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Messages - troybinso

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Kegging and Bottling / Re: Corking
« on: December 16, 2014, 06:12:48 PM »
You would also need to check the diameter of the hole against the diameter of a typical Belgian corked bottle. It seems like the flip top have a smaller opening.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Brett Brux, secondary fermentation duration
« on: December 05, 2014, 12:36:01 AM »
After a few months on Brett you are safe for bottling. As far as taste, it will change some in the carboy, and it will change some in the bottle. Hard to predict what will really happen.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Washing Brett
« on: December 04, 2014, 01:53:57 AM »
If you use a mason jar then you stick the lid on then screw the top down only part - way.  This way the jar won't get pressurized.

Ingredients / Re: how much hops for late hop additions
« on: December 04, 2014, 01:46:57 AM »
A good starting point would be to find an accurate recipe for a commercial IPA that you can buy and see what kind of hops that gives you.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Sour Cherry Ale
« on: November 30, 2014, 04:35:22 PM »
That cherry concentrate looks pretty good. Too bad they don't have other fruit concentrates like raspberry. It seem like it would be a lot easier to use than whole fruit.

Anyone use the dried fruit? I have heard that Russian River uses dried fruit in their fruit beers.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Warm weather brewing
« on: November 18, 2014, 02:25:28 AM »
I live in Maui Hawaii and I am new to home brewing, I have done 4 batches of home brew. My question is this: it's hot here all year round, a steady 75-85 degrees, and I have no access to a fridge or any kind of steady temperature control. What are my options? I really want to eventual brew some stouts because they are my favorite, or really any style. What is your advice or tips for brewing in warm weather?

Funny time to bring this up with the cold snap and all, everything is frozen in my brew area. Kinda sounds like you are rubbing it in...Maui.

Anyway, good advice from the previous posters.

High fermentation temps will get you a hangover. But you live in paradise so what's a hangover to you. ;)

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Mexican chocolate tincture
« on: November 13, 2014, 02:05:52 AM »
I suppose using cold, heat, water, and alcohol increases flavor extraction.

They're trying to take advantage of the full range of flavors that happen with a substance. You'll extract very different things via boiling than you do via ethanol.

Perfect example of this is cinnamon. Go and soak some cinnamon in alcohol for a few days and boil some in some clean water for 10 minutes. Try the two side by side - the tincture will be all fire and heat. the tea will be earthy and warm. Combine the two together and get them both. (I've always done this separate and never thought to do it as a mix until used in the beer/cocktail)

Since a good number of "classic" bitter recipes are based around herbs and barks, it makes pretty good sense as a tactic.
So you use the spice in the alcohol first and then keep them to use in the water? Or use fresh spice in water?

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: shocking my system
« on: November 13, 2014, 01:49:01 AM »
See my post above. I will believe they guy that has been in the industry for years and created the stuff.

He's making a claim that is not supported by science.  Star San belongs to a class of sanitizers known as "acid anionic sanitizers."  Members of this class of sanitizers have limited anti-microbial properties.  They are in no way as effective as oxidizing halogens when it comes to broad spectrum anti-microbial properties.

From "Principles of Food Sanitation" (

"Acid anionic sanitizers act rapidly and kill a broad spectrum of bacteria and have good bacteriophage activity.  They have good stability, minimal odor, are nonstaining, effective in a wide temperature range, and are not affected by water hardness.  An acidified rinse can be combined with the sanitizing step and removes and controls mineral films.  These sanitizers can be corrosive to unprotected metals and a skin irritant, inactivated by cationic surfactants, may foam too much for CIP equipment, are less effective at higher pH, have limited and varied antimicrobial activity (including poor yeast and mold activity), and are more expensive than the halogen sanitizers.  The antimicrobial effects of acid anionics appears to be through reaction of the surfactant, with positively charged bacteria by ionic attraction to penetrate cell walls and disrupt cellular activity."

The above citation supports my thesis that Star San is more of an anti-bacterial than a true anti-microbial. Yeast and mold cells are negatively charged.  Oxidizing halogens such as hypochlorus acid and iodine carry no charge, which allows them to penetrate the cell walls of yeast and mold.
While this all seems to be true, how can you explain the apparent effectiveness of star-san in the homebrew and craft brew community? If star-san doesn't kill off wild yeast wouldn't you expect to find a pretty high incidence of wild yeast infection?

On a separate note, what is the difference between wild yeast and domesticated yeast? If it is ineffective against wild yeast why would it be be any better against the great variety of yeast strains that we use?

General Homebrew Discussion / Mexican chocolate tincture
« on: November 12, 2014, 05:09:22 PM »
I would like to create a tincture with the following flavors to mimic something like a Mexican hot chocolate.

Dried chiles

I am pretty confident I can pull off the chocolate, cinnamon and vanilla with a vodka (or maybe tequila or mescal) tincture with chocolate nibs, vanilla bean and whole cinnamon sticks, but I am a little leery about the chiles. I would like to use Ancho chiles and maybe a little dried chipotle but I am not sure how the flavor will come out in the tincture. Any advice or experience?

Beer Recipes / Re: PNW American Sour
« on: November 01, 2014, 03:18:23 PM »
Ya I've heard that. Its a concern. It was dropping fairly steady with brett but held 1.006 for over a week. But to be safe I am priming for 2 volumes and will cold store after a couple months. That way even if it goes to zero I would be at 4 volumes, which is pretty spritzy but should grenade.  Great point though, thanks.

Yeah, but if it doesn't drop any further then you will only be at 2 volumes which is really low for a beer of this style. I would shoot for closer to 3 volumes and then if you notice that it is getting more carbonated then stick them in the fridge.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Strange yeast behavior
« on: October 24, 2014, 12:12:47 AM »
Since you are only at 5 days, I suppose you could afford to wait a few more days.

What temperature is it?

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WLP300...eliminating sulphur before kegging?
« on: October 19, 2014, 09:50:42 PM »
Yes. Be patient and the sulphur will dissipate.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast starter time question
« on: October 13, 2014, 02:17:46 PM »

As I ferment mostly 3.5 gallons batches, my standard starter volume is 600 milliliters.  I start with at most a 4mm nichrome loop of yeast taken from a slant on Tuesday night, and I have ready to pitch culture on Saturday morning.  We are talking about a huge amount of cell growth compared to pitching a White Labs vial into 1L of wort.

That sounds like a tiny bit of yeast that you are putting in to your starter. Can you estimate how many cells you are grabbing with your loop, and how many cells you end up with after your starter?

Equipment and Software / Re: Refrigerator selection help
« on: October 06, 2014, 10:00:08 PM »
Have you considered a chest freezer? I know that it is hard to get things in and out of it, but it is easy to find the right sized one for you brewing needs.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Adding Dextrin for Brett
« on: October 03, 2014, 05:38:37 PM »
The Brett doesn't need the dextrin, but if the lacto is going to produce any acidity, it will need some food.

Good point.

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