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Messages - troybinso

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166
Beer Recipes / Re: ESB thoughts
« on: April 22, 2015, 10:15:18 AM »
The lower attenuation and diacetyl production for 1968 just wasn't as pleasant, and the fruity/earthy profile from 1469 is just what I am going for in a bitter.

I have no problems getting 1968 to attenuate.  I've used it in everything from small beers to big beers and it does just fine.

Big pitch, 02, and time (at least for the big beers).

1968 will regularly take my old ale from 1.09ish to 1.15 or thereabouts.

However, I've not used the west yorkshire and maybe a split batch is in order.

+1

I routinely get 75 - 80% out of 1968.  Never diacetyl.  It just needs to finish a bit warmer.

Maybe it just likes Chicago water...

When I did the split batch I pitched at 66 let it rise up to 72 after a couple of days. I mashed really high because it was a O.G. of only 1.041 and I wanted to leave some body. I liked the 1968 but my personal preference was for the 1469.

167
Beer Recipes / Re: ESB thoughts
« on: April 22, 2015, 07:16:56 AM »
I have done a couple of split batches over the years on a special bitter with 1968 and West Yorkshire 1469. I much prefer the 1469. The lower attenuation and diacetyl production for 1968 just wasn't as pleasant, and the fruity/earthy profile from 1469 is just what I am going for in a bitter. I realize that you are talking about and ESB, so not exactly the same beast, but that's my two cents. The one downside from 1469 is it takes a little longer to finish because of the everlasting krausen. You really need to be able to crash it once fermentation is complete.

168
All Grain Brewing / Re: 100% pils malt. Too light?
« on: April 21, 2015, 04:16:22 PM »
I made a 100% Best pilsner also. It is really light, and before it cleared up it had an almost green tint to it. I will see if I can take a picture of a pint and post.

169
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: First sour - fermentation plan
« on: April 20, 2015, 08:44:58 PM »
That is a pretty high pH, as you noticed. I think your temperature is really low for lacto. I shoot for at least 100F, but it can be difficult to keep it at that temp. I usually try to pitch at like 110 or so, and put a bunch of heating pads and sleeping bags around the carboy to hold the temp as warm as possible. I don't worry about letting it go for a week or more, but I also start off with a much higher original gravity.

If you can warm it up, I think it should help. Also, if you haven't seen any signs of fermentation I wouldn't worry too much, because that means there was no weird yeast or other bacteria going to work.

170
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Jocky box?
« on: April 19, 2015, 02:59:04 PM »
I have a plate chiller one, so maybe not completely analogous, but I have to get the pressure up between 18 and 20 psi to get a good pour. It also helps a ton if the beer you are pouring is already cold, and try to keep it from getting too warm throughout the event. At the very least keep it in the shade, but ideally a small bucket with some ice in it will help on a hot day. I've heard the coiled jockey boxes are more efficient at transferring the heat, so maybe it won't matter for you.

171
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: First sour - fermentation plan
« on: April 19, 2015, 02:37:29 PM »
If you have a pH meter, that is a good way to measure the level of fermentation from the lacto. Tasting also works. I have had good experience with a couple of different yeasts to add after the lacto, including brett, and you really don't need to use both the sachharomyces and the brett.

You could chill the lacto down when you get close to your desired level of sourness, rack it to another carboy with the fruit and yeast and let it go for a few weeks. I have had great success with quick, sour fruit beers doing this.

By the way, you can save the lacto and reuse it just like yeast, but you would want to make sure your bugs weren't contaminated by some of that nasty saccharomyces. ;)


172
Kegging and Bottling / Re: keg conditioning with priming sugar
« on: April 17, 2015, 10:54:20 AM »
Calculate what you would use for bottling, cut it in half and naturally carb in the keg, 10-14 days at 70+ will carb nicely.

You may have to adjust the pressure or degas a bit once in the kegerator to get a good pour but this method has always served me well.

I would suggest purging the keg with co2 and be sure to blast some co2 to seal the lid well

I have heard to cut it in half, but it always seemed like conjecture, thanks for the real world example.

173
Kegging and Bottling / Re: keg conditioning with priming sugar
« on: April 17, 2015, 09:19:38 AM »
The problem with carbonating with sugar rather than force carbonating is that the keg loses its seal when not under pressure.  The slow production of CO2 by yeast will not seal it.  At least that has been my experience.  Even if you pressurize the keg at the beginning, the beer will absorb the CO2faster than the yeast can produce it so it will lose its seal.

Also a good point, but I am using a 1/2 bbl sanke keg for carbing, so I don't have to worry about sealing the lid. After it is carbed I plan on chilling and transferring the beer to three corny kegs.

174
Kegging and Bottling / Re: keg conditioning with priming sugar
« on: April 17, 2015, 09:18:18 AM »
You don't have to force carb in the fridge, if that's what you'd rather do.  I seldom do.

That's a good point, but I was also hoping not to tie up the co2 while it's carbing.

175
Kegging and Bottling / keg conditioning with priming sugar
« on: April 17, 2015, 07:34:39 AM »
I have done quite a bit of research, but I can't find a definitive answer for carbonating with priming sugar in the keg. I don't have much room in the fridge to force carb right now, so I thought I could just do it at room temperature with priming sugar.

The question is how much. There is conflicting information about whether to use the same (proportional) amount as with bottling, or less, because of the head space. Anyone want to pipe in?

176
Events / Re: Time to kill after the NHC
« on: April 16, 2015, 07:44:27 AM »
Just go to the beach. Mission beach is close to the hotel loop. Pacific beach is just north of that.

Balboa park is cool too. Lots of museums, including the zoo, although the zoo is huge, and kind of overwhelming. 

177
Yeast and Fermentation / WLP 644 genetic results
« on: April 10, 2015, 08:00:42 AM »
White Labs released their studies on wlp 644 "Brett Trois" and it is officially determined that it is a "wild Saccharomyces."

http://www.whitelabs.com/blog/wlp644-research-results

http://www.whitelabs.com/files/644_Explanation.pdf

178
Beer Recipes / Re: Summer Ale?
« on: April 08, 2015, 06:46:02 AM »
What yeast will you be using? With a low gravity and a small hop charge, if you use a neutral yeast, it is going to be easy drinking, for sure, but maybe a little boring. I'd be tempted to use a lager yeast if you are going to keep the recipe as is, or maybe an English ale yeast and up the hops a bit. You could even use an expressive Belgian yeast to coax some complexity out of a simple recipe.

179
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Racking to Keg Through Liquid Out Post
« on: April 03, 2015, 07:35:54 AM »
Maybe just take the lid off the keg and see if you can get flow that way.

180
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Racking to Keg Through Liquid Out Post
« on: April 03, 2015, 07:18:50 AM »
If you are purging the keg with co2 prior to transferring then you should be good with putting the house straight in the keg. If you want to use co2 to transfer out of a carboy you can do it but you have to be extremely careful since the carboy is not built to hold pressure. You should be able to find it by searching online, but essentially you use a regular racking cane stuck  through one hole of an orange carboy cap and push co2 in the other hole of the cap.  Very low pressure - like 2 psi. Attach the end of the racking tube like you have to a disconnect in the beer out from the keg,and open the relief valve out the gas in side.

All this being said. If you are not getting flow into the keg, and you are pressurizing the carboy, you better hope the carboy cap pops off  before the glass explodes into shards. You probably will  have bigger problems to worry about than oxidized beer at that point.

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