70 degrees but last brew session it took 30 minutes just to hit 75 and I couldn't move it any colder. It's summer now and the water spigot is farther from my brew stand so lots of garden hose is sitting in the yard, helping heat the well water a few degrees perhaps.

Anyway I'm considering using ice and initially thought about buying a submersible utility pump. I thought I could put that in a bucket of ice water and have a short section of garden hose to hook it to my IC for chilling from about 100 degrees down to pitching temp. Use the well water to go from boiling to 100 first, then switch to this immersion setup. I could recirculate the chill water and just add ice to the bucket to keep it cold as possible.

Then I had a thought. I already have a pump. Why not use my March pump and my MTLT for holding the ice water? I wash it during the boil anyway, so it's rinsed, and ready to use. I could set it on the brew stand so it's above the pump ( required for these pumps ), fill it with ice and water, hook it to my pump and use my pump to recirc the ice water through the IC. It's insulated to boot, which is better than a bucket and it's much bigger than a 6gal bucket. I use an Igloo ice cube 60qt capacity.

Does anybody else do this?
Am I making sense?

I think it will work great, I just want to know if anyone else is doing it and what experiences have been.

TIA for all replies.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: BRY-97 First Impression
« on: July 10, 2013, 07:41:35 AM »
Maybe it was the slightly higher temps - I usually ferment S05 around 65 degrees and this was 68 to 70 but this thing is done after just three days. I haven't taken a gravity reading but the krausen has sunk and it's starting to clear already. Can't get much of any airlock activity rocking it either. Only yeast I've seen go this fast is the WLP Sandiego super!

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: BRY-97 First Impression
« on: July 08, 2013, 12:01:01 PM »
Resurrecting this thread a bit, but I brewed a wheat on Saturday with this BRY-97 yeast. After reading reports from various sources on the web about slow starts, I decided to make a starter in my 2L flask with a packet of it just to be sure. The starter took off quickly and was done in about 12hrs which seemed promising. I put it in the fridge for a day before brewing.
On brew day, brought it to temp, and pitched it into relatively warm, 75 degree wort at around 3pm.

I ferment in an old fridge with a Johnson controller. I set it to 68 for this batch. Next morning it's rocking with a nice, large Krausen. NO problems with slow starts. I'm curious to see how it tastes and clears because I've been a regular user of S05 and would like to branch out to some other, neutral ale yeasts for my beers.

I also read this is rumored to be Pacman yeast? Has anyone confirmed this or does anyone have any links?

Just a follow-up on this beer which I brewed June 1st.

  • I used RO water and added 1/4tsp each Calcium Chloride and Gypsum to the mash and sparge water respectively. This was a crapshoot guess and I need to get Brunwater setup on my laptop for future water profile work
  • I used a blend of Pilsner and Vienna malts for base malt instead of straight Pils
  • Mash was 149 for about 90 minutes
  • Yeast was a blend of one vial WLP300 and 3/4 packet rehydrated Fermentis WB06 Probably could have used even less, or ditched using it altogether with this beer
  • I oxygentated the wort with Oxygen injection in the carboy for one minute and rocked it hard
  • VERY active fermentation within 12 hours. Fermented at 63 degrees for 8 days and kegged it

I did not take an OG or FG reading. Tried to take an OG but didn't save enough wort during runoff.
The beer is quite dry and slightly tart with aroma of banana but hardly any flavor of it. Very little if any clove or bubble gum. It's a little thin as well. It's drinkable but not balanced quite the way I would like.

I'm thinking due to the tartness of the yeast ( the WB06 from what I gather) and the low mash temp making the beer pretty dry, next time I should shoot for a mash in the mid 150's and cut some of my bittering IBU to balance it a bit better. Additionally I'd like a bit more banana and bubble gum out of it but that's not as critical. My wife likes it and it is quite drinkable and light so I'm sure I'll have a chance to try brewing it again before long.

Thanks to those who contributed

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: FYI: Yeast Aeration
« on: June 04, 2013, 07:48:01 AM »
I highly recommend "Yeast" by Chris White and Jamil Zainasheff. It talks a little bit about aeration and it references a study that shows that VHG (very high gravity) beers, would benefit a great deal with adding a 2nd dose of oxygen 12 to 18 hours after inoculation.

Here is the study:

I wanted to figure out what the study considered "very high gravity" so, I read the study and turns out a VHG beer is one at or higher than 18 PLATO (1074 OG). I didn't really think 1074 was "VERY" high... oh well...

Adding a 2nd dose of oxygen around 12 - 18 hours will reduce fermentation time by 33% and reduce acetaldehyde and diacetyl production for much tastier beers.

I thought some of you would like to know.

Keep brewing,


FWIW I have that book as well. Loved it and learned a lot from it, but need to reference it more often for things such as this. I recall the information on starters and yeast propagation is great. I have no plans for a lab, starting a bank, or counting cells but it's worth having the information and understanding it anyway.

Think it would help with something like a 1.080 Dopplebock style done with Chico ale yeast?

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: FYI: Yeast Aeration
« on: June 03, 2013, 10:45:42 AM »
I brew very few beers bigger than 1.070 but I use oxygen tank and stainless aeration stone quite often anyway. I go with a short 30 second application, cap the carboy and rock it hard for a couple minutes. Seems to work a lot better than just rocking it without the O2. Beers seem to start quicker and ferment out sooner  with less chance for diacetyl than when done without.

November 2011 issue Zymurgy called "Cold Fermentations" has a great article about comparing various fermentation temps with both the Wyeast 3068 and WLP 300 as well as Kolsch yeasts.

From my memory in reading it this morning whilst on the throne ( hope that's not TMI ):

Blind tasting consensus basically showed the 3068 fermented at around 62 gave the best tasting sample overall with well balanced Banana and Clove. 68-70 fermentation temps for both strains gave more clove and in the case of the Wyeast strain, a bit more bubble gum. The WLP300 was quite spicy at this temp and was much better at the lower temperature. It was "clean" and well balanced.

Considering that I have both the WLP300 and Fermentis WB-06 without much ability to control fermentation temps and not time for a starter, I am thinking about blending them and going with wet T-shirt ( skin to win ! ) fermentation trick in a laundry tub with water and fan to try and keep it around 65 or so. In other words, just wing it and see how I like it.

Like the idea of blended base malts with the wheat. The recipe in the article is larger than typical Heffeweizen style at 1.060 but that actually sounds good to me. I'll probably use 2lbs Pils, 1lb Munich, 1lb Vienna and increase the wheat malt accordingly to stay in the 60/40 range wheat to base malt and try to hit a similar OG.

Using Crystal for around 14 IBU or so.

Thanks Guys!

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