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Messages - denny

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Ingredients / Re: Are 30 minute hops worth it?
« on: July 31, 2012, 01:15:41 PM »
I have been doin my Cream Ale with no hops in the boil. All go in at flameout with a long whirlpool. Of course I am doing it wrong and there should be no bitterness acording to some.

Works for Pelican, huh?

Inspired by Kiwanda Cream Ale for sure!

I'm not much of a cream ale fan, but I love that one.

Equipment and Software / Re: Immersion chiller question
« on: July 31, 2012, 09:05:58 AM »

Running slow will minimize the water used.
Running fast will minimize the time. Read my post.

Since water is cheap, I choose to minimize my time.

BTW - the water pump in you car pumps more fluid at higher RPM's, which along with the increased ram air flow through the radiator, keeps your engine from having a thermal incident. Which is a good thing.

+1 to Jeff!

All Grain Brewing / Re: Question about decoction mashing
« on: July 31, 2012, 09:02:28 AM »
I'm using 8.5 lbs Munich, .125 lb Carafa III, and Wyeast 2206.  I really want to experience a decoction mash and maybe I should ease into it with a single decoction.  I need to try things for myself to see if they are worth while.

FWIW, the experiment I did found that a single decoction had little to no affect on beer flavor.

Ingredients / Re: Are 30 minute hops worth it?
« on: July 31, 2012, 08:59:43 AM »
I have been doin my Cream Ale with no hops in the boil. All go in at flameout with a long whirlpool. Of course I am doing it wrong and there should be no bitterness acording to some.

Works for Pelican, huh?

Ingredients / Re: Are 30 minute hops worth it?
« on: July 31, 2012, 08:57:51 AM »
Any of you guys ever read the "Roving Brewer" articles by Eric Watson on the Beer Tools website?
He has some pretty different views on hopping as well as yeast. I'd be interested in your comments about what he writes on both issues, but for this thread at least about hopping. He sez never FWH. Whadya think?

Well, he says FWH is detrimental to head retention, but he doesn't explain why that would be.  And I haven't found that to be the case in my beers.

I think you've just saved me time it would take to read the rest of his stuff.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Temperature fluctuations - Bad or OK?
« on: July 31, 2012, 08:56:09 AM »
I'd say 68* is too high for 3711. If you love fusels though, go nuts.
Really? I did a French saison a couple months ago with 3711 and let it rise to about 78. I am really happy with the result.

Letting it rise to finish is fine, but you want to start in the low-mid 60s IMO.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Long week
« on: July 30, 2012, 02:49:30 PM »
What kind of discomfort was it?  I'm paranoid because heart disease runs in the family and I just turned 50.

For me it was an irregular heartbeat, racing heart, cold sweat, weakness, fighting to keep from losing consciousness.  I never experienced the crushing pain I hear about.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Long week
« on: July 30, 2012, 08:55:41 AM »
Wow, man. glad you decided to stop and get it checked out!  I've had a couple cardiac incidents over the years and now I'm waiting to hear about some other issues.  Don't screw around with your health!

All Grain Brewing / Re: Do lagers take longer to start?
« on: July 30, 2012, 08:53:35 AM »
Lagers take longer to start if you do it right...meaning pitching at low temps.  Some people want a fast start and pitch at higher temps, but I've found that sacrifices flavor for fast start.  IMO, really short lag times are overrated!

I squeeze the crap out of my bag and not once have I had a problem. My friends rave about my beer but I'm just lucky so far.

In BIABing, I think the worse you can do to bring tannins out is to go over 170 in your mash out.  I try to stick to 168 just in case and it's worked very well for me. I get efficiencies in the upper 70's and lower 80's but really don't worry about that much at all.  I try to mash for 70 minutes plus the mash out and do a good squeeze after the bag drains and then boil away.

Temps don't matter that much but pH dies.  Because many BIABers use the full volume if water for the mash, it's possible for the pH to be off.

Most porters I have seem too thin for my personal liking, which is why I rarely order them.

But you haven't tried this one!  How do you know it needs anything?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

I prefer stouts over porters but want to take a stab at the recipe in the May/June Zymurgy issue.  Has anyone added flaked oats to the recipe to give it more body?  I was thinking I would go on the light side and add 5% to the total grain bill.  Will I be banned from the message board for trying this?

Why do you assume it needs more body?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Beer Recipes / Recipe help please
« on: July 29, 2012, 08:46:30 AM »
I agree on the Citra....I just haven't been able to develop a taste for them.

I brewed an all late hop Summit IPA yesterday just to see what happens.  I'll dry hop it with another oz. of Summit.  I'll report in a few weeks.

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All Grain Brewing / Re: clarity/sediment/biab/batch sparging
« on: July 28, 2012, 02:03:32 PM »
so i just brewed my 4th all grain batch.  i am doing biab 3 gallon batches.  my efficiency today was 71% and this is up from the last three of about 68%.

anyway, i find that i'm having of trouble with lots of sediment in my final bottled beers.  I've tried several different ways of transferring to carboys but find i am still getting loads of sediment(while using whirfloc).  is this just inherent in biab?  i'm very close to just jumping to batch sparing because i realized the cooler i want is much smaller for apartment storage than i originally thought.  anyway, does sparging through the grain bed help cut down on lots of sediment?

longer post than i thought but i wanted to provide ample amounts of info.


also, i love the 3 gallon batch because, so far, i have brewed 4 different beers.  i am loving variety.  second question: does batch sparging still work with smaller batches in a large cooler that i could still use to do 5 gallon batches?

sorry for the multiple question thread.  i just sort of realized i did this.  but all these things have been in my head at the same time.

thanks for any and all help!


Using the grain bed as a filter will cut down on sediment in the kettle.  If that's the cause of too much sediment in the bottle, it will help that, too.  Batch sparging is just as effective in small batches as it is in larger ones.

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