Why not get a bucket? Easier to store and clean than a carboy shaped fermenter.
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Just my 2 cents, but wouldn't pitching at a slightly higher temperature get the yeast going quicker, thereby reducing the lag time and chance of infection? I don't know enough about yeast behavior to substantiate this but if given a choice between off-flavors vs. infection I would rule in favor of the latter.
"Water: A Comprehensive Guide for Brewers" by John Palmer was supposed to come out back in April. Anyone know about this?
Hmmm... more food for thought. I knew I liked this place!
Problem is, I'm living in small town southern Illinois right now, and have to mail order just about everything. Should I assume you get Best Malz Pils locally? I'm not finding a good source online.
Batch sparging, round cooler with a false bottom. I haven't had any sticking issues with it so far
I discovered today that one of my clean beers got infected with my house bug. I tried hitting it with some sulfite, so I'll report back if it works.
No feets here. I let my braid lay right on the bottom of the mash tun. I drain all but maybe 0.25 gallons out of the tun.
Sure. I have tried with Briess, Munton Weyerman and one from my homebrew shop labeled Belgian Pils (don't know the brand). Munton calls their pils lager malt, but it is the traditional luv range of pils malt. The Weyerman had the richest malt character with some sweetness. The Belgian was fairly clean with a distinctive pils sweetness. The Muntons had the intense pils sweetness that was grape-like. Briess was somewhat sweet, but almost just neutral malt in character.
Good information! I was leaning towards trying Weyermann's Floor Malted Bohemian Pilsner malt for an upcoming Helles or German Pils, so I may do just that.
Back to FWH.
I have to say that earlier hops additions gives me harsher and lingering bitterness.
Not sure why FWH would not do the same.
This is my experience.
Kind of learned it hard way with 350 gallons of beer.
In George Fix's book, principles of brewing science, he sites the blind taste tests where FWH was show to have a cleaner, less harsh bitter taste, despite having higher measured IBU's. I think Gordon goes into this in his book too, and he is a big believer in FWH. I only tried it once with an APA. I took a medal at a fairly large competition (300+ entries), and my scoresheets described the beer as malty and dry with a bright hop flavor and no harsh bitterness. I am fairly convinced that FWH does produce different flavors than 60 minute additions. I know Jamil is not sold on it tho.
I know that regardless of traditional or FWH,when I use a low alpha hop to get a lot of IBU's, then I get a lot of vegetal material (polyphenols) dissolved in the beer and it comes out grassy and astringent. To me, that makes the bitterness harsh.
How's your water? Make sure you have enough sulfate. At least 5 grams of gypsum if you're using RO water.
I just moved into a new place and haven't checked the water but I'm not using R/O water. What do you think about the Rye? Will there be enough flavor from it? Is it overkill with the Malt and Flaked Rye?
I guess my questions "why both?". Not that you shouldn't, but you should be able to justify why every ingredient is there.
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Well I'm trying to get a lot of rye flavor. I've never used flaked rye before and thought it might be a much more pronounced rye flavor with it. Do or do not, there is a lot of rye.