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Messages - denny

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8401
Yeast and Fermentation / Double Boiling, Double Fermentation
« on: November 30, 2012, 09:56:32 AM »
I find that collecting first runnings followed by putting in more water into the mash, mixing well, letting sit for another 30 or so minutes and collecting second runnings (mixing first and second, obviously) extracts way more out of the grain than fly sparging.

Let me understand.  You mash in and mash out.  Collect all of your first wort runnings and then you add water back to your mashed grains, let sit for another 30 minutes and then collect enough 2nd runnings to combine with first runnings for you boil.  I assume the water you add is +/- 170 to 175ish and you would collect around 6.25 to 6.50 gallons for a 5 gallons batch.

Is this batch sparging?

Nope.  Batch sparging would be adding the second water addition and running off immediately.  I don't really see the point of letting the second water addition sit for 30 min.

The point is to let more sugars dissolve out of the grain into the water. May not seem like it would help, but it really does.

But that's contrary to the theory of batch sparging.  And why wouldn't it be generally applicable to everyone?  Why don't I or others see efficiency oncreases from it?  I think you have another issue.

8402
Equipment and Software / Sparge for Picnic Cooler Tun
« on: November 29, 2012, 01:49:56 PM »
Many times I just poured it back directly with no deflector and it never mattered.

That's the way I've always done it.

8403
Ingredients / Cranberries in American Brown Porter
« on: November 29, 2012, 01:48:02 PM »
If you boil them you could set the pectin and end up with porter jello!

8404
All Grain Brewing / Iostar to measure starch?
« on: November 29, 2012, 01:39:06 PM »
I think iodine tests are useful and brewers should know how to do them correctly to troubleshoot mash conversion issues: http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Iodine_Test

Kai

Obviously if you're going to do them you should know how to do them correctly.  Unfortunately I've seen far too may people who don't know how.  And troubleshooting a problem is about the only use I can see for it.  As a regular procedure it just seems pointless.

8405
All Grain Brewing / Kettle Mashing Question
« on: November 29, 2012, 12:46:01 PM »
What size of tubing are you using for recirculating?  3/8" , 1/2" ?   

When I was using a cooler for my mashtun, I was using 3/8" tubing... When I switched to using Blichmann's I had to go to 1/2" tubing to get a better flow rate coming out of the kettle, which meant the pump wasn't having problems...

Me?  3/8.

8406
All Grain Brewing / 5-gallon vs. 10-gallon cooler?
« on: November 29, 2012, 12:44:41 PM »
One day, perhaps before they shoot the video,  I'd like you to please move the clamps so they all face the same direction.

But having the clamps all different is part of the design and how I hit 137% efficiency!
I get that my adding flubber to the mash. Changes the mouthfeel a bit though.

Last time I tried using flubber I couldn't catch my mash tun!

8407
Yeast and Fermentation / Double Boiling, Double Fermentation
« on: November 29, 2012, 11:31:23 AM »
I find that collecting first runnings followed by putting in more water into the mash, mixing well, letting sit for another 30 or so minutes and collecting second runnings (mixing first and second, obviously) extracts way more out of the grain than fly sparging.

Let me understand.  You mash in and mash out.  Collect all of your first wort runnings and then you add water back to your mashed grains, let sit for another 30 minutes and then collect enough 2nd runnings to combine with first runnings for you boil.  I assume the water you add is +/- 170 to 175ish and you would collect around 6.25 to 6.50 gallons for a 5 gallons batch.

Is this batch sparging?

Nope.  Batch sparging would be adding the second water addition and running off immediately.  I don't really see the point of letting the second water addition sit for 30 min.

8408
All Grain Brewing / Re: Iostar to measure starch?
« on: November 29, 2012, 10:21:13 AM »
Old guy on the Moonshiners show last night stuck his finger in the mash and held it up in the wind. He said if it's not sticky when it dries, it's ready.

I'd think it should be sticky from the sugars.  Seems like if it's not sticky it hasn't converted.

8409
All Grain Brewing / Re: stuck sparge
« on: November 29, 2012, 10:18:10 AM »
Yes, but Denny, you are a beer god. ;)

Maybe a beer goof....

8410
All Grain Brewing / Re: 5-gallon vs. 10-gallon cooler?
« on: November 29, 2012, 10:15:59 AM »
Didn't know where the blue cooler comments were coming from until I did a search. I guess I'll have to pay extra for the blue, or my whole future of brewing is doomed to horrible failure ;)

One additional, related question: can a thermometer be installed into a rectangular cooler (the way I've seen in the round ones)? I would think that would be a problem, just given the size of the cooler. If so, how? If not, is the only alternative to periodically check the temp?

Thanks again for all the help. It's nice to know that there are so many helpful people around here.

Yes, you can install a thermometer but I prefer not to.  If you install a thermometer you only know the temp in that one spot.  I like to be able to move the thermometer around the mash tun to ensure I have even temp distribution.

8411
All Grain Brewing / Re: 5-gallon vs. 10-gallon cooler?
« on: November 29, 2012, 10:14:28 AM »
One day, perhaps before they shoot the video,  I'd like you to please move the clamps so they all face the same direction.

But having the clamps all different is part of the design and how I hit 137% efficiency!

8412
My question is why would you need a diacetyl rest for a Belgian strain?  In my experience diacetyl is common in lager and English yeasts, but I have never encountered it in Belgian yeasts. Acetaldehyde, yes, if removed from the yeast to soon before it finishes fermentation and cleans up by-products.  Also, pitching at that high of a temp would more likely produce acetaldehyde vs. diacetyl.

FWIW, I rarely do a D-rest.  Even on lagers.  I you pitch an appropriate amount of yeast and ferment on the cold end of the ferment time, the yeast will eventually clean up the diacetyl and other by-products of fermentation.

+1.060 to all of the above.

8413
All Grain Brewing / stuck sparge
« on: November 28, 2012, 02:51:47 PM »
Batch sparging is not necessarily a panacea here. 8 of us used the same mill on Learn to Brew Day, and I think everyone using a Bazooka/kettle screen ended up with a stuck mash and we were all batch sparging.
It's primarily the crush, as even with a very slow run off speed, if you've got a ton of flour in there it's going to clog up that screen. When I use my own mill, which I have adjusted by trial and stuck sparge, I never have a problem...thankfully.

Anybody using a SS hose braid?  I find those work much better than a Bazooka. 
I don't use it much (direct fired false bottom mash tun normally), but when I batch sparge with my cooler it is with a SS braid from a toilet/sink hose.  It's never stuck on me.

Same here.  429 batches and never a stuck runoff.

8414
Yeast and Fermentation / Does longer fermentation = longer diacetyl rest?
« on: November 28, 2012, 02:49:45 PM »
The main fermentation was done at 68*.  I used the Wyeast Ardennes which is good up to 76*, so when the fermentation slowed, I bumped the temperature 2* per day (1 AM, 1 PM), until I reached 74*. Where it has been since Sunday eve.  I have not tasted it, nor taken a gravity - I was waiting until signs of fermentation stopped.

Steve

Ya know, saying it's good up to 76 isn't real accurate.  IMO, the temp ranges given by yeast cos.are way too high.  Experience has shown me that I get better results at the lowest end of their range.

8415
All Grain Brewing / Iostar to measure starch?
« on: November 28, 2012, 02:46:44 PM »
I recommend you just forget the starch test entirely.  It's unnecessary unless you REALLY screw up and it's easy enough to do the test wrong and get a false reading. 

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