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Messages - troybinso

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Ingredients / Re: Peaches in Sour Beer
« on: August 16, 2014, 06:16:02 PM »
Generally sounds like a good beer, but don't expect it to be too sour. Brett doesn't really make beer sour, it just contributes some different esters and phenols that you don't get from Sachh.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Reusing yeast cake, pros and cons
« on: August 14, 2014, 09:17:51 PM »
Low SRM to High SRM and low ABV to High ABV are ideal but not necessary. Repitching directly in the carboy you just racked out of isn't ideal either, but I have broken these rules as well with no apparent consequences. And I have felt guilty. Especially the dirty carboy full of too much yeast.

You are better off recovering the yeast from the carboy in a jar, cleaning and sanitizing the fermenter and pitching about half or less of the yeast you collected.

Equipment and Software / Re: Heating element for HLT
« on: August 12, 2014, 05:28:33 PM »
You will more than likely have to install a new circuit anyway because the 120VAC Blichmann BoilCoils require 20 amp circuits.  The standard house circuit is 15 amps.  The only places where one is likely to find 20 amp circuits in a home are the dishwasher, washing machine, and counter top appliance circuits.  Replacing a 15 amp breaker with a 20 amp breaker is a fire hazard.

With that said, the Blichmann 10-gallon BoilCoil was designed for heating 5 to 7 gallons of liquid.  It is a 2200W element.  Raising 11 gallons of liquor to strike temperature will take a very long time. 

1 calorie = amount of energy required to raise a gram one degree Celsius
1 milliliter of water = 1 gram

1 Watt = 0.2388 calories per second
2200 Watts  = 2200 x 0.2388 = ~525 calories per second

1 gallon of water =  3785 milliliters

Time to raise one gallon of water one degree Celsius = 3785 / 525 = 7.2 seconds
Time to raise eleven gallons of water one degree Celsius = 11 x 7.2 = 79 seconds

Tap liquor temp = 20C (68F)
Strike liquor temp = 77C (171F)
Temp delta = 77 - 20 = 57C

Time to raise 11 gallons of liquor 57 degrees C = 57 x 79 / 60 = 75 minutes

Moving to a 240VAC 4400W element reduces heating time to 68.4 / 2 = 37.5 minutes


Thank you for writing this out so clearly.

Beer Recipes / Re: Holiday Prowler
« on: August 12, 2014, 07:44:50 AM »
That is a lot of spices!

Are you really putting an entire nutmeg in there? I see that you are just steeping it in a bag for 10 minutes, so I am not sure how much that will add, but if I were to use nutmeg, I would scrape it across the microplaner a few times and call it good. There is enough nutmeg in one seed to do this more than 100 times. Then, you are adding all the other spices too. I would check out some other spiced christmas beer recipes to verify that you aren't overdoing it.

Beer Recipes / Re: English Summer Ale
« on: August 05, 2014, 08:39:42 AM »
That's pretty low attenuation even for that yeast. I wouldn't count on it stopping at 1.016. Not sure if you even pay attention to fg numbers from brewing programs but I thought I would throw that out there.

I love EKG blended with more aggressive hops.

Beer Recipes / Re: belgian table beer
« on: August 01, 2014, 09:35:04 AM »
That is similar to a recipe I have been working on. I want to use 85% pilsner and 15% munich, but I am shooting for a lower abv - maybe around 4.5% or even lower. I am a little worried about the body of the beer being to thin so I think I will just mash really high - around 158F and hope for the best.

I am also considering a very light touch of honey in the fermenter and possibly a little spice addition at the end of the boil. Coriander or chamomile have come to mind. I am planning on using wy3522 Ardennes yeast on one half of the batch and 3422 Belgian Wheat on the other.

Yours is going to be quite hoppy with 3 oz of aromatic hops, and I am not sure I would like that as much. The idea for me is to let the yeast be in the lead, then the malt, and then the hops take a back seat. I like a hoppy saison, but I don't think t58 is really a saison yeast, is it?

Equipment and Software / Re: Wiring for mill motor
« on: July 19, 2014, 06:26:57 PM »
There are 4 wires because dryers run on both 240 and 120. There are two hot wires that run the heater element to make the 240 part. And then there is a "neutral" wire for the electronic system and switches - which is the 120 part. The fourth is a ground. I am not an electrician - or anywhere close to one - but I was able to wire a water heater element for my hot liquor tank using the dryer outlet and so I did some research and figured it out. Hopefully someone more qualified can use better electrician language to clarify what I just wrote  ;)

I don't know which one is which on your dryer motor, but I am hoping this thread will help us figure it out. I have one of those motors sitting in my basement workshop waiting for a chance to turn it into a mill motor.

Equipment and Software / Re: Software Eff Issue
« on: July 14, 2014, 07:27:26 AM »
What did you enter in "batch size" for Beersmith?

Kegging and Bottling / Re: kegging and oxidaiton
« on: July 08, 2014, 08:42:28 PM »
I have mentioned this fact more than one time. Cold-side aeration does not lead to the development of 2-nonenal (a.k.a. that stale paper-like flavor).  Oxidation that leads to 2-nonenal development occurs during the malting and mashing processes, as 2-nonenal precusors are developed during the malting and mashing processes.    In essence, 2-nonenal is a hot-side, not a cold-side phenomenon.  Formation of this compound in finished beer occurs in the absence of oxygen.

Wow, I had no idea that there were hot-side factors to staling. It has been "accepted knowledge" that oxidation post-fermentation and at packaging is a cause of cardboard off-flavors described as staling. Is this not the case? What can we do to avoid staling on the hot side? And what are the staling effects that we can expect on the cold side?

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast taste difference
« on: July 02, 2014, 12:46:15 PM »
For those two yeasts there will be very little difference. I would argue that there are slight differences that are hard to pick out unless you are doing a side by side tasting.

WL001 vs a Belgian Saison yeast, or a Hefeweizen yeast will taste very different.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Saison per Wyeast
« on: June 30, 2014, 08:14:29 AM »
I recently made a Saison and added a tincture of black pepper, cardamom, and grains of paradise soaked in vodka. I added this to taste art kegging so I could control the amount. It came out great.

Could you post details of your tincture, speaking to someone who's never done it?  How much of each spice, soaked in how much vodka, and for how long?  And about how much of this did you end up adding to your beer?  I get the generalities of the process but don't understand where to start in terms of quantities.

I cracked 1 gram of grains of paradise, 1 gram of cardamom, and 2 grams of black pepper and soaked them in about 4 ounces of vodka. I let them sit in there for a few days, but based on the aroma, I think a few hours would have been sufficient. I then dosed a few measured tasters of the cold, uncarbonated beer with different measured amounts of the tincture. I don't remember the details on that, but it was something like a couple of ml of tincture to a couple of ounces of beer. When I decided which one I liked best it turned out that I would need to add the entire 4 ounces of vodka to the batch (and maybe a little more if I had had it) to reach that level of flavor in the 5 gallon volume of beer, so I just put it all in and called it good. I strained it through some cheescloth covering a straining and it kept the little bits of spices out of the keg.

The flavor is noticeable but not overpowering. I did something similar with fresh orange peel and coriander. It is a nice way to split a batch of saison.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Saison per Wyeast
« on: June 29, 2014, 08:55:43 PM »

One interesting thing (to me, anyway) is that neither of us taste the pepper at all.  We might taste the orange, but overall we pick up more of a bright, lemony taste than orange.  When this first started to ferment, I could smell the black pepper through the airlock.  It faded over time, though, and I get no sign of it now.  The Nelson Sauvignon white wine taste is the most prevalent, though very much in balance.  I would be interested in strategies to bring a bit of the black pepper into the finished beer.

I recently made a Saison and added a tincture of black pepper, cardamom, and grains of paradise soaked in vodka. I added this to taste art kegging so I could control the amount. It came out great.

That is a lot of hops for a beer that small. I think you might be overdoing it a little, but you did say that you wanted a boat load, so I guess that is what you are going for. Definitely mash very high - around 160 if you want to get any body out of a beer this low in gravity with a very high attenuating yeast.

Never used that yeast, but I have made a lot of saisons and 90 degrees is really pushing the upper end. I guess I would suggest to pitch the yeast at the lowest temp possible you can manage - low to mid 60's would be great, and let it rise to the temp that you can manage.

Beer Travel / Seattle
« on: June 23, 2014, 08:58:14 AM »
I am headed to Seattle this weekend mostly for some beer tasting. I am really planning on heading to Ballard to check out the explosion of small breweries there in the past few years in the hopes of getting some ideas for myself to follow suit in a different town. Any suggestions would be great, and if anyone knows or is one of the brewers or owners of a nanobrewery in the area, I would really appreciate a couple of minutes of their time so I could ask a few questions about the business. Thanks in advance.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: IPA: Beer style or marketing term?
« on: June 10, 2014, 02:44:19 PM »
I don't recall seeing or drinking something a brewer called a Red IPA.  That one can fit into the Brewer's Association Imperial Red Ale style.

Yeah, I guess I haven't had a Red IPA, but I have had a few called IRA (India Red Ale).

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