Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - denny

Pages: 1 ... 562 563 [564] 565 566 ... 1131
8446
Equipment and Software / Re: Zip ties in the brew kettle
« on: February 18, 2013, 10:47:34 AM »
I used zip ties all the time with no problem but changed to a small spider because fishing out the bags was a pain in the ass. Was adding bittering hops and then fishing out the boiling hot bag to add flavour hops at 30, 15 and 5 min not workable. The spider makes sense to me. I do still use the nylon zip ties when I need to dry hop a beer.

I use a separate bag for each addition.  I hang them from a spoon laid across my kettle so they're freely suspended and I don't have to fish for them afterwards.

8447
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Can I vacuum seal yeast?
« on: February 18, 2013, 09:50:18 AM »
Do you mean a yeast slurry?

Yea, the yeast I pour off from the bottom of the fermentor, to use on the next batch.

I don't know about your equipment, but my vacuum sealer doesn't do well with liquids.

8448
All Grain Brewing / Re: My First Batch Sparge
« on: February 18, 2013, 09:42:07 AM »
From John Palmer's How to Brew Chapter 17:

"Sparging is the rinsing of the grain bed to extract as much of the sugars from the grain as possible without extracting mouth-puckering tannins from the grain husks. Typically, 1.5 times as much water is used for sparging as for mashing (e.g., 8 lbs. malt at 2 qt./lb. = 4 gallon mash, so 6 gallons of sparge water). The temperature of the sparge water is important. The water should be no more than 170°F, as husk tannins become more soluble above this temperature, depending on wort pH. This could lead to astringency in the beer."

For one thing, John is talking about fly sparging, not batch sparging.  For another, I have hundreds of batches that disagree with him.  ;)

8449
All Grain Brewing / Re: My First Batch Sparge
« on: February 18, 2013, 09:40:19 AM »
A mashout really doesn't matter in batch sparging, and unless you hold a temp of 170 for 20 min. or more you aren't really doing one.  I usually use sparge water around 185-190F so that I can be sure I've gotten complete gelatinization and conversion, not for a mashout.

I thought you don't want your water to be higher than 170 to prevent extracting tannins...

Tannin extraction is pretty much dependent on pH, not temp.  Think about a decoction mash...you boil the grain and don't extract undesirable amounts of tannins because the pH is low enough to prevent it.

8450
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Manufacturer Attenuation Figures
« on: February 18, 2013, 08:44:23 AM »
Agreed with the other posters here.  The number is apparent attenuation, but it's more if a relative measurement.  You could likely get close to that if you mash at 150°F, pitch 10 million cells per ml into a 10°P wort and ferment at 20°C, but chances are that's not the beer you are going for. 

Recently I did a matrix of 40 fermentations with wort gravities from 3°P to 15°P and inoculations rates from 30 million per ml to 120 million per ml and was quite surprised by the variation in attenuation.

Data will be on my blog soon.

Looking forward to seeing it.

8451
All Grain Brewing / Re: My First Batch Sparge
« on: February 18, 2013, 08:42:10 AM »
Am I correct in presuming because of the highly modified grains we use that mash out isn't really a necessity? I'm currently in the early stage of my 90-min 148F mash and looking at all the time information from brewsmith 2, it seems to want a 2 tier mash out/rinse schedule. I've fly sparged previously because I was using a round cooler, but moved from the 5 gallon system up to a 52-qt and will be doing batch sparging for the first time today.

Mouse

Nope, it really doesn't have anything to do with modification.  It's becasue in batch sparging you get to a boil much more quickly than in fly sparging.  Keep in mind that Beersmith is a toll to help you brew the way you want to brew, not instructions about how to brew.  You don't have to use the steps it defaults to.  Unless you can't fir all the sparge water in your cooler at once, I'd advise you do do the mash runoff, then all all your sparge water in one step.

8452
Kegging and Bottling / Re: cornelius vs firestone
« on: February 17, 2013, 12:49:40 PM »
What do most homebrewers use... ball or pin lock soda kegs?  What would you recommend I purchase?

I think ball lock are more common.

8453
All Grain Brewing / Re: 10-gal Batch with 2 different OG's
« on: February 17, 2013, 12:06:07 PM »
That's what I'm thinking. Is it possible that the higher gravity portion would sink to the bottom? That's where his came from and mine came from the top.  You wouldn't think so though after a 90-minute boil.

It doesn't seem possible and I've never seen it happen to me.

8454
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Accurate thermometer
« on: February 17, 2013, 11:41:46 AM »
At work we have a NIST-traceable calibration block that is used to cal all the thermometers used at work, so I can check mine in that block.

But that's a pain  :) so I just got one of these:

http://www.thomassci.com/Instruments/Digital-Thermometers/_/Thomas-Traceable-Lollipop-ShockWaterproof-Thermometer/

$30 for a waterproof nist-accurate 10" probe lolipop thermometer. works great.

+1

+2

8455
All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash Tun
« on: February 17, 2013, 11:40:01 AM »
I wait until the runoff stops, then tilt mine.

8456
All Grain Brewing / Re: 10-gal Batch with 2 different OG's
« on: February 17, 2013, 11:39:17 AM »
When did you split into two batches?  Did you split the grain into two mashes or the wort into two kettles?

I assume the first, since the second would have to have the same OG.  The first would have two different OGs because you're two systems have two different efficiencies.  Things like dead volume, sparge volume, mash thickness, mash time and mash temperatures can all affect the efficiency from an otherwise identical bag of crushed grain.  That is assuming you split grain from the same crush, otherwise, crush tends to be the overwhelming variable.

It was all together. Same mash, same crush, same boil. The place it was separated was into 2 carboys for fermentation. It was a 10 gallon batch. Full boil.

Something's gotta be wrong because that's nearly impossible.

8457
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Manufacturer Attenuation Figures
« on: February 17, 2013, 11:38:26 AM »
I should've been more clear.  I was referring to whether these figures were actual or apparent.  So it looks like neither.  Are the manufacturer provided attenuations even useful for comparison with my apparent attenuation?

Not IMO.  OK, maybe a bit....personally, though. I don't even look at or consider the manufacturer figures.  I can get 60% or 90% attenuation out of the same yeast depending on the wort.

8458
All Grain Brewing / Re: My First Batch Sparge
« on: February 17, 2013, 10:13:58 AM »
Check with Denny but I don't think there are problems with not hitting a mash out.  I suspect things will be smoother at about 170F but you will stop the enzymes anyway with the boil.  It will take longer to boil if you sparge cool

A mashout really doesn't matter in batch sparging, and unless you hold a temp of 170 for 20 min. or more you aren't really doing one.  I usually use sparge water around 185-190F so that I can be sure I've gotten complete gelatinization and conversion, not for a mashout.

8459
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Manufacturer Attenuation Figures
« on: February 17, 2013, 10:10:13 AM »
Do yeast manufacturers post actual attenuation or apparent attenuation figures for yeast strains on their websites?  Neither the Wyeast FAQ's page nor quick searches on Google and the AHA forum gave me the answer.

Well, actually kinda neither.  The figures that manufacturers publish are simply a way of comparing on strain to another using a standardized wort.  They may or may not be an indication of the attenuation you can expect.  That's dependent on things like recipe and techniques.

Pages: 1 ... 562 563 [564] 565 566 ... 1131