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Messages - troybinso

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181
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Raising fermentation temp
« on: March 24, 2014, 03:10:34 PM »
I like to do it for most beers because even if you are fermenting at 65, the temperature can start to drop on its on because the yeast activity has slowed down near the end of fermentation. Lower temperatures equal slower yeast activity as well so they can kind of work together to stop the yeast activity a little earlier than you might like, which would affect your attenuation.

182
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Twice, but never again
« on: March 21, 2014, 09:55:38 AM »
I always put some hops in at the 15 minute mark and then I won't forget to put the irish moss in.

183
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Looking for some Double Batch advice
« on: March 21, 2014, 09:25:30 AM »
If you are doing a double batch you want to pitch enough yeast for both batches in the first batch and only aerate the first batch.

It is no problem to wait until the next day, but it is actually a lot quicker if you can just get the second mash going as soon as you are done draining the mash tun into the kettle for the first time. Everything is already preheated and it saves a little cleaning up time.

184
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Lager fermentation
« on: March 19, 2014, 08:14:20 PM »
Well, this is a quote from Wyeast's website technical section, yeast fundamentals page

" Ale and lager yeasts are currently both classified as Saccharomyces cerevisiae"

Sent from my SCH-I915 using Tapatalk

Saccharomyces cerevisiae in Latin translates roughly to sugar fungus (Saccharomyces) of beer (cerevisiae).  It's no coincidence that the Spanish word for beer is cerveza.

At one point, all brewing strains were classified as Saccharomyces cerevisiae (the species also includes wine and baker's yeast).  However, the field of yeast genetics has determined that lager strains are hybrids of two different species within the Saccharomyces genus; namely, Saccharomyces cerevisiae and Saccharomyces eubayanus.  The Latin name for this hybrid is Sacchormyces pastorianus.   Furthermore, the field of yeast genetics has determined that their are two genetically different yeast families within the S. pastorianus species; namely, Frohberg and Saaz.  Here's a link to a recent paper that sheds new light on the Frohberg and Saaz families: http://www.g3journal.org/content/early/2014/02/26/g3.113.010090.full.pdf+html.  The researchers sequenced Carlsberg Bottom Yeast No. 1 (the first pure culture lager strain, which is also a Saaz strain) and W-34/70 (which is a Frohberg strain) for the study.

I don't know anything about that publication, and I am not an expert in yeast or genomes, but I made it past the abstract and I thought that it sounded interesting and I could probably pick out the important parts that I can understand. Then I got to the first line of the introduction...

"Starting from the early ages of agriculture and the domestication of barley fermented beverages played an important role in the emerging societies."

...and I thought: whatever happened to commas! I had to read that sentence three times before it made sense to me, and there are none of them fancy words in there neither.

I will trudge through the the science and hope that the grammar doesn't slow me down.

185
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Lager fermentation
« on: March 18, 2014, 08:44:56 AM »
From wikipedia:

Quote
As S. pastorianus is a hybrid of Saccharomyces bayanus (or, as recently proposed, Saccharomyces eubayanus [3]) and Saccharomyces cerevisiae, finding a degree of phenotypic and genomic similarity between the two species is not surprising.[4] The hybrid nature of S. pastorianus also explains the genome size, which is up to 60% larger than that of S. cerevisiae, as it includes large parts of the two genomes.[5] There is growing evidence, however, that S. pastorianus has inherited most of its genetic material from S. bayanus.[5] Indeed the mitochondrial DNA[6] and ribosomal DNA[5] of S. pastorianus appear to be derived from S. bayanus rather than S. cerevisiae.

Phew! that clears it up. :o

186
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Specialty Grains % in IPA's
« on: March 17, 2014, 05:27:57 PM »
I read an article today that mentioned you should stick to 4-5%(of the grain bill) specialty grains with IPA's.
Would this also apply to extract brews? The reason I ask is that the last two recipes I made included about 10% specialty grains used as seeping grains (~1.5 lbs DME, 2.5 ounces of specialty grain).
I always assumed it was making an extract recipe better by using them.


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There is a pretty big variety of specialty grains out there, and they will give you different flavors in your beer. Personally I don't like to have very much crystal malt in an IPA (5% or less), and that is with an all-grain recipe. The reason for this is I don't like my IPAs to be too sweet. I have noticed that it can be difficult to get an extract beer to attenuate as fully as you might like, and if that is the case, adding a lot of malt that is also not that fermentable would probably be a mistake for an IPA (again for my taste).

If you are asking for advice about personal taste, I wouldn't put 10% crystal in an extract IPA, but if you were using some more toasty type specialty grains like munich malt or melanoidin malt then you might be ok.

187
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Harvesting yeast from commercial beers
« on: March 17, 2014, 08:00:35 AM »
I like to culture up dregs from exciting sour beers I drink. Although I mostly do this by carefully pouring the beer into my glass leaveing .25 inches behind (or until I see dregs starting to pour. Spray the mouth of the bottle with star san and pitch it into a carboy half filled with beer I keep in the spare bathroom.

I also cultured up a steam beer yeast from a local brewery and had decent luck. I had the impression this beer had different yeast character than what I was getting with the white labs or wyeast cultures but I don't know if that's true or my imagination.

Yep. Works great for sour beers. My most successful attempts have been with Jolly Pumpkin, but I haven't found them around here for a while. I carefully pour some weak wort directly into the bottle with the dregs and cap it with aluminum foil, then step that up after a few days.

188
Yeast and Fermentation / Lager yeast starter smells like diacetyl
« on: March 12, 2014, 04:13:28 PM »
I made two separate starters of wyeast 2278 Bohemian Lager and they both smell strongly of diacetyl. The starters were kept at about 68 degrees. I just brewed the batch and will be ready to pitch the yeast in a few hours. I am not that familiar with lager brewing. Is it ok to use this yeast?

189
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Bo Pils yeast strain recommendations?
« on: March 12, 2014, 03:19:47 PM »
Yeah, I figured if he's using Motueka hops he's not too worried about staying true to "Boh" style.

Motueka is a perfectly acceptable Saaz substitute.  It is to Saaz what Mt. Hood, Liberty, and Ultra are to Hallertauer Mittelfrüh.   Motueka was developed to be a higher producing, less photoperiod sensitive substitute for traditional Saaz.  The peak day length in Zatec is almost sixteen and half hours. The peak day length in Nelson is a little over fifteen hours.   Anheuser Busch (AB) established Elk Mountain Farms in Bonners Ferry, Idaho because its latitude is in the Goldilocks zone for growing noble hops (Bonners Ferry's latitude is over two degrees further north than that of the Yakima Valley).  At 48.6922° N, AB can grow the diploid landrace hop cultivars instead of their triploid clones.  Sixteen hours of sunlight is the magic number for growing noble hops.

While this may be the true heritage of Motueka, it sure doesn't taste a lot like Czech Saaz.

190
Equipment and Software / Re: Stainless Steel Hop Flter
« on: March 10, 2014, 02:33:13 PM »
I like the idea of using one of the filters, but I would be concerned about getting good hop extraction during whirlpool. Anyone put whirlpool hops in one  of these things?

191
I approach it differently.  I decide how much hop flavor I want, along with any other bitterness from later additions, and start from that.  I look at how much bitterness those will give me, then I add enough hops for bittering to get to the IBU goal I have in mind.

I do the same, but after making a few IPA's I have found that I like to get about 30 ibu from the first bittering hops. The problem is that it is hard to figure out how much bitterness you are really getting from those late hop additions. I don't think the brewing software does a good job of accounting for things like flameout or whirlpool hops.

Are we all talking Tinseth or Rager?

I use Tinseth. I also list flameout hops as a "4 minute" addition in BeerSmith.

192
I shoot for about 30 ibu from the 60 minute and first wort hops addition, and then load up on hops at the end.

193
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Russian Imperial IPA
« on: March 09, 2014, 10:16:09 AM »
Mmmm. Finishes with an easy linger.

194
Beer Recipes / Re: Ordinary bitter carbonation
« on: March 08, 2014, 10:11:28 AM »
If you have a shutoff valve for each keg you can just turn the one to the bitter off once you get close to your desired carbonation level. Open it up occasionally to keep enough pressure to pour and it will creep up in carbonation very slowly.

Mashing high will help with the body of the beer - 160 should be good - and it might help to offset a higher carbonation level, but not overcome it.

195
Ingredients / Fresh malt
« on: March 06, 2014, 01:58:02 PM »
After piping in on another thread around here about a smoked barleywine, and listening to a recent podcast about smoked beers I got to thinking about barley and malting.

I live in an area where a lot of barley is grown, and as far as I can tell it is only harvested once a year. So if this is true for everywhere then ALL of the barley is harvested in the fall and then stored for the rest of the year. Meaning a beer brewed in the summer will have 9 month old barley versus one brewed in the winter with freshly harvested barley.

Now the question goes to malting. I imagine a malting facility would be working year-round, but I wonder how often certain varieties of malt are made throughout the year. Do some of the big maltsters make enough crystal 120 or smoked malt in one batch to last for a long time?

Not sure if anyone has spent some time around a malting facility, but I guess I am just curious.

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