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Messages - troybinso

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Oxidation - Mitch Steele
« on: January 27, 2016, 02:29:03 PM »
Hoppy beers definitely oxidize quickly. I picked up a random assortment of IPA bombers from various local-ish breweries (within 250 miles) and every single one of them had significant oxidation/aging problems.

Ingredients / Re: Leftover/Spare Hops. What to do?
« on: January 18, 2016, 07:38:06 PM »
I would probably just use them for bittering. You're better off not trying to squeeze some aroma hops into a recipe that don't fit just because you want to use them up. Now if you have hops that are what you want for aroma/flavor, then you might as well create a recipe that uses them since you have them on hand.

Pimp My System / Re: Cellar Brewery
« on: January 12, 2016, 06:01:49 PM »
I'm getting a bunch of woodworking equipment which will mean that I have to re-think my cellar. My girlfriend offered to give up her old art studio which is a finished room about 10X16. She has a better one with natural light now and was using it mainly to store supplies. So that will be the brewery and a section of my cellar currently storing brewing supplies and ingredients will be the shop.
My biggest challenge is running water. I have a big two bay stainless steel sink from a commercial kitchen I would love to install. Has anyone done this in a cellar themselves? I'm wondering if this would cost hundreds or into the thousands to have a plumber do. Does anyone know if this is a doable DIY? I don't know plumbing but I'm pretty handy and I understand pex makes it easier. I know it will require a pump to drain the sink. I would love to get a zymatic but maybe just a cobbled together electric system which would require an exhaust system which I don't know the cost of.
With that woodworking equipment you should be able to build a table or stand for that SS sink.  DIY plumbing with plastic (cpvc) is easy and cheap.  Plumbers = $$$.
Yep, that's what I'm thinking. The main challenge I need to really learn about is the draining wastewater without gravity. I probably need to pump it up to a drain pipe that goes to the septic system.

You'll need a sump hole and a sump pump under the sink to connect to the sewer/septic. I would feel pretty confident getting the hole and the pump plumbed, but I wouldn't connect to the septic myself. I'd feel better spending the 100-200 bucks for that part to get a licensed plumber in there. You really don't want to deal with a septic issue.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Keg PSI
« on: December 31, 2015, 08:26:21 AM »

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Long Draw System CO2 Question
« on: December 29, 2015, 10:15:17 PM »
Pretty sure he meant larger (diameter ) lines.

How long do you have between the beer and the tap? 20 ft? 50 ft? You don't necessarily need beer gas, but it depends on a few basic things.

Beer temperature, co2 pressure, line length and line resistance.

If you can supply us with all of this info I am sure we can help you pour a perfect pint.

I pitched a package of Omega Lactobacillus blend  in a quart of 1.032 starter wort. After 3 days at room temperature the pH is down to 3.48 (don't know the unfermented pH of the starter). The gravity is at 1.028 so about 12% attenuation. I can't make the full batch for a week or two. Should I put this in the fridge? It smells really wort-y and I am afraid of it spoiling.
It's a starter right? Keep it undisturbed and room temp till pitch day then let er rip.

Can I decant and step up the starter?

Beer Recipes / Re: Low ABV Brew
« on: December 29, 2015, 02:08:37 PM »
I've been working on session beers too. I have an English bitter, an I.S.A. and a Saison that are all pretty darn tasty and right around 4%.

I pitched a package of Omega Lactobacillus blend  in a quart of 1.032 starter wort. After 3 days at room temperature the pH is down to 3.48 (don't know the unfermented pH of the starter). The gravity is at 1.028 so about 12% attenuation. I can't make the full batch for a week or two. Should I put this in the fridge? It smells really wort-y and I am afraid of it spoiling.

How long do you boil for? Any DMS worries?

I have done no-boil beers with zero DMS issues even with 60% pilsner malt.

From what I understand, the DMS starts to form as you raise the temperature of the wort, and then is boiled off during a rigorous boil. So I guess I am worried about a short, 15 minute boil, or just raising the temperature to pasteurization temps and creating some DMS, but not boiling it off.

How long do you boil for? Any DMS worries?

Wort does not need to be boiled to kill vegetative cells.  Vegetative bacteria cells start to die off at 140F.  Ethanol does not boil below 173F at normal atmospheric pressure.  One strategy would be to boil the wort, and allow it to cool to between around 100F and 110F before inoculating it with Lactobacillus.  The temperature of the wort should be held at approximately 95F (35C) until it is sufficiently sour before raising the temperature to 160F.   The Lactobacillus cells will be dead by the time the wort hits 160F.

Great thanks. I hadn't considered only getting it up to 160F.

Huh. Interesting chart. I kind of assumed that alcohol was more or less immediately boiled off.

I did a little more reading about lactobacilus on milk the funk at it seems like even heterofermentative bacteria should only produce a very small amount of alcohol, indicating my sample has been contaminated with some sort of yeast. Hopefully the new pitch I got is ok.

I have been fooling around with souring with lactobacillus as the primary fermenter in the carboy, then adding fruit and yeast to finish the fermentation. This time I want to try sour worting in the kettle then boiling, chilling and adding fruit and yeast.

My question is regarding the lacto that I have. It seems to be heterofermentative (it creates lactic acid as well as alcohol and co2) since it has about 60% attentuation rate. If I use this in the kettle and boil for 15 minutes, will I be driving off all of the alcohol that was produced by the lactobacillus in the first place?

Equipment and Software / Re: Opinions on SS Mesh Hop "Spiders"
« on: December 21, 2015, 09:35:03 AM »

Now I have a pump that I've put to use.  I can't whirlpool with the pump as I'm guessing it would clog up the chiller in short order, using un-contained hops that is.

Just run the pump without the chiller connected for about 5 minutes. That is more than enough active whirlpooling. Turn off the pump, close valves and connected the chiller. Let it sit for about 10 minutes and you will have a decent pile in the center of your kettle. Draw your wort from the side of the kettle and you will leave most of the hop pile behind, and you won't clog the chiller.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast Slanting and Plating
« on: December 18, 2015, 09:37:37 AM »
It am not crazy about the way that Bill suggests preparing plates.  Glass petri dishes should be dry sterilized in an oven at 177C/350F for 90 minutes with the media being autoclaved (pressure cooked), not boiled in a separate dish.  It makes no sense to autoclave the dishes and boil the media.   The media cannot be assumed to be vegetative cell or spore free going into the process.
Mark, what is a decent one stop shop for a dozen glass plates and slants, probably a loop and alc flame too?

I've been tempted to pick up something from these guys. They give some good information about harvesting wild yeast in your locale. They offer some lab equipment for plating yeast.

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