Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - denny

Pages: 1 ... 537 538 [539] 540 541 ... 1053
8071
Equipment and Software / Re: Broke a glass carboy this morning
« on: August 18, 2012, 10:30:55 AM »
Why not get a bucket?  Easier to store and clean than a carboy shaped fermenter.

8072
All Grain Brewing / Re: Considerations for 3-gallon all grain batches
« on: August 18, 2012, 09:57:00 AM »
Well, my favorite batch sparging link is www.dennybrew.com, but you probably already knew that!

You say you want to sparge in a cooler.  Does that also mean you want to mash in a cooler?  Have you considered doing a concentrated boil and then adding top off water so you can get 5 gal. in the fermenter?  I did that for a couple years when I started AG and it works really well.

8073
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Old Extract?
« on: August 18, 2012, 09:35:37 AM »
It sounds like it to me.  That's why I use DME when I use extract.

8074
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Pitch Lagers Warm and Chill?
« on: August 17, 2012, 12:17:13 PM »
Just my 2 cents, but wouldn't pitching at a slightly higher temperature get the yeast going quicker, thereby reducing the lag time and chance of infection? I don't know enough about yeast behavior to substantiate this but if given a choice between off-flavors vs. infection I would rule in favor of the latter.

yes, it does that, but at the expense of flavor IMO.

8075
All Grain Brewing / Re: Palmer's Spreadsheet - Kettle addition
« on: August 17, 2012, 12:14:15 PM »
"Water: A Comprehensive Guide for Brewers" by John Palmer was supposed to come out back in April. Anyone know about this?

It's way behind. Don't know what the current pub date is.

8076
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: That German lager flavor
« on: August 17, 2012, 10:05:44 AM »

Hmmm... more food for thought. I knew I liked this place!  :D

Problem is, I'm living in small town southern Illinois right now, and have to mail order just about everything. Should I assume you get Best Malz Pils locally? I'm not finding a good source online.  :-\

Yeah, our club does a group buy through a local brewery.

8077
Beer Recipes / Re: % of Rye Malt in a Plae Ale?
« on: August 17, 2012, 10:01:11 AM »
Batch sparging, round cooler with a false bottom. I haven't had any sticking issues with it so far

Then you should be fine.  Round coolers can be a bit more prone to sticking sue to the grain bed depth, but this mash shouldn't be any more difficult that any other you've done.

8078
I have heard chlorophenols described as a "harsh bitterness".  Does your water have chlorine or chloramine in it, and if so, do you do anything to remove it?  Might be worth a try.

8079
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Getting started
« on: August 17, 2012, 09:56:42 AM »
I think you'll find a quite a number of people (maybe most?) no longer do a secondary in favor of leaving the beer in primary for 3-4 weeks, then bottling or kegging.  It's almost never necessary and increases the (slight) risks of oxidation and infection.  Plus, I'm lazy so why do more work than I have to?  ;)

8080
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Airborne Infection
« on: August 17, 2012, 08:53:22 AM »
I discovered today that one of my clean beers got infected with my house bug. I tried hitting it with some sulfite, so I'll report back if it works.

I'll be interested to hear if it works.

8081
Beer Recipes / Re: % of Rye Malt in a Plae Ale?
« on: August 17, 2012, 08:45:17 AM »
15% rye is good for a present but subdued rye flavor.  Adjust to your tastes.  Whether or not you need hulls will depend on your equipment.  FWIW, at 15% I really doubt you'll need them.  I've gone as high as 40% and I've never had a problem.

8082
All Grain Brewing / Re: 2 gallons in my dead space
« on: August 16, 2012, 08:54:47 AM »
No feets here. I let my braid lay right on the bottom of the mash tun. I drain all but maybe 0.25 gallons out of the tun.

Yep, same here.  And if I tilt my cooler at the end of the runoff, I can get that last qt., too.

8083
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: That German lager flavor
« on: August 15, 2012, 08:52:26 AM »
Sure.  I have tried with Briess, Munton Weyerman and one from my homebrew shop labeled Belgian Pils (don't know the brand).  Munton calls their pils lager malt, but it is the traditional luv range of pils malt.  The Weyerman had the richest malt character with some sweetness.  The Belgian was fairly clean with a distinctive pils sweetness.  The Muntons had the intense pils sweetness that was grape-like.  Briess was somewhat sweet, but almost just neutral malt in character.

Good information! I was leaning towards trying Weyermann's Floor Malted Bohemian Pilsner malt for an upcoming Helles or German Pils, so I may do just that.

I would also recommend you look into Durst and Best malts.  I've tried maybe 6-7 different pils malts, including most of the ones listed above.  Durst was my go to for years, then I discovered Best.  I've used it exclusively for pils malt and continental Munich ever since.

8084
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: That German lager flavor
« on: August 15, 2012, 08:49:42 AM »
Back to FWH.

I have to say that earlier hops additions gives me harsher and lingering bitterness.
Not sure why FWH would not do the same.

This is my experience.
Kind of learned it hard way with 350 gallons of beer.

In George Fix's book, principles of brewing science, he sites the blind taste tests where FWH was show to have a cleaner, less harsh bitter taste, despite having higher measured IBU's.  I think Gordon goes into this in his book too, and he is a big believer in FWH.  I only tried it once with an APA.  I took a medal at a fairly large competition (300+ entries), and my scoresheets described the beer as malty and dry with a bright hop flavor and no harsh bitterness.  I am fairly convinced that FWH does produce different flavors than 60 minute additions.  I know Jamil is not sold on it tho. 

I know that regardless of traditional or FWH,when I use a low alpha hop to get a lot of IBU's, then I get a lot of vegetal material (polyphenols) dissolved in the beer and it comes out grassy and astringent.  To me, that makes the bitterness harsh.

You might be interested in the results of a FWH experiment I did years back.  I split a batch of wort and one half got an oz. of Cascade as FWH and the other got an oz. of Cascade as a 60 min. addition.  The beers were analyzed for IBU and there was a blind triangle tasting by experienced homebrewers, BJCP judges, and commercial brewers.  The results are at http://www.ahaconference.org/wp-content/uploads/presentations/2008/DennyConn.pdf starting on pg. 29.

8085
How's your water? Make sure you have enough sulfate. At least 5 grams of gypsum if you're using RO water.

I just moved into a new place and haven't checked the water but I'm not using R/O water. What do you think about the Rye? Will there be enough flavor from it? Is it overkill with the Malt and Flaked Rye?

I guess my questions "why both?".  Not that you shouldn't, but you should be able to justify why every ingredient is there. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Well I'm trying to get a lot of rye flavor. I've never used flaked rye before and thought it might be a much more pronounced rye flavor with it. Do or do not, there is a lot of rye.

I've found that rye malt has a lot more flavor than flaked rye.  IMO, the flavor kinda maxes out at about 40% rye.  For me, it's just too intense and not well integrated wilth more than that.  Others may differ.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Pages: 1 ... 537 538 [539] 540 541 ... 1053