You would also need to check the diameter of the hole against the diameter of a typical Belgian corked bottle. It seems like the flip top have a smaller opening.
This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
I live in Maui Hawaii and I am new to home brewing, I have done 4 batches of home brew. My question is this: it's hot here all year round, a steady 75-85 degrees, and I have no access to a fridge or any kind of steady temperature control. What are my options? I really want to eventual brew some stouts because they are my favorite, or really any style. What is your advice or tips for brewing in warm weather?
So you use the spice in the alcohol first and then keep them to use in the water? Or use fresh spice in water?I suppose using cold, heat, water, and alcohol increases flavor extraction.
They're trying to take advantage of the full range of flavors that happen with a substance. You'll extract very different things via boiling than you do via ethanol.
Perfect example of this is cinnamon. Go and soak some cinnamon in alcohol for a few days and boil some in some clean water for 10 minutes. Try the two side by side - the tincture will be all fire and heat. the tea will be earthy and warm. Combine the two together and get them both. (I've always done this separate and never thought to do it as a mix until used in the beer/cocktail)
Since a good number of "classic" bitter recipes are based around herbs and barks, it makes pretty good sense as a tactic.
While this all seems to be true, how can you explain the apparent effectiveness of star-san in the homebrew and craft brew community? If star-san doesn't kill off wild yeast wouldn't you expect to find a pretty high incidence of wild yeast infection?See my post above. I will believe they guy that has been in the industry for years and created the stuff.
He's making a claim that is not supported by science. Star San belongs to a class of sanitizers known as "acid anionic sanitizers." Members of this class of sanitizers have limited anti-microbial properties. They are in no way as effective as oxidizing halogens when it comes to broad spectrum anti-microbial properties.
From "Principles of Food Sanitation" (http://books.google.com/books?id=lCRxcp3gfhUC&pg=PA180&lpg=PA180&dq=acid+anionic+sanitizer+mechanism&source=bl&ots=oOdpNfn5b8&sig=BFDwDZJtIT_H1mVtXMVvCMPED9k&hl=en&ei=uKrgTIX_OcGAlAfd0MWcAw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CBMQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=acid%20anionic%20sanitizer%20mechanism&f=false):
"Acid anionic sanitizers act rapidly and kill a broad spectrum of bacteria and have good bacteriophage activity. They have good stability, minimal odor, are nonstaining, effective in a wide temperature range, and are not affected by water hardness. An acidified rinse can be combined with the sanitizing step and removes and controls mineral films. These sanitizers can be corrosive to unprotected metals and a skin irritant, inactivated by cationic surfactants, may foam too much for CIP equipment, are less effective at higher pH, have limited and varied antimicrobial activity (including poor yeast and mold activity), and are more expensive than the halogen sanitizers. The antimicrobial effects of acid anionics appears to be through reaction of the surfactant, with positively charged bacteria by ionic attraction to penetrate cell walls and disrupt cellular activity."
The above citation supports my thesis that Star San is more of an anti-bacterial than a true anti-microbial. Yeast and mold cells are negatively charged. Oxidizing halogens such as hypochlorus acid and iodine carry no charge, which allows them to penetrate the cell walls of yeast and mold.
Ya I've heard that. Its a concern. It was dropping fairly steady with brett but held 1.006 for over a week. But to be safe I am priming for 2 volumes and will cold store after a couple months. That way even if it goes to zero I would be at 4 volumes, which is pretty spritzy but should grenade. Great point though, thanks.
As I ferment mostly 3.5 gallons batches, my standard starter volume is 600 milliliters. I start with at most a 4mm nichrome loop of yeast taken from a slant on Tuesday night, and I have ready to pitch culture on Saturday morning. We are talking about a huge amount of cell growth compared to pitching a White Labs vial into 1L of wort.
The Brett doesn't need the dextrin, but if the lacto is going to produce any acidity, it will need some food.