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Messages - denny

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8461

8462
IMO, I prefer a cooler to a kettle for mashing because it holds the heat so well.

8463
It sounds like a running gag to me.  I doubt that it was meant to be anything else.

Agreed.  I've gotten that response from him (assuming it's the same guy) many times on the other board.

8464
All Grain Brewing / Re: Tannins
« on: May 23, 2011, 09:19:24 AM »
Yeah, excessive tannin extraction leading to astringency was what I was getting at.

I'm not having an astringency issue, I'm just curious as to whether high sparge pH on its own causes a problem since it seems that high temperature by itself does not.

Based on my own experience, I'd say yes.  Even keeping my temps in line, I found that my dark beers were harsh until I started paying attention to my pH.

8465
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: More malt flavor/mouth feel
« on: May 23, 2011, 09:16:01 AM »
+1000.  Hokerer hit this right on the nose.  And bottom line is taste.  If you like your extract beers made with the dark extract, then by all means, continue on with it.  But if your stouts end up tasting like caramel and molasses instead of coffee, etc., then you might want to switch over to light extract plus a lot of roasted grains.  In other words, get you color and flavor from your own grain, not just whatever some extract manufacturer has thrown in there.

In addition, it gives you an advantage if/when you switch to AG since that's how AG recipes are constructed.

8466
You could just keep a canary nearby, and when it dies you open a window. :)

Assuming you can still make it to the window!

8467
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Missing FG???
« on: May 23, 2011, 09:14:13 AM »
we calibrated the thermometers.

Hopefully with a certified lab thermometer and not the freezing/boiling method.

8468
But if you're moving forward, it sounds like you plan to use propane burners indoors, near your kitchen?  The reason most people brew in the garage or outside is because propane burners can produce a lot of carbon monoxide and you want to have good ventilation.  People who brew inside generally use natural gas or electricity.  So my advice on indoor burners is don't use propane or install a high flow ventilation hood.

I've even heard of people's insurance policies being cancelled when it was discovered they used propane indoors.

8469
All Grain Brewing / Re: Understanding the Mash (for noobs like me)
« on: May 23, 2011, 09:09:39 AM »
Actually wait, that is 16 gallons total water volume and that doesn't include sparge water. Decoction maybe?

What about this (for 10 lbs of grain):

Dough-in at 104 for 20 minutes with 2 qt/lb
Decoct 8.5 quarts, boil, to bring it all to 143 for 60 mins
Decoct  4 quarts, boil, to bring it to 155 for 30 mins


That's ridiculously complicated IMO.  There is no need to mash in at such a low temp.  Why are you doing the decoctions?  Why not a single infusion?

8470
Thanks Denny for the info on the pump.

Also going to get the glass sights while im at it, a few more $s and a nice feature.

Just a thought.

Where do you tend to cool your wort? In the boil kettle? Id assume the HLT is empty seeing its the 1st step in the process, does anyone go from the boil kettle back to the HLT using their wort chiller. Would it not cool faster this way?

Any advice on the use of indoor burners, Im going to have a section of the house near the kitched for brewing. I see that most brew outside or in the garage, but there are some with indoor setups.

Thanks guys for the quick info, im sure I will have more questions as I go along and actually start the build.



Yes, you chill in the kettle.

Ray, I'm gonna spew a little heresy here....you're looking at building a complicated system and yet you're not sure what all the parts do or how to use them.  Just maybe you should step back and slow down a little.  How about going with a less complicated system (like my Cheap'n'Easy) while you learn the basics of AG brewing?  Then you'll get a feel for the process and also learn more about what you really need and how to use and configure it once you're ready to step things up.  You can use a lot of the stuff (kettles, pumps, etc.) from a basic system when you go to a more "complicated" system so you really won't be losing anything.  Just this last weekend, I had a chance to brew on a pretty much automated 20 gal. Morebeer system.  By the time the day was over I was wondering why I'd ever want to change from my cooler system!  I'm not saying that everyone would feel that way, but keep in mind that there's more to brewing than the equipment you use.

8471
Equipment and Software / Re: Suggestions for a new burner.
« on: May 23, 2011, 08:50:03 AM »
I've been using the banjo cooker. Works great, not too noisy.

Same here.  I like it so well I just bought another one.

8472
thanks Misager

You answer put it into better simple perspective.

You use a seperate pumps to get the hot liquid to the mash tun, and the wort to the boil. Is this so that you can contoll the speed?

What is the optimal GPH for the pumps? Im in the aquarium hobby and have used lots of pump through the years some ranging from 20gph to 2000gph.



You don't even need to worry about that.  Just get the March 809 HS pumps,which are the standard pumps for homebrewers.

8473
There's a guy on the brewsbros forum who works for SN.  Every time batch sparging is mentioned he posts that batch sparging is for suckers.  I don't think he's ever tried it, though.  I'm guessing this comment was written by the same person.

8474
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Selling.....maybe?
« on: May 22, 2011, 12:38:18 PM »
Is he going to pay for all of the new equipment and kegs you'll need?  Will he be the owner and you an employee?  Where does the money go and who decides?    Can you legally brew commercially in your backyard brewshed or do you need to find a new location?  Do you really want another job and everything that comes with it?

And do you really want to have to brew when and what the market demands?

8475
All Grain Brewing / Re: Understanding the Mash (for noobs like me)
« on: May 22, 2011, 12:36:30 PM »
Agreed.  The 3rd ed. is much more comprehensive, includes different, more up to date info, and is easier to read.

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