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Messages - troybinso

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1
General Homebrew Discussion / Berliner Weisse and Gose
« on: January 07, 2017, 04:23:19 PM »
Is there a good way to do a split batch where you make 10 gallons of Berliner Weisse and then post fermentation add the coriander and salt? Salt seems pretty easy - just make a salty solution and dump it in, but what about the coriander?

2
All Grain Brewing / Re: Brewing Science vs. Citizen Science
« on: December 27, 2016, 08:31:17 AM »
2.) The WRONG - the HSA experiments at Brulosophy. Here they are testing beers that are both oxidized. The stipulation that one is more "highly" oxidized is irrelevant because they are both subjected to oxidation beyond a certain threshold.

What is the threshold for oxidation preboil?

3
Going Pro / Re: Interview questions
« on: December 09, 2016, 07:51:43 AM »
Had the interview last night and it went well. No surprise questions. I am not very good at telling "the story" of the brewery, but I don't think I ever put my foot in my mouth. Thanks for the suggestions.
The biggest question and hurdle I have faced is when asked about other local competitors. Be sure to be kind and gracious even if you don't like the other brewery/breweries or their beer.

They will usually ask you about your brewing experience or what inspired you to brew.

Outside of that pretty straightforward.

She didn't ask about local competitors, but I am always careful to speak well of them. There is no point badmouthing another local brewer - you can come off as catty and disrespectful.

4
Going Pro / Re: Interview questions
« on: December 08, 2016, 12:01:38 PM »
Thanks guys.

Based on my experience, I'd be surprised it they got into that much depth.

I wonder if they will ask my favorite curse word, or to omit the word balance when describing my beers. ;)

5
Going Pro / Interview questions
« on: December 08, 2016, 10:39:06 AM »
I am opening a brewery and the local newspaper is doing an article on breweries in my area. I am trying to anticipate some of the questions they will ask so I don't stumble through my answers like an idiot. Here are a few I expect.

tell me about the name of the brewery
what is your favorite beer/brewery
what kind of beer will you have on tap

What else would you expect of newspaper writer with average knowledge of beer and breweries to ask a new brewery that is about to open?

6
Beer Recipes / Re: session IPA
« on: December 02, 2016, 09:54:41 AM »
See if you can get an 8oz package of Mosaic. It works well as a single hop and then just split the bag between whirlpool and dry hop

7
Beer Recipes / Re: session IPA
« on: December 02, 2016, 09:52:10 AM »
I'm a big fan of this type of beer. Too bad you can only use wheat and barley. I put a pretty big dose of oats or rye in mine to get more mouthfeel. Also, on really low gravity beers I will add quite a bit of crystal malt - up to 10% of Caramel Pilsen from MFB. If you are going to give it a lot of hops I think it needs to have some body to back it up, otherwise it tasted like hoppy soda water.

I'd agree about using some of those intensely aromatic NZ/AU hops, but I'll disagree with the bitterness level. I just put a enough in at 60 minutes to get about 10 IBU, then I'll put about 4oz in at flame out (for 5 gallon batch). Hard to measure the IBU, but for a 1.038 beer I would guess it is around 25 IBU. Don't forget to dryhop with at least as much as whirlpool addition.

Edit: diagreeing about bitterness with erockrph. pete b snuck in a response at about the same time I did.

8
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Lactobacillus starter
« on: December 02, 2016, 09:38:44 AM »
OP here.

I already have the Omega Lactobacillus pack that I plan to use for a Berliner weisse type beer. My plan is to grow up a starter so that I can save some of it and be able to reuse it in the future for more of the same type of beer. It sounds like I am safe with just the low pH.

Since I am kettle souring then boiling, I won't really be able to harvest the lacto from the kettle - they will have sacrificed themselves for the good of the beer, and the cleanliness of the equipment.

I have heard that the handful of grain can work for this type of beer, but I would rather have a little more control over the process at this point. I know the pure strain works well, and is less likely to have a beer taste like poop or vomit.

The sauergut explanation on the Low oxygen website is pretty interesting. Hard to believe it is capable of so many different things throughout the brewing process. I might give a couple of those steps a try, although I rarely make lagers.

9
General Homebrew Discussion / Lactobacillus starter
« on: December 01, 2016, 01:02:19 PM »
I want to make a starter for a kettle soured beer with a pure culture of Lactobacillus, but I want to able to keep some of the starter aside so that I can use it in future batches. If I were to use most of the starter and pitch it in the kettle soured beer, can I expect the stuff that is left behind to be safe to use in a month? What if I feed it some starter wort occasionally? There shouldn't really be any alcohol in there to protect the wort from unwanted contaminants/pathogens, only a low pH.

10
Equipment and Software / Re: Innovative brewing equipment website
« on: November 06, 2016, 09:46:35 AM »
Agreed. Great service. And quick shipping - even across the country.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk


11
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Did NB sell out?
« on: October 19, 2016, 08:23:06 PM »
Do those that are anti AB also avoid Walmart, Target, Amazon, Home Depot, Lowes, Best Buy, Total Wine, Specs, BevMo? All of those can be considered anti competition.

I do my best to avoid those stores, but sometimes there aren't very many choices. If you live in a smaller town it can hard to shop local for things like clothes or hardware. Hardware stores and department stores have just closed in the past decade or so. I also avoid AB-inbev products, although it can be hard to keep up with which breweries have been bought out.

On the other hand, Northern Brewer is an online store - not unlike Amazon. There are a bunch of online homebrew stores that are comparable to NB in selection and price that are independently owned. I'd prefer to use them.

Finally I'll say that I'm not an absolutist. Sometimes I will use a big box store or an online store even though a local store might carry a similar product at a similar price. My plan is just to try to do a little bit better about helping out the people who have an interest in keeping the money that I spend within community that I live.

12
Ingredients / Re: Brewtan B
« on: October 13, 2016, 08:51:32 AM »
How are you keeping the water from reabsorbing oxygen as it cools to mash temp? Also how are you keeping oxygen out of the mash tun?

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13
Ingredients / Re: Brewtan B
« on: October 13, 2016, 07:40:55 AM »
I'll be curious to see where this discussion goes after people listen to what Joe has to say on today's podcast.

I gave it a listen. It's interesting to get his take on Brewtan B, and while most of what he said is technically correct, it's incorrect to conclude that Brewtan B prevents oxygen from reacting in the mash/boil altogether. I actually noticed that Joe hedged a bit on this - he said oxygen wouldn't react in the same way it normally would. He didn't say it wouldn't react at all.

Oxygen has more than one pathway to react with stuff in the mash. The Fenton reaction is only one of these pathways. Another set of major oxidative pathways are through naturally occurring enzymes found in the malt, such as lipoxygenase and polyphenol oxidase. I think polyphenol oxidase is the real bogeyman here, because we hypothesize that the simple, low molecular weight malt phenols are the main source of the fresh malt "it" flavor, and polyphenol oxidase is specifically made for catalyzing the oxidation of those phenols.

To use an analogy:

Using Brewtan B in oxygen-saturated water and expecting zero oxidation to take place is like mashing at 160 F and expecting no starch conversion to take place because you've denatured beta amylase at that temperature. It doesn't work, because you've overlooked the fact that alpha amylase is still active at 160 F and provides another pathway for the starch to convert.



This is a side-by-side picture of wort produced with a normal process (on the left) and wort made with the low-oxygen process (on the right). The color difference is indicative of the fact that the polyphenol oxidase enzyme has been inhibited. When polyphenol oxidase (which is the same type of enzyme that turns sliced apples or avocados brown when exposed to air) oxidizes the malt phenols into quinones, they polymerize to form reddish-brown polyphenols. The fresh malt flavors of the phenols disappear, and are replaced by a bitter malt flavor (George Fix called this "herbstoffe").

If Brewtan B doesn't make the wort several shades lighter (like the picture above), then it's not blocking all oxidative reactions in the mash.

I think that Brewtan B could absolutely be a useful tool, and i see it helping more post-fermentation because the Fenton reaction is also a big oxidative pathway in finished beer. So it could definitely help with shelf stability there - but I don't see how it can possibly be a magic bullet all by itself. Note that other commonly used additives like gelatin and Irish moss can also have metal chelating properties.
The image of those two glasses of wort clearly shows a difference in color. Can you elaborate on the specific differences between the process of producing each batch of wort?

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One wort was made with low o2 mashing procedures (light), the other was standard homebrewing procedures(dark).
The differences at that stage would be preboiled water and smb.

Wow. That is a pretty significant difference. Did you purge the mash tun of oxygen? If the only difference is SMB and preboiled water then that seems like a worthwhile couple of extra steps with hardly any effort.

14
Ingredients / Re: Brewtan B
« on: October 12, 2016, 09:40:14 PM »
I'll be curious to see where this discussion goes after people listen to what Joe has to say on today's podcast.

I gave it a listen. It's interesting to get his take on Brewtan B, and while most of what he said is technically correct, it's incorrect to conclude that Brewtan B prevents oxygen from reacting in the mash/boil altogether. I actually noticed that Joe hedged a bit on this - he said oxygen wouldn't react in the same way it normally would. He didn't say it wouldn't react at all.

Oxygen has more than one pathway to react with stuff in the mash. The Fenton reaction is only one of these pathways. Another set of major oxidative pathways are through naturally occurring enzymes found in the malt, such as lipoxygenase and polyphenol oxidase. I think polyphenol oxidase is the real bogeyman here, because we hypothesize that the simple, low molecular weight malt phenols are the main source of the fresh malt "it" flavor, and polyphenol oxidase is specifically made for catalyzing the oxidation of those phenols.

To use an analogy:

Using Brewtan B in oxygen-saturated water and expecting zero oxidation to take place is like mashing at 160 F and expecting no starch conversion to take place because you've denatured beta amylase at that temperature. It doesn't work, because you've overlooked the fact that alpha amylase is still active at 160 F and provides another pathway for the starch to convert.



This is a side-by-side picture of wort produced with a normal process (on the left) and wort made with the low-oxygen process (on the right). The color difference is indicative of the fact that the polyphenol oxidase enzyme has been inhibited. When polyphenol oxidase (which is the same type of enzyme that turns sliced apples or avocados brown when exposed to air) oxidizes the malt phenols into quinones, they polymerize to form reddish-brown polyphenols. The fresh malt flavors of the phenols disappear, and are replaced by a bitter malt flavor (George Fix called this "herbstoffe").

If Brewtan B doesn't make the wort several shades lighter (like the picture above), then it's not blocking all oxidative reactions in the mash.

I think that Brewtan B could absolutely be a useful tool, and i see it helping more post-fermentation because the Fenton reaction is also a big oxidative pathway in finished beer. So it could definitely help with shelf stability there - but I don't see how it can possibly be a magic bullet all by itself. Note that other commonly used additives like gelatin and Irish moss can also have metal chelating properties.
The image of those two glasses of wort clearly shows a difference in color. Can you elaborate on the specific differences between the process of producing each batch of wort?

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk


15
General Homebrew Discussion / flaked grains and cloudiness
« on: October 01, 2016, 09:11:33 AM »
Do flaked grains (rye, oats, wheat, etc.) at 15% cause a beer to be cloudy?

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