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Messages - denny

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8236
General Homebrew Discussion / Yeast nutrient
« on: March 21, 2013, 05:48:05 PM »
So I was at my local Brew and Wine Hobby store today to pick up some supplies and since I am planning on my first all-grain, I asked about yeast nutrient/energizer and both owners looked at me and kind of smiled and said, we have never used it and it.  They both said it was not necessary as the yeast would get all it needs from the grains being mashed.  So I didn't buy any.  But I keep asking myself, what harm would be it be to add a little nutrient/energizer to the pot.  Almost like baseball players using performance enhancing drugs...  after all, I want that yeast to over perform in that fermentor.  What do you all think?  Use it or not?

I started using it in the kettle a few years ago for the reason you mention...cheap insurance.  I think maybe it helps, but I can't say for sure.  I know it doesn't hurt and it's inexpensive to use.  In addition, since I've already got it, I add it to starters.  I rhink that may have more value even than adding it to the kettle.

8237
You didn't mention what you use to sanitize your equipment with.  By any chance did you use bleach?  If you did use bleach, and with the fermentation temps at the higher end, you might be tasting chlorophenols (sp?), or some other phenols.  Does it smell/taste like band-aids?

I used Star San to sanitize everything.  I guess you could describe the taste as sort of like a band-aid.  In Tucson, AZ, it's hard to get ambient house temperatures much lower than the low 70s without completely cranking up the AC (and then having to suffer the consequences, as my wife will be too cold).  I guess this is saying I should invest in at least a small fridge with a temp controller.

Band aid is a red flag fro chlorophenols, which come from using chlorinated water.  You started with bottled water, but was your top off water from the tap?

8238
All Grain Brewing / Re: Brun Water question
« on: March 21, 2013, 01:55:08 PM »
I don't want to turn this into a "which is better" discussion, but I will say that in my case not having to use internet to access a program is a big plus.  Anything that's online only is a deal breaker for me.

8239
Of course, it's hard to tell with just a written description, but your fermentation temps are a bit too high and will cause harsh alcohol flavors.  The hop choice may be contributing to it, too.  I find Willamette to have a metallic taste and Fuggles to be "funky."

+ 1.060 Jeff.

8240
makes sense - I've read people doing it both ways. most comments I've read adding during fermentation, is related to attenuation or caramelizing. they add it during fermentation so the yeast attenuates well with the wort before additional workload of the sugars is added. since I'm not pushing a very big OG and my attenuation target is within range, I'd presume adding it up front wouldn't impact negatively.

It's not my experience that adding all the sugars in the kettle will have a negative impact on attenuation.  With a good pitch of yeast and good oxygenation I've had no trouble fermenting even my biggest tripels to the expected FG.

I know some people go for the additions in the fermenter, but for my money it's just more work.

+1.060 to all your points.

8241
Equipment and Software / Hoses....
« on: March 21, 2013, 11:14:00 AM »
I just blow through them to get the water out.  May be unsanitary, but I'm gonna sanitize them before use anyway.

8242
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Whirlfloc and Fluffy Trub
« on: March 21, 2013, 09:14:19 AM »
So are you guys really worried about the clarity of your beer or what's the deal? I don't have clarity issues and I don't use whirlfloc or irish moss. I don't need every beer to be clear like a lager either. Enough cold time (a couple weeks) gives me a nice clear beer.
Or is there an actual flavor difference that using whirlfloc aids in improving? This all just seems like paranoia and OCD stuff to me.

I'm not gonna swear that using either IM or Whirlfloc makes a world of difference.  I have noticed that when I forget it the beer seems to take longer to clear.  But it still clears eventually.

I have CDO.....it's like OCD, but the letters are in the right order.

8243
All Grain Brewing / Mash-in
« on: March 20, 2013, 07:30:02 PM »
I add grain to water. I'm generally dumping 3-4 gallons of strike water into a 5 gallon round (and orange  :P ) cooler from my kettle, so this is really the only option for me. Otherwise I'd be afraid to kick up a bunch of dust when I dump in my water. I also think this gives me good control over doughballs since I can add my grain slowly while stirring.

Orange round coolers unite!!  ;D

It doesn't matter what order you use with a blue cooler....No dough balls!

AND 137% efficiency even with NO water at all!

8244
General Homebrew Discussion / Bottles Dimentions for NHC
« on: March 20, 2013, 07:29:21 PM »
Sometimes bottle size is really important for storage.

Good point. I'm used to other comps, I guess.

I know this started a few years back when entries started skyrocketing.  Everything needs to be a standard size in order to store all the entries.  But I don't know how much, if any, leeway there is.

8245
General Homebrew Discussion / Bottles Dimentions for NHC
« on: March 20, 2013, 06:55:50 PM »
If Janis doesn't see this, you should contact her directly.  Sometimes bottle size is really important for storage.

8246
All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash-in
« on: March 20, 2013, 08:43:06 AM »
In terms of beer quality, it really doesn't matter.  It comes down to which way works better for you.  For me, grain to water works better. 

8247
General Homebrew Discussion / Brewing over Two days
« on: March 19, 2013, 06:57:54 PM »
The other option would be to mash in overnight?


OK. I hadn't thought of that. I mash in a 10 gal igloo. If my start temp is 154* and I let it sit for 20-24 hours the temp will fall to an unknown. Probably room temp of 65*. What is that going to do for conversion? Kind of a reverse step mash? Does that work to go from high to low for converting?

I bet it won't fall below the mid 140s.  Wrap your cooler in some blankets or sleeping bags.

8248
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Whirlfloc and Fluffy Trub
« on: March 19, 2013, 02:24:45 PM »
Whirlflock is really just powdered Irish Moss and a binder isn't it. you could pulverize some IM and have essentially the same thing.

Yep.

Sure is convenient.

Yeah, that must be why I keep buying it!

8249
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: suggestions for belgian yeast
« on: March 19, 2013, 01:05:13 PM »
Not familiar with White numbering, but WY3787 works great for that style.  Might be the same thing.

8250
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Irish Moss vs. Whirlfloc
« on: March 19, 2013, 10:19:57 AM »
I haven't found Whirlfloc to work better than IM, but I keep using it anyway.  The manufacturer says 1 tab is good for 12 gal. and should be added 5 min. before the end of boil.

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