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Messages - troybinso

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121
That's a re-purposed stainless steel milk transport can.

you mean like this?

http://hambydairysupply.com/xcart/product.php?productid=1946

I guess you need to drill a 12mm hole in the lid for the air lock.

122
Beer Recipes / Re: An ale that tastes like a lger?
« on: June 01, 2014, 09:22:02 PM »
[quote author=erockrph link=topic=19471.msg248169#msg248169 date=1401679129

You can certainly brew a lager-type ale, but it's still going to taste like an ale. Although lager yeasts are noted for clean fermentations, they still have a distinct flavor profile.
[/quote]

Agreed. Lager and Ale yeast just taste different. You can have a "clean" ferment from either one and they will give a different flavor profile. If you want something to taste like a lager, use a lager yeast and ferment it at the right temperature. If you want to brew a beer with an ale yeast but you want to hide some of the ale features, use wy1056 or an equivalent and start fermentation around 60 degrees. It won't taste like a lager, but it will hide some ale-like qualities.

123
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Happy Accident
« on: May 31, 2014, 07:53:32 AM »
Isn't it possible that the source of contamination is the raspberries and not the yeast? If this is a split batch, did both parts get contaminated?

124
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Am I being too anal?
« on: May 19, 2014, 09:18:09 AM »
Typo and incorrect word fixed.  Yike.  I always read a post 2-3 times before I hit 'Post.'

I ferment in a stainless conical - I guess I also should have said that.  I can just put a tri-clamp cap on the lid, but I think it'll just suck air through the gasket.  I hear you all say that it doesn't matter, so on to the next 'system improvement project.'  Thanks for the input.

Can your conical take a little bit of pressure? You could connect you co2 tank at low pressure while chilling and you will have nothing to worry about.

125
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Am I being to anal?
« on: May 18, 2014, 06:11:42 PM »
There is only so much you can do about it if you are using a carboy. Even if you use a solid stopper then as soon as you take the stopper off it will suck in the ambient air. I guess you could put on a solid stopper, then crash cool and then let it warm back up before you transfer it. Also, you can use a solid stopper, then crash cool and then open the carboy and shoot in a few blasts of co2 before you close it back up. Not sure it is something to worry about, but if you are trying to save beer for a long time, the less oxygen the better.

Professional breweries have pressurizable conical tanks. Usually you will cap off the tank with just a little bit of fermentation left to go to start building up some pressure inside the tank. This allows the pressurized co2 to just be absorbed into the beer once it cools down, and even when you open the tank after chilling there is positive pressure.

126
Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: Central Washington Brewfest
« on: May 17, 2014, 09:40:50 PM »
I thought about going to the fest but couldn't make it. Just went to Bale Breaker in Yakima/Moxee and I was sure impressed. I love the field 41 pale anyway, but it just tastes better in that environment.

127
Beer Recipes / Re: Smoked Ham on Rye with Mustard Beer
« on: May 17, 2014, 07:53:42 AM »
If it is too intense to drink I bet you could cook it down and make a really amazing glaze out of it for an actual ham.

128
Beer Recipes / Re: Smoked Ham on Rye with Mustard Beer
« on: May 16, 2014, 02:02:43 PM »
Turmeric might be more useful in a much lighter colored beer. They won't hardly show up in your brown beer

129
Beer Recipes / Re: Smoked Ham on Rye with Mustard Beer
« on: May 16, 2014, 01:43:09 PM »
I'd say the only thing that is especially weird about it is the spices. Never had mustard seed or turmeric in a beer before.  It kind of sounds like a malty smoked brown rye ale.

Maybe add a little caraway seed to get the rye bread flavor. Rye malt doesn't really taste like rye bread with caraway seeds.

130
It would be a pretty easy experiment to set up. Split a batch into two fermenters, pitch the same amount of yeast, aerate one but not the other. Keep notes on fermentation and finished product. Report back to the group.  :)

131
Equipment and Software / Re: Mash Tun false bottom
« on: May 13, 2014, 05:37:12 PM »
I used the following and it works well.

https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=13521&step=4

132
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Calculating Steps in a starter
« on: May 08, 2014, 06:46:45 AM »
Here is another calculator to try out...

http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_pitchrate.cfm

133
Going Pro / Re: Hop contracts and obtaining hops
« on: May 08, 2014, 06:44:22 AM »
You can get 11lb boxes of pellet hops for between $5.00 and $10.00 a pound depending on variety. Hard to find hops just aren't available from big hop dealers unless you have contracted years in advance. Hard to find hops on the resale market are around $20 a pound for 11lb boxes.

134
Equipment and Software / Re: upgrading to the next level
« on: May 03, 2014, 10:39:22 AM »
I would say that say that all you need is a hot liquor tank and another burner (or electric element) for it. If your mash tun is working fine, I wouldn't mess with it. Hot liquor tank is the easiest and cheapest and mash tun is the most complicated thing to add to the brewhouse. Just a big kettle with a spigot and thermometer. Get it up off the ground so you can use gravity to the mash tun.

How big a batch are you making?

135
Ingredients / Re: Watering down beer
« on: April 24, 2014, 07:10:13 AM »
I think boiling it will get out the oxygen. I would boil, cool and add to the fermenter.
I dunno from things i've been seeing I don't think it removes it all... and I have to imagine there would be more o2 left in the water after boiling and sitting out to cool than you might pick up during racking to secondary (which a lot of people don't want to do the extra rack due to oxidation concerns).  To me it's just asking for trouble if you do it after fermentation... Seems like maybe you would be ok if you added some sugars to it and kicked fermentation back up...

http://www.newton.dep.anl.gov/askasci/chem07/chem07025.htm

It will take a while for the oxygen to be reabsorbed into the water after boiling. If you run the hot water through a counterflow wort chiller then it will cool down quickly and can be considered very low in oxygen. If you add this to your femeneter, then you can expect the yeast to take up any oxygen that does make it in there during fermentation. Ideally this is all done before fermentation, but it can work post-fermentation as well.

This is a common practice in mega-breweries, and some not so mega-breweries. You brew to a higher than intended gravity and then water it down in the fermenter. It allows you to get more beer out of a smaller brewhouse. I guess the difference here is that the water down part wasn't planned for in the first place, and doing so may ended giving you a "watered down" version of  the beer you have.

Another option is to boil and cool the water, then carbonate it and add it to the finished beer.

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