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Messages - troybinso

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31
Leos, how did you end up handling the situation with the guy that complained about the flat four-pack?

On a side note, I am just now imagining a racket where someone sends off emails to every brewery within a few hundred miles complaining about something and seeing what they get out of it.

32
I think that now we can get back to the original topic which was, if I recall correctly, whether or not the Brewing Network should have one the COTY award. :-X

I heard the only reason they won was because someone brewed a Kolsch and won with it in the Helles category - and brewed on a picobrew no less.  ;)

33
Like I'd said, I wondered if the Aussies either had bad palates down there or just lower standards... Sounds like both!


The exbeeriment is just one data point. Hard to extrapolate that an entire country of homebrewers has bad palates or lower standards from that.

And, the preferences reported were split between the no chill and the quick chill.

34
Beer Recipes / Re: Cupboard Cleaner beer
« on: November 08, 2015, 10:03:53 PM »
I think of honey malt as a kind of crystal malt because of the perceived sweetness it adds.

I've never made a beer with 20% crystal type malts, but I imagine it would be awful.

35
Ingredients / Re: 2014 Amarillo
« on: November 08, 2015, 09:36:36 PM »
I think it is a stretch to say the entire year's crop of a hop is bad based on a pound that you've gotten.

36
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Sanitizer Comparison
« on: November 08, 2015, 02:59:05 PM »
Eric streaked the plate before before he applied the sanitizer.
The ratio of dead cells to live cells is the only valid test for a sanitizer.

While this may be true when you are only considering the definition of "sanitary", I don't think it really matters practically. If the star-san did the best job of getting rid of yeast and bacteria, I don't care if it killed the cells or just washed them away, as long as the undesirable microbes are gone.

37
Beer Recipes / Re: Hopped up Pale Ale with moderate abv.
« on: November 04, 2015, 07:41:45 AM »
Not sure what your original gravity is going to be, but I agree that 60 IBU is way too much. With a bunch of late hops in my setup I still get quite a bit of bitterness and I have taken to using the 15 minute hop addition as my "bittering addition" for my I.S.A.

Again, depending on the strength of the beer, you can probably do away with the FWH and move those hops to later in the boil. The O.G. on my "hopped up pale ale with moderate abv" is 1.040.

38
Ingredients / Cracked wheat
« on: October 27, 2015, 06:28:34 PM »
I usually get flaked wheat from the local bulk foods section in the grocery store, but they didn't have any so I grabbed some "cracked wheat". It looks a lot like bulgur, but I guess it is different in that bulgur has been parboiled and dried.

Anyway, just wondering if anyone has used it in a homebrew recipe. Planning on brewing with it tomorrow, and I think I will boil it for a while then add it to the mash to convert it.

39
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wyeast 1187 for an APA
« on: October 22, 2015, 07:20:29 AM »
I have always heard that Deschutes uses WY1968/WLP002 for their core beers, but I don't know where I have heard this information or if it has any truth to it. :-\

40
Its these places that don't get physically scrubbed that might be harboring critters and protecting them from a quick coating of star san.

It does not matter how well one cleans when the microbe is yeast or mold.  Star San cannot kill these microorganisms due to its mode of action.  Dodecylbenzenesulfonic acid (the active ingredient in Star San) kills via attraction to positively charged cells (hence, the anionic part of acid-anionic).  Once inside of a bacteria cell, the surfactant goes about wreaking havoc on cellular function.  Yeast and mold cells are negatively charged; therefore, Star San is not effective against these organisms.
Doesn't the physical action of cleaning do a pretty good job of cleaning off yeast and mold? I would think that the cleaning is at least as important as the sanitizing. Also, even though starsan doesn't kill yeast and mold, doesn't the physical action of rinsing with the liquid knock the yeast and mold off? I have no idea if this is true but it sure seems like it would help.

41
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Increasing Apparent Attenuation
« on: October 13, 2015, 07:35:34 PM »
Just use WY3711 French Saison yeast.

You can give it just about any wort you can make and ferment somewhere between 64F and 84F and you will get 90%+ attenuation. I recently brewed a beer with this yeast that had a 1.042 starting gravity and 5.5% abv.

42
Hey Brulosopher,

please do an exbeeriment with mash temps. I would bet that one beer mashed at 148 and another at 158 would be indistinguishable to most tasters. Malt bill and yeast choice are far more important factors in attenuation than mash temperature.

43
The Pub / Re: Lone Star Bock
« on: September 27, 2015, 07:15:50 PM »
Never had the beer. Love the write up

44
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Mold in Secondary
« on: September 24, 2015, 08:37:12 PM »
It looks like a pellicle to me - and not mold. Not that it is better news for you if aren't expecting a pellicle from some sort of microbe that wants to help ferment your beer. What are the details on your beer recipe?

I would suggest giving it a taste to figure out how far the flavor has deviated from what you would expect. If it tastes really gross then you are probably looking at dumping it. If it tastes good, I would just chill it and keg it. Keeping it cold will minimize any flavor change from the foreign microbe.

You probably need to take a close look at your sanitation for future batches.

45
Beer Recipes / Re: Green wild hop APA
« on: August 31, 2015, 08:24:57 AM »
I would save all of the green hops for the end of the boil and use something with a reliable alpha acid to get whatever bittering you want.

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